[butraymond]

I'm new to road course racing and I would like to do some mods on my new M2C. I'm planning to do 1-2 events/ month , about 15/ season. I want start from basic staffs and do each component once at a time so that I can feel the difference. Probably at very beginning will focus on safety, then handling, and later on to have more power. Here is my list and please feel free to comment!

PHASE 1 (year 1):
1. Brake Upgrade: Ferodo DS1.11 pads. Spiegler Stainless Steel brake lines.(necessary?), Castrol SRF
2. Install Fixed-Back Seats: Recaro Pole Position seats to run Schroth 4pt quickfit pro(had it in my old 435i). At this stage, I still want the rear seat and might install a roll cage in the future.
3. Run oem pss then cup2.

PHASE 2: (year 2-3)
1. Wheel & Tires (apex ec-7+slick tires)
2. GC Camber plate(Does this necessary from day 1? I do daily my car(not now WFH) and worry about city street crown and ruts, DC road sucks), Ohlins R&T.
3. Wheel alignment, corner balance.
4. AP brake kit. 

PHASE 3: (year 4, more HP)
1. Intake, cooling, 
2. Engine tune
3. Bolt in half cage. (Does welded cage considered as structural damage?)

Overall, I will definitely focus on having more seat time. Student driver always.

[bentom2]

I’ve more or less done your phases 1 and 2 on my OG M2. Your plans look rational and well thought out overall.

Given the number of days you’re planning to do annually, I’d suggest pulling the camber plates in on your plans so tires survive a bit longer. 15 days on stock camber will chew through front tires at a costly rate. I’d expect you’ll recoup the cost of the camber plates within the first season on tires savings. The camber plates didn’t make a huge difference in noise or feel on rough roads. We have some bad roads in the Seattle area, including pavement over cobbles, like you might find in Georgetown.

Ground control was able to sell me the parts needed to convert from OE suspension to Ohlins, so you won’t be out too much extra when you get to phase 2.

Brakes lines do make a noticeable difference in pedal firmness, but I wouldn’t consider them a must have. Up to you. I did them when I pulled my calipers for a rebuild. Since you have a BBK in your plans, might be something to skip since the AP kit comes with stainless lines too.

The seats and harnesses will be nice, but I’d check on rules with the clubs you plan to run with to ensure this setup works. For example, PCA (not sure if this is local to me or national) will only allow QFP harnesses if they are specific to your model of car, and used with OEM seats (not an option for the Comp OE seats). Otherwise, they want to see 5 or 6 point and a HANS device, and then you really should be looking at a roll bar. I’m holding off on the roll bar for now and using the 3 point belt for PCA days, so that’s an option if just one club will be an issue. I like the ability to carry track wheels and tires for out of state track events in the back seat area.

Pads, fluid and camber plates will get you going and is a good starting point. I ran that way for a bit more than a year and have done the rest of your phase 1 and 2 gradually. Just installed the AP brakes, so can’t comment on the, but as a package, I’m pretty happy at this point.

I’m in no rush to add power, but good to see you have that at the end of your list. In fact, the tank is so small in these cars, I’m not sure I want to decrease my track minutes per tank beyond where they are stock. I can only get about 50 minutes per tank, which is usually just enough for two sessions.

[butraymond]

Originally Posted by bentom2

I've more or less done your phases 1 and 2 on my OG M2. Your plans look rational and well thought out overall.

Given the number of days you're planning to do annually, I'd suggest pulling the camber plates in on your plans so tires survive a bit longer. 15 days on stock camber will chew through front tires at a costly rate. I'd expect you'll recoup the cost of the camber plates within the first season on tires savings. The camber plates didn't make a huge difference in noise or feel on rough roads. We have some bad roads in the Seattle area, including pavement over cobbles, like you might find in Georgetown.

Ground control was able to sell me the parts needed to convert from OE suspension to Ohlins, so you won't be out too much extra when you get to phase 2.

