[XProject]

I just finished my 10k service last week. I don’t usually pull to redline on 1st and shift to 2nd gear. Last few days when I tried, it won’t go into 2nd gear as if it was blocked. As the RPM coming down, I tried shifting to 2nd again, and it still won't go in. I have to wait for very low RPM then I can shift back to 2nd or skip 2nd and shift to 3rd. It’s not grinding gear either. It was blocked and stay in neutral. I have been driving manual for 15 years, and this is my first time happening to me. Do you guys know what is going on here?

[jason86]

Have you warmed up enough your car before doing the pull? Only thing happened to me was I couldn't down shift to a lower gear on the track, but might be the ECU was trying to protect the engine for overrev?

Also, it happened in the cold early morning which when i up shift to third gear from second, the shift stick popped back to neutral from third, but only happened when the car wasn't warmed up enough.

[XProject]

Originally Posted by jason86

Have you warmed up enough your car before doing the pull? Only thing happened to me was I couldn't down shift to a lower gear on the track, but might be the ECU was trying to protect the engine for overrev?

Also, it happened in the cold early morning which when i up shift to third gear from second, the shift stick popped back to neutral from third, but only happened when the car wasn't warmed up enough.

Yes, the car was warmed up. I always keep an eye on the temp.

[amrk47]

never happened to me, I have 12k miles, the way I break in my car and every car I have owned is to drive it hard, I redline shift daily in every gear from day 1 of ownership, its just the way I drive, never have had 1 issue with my car, 6mt

[Artemis]

As you mention that the phenomenon occurred shortly after your 10K maintenance: AFAIK no transmission oil change is required at that stage, but should that have happened, inquire whether the appropriate oil and quantity was applied. I recall from my 1M days that mistakes can happen: see for example this dedicated 1M fluids thread.

[XutvJet]

Originally Posted by XProject

I just finished my 10k service last week. I don’t usually pull to redline on 1st and shift to 2nd gear. Last few days when I tried, it won’t go into 2nd gear as if it was blocked. As the RPM coming down, I tried shifting to 2nd again, and it still won't go in. I have to wait for very low RPM then I can shift back to 2nd or skip 2nd and shift to 3rd. It’s not grinding gear either. It was blocked and stay in neutral. I have been driving manual for 15 years, and this is my first time happening to me. Do you guys know what is going on here?

Did happen once or on multiple occasions? If it happens all the time, then there's an issue with your 1-2 syncro which is somewhat common with the 6MTs in the M cars, 1M, and F series N55 and B58 cars. Sometimes it starts out as grinding and sometimes a lockout in the high rpms. The fix is a new transmission.

[eeyang92]

Sometimes I'll get stuck putting it into 1st or 2nd. My bandaid solution is to put it back in neutral - usually I don't have to clutch out, but some times I do - then try again.

I've also heard putting it into a different gear (i.e. 3rd) without letting out the clutch, then back into the gear you want can help.

I believe this is because the teeth are somehow perfectly aligned so that it get stuck when you try to put it into gear, and doing those things above will shift them a bit.

If none of that works, I'd get it checked out.

[XProject]

I found out that my clutch stopper was the issue. That's weird because it was fine before the 10k service. I put back OEM clutch stopper and everything is smooth now. It's a shame many people are using with no issue.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by XProject

I found out that my clutch stopper was the issue. That's weird because it was fine before the 10k service. I put back OEM clutch stopper and everything is smooth now. It's a shame many people are using with no issue.

What clutch stop did you use? This is why I am concerned about the clutch stop. It is possible to damage your synchros slowly if it really doesn't disengage completely. You're not the first person to report this on an F8x either.

As far as I know, no one has actually verified (visually) the BMS clutch stop is safe on any setting.

[XProject]

Originally Posted by chris719

What clutch stop did you use? This is why I am concerned about the clutch stop. It is possible to damage your synchros slowly if it really doesn't disengage completely. You're not the first person to report this on an F8x either.

As far as I know, no one has actually verified (visually) the BMS clutch stop is safe on any setting.

I have original from ebay username pickyeater334. I put back the clutch stopper because I hate the dead space. I'm using with just one metal washer in the middle. So far, all my gears engage just like the stock one.

