[pal]

At this time I plan to stay with the stock suspension. The M2 is my daily driver for now and it sees about 2-3 track days a year at most. My current track car is getting long in the tooth so the camber correcting knuckles are a way for me to start phasing in the M2 as a backup track car, until it becomes the primary.

For suspension upgrades, I will likely go with Ohlins Road and Track coilovers or with KW Clubsports once I am ready for that.

[Phantom_9192]

I see that you were able to get from 1.5 to 2 degrees negative with this addition, correct?
For those that track hard (not necessarily a lot, but at 10/10ths of the car's potential on track), what kind of camber should I be shooting for up front optimally? Thanks!

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Phantom_9192

I see that you were able to get from 1.5 to 2 degrees negative with this addition, correct?
For those that track hard (not necessarily a lot, but at 10/10ths of the car's potential on track), what kind of camber should I be shooting for up front optimally? Thanks!

Stock front camber was -1.5deg

MPerf coilovers front camber -1.8deg

As above but with camber correction hubs front camber -2.25deg

Track camber is tyre dependent - if running road biased tyres then -2.5deg is probably max setting. If running stickier track biased road legal tyres then they can cope with more camber ie -3deg to -3.5deg.

IMHO -2 to -2.5deg is probably a good range of wanting single setup for DD/TD's.

[Phantom_9192]

I'd be on the top 200tw tires (which are way grippier than anything that's actually 200 tw ) and my goal would be to time trial the car.
I need front camber (it's the massive limiting factor currently) and I can't add camber plates or bolts as that puts me in a "chase the class limits" spiral and pretty soon the car becomes not usable as my daily.

As such, I'm guessing I'd need more than -3 up front and there's probably no way to do that without camber plates, is there?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Phantom_9192

I'd be on the top 200tw tires (which are way grippier than anything that's actually 200 tw ) and my goal would be to time trial the car.
I need front camber (it's the massive limiting factor currently) and I can't add camber plates or bolts as that puts me in a "chase the class limits" spiral and pretty soon the car becomes not usable as my daily.

As such, I'm guessing I'd need more than -3 up front and there's probably no way to do that without camber plates, is there?

I track my car 6-8 times a year and the all OEM setup I have works very well indeed. If wanting to stay in class using OEM parts then -3deg is not achievable legitimately IMHO.


Stealthier upgrades could be made to work ie SPL make adjustable front lower arms LCA and TS (similar to oem BMW motorsport setups on m235iR and M4GT4) or using adjustable bushes in both lower arms to tune caster (TS) or camber (LCA)

[pal]

Parts showed up today. The hubs look like art pieces. The bearing are not press fit and simply bolt on. In retrospect, I could have reused mine and simply swapped them over. Oh well, no harm in having a spare set.

[2020M2Competition]

Originally Posted by pal

Parts showed up today. The hubs look like art pieces. The bearing are not press fit and simply bolt on. In retrospect, I could have reused mine and simply swapped them over. Oh well, no harm in having a spare set.
[/IMG]

Thanks for the update

If possible, please let us know how much negative camber you end up with after the install

BTW, according to the newTIS service manuals, when reusing wheel bearings the threads must be recut

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kle/1VnXx2PqWu

Not sure if it's really necessary and obviously not an issue for you since you have new bearings, but figured it was worth mentioning for others who might be reusing their bearings

[pal]

Originally Posted by VTBoss302

Thanks for the update

If possible, please let us know how much negative camber you end up with after the install

BTW, according to the newTIS service manuals, when reusing wheel bearings the threads must be recut

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...kle/1VnXx2PqWu

Not sure if it's really necessary and obviously not an issue for you since you have new bearings, but figured it was worth mentioning for others who might be reusing their bearings

Thanks. It's good to know that getting new bearings wasn't a total waste. I can keep my stock hub and bearing together as a backup.

I believe BeePee reused his bearings. I wonder if he cut the threads or simply use new bolts and called it a day. I am sure he'll let us know when he sees this.

I will take pictures when I get around to the install and post up the alignment numbers post install. Since my car is a stock suspension US car, it will be a good baseline for camber.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by pal

Thanks. It's good to know that getting new bearings wasn't a total waste. I can keep my stock hub and bearing together as a backup.

I believe BeePee reused his bearings. I wonder if he cut the threads or simply use new bolts and called it a day. I am sure he'll let us know when he sees this.

I will take pictures when I get around to the install and post up the alignment numbers post install. Since my car is a stock suspension US car, it will be a good baseline for camber.

New bolts only for mine.

A year later - my car had both front bearings replaced under warranty- known QEP issue - totally unrelated to my reuse of original bearings when swapping hub carriers.