Brakes lines do make a noticeable difference in pedal firmness, but I wouldn't consider them a must have. Up to you. I did them when I pulled my calipers for a rebuild. Since you have a BBK in your plans, might be something to skip since the AP kit comes with stainless lines too.

The seats and harnesses will be nice, but I'd check on rules with the clubs you plan to run with to ensure this setup works. For example, PCA (not sure if this is local to me or national) will only allow QFP harnesses if they are specific to your model of car, and used with OEM seats (not an option for the Comp OE seats). Otherwise, they want to see 5 or 6 point and a HANS device, and then you really should be looking at a roll bar. I'm holding off on the roll bar for now and using the 3 point belt for PCA days, so that's an option if just one club will be an issue. I like the ability to carry track wheels and tires for out of state track events in the back seat area.

Pads, fluid and camber plates will get you going and is a good starting point. I ran that way for a bit more than a year and have done the rest of your phase 1 and 2 gradually. Just installed the AP brakes, so can't comment on the, but as a package, I'm pretty happy at this point.

I'm in no rush to add power, but good to see you have that at the end of your list. In fact, the tank is so small in these cars, I'm not sure I want to decrease my track minutes per tank beyond where they are stock. I can only get about 50 minutes per tank, which is usually just enough for two sessions.

Thanks for all helpful notes!
First time heard about Ground Control can swap parts to fit Ohlins. What was camber setup on your oem suspension?
I do have HANS device. Seems like QFP might not be a solution but a cage/roll bar just not there yet. I might run oem seat for now.

[bentom2]

Originally Posted by butraymond

Thanks for all helpful notes!
First time heard about Ground Control can swap parts to fit Ohlins. What was camber setup on your oem suspension?
I do have HANS device. Seems like QFP might not be a solution but a cage/roll bar just not there yet. I might run oem seat for now.

I was running 2.8* camber on the stock suspension, which with 0 toe was a decent compromise for street wear vs track wear. Many folks opt for 2.5 in a dual purpose car, but most of my mileage it to and from the track these days. I had camber increased to 3.2 after I installed the Ohlins, as I still saw some shoulder wear. Pretty happy with tire wear there, but it does follow ruts pretty aggressively now.

A friend is running Sparco fixed back seats and QFP in his M2 this year, so it’s doable, just do your research to make sure it doesn’t limit who you can run with. Didn’t intend to discourage, but only ensure you took the club safety rules into consideration.

[detroitm2]

Honestly I wouldn't bother with fixed back seats until you have a cage. I realize this limits your ability to run harnesses, but QFP are not meant to run with those kind of seats.

[OG Shark]

butraymond sounds like you have an excellent mindset starting out on road tracks. bentom2 made some excellent points too - definitely some good stuff there to consider.

Tire & brakes - normally would say upgrade the pads & fluids and have at it here. But I do think with the M2C it wouldn't be awful to consider a BBK already if you know you are are going to go to one in the future. Going to a BBK that allows for 18" wheels can open up much better tire choices - and also lower costs overall. Pad costs could also be lower if you go to something like AP's 9668 fronts that run a 25mm pad - they typically aren't much more than thinner pads & you get longer life. Certainly not necessary but just something to think about.

Since you mentioned AP I will add that I love the Essex kits at this level. I run their 9668 kits in the front & whichever the appropriate kit is for the platform on the rear - they have been excellent. I race with them on my E92 M3 & they are extremely consistent and fade resistant (I do not even run ducts to them). Other good options out there but for me the Essex AP kits are my first choice. Run them on my M2 as well & have a set waiting for the next E92 M3 race build we are starting right now.