[PilotxERAU]

Originally Posted by XProject

I just finished my 10k service last week. I don’t usually pull to redline on 1st and shift to 2nd gear. Last few days when I tried, it won’t go into 2nd gear as if it was blocked. As the RPM coming down, I tried shifting to 2nd again, and it still won't go in. I have to wait for very low RPM then I can shift back to 2nd or skip 2nd and shift to 3rd. It’s not grinding gear either. It was blocked and stay in neutral. I have been driving manual for 15 years, and this is my first time happening to me. Do you guys know what is going on here?

If it helps I had this happen around 4000mi. I would get grinding or full lockout when going into second from a high rev first gear and/or fast gear change to second. It does not happen anymore at 6000 mi. Now I just can’t get into first.

[M2OG]

Same thing happened to me after my break in period. I backed off on the clutch stop only to have the issue return. Removing it completely solved the problem.

[F87source]

Man this is really concerning for me because I experience the same hard to shift from 1st to 2nd on my m2 as well. It feels like it's hitting a lockout then it'll go (it doesn't make me wait till the rpms drop alot but it'll blow me down for sure) eventually but very notchy and mainly when it's cold or at high rpms. I also have the bms clutch stop with 2 shims on it. But the thing is I've noticed is that it's happened to me when the car was stock too leading me to believe that it was a I'm built torque limiter like a lock out to save 2nd gear because 1st gear ratio to 2nd is an insane drop ~4.xx - ~2.xx so the transmission attempts to protect itself. I've also heard the same issue with alot of m2 guys without a clutch stop having a 1-2 shift issue. I really hope it's doesn't have anything to do with the clutch stop because it really sucked driving the car without it, because the stock throw was insanely long.

I'll definitely remove the bms clutch stop this summer and drive it again back to back to see if I notice a difference and report back here.

Anyways please keep us updated those of you who noticed an improvement with the clutch stop removed.

[XProject]

Originally Posted by F87source

Man this is really concerning for me because I experience the same hard to shift from 1st to 2nd on my m2 as well. It feels like it's hitting a lockout then it'll go (it doesn't make me wait till the rpms drop alot but it'll blow me down for sure) eventually but very notchy and mainly when it's cold or at high rpms. I also have the bms clutch stop with 2 shims on it. But the thing is I've noticed is that it's happened to me when the car was stock too leading me to believe that it was a I'm built torque limiter like a lock out to save 2nd gear because 1st gear ratio to 2nd is an insane drop ~4.xx - ~2.xx so the transmission attempts to protect itself. I've also heard the same issue with alot of m2 guys without a clutch stop having a 1-2 shift issue. I really hope it's doesn't have anything to do with the clutch stop because it really sucked driving the car without it, because the stock throw was insanely long.

I'll definitely remove the bms clutch stop this summer and drive it again back to back to see if I notice a difference and report back here.

Anyways please keep us updated those of you who noticed an improvement with the clutch stop removed.

I removed the clutch stopper and went back to stock. I haven't experienced anything unusual. I thought I'm going to hate going back to stock but I got used to it in a couple of days. If you are experiencing lockout 1st to 2nd on high RPM, remove the clutch stopper and go back to stock asap it's not worth it.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by XProject

I removed the clutch stopper and went back to stock. I haven't experienced anything unusual. I thought I'm going to hate going back to stock but I got used to it in a couple of days. If you are experiencing lockout 1st to 2nd on high RPM, remove the clutch stopper completely asap it's not worth it.

It's not a lock out per say, it's a tougher shift like extra notchy. I'm going to hate it regardless lol because stock was unbearable that's why I bought the clutch stop.

I'll definitely test it out and see what it feels like stock vs. with the clutch stop and let you guys know.

Thanks for the reply.

[Maggers]

Thanks for this thread. I bought the clutch stop but hadn't fitted it yet. Seeing these reports I've decided to skip the bump stop swap and save for the Ultimate Clutch Pedal kit. The height of the clutch pedal is annoyingly high and it's too light from a feel perspective for me.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by XProject

I removed the clutch stopper and went back to stock. I haven't experienced anything unusual. I thought I'm going to hate going back to stock but I got used to it in a couple of days. If you are experiencing lockout 1st to 2nd on high RPM, remove the clutch stopper completely asap it's not worth it.