[nothingman]

Is there any level of adjustability using the OEM camber correction hubs, or is it all in or all out? If so, how do they adjust?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by nothingman

Is there any level of adjustability using the OEM camber correction hubs, or is it all in or all out? If so, how do they adjust?

No adjustment - it's fixed/solid complete replacement of the existing original hub carrier/upright

[pal]

In the interest of keeping this information in one place, here is how I went about installing the new hubs and new bearings and what I learned.

Getting started on the passenger side.


The hard connections to the hub are 2 control arm ball joints, the tie-rod end and the the bolt that clamps the hub around the strut base. The things I ensure I did before undoing these hard things are looking for and getting the delicate things out of the way - speed sensor, brake lines, and on the driver side the suspension/headlight height sensor.




For the brake caliper, I set it down on a jack stand and only at the end of the job did I realize that the stainless brake lines on my car are long enough to allow me to set them down on the floor. I needed to do this when I was tightening things up.


Rotors and dust shields




Getting the ball joints and tie-rod end off. I had to ask my wife to hold the steering when I broke these loose. After that its a one person job. I learned the steering does not lock on these car like cars of yore




Strut/hub pinch bolt


I found that using a US dime (10 cent coin) along with a spreader tool works really well to open the hub enough to simply slide it off the strut




The hub. Since I was using new bearings, I did not remove them from the hub. Else, I would have removed the bearings while the hub was on the car.




I put the new bearing on the new hub and finger tightened the 4 bolts before installing it on the car.


Another learning was that the four bearing to hub bolts are NOT torx but torx plus - TP60. Had to order that from Amazon and wait.




Install is reverse of removal. The bearing bolts are torque to yield, so once they were tightened, I marked them with a Gold Sharpie for future inspections on whether they moved.


Unrelated cool engine shot, just because

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by pal

In the interest of keeping this information in one place, here is how I went about installing the new hubs and new bearings and what I learned.

Unrelated cool engine shot, just because

You need to do the CF Strut Brace, just to finish it off...

[pal]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

You need to do the CF Strut Brace, just to finish it off...

I am planning to only replace our steel strut brace with the aluminum one from the M3/M4. Not sure I like the look of the bow brace ...

[M Fifty]

The aluminium brace is probably most cost effective bit of the conversion, but unless you're driving with the bonnet removed, you won't have to look at the CF element (and, BMW wouldn't fit it to the M235 Racing if it were purely for aesthetic reasons).

[romeo_f]

Does anybody know if this modification applies also to the M2 Comp?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by romeo_f

Does anybody know if this modification applies also to the M2 Comp?

Yes this mod will fit m2c too

[romeo_f]

Thanks!

[MightyMouseTech]

For anyone that has done this mod, have you checked before and after clearance between the strut and the tire? It seems that this mod would reduce inner tire clearance at the strut.

[pal]

Finally got around to getting it aligned. I didn't quite get the -2° that BeePee did, but I got close with -1.7° on driver side and -1.86° on the passenger side. With me in the driver seat, both sides were about -1.8°. Below is the printout - he took it without me in the car.

I am on stock suspension whereas BeePee is on MPerformance coilovers I think. He is likely at a slightly lower ride height and that is probably giving him that tenth of a degree I am missing.

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HjEwwLxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

[chief1richard]

Originally Posted by pal

Finally got around to getting it aligned. I didn't quite get the -2° that BeePee did, but I got close with -1.7° on driver side and -1.86° on the passenger side. With me in the driver seat, both sides were about -1.8°. Below is the printout - he took it without me in the car.

I am on stock suspension whereas BeePee is on MPerformance coilovers I think. He is likely at a slightly lower ride height and that is probably giving him that tenth of a degree I am missing.

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HjEwwLxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

Thanks for the detailed photos of the install. Love that people take the time and effort to do photos.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by pal

Finally got around to getting it aligned. I didn't quite get the -2° that BeePee did, but I got close with -1.7° on driver side and -1.86° on the passenger side. With me in the driver seat, both sides were about -1.8°. Below is the printout - he took it without me in the car.

I am on stock suspension whereas BeePee is on MPerformance coilovers I think. He is likely at a slightly lower ride height and that is probably giving him that tenth of a degree I am missing.

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HjEwwLxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

Pal,

Wait to read your feedback after you driven the car with correction hubs installed.

FYI - here's a couple of photos of my car (albeit with 18" x 9" 640m c/w 255 Conti 830p winters installed all round)

upfront these oem star rated winter tyres are much wider than 18" 245 MPSS I use for summer and more akin to 18" 245 AD08RS I run on for TD's etc - with lowered stance and added camber - zero rubbing...

BP