Tires - to me this is the easiest & best way to "upgrade" the car when you start out and as your skills progress. Start out with a cheaper, well mannered tire that wears well. I really like the Dunlop Direzza here. It is a 200TW tire but not one of the new cheater 200s that are stupid fast. It stays pretty consistent, has good breakaway & recovery characteristics, and wears very well. Throw them on a stock(ish) car and go to town - learn the car, get comfortable being on track, all that good stuff. I really like the idea of working towards going full nannies off with these tires - then you can get into some good car control work. Keep going with a tire like this until you feel comfortable with your car control and then maybe start the progression up. Also can help keep bad habits from forming if you work at not relying on the TC - they can get hard to break at faster speeds. From there work the tire progression you want taking incremental steps. Work in other mods as necessary/desired as you get into the faster stuff.

I'm really not a fan of cup2's unless you have a tire fitment issue. To me that is really the only time to consider them. There are better tires for the money. The cup2 shine for the hard to fit stuff though.

Have fun & be safe!

[mr_lab_rat]

I would bump the camber plates to the first phase. Most manufacturers offer conversion kits from OEM springs to coilovers. I run Vorshlag plates and they are awesome. Since my car is daily I have the plates marked for 1.85 street setup and just bump them up to 2.85 for the track day. Takes 10 minutes.

[butraymond]

Originally Posted by mr_lab_rat

I would bump the camber plates to the first phase. Most manufacturers offer conversion kits from OEM springs to coilovers. I run Vorshlag plates and they are awesome. Since my car is daily I have the plates marked for 1.85 street setup and just bump them up to 2.85 for the track day. Takes 10 minutes.

Thanks, good to know. Is this something you can do by yourself? Jack up car, remove wheel and then adjust camber plate?
Did you adjust camber setting in rear?

[dvas]

My recommendation is that before you start dumping thousands into the car, take the car to the track stock, assuming in good operating condition and fresh tires/brake fluid. Who knows if you will even enjoy driving on track. It's not for everyone. And you will not be fast enough your first time out to wear out any items or need any upgrades.

After a few days on track, you should look at upgrading brake pads and fluid. After that, sticky rubber and camber plates to save your tires. Those mods alone should put the car within the fastest 5% of cars at any given track day. Any delta from that and the required mod is more seat time.

[richard in NC]

Originally Posted by dvas

My recommendation is that before you start dumping thousands into the car, take the car to the track stock, assuming in good operating condition and fresh tires/brake fluid. Who knows if you will even enjoy driving on track. It's not for everyone. And you will not be fast enough your first time out to wear out any items or need any upgrades.

After a few days on track, you should look at upgrading brake pads and fluid. After that, sticky rubber and camber plates to save your tires. Those mods alone should put the car within the fastest 5% of cars at any given track day. Any delta from that and the required mod is more seat time.

I second this.

[butraymond]

Originally Posted by dvas

My recommendation is that before you start dumping thousands into the car, take the car to the track stock, assuming in good operating condition and fresh tires/brake fluid. Who knows if you will even enjoy driving on track. It's not for everyone. And you will not be fast enough your first time out to wear out any items or need any upgrades.

After a few days on track, you should look at upgrading brake pads and fluid. After that, sticky rubber and camber plates to save your tires. Those mods alone should put the car within the fastest 5% of cars at any given track day. Any delta from that and the required mod is more seat time.

Haha, good point. I've driven my 435 for almost a whole season(6events) and I think I would like to go further on this route.
I will definitely work on myself first but the reason for this post is to avoid unnecessary waste mods.
Do you meant slick tires? Any tire recommendation after the oem? I might wait to have another set of wheels when I swap brake kit, then I can go 18". I'll stick to my oem wheels for a while.
Btw, i enjoy watching your track video!

[mr_lab_rat]

Originally Posted by butraymond

Thanks, good to know. Is this something you can do by yourself? Jack up car, remove wheel and then adjust camber plate?
Did you adjust camber setting in rear?

Absolutely. There is a trick to doing it without taking the tire off. I raise the car and put a piece of wood under the outside edge of the tire and lower it back down (while the camber plate bolts are loose). But taking the tire off is probably just as quick.

I had the car aligned for street 1.85 front, 1.60 rear. Toe on the lowest side of the OEM spec. When I change the front camber there should be minimal change to the front toe. The car feels good on the track and tires heat up and wear evenly.

