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      05-22-2020, 02:18 PM   #1
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Drivetrain malfunction (official! Another spun crank hub)

So I was coming off the hwy almost home when I made a slow right turn and I tried to give it some gas when I felt no response from hitting the throttle I got this drive train malfunction. Drove home since I was just down the street and parked it for the night. Woke up this morning thinking it would gone away as this happened before on my oh M2 but problem persists. Haven't drove it yet just turned it on. Any thoughts?? Also I'm on bm3 stage 2 e30 mix with AA midpipe and catless DP
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Last edited by Bimmer28312; 06-01-2020 at 07:14 PM..
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      05-22-2020, 02:29 PM   #2
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Pull the code.

In some cases flashing back to stock to see if it helps is also a good idea.

But you need to pull the code to find the exact issue otherwise people would just be throwing guesses
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      05-22-2020, 02:43 PM   #3
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Just drive it around the block and aside from the hesitation engine start it appears to drive fine. Code still persists but connecting obd and what these codes are about
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      05-22-2020, 02:56 PM   #4
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Well this is what I got. Cleared the codes started it right up without the hesitation like before but the drivetrain malfunction came back. Here are all the codes

Integrated Chassis Management (ICM)

D01646 Embassy error (accelerator pedal angle, ID:ANG ACPD)- Timeout

Front Electronics (FEM_BODY)

D90D37 Interior light unit (ILE): Incorrect version installed

Camera Module (KAFAS2)

E0BC43 Signal Status Availability Chain Brush received invalid or brake chain not available

Engine (DME)

130E20 Intake camshaft: angular offset to the crankshaft outside tolerance

120406 charge pressure control, shutdown: pressure build-locked

130F20 exhaust angular offset to the crankshaft outside tolerance
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      05-22-2020, 02:57 PM   #5
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Pull the codes before you drive it. Might be spun crank hub.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1379753

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1511744

Edit: Based on your codes, strong possibility.
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      05-22-2020, 03:04 PM   #6
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Really... I literally was just off the hwy driving home through residential streets when the code popped up
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      05-22-2020, 03:22 PM   #7
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That looks like it could be the spun crank hub. Such a shitty engine design by BMW, it makes me never want to get another one, because even though we all take the risk when modding our cars, this is clearly to me a design flaw.
The newer engines now have integrated crank hubs which is almost like them admitting it was the right way to go in the first place.

I'd put as put as much as possible back to stock and take it to the dealer. Then hope they don't void your warranty, otherwise you could be looking at 5-6k out of pocket bill and close to a month in the shop.

How long have you had these mods on?
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      05-22-2020, 03:31 PM   #8
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Well I just cleared the codes, back to stock, and locked dme. I literally just tuned my car 3 weeks ago and aside from that I have a catless downpipe that's. Car barely has 9,000 miles and yes on a manual transmission
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      05-22-2020, 03:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post
Well I just cleared the codes, back to stock, and locked dme. I literally just tuned my car 3 weeks ago and aside from that I have a catless downpipe that's. Car barely has 9,000 miles and yes on a manual transmission
Yes, I now remember your thread and you had the dyno done as well.

I'd try to get the stock downpipe on as well before taking it in because they're probably going to investigate and it's one less thing to worry about.
Some say they can also pull logs off the ECU, in which case nothing can save you from getting the warranty voided.

Then you have to figure out what you're going to say to the inevitable question that they will ask anyway: "Did you have any modifications done to your car?"

If you say "yes", they will instantly void your warranty and if you say "no" it might give you a chance.
Regardless, this sucks.

I'm stage 1 tune on pump gas, but afraid to go stage 2 even though it can happen at stage 1 as well. Some say, it's the massive torque that the mods give you that cause this. I think it's worth looking into a crank bolt capture fix for me ($1600), and implement a boost reduction by gears via the tune (if I go to stage 2) to not allow the torque to exceed roughly 500wtq (which is what some say it's the safe max on stock engine).
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      05-22-2020, 04:05 PM   #10
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Yup back to stock tune and it's official codes are there to stay until I bring it to the dealer. Now my problem is should I or should I not out the stock dp back on. FML
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      05-22-2020, 04:20 PM   #11
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I would put the car back to stock and bring it to the dealer for diagnosis. But don't go in expecting/demanding them to cover the repair if you indeed have a SCH. If they don't mention anything and cover it no questions asked then great but pay to play is definitely applicable for you here.
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      05-22-2020, 04:26 PM   #12
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Yeah I'm putting my stock downpipe back on. What's odd was I was driving on the highway just fine for about 45min. Driving at normal speeds 5min off the hwy near my house it popped up.