When you say you had to wait for the rpms to drop, how much did you let it drop for?

Also how hard did you try to pull to put it into 2nd gear? For me it took maybe aother 10-15% extra force. It just felt extra notchy and not really like a full on lockout like it feels trying to downshift into 1st above 15km/h in second.

It still is concerning to me but IIRC this was the exact same feeling stock.


PS: without the clutch stop in does your 1st to 2nd gear shift feel nocthy compared to say 3-4 or 5-6? Because for me 1-2 was always the most notchy gear even before the clutch stop, and I think it may be due to the large drop in gear ratios from 1-2.

[XProject]

Maggers I didn't know there is Ultimate Clutch Pedal kit. I'm too traumatized to do anything on the clutch now haha. Many people are using with no issue. Just bad luck.

F87source It won't go into 2nd until around 3-4k rpm. 2nd gear is always the hardest to go into. My previous car 350z and it also notchy. You just need to get used to it.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by XProject

Maggers I didn't know there is Ultimate Clutch Pedal kit. I'm too traumatized to do anything on the clutch now haha. Many people are using with no issue. Just bad luck.

F87source It won't go into 2nd until around 3-4k rpm. 2nd gear is always the hardest to go into. My previous car 350z and it also notchy. You just need to get used to it.

That's a huge drop from the 7K redline before it'll let you into gear. For me I drove an evo X gsr for awhile and that 5 speed imo was garbage. It locked me out of gears like no ones business, every cold start I would get locked out of first and would have to go to 3rd then 2nd then it unlocked first. Then every shift was notchy to the point where the gear box felt "crunchy", and the solution was a "redline cocktail" of transmission fluid and a 3lbs titanium shift knob, which made the shifts smooth. But the thing is the heavy shift knob made the biggest difference in smoothening out the shifts.

Here's the link: https://www.maperformance.com/produc...ishi-evo-x-gsr

The only issue here in my m2 is not the notchy shifts, it's the fact that i'm worried it may be associated with the synchros and clutch stop. I really doubt that it is because i've done alot of testing to make sure the clutch is fully disengaged with the clutch stop in by putting it in first, clutching in and revving it alot to see if the car would move. I also lifted the cluch and there is still a few cm's of travel before the car would creep forward so it makes me think that the clutch stop is ok. But again i'll test it out this summer and I will also likely put the car up on jacks and start it and put it in first to test out my theory on if the clutch stop allows full disengagement because maybe the car is too heavy and the minimal clutch contact cant spin the wheels. But that doesnt really make sense because there still is a distance that the pedal has to move even before the car will start to creep forward.

[Artemis]

Originally Posted by Maggers

Thanks for this thread. I bought the clutch stop but hadn't fitted it yet. Seeing these reports I've decided to skip the bump stop swap and save for the Ultimate Clutch Pedal kit. The height of the clutch pedal is annoyingly high and it's too light from a feel perspective for me.

Originally Posted by XProject

Maggers I didn't know there is Ultimate Clutch Pedal kit. I'm too traumatized to do anything on the clutch now haha. Many people are using with no issue. Just bad luck.

Franzino has an UCP on his M2 for quite some time and commented that he's pleased with it. Maybe he could chime in.

Originally Posted by Franzino

I got somewhat used to it after driving the M2 for 2.500km and I can certainly live with it, but for me it was the only thing they could actually improve on the car…..and I did improve it on my car! After 3.500km I fitted the UCP replacement clutch pedal and it made everything I did not like about the standard M2 clutch go away. This modification is cheap and gives a night and day difference on how the M2 clutch feels. I love it and love my M2 even more

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Artemis

Franzino has an UCP on his M2 for quite some time and commented that he's pleased with it. Maybe he could chime in.

Man that ultimate clutch pedal kit looks sweet!

But doesn't it make the clutch pedal further to the floor? That's the only issue for it in my opinion because the clutch already depresses too deep and when j sit in a position where I can comfortably press the clutch to the floor my gas pedal leg is bent and can't rest on the seat.

Do you know if it can lift the entire clutch throw (pedal position at rest, clutch engagement, and pedal bottom) out a few inches up? That would make it perfect and I'd buy it.