[Maynard]

I think that you can run OG M2 seats and then use the quickfit, if you need to stay stock. In Europe the M2C came with those older seats std and the one piece M2C seats were a cost option (like the brakes).

[TargaM2]

Originally Posted by Maynard

I think that you can run OG M2 seats and then use the quickfit, if you need to stay stock. In Europe the M2C came with those older seats std and the 'cobra' seats were a cost option (like the brakes).

Sorry but the BMW oem seats (M2 or M2C or M2CS) aren't made by Cobra.

[Maynard]

Originally Posted by TargaM2

Sorry but the BMW oem seats (M2 or M2C or M2CS) aren't made by Cobra.

I meant the M2C style seats, sorry for the mixup.

[OG Shark]

Originally Posted by butraymond

Haha, good point. I've driven my 435 for almost a whole season(6events) and I think I would like to go further on this route.
I will definitely work on myself first but the reason for this post is to avoid unnecessary waste mods.
Do you meant slick tires? Any tire recommendation after the oem? I might wait to have another set of wheels when I swap brake kit, then I can go 18". I'll stick to my oem wheels for a while.
Btw, i enjoy watching your track video!

I prefer to start with some high wear (relative to the track) tires that you can get a lot of track time out of. Something 200 or higher - and not one of the cheater 200s. With the oem 19s you're options are fewer than with 18s but you can still find a decent tire that will let you go learn the car and work on your skill level. The benefit to this level of tire is that the limits are lower so the time spent learning how to drive at the edge and bring it back when you go over happens at a lower speed - very helpful for the learning curve. You also get pretty decent life out of the tires at that level.

If you don't have a good foundation in car control already in place then moving to faster tires too early can possibly slow down the learning process. And if you become reliant on traction control to save the car on these faster tires it can definitely develop some bad habits. Doesn't necessarily have to happen & I'm not trying to say traction control is bad - just that this is something to potentially be aware of.

My tire progression was:

Dunlop Direzza ZIII - from first starting until felt very confident with my car control skills and ability to "save" the car with no nannies
Nitto NT01 - love this tire - excellent wear, excellent consistency, friendly manners, just with they were faster
Goodyear F1 Supercar 3R - lots of grip, good tire
Hoosier R7/A7 - competition tire in my SCCA class
Full Slick - brand depends on what org I'm racing in

Not saying these are the best tires - more that it was good progression steps for me. Definitely other good tires at these levels as well. I really feel like the time I spent with the Direzza's getting my foundation built was key for me and allowed me to progress well through the other levels.

There is also nothing wrong with going and getting a tire like a RE71 or A0052 though and just enjoying the speed of them if that is what you want to do. Going to be faster than say a Direzza, might end up more reliant on traction control, but if that is not a concern then definitely go for it.

[Montaver]

I would just do pads, fluid, camber plates before you go sinking a ton of money into the platform. The stock M2C brakes are excellent, once the stock rotors are toast you can switch to Girodiscs.

I had Ohlins on my M2C, they are very poorly judged on this platform. Over sprung and weirdly over damped particularly at the rear. Consider Barry @ 3DM motorsport revalved versions as the dampers when valved correctly are excellent.

The seats are by far the most frustrating thing about the car on track, they don't hold you in particularly well and the leather is very slippy. You could do Cobra Nogaros with a harness bar which is easily reversible.

The stock M2C is a great starting point overall and doesn't need much to be quick.

[TargaM2]

Originally Posted by Montaver

The seats are by far the most frustrating thing about the car on track, they don't hold you in particularly well and the leather is very slippy. You could do Cobra Nogaros with a harness bar which is easily reversible.

Agree about the seats, they really let the car down imo. I invested in a set of custom Nogaros.

[Outlaw 06]

I realize that this post is several weeks old, but what is your goal? You mention road course racing, but you're not building a race car with the list of mods you're planning to do...