Last edited by Bimmer28312; 05-22-2020 at 04:47 PM..
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      05-22-2020, 04:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post
Yeah I'm putting my stock downpipe back on. What's odd was I was driving on the highway just fine for about 45min. Driving at normal speeds 5min off the hwy near my house it popped up.
Well, with a little luck maybe it's not a SCH but code 130E20 and 130F20 is what people have gotten when SCH occurred and in some instances it happened when they were driving normally and even when they fired up the car first thing in the morning, which tells me what it can slip earlier at some point when you drove it hard and you can actually get the malfunction later.
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      05-22-2020, 05:32 PM   #14
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I have no substantial data to back this up, but it sounds like Carbahn was right when they say 600+ at the crank is when you increase the chance of hitting the failure point for these engines re SCH. I say from your other thread that you are pretty north of that to the crank (slightly under to the wheels).

I'm bummed this happened to you, and hope it's an inexpensive fix.
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      05-22-2020, 06:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
I have no substantial data to back this up, but it sounds like Carbahn was right when they say 600+ at the crank is when you increase the chance of hitting the failure point for these engines re SCH. I say from your other thread that you are pretty north of that to the crank (slightly under to the wheels).

I'm bummed this happened to you, and hope it's an inexpensive fix.
I believe you are correct, hence why I also mentioned in my post that they advise torque to the wheels to be kept around 500wtq / low 500's so that crank torque doesn't exceed 600tq.

The problem is that even some stock S55 engines have had the SCH, even though admittedly that is very very rare. Alas, the percentage of failure definitely increases dramatically among tuned cars.
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      05-22-2020, 06:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bioman View Post
Pull the codes before you drive it. Might be spun crank hub.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1379753

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1511744

Edit: Based on your codes, strong possibility.
Thanks for this. Well it appears the codes I got are the same codes he had when he spun his crank hub. Let's just hope I have as much luck as he did as BMW covered even though it was tuned. This really blows!!
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      05-24-2020, 12:38 AM   #17
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Definitely put the stock downpipe in. Report back on what the issue really is. Good luck!
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      05-24-2020, 09:41 AM   #18
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Man OP I feel for you... hope you get sorted out...goodluck
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      05-24-2020, 01:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post

Engine (DME)

130E20 Intake camshaft: angular offset to the crankshaft outside tolerance

120406 charge pressure control, shutdown: pressure build-locked

130F20 exhaust angular offset to the crankshaft outside tolerance
These codes are consistent with other SCH cases. However, since the car still runs, it probably threw off timing so no major damage hopefully. You should avoid driving the car in the meantime.

Even if you put everything back to stock and have BMW re-time it under warranty (which is unlikely), there is a good chance it might happen again. Assuming there is no engine damage, I'd personally take it to a reputable shop and have them install a pinned hub along with a bolt capture plate.
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      05-24-2020, 06:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Pilot View Post
These codes are consistent with other SCH cases. However, since the car still runs, it probably threw off timing so no major damage hopefully. You should avoid driving the car in the meantime.

Even if you put everything back to stock and have BMW re-time it under warranty (which is unlikely), there is a good chance it might happen again. Assuming there is no engine damage, I'd personally take it to a reputable shop and have them install a pinned hub along with a bolt capture plate.
Yeah I'm debating my options at this point. I may take it in performance technic first before I get it to BMW both which both are about a mile from my house so lucky in that regards. Perhaps have the timing fixed there with bolt capture that way I don't need to remove my catless DP. If it is major than yes stock all the way and onto BMW it goes.
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      05-24-2020, 06:59 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Pilot View Post
These codes are consistent with other SCH cases. However, since the car still runs, it probably threw off timing so no major damage hopefully. You should avoid driving the car in the meantime.

Even if you put everything back to stock and have BMW re-time it under warranty (which is unlikely), there is a good chance it might happen again. Assuming there is no engine damage, I'd personally take it to a reputable shop and have them install a pinned hub along with a bolt capture plate.
Yeah I'm debating my options at this point. I may take it in performance technic first before I get it to BMW both which both are about a mile from my house so lucky in that regards. Perhaps have the timing fixed there with bolt capture that way I don't need to remove my catless DP. If it is major than yes stock all the way and onto BMW it goes.
I would do that. Look at it this way, would you rather spend a couple hundred bucks to have the shop verify it's a fixable issue, fix it and install the crank hub for a couple grand? Or would you rather take it to BMW, watch them blow up your warranty, give you a hard time and become a pain in the ass and charge you 5-6x what performance would?
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      05-24-2020, 08:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
I would do that. Look at it this way, would you rather spend a couple hundred bucks to have the shop verify it's a fixable issue, fix it and install the crank hub for a couple grand? Or would you rather take it to BMW, watch them blow up your warranty, give you a hard time and become a pain in the ass and charge you 5-6x what performance would?
Yes this is why I am going to talk to my shop first and go from there. If it just to have it reset than I'll have them fix the issue and install insane performance crank hub fix or vtt version.
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