07-23-2018, 11:53 AM | #1 |
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Selling 2018 LCI M2 - Got an M2C on order
Need some advice on selling my 2018 LCI M2, 13500 miles, Mineral Grey, MT, sunroof, exec package, flawless and garaged always. Xpel cross country package from Extreme Colors in Greenville, SC. F1 ceramic tint installed in Houston.
I've got an M2 comp on order and wanted to get everyones take on selling my current M2 for top dollar. Debating selling it privately rather than trading it in. Couple of questions - Do you think it is worth the trouble? Would you let someone test drive a car with this much power not knowing them or their capabilities? How do you sell a car of this value considering transfer of funds and not getting burned? This would be my first time selling this expensive of a car.... any advice is greatly appreciated. |
07-23-2018, 12:29 PM | #2 | |
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Detail the car fill it full of gas take lots of pictures and put it on auto-trader it'll sell. |
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07-23-2018, 01:50 PM | #3 |
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How do you sell a used, non-collector car without letting potential buyers drive it? There's no way I'm dropping $45k on a used car without being able to drive it first. I can understand being hesitant if a guy comes to your door with his backwards cap and saggy pants but if the people look like legit buyers you kind of have to let them drive it if you are motivated to sell. I don't see the harm as long as you are in the car on the test drive.
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07-23-2018, 02:01 PM | #4 |
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I always get a kick out of people insisting on driving a brand new car without mods that is under warranty.
The best way to combat this is to demand a $500 deposit before the test drive. If you get a great vibe from the buyer don't even worry about taking it. But throw it in your ad to prevent issues.
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07-23-2018, 02:16 PM | #6 | |
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Before I bought the Porsche, I almost bought another one, this one not being a Turbo, and it was older. I flew to Oakland and was met by the seller, I drove the car, and agreed to purchase it. We did the transaction in a Starbucks (or other chain), I drove off, and 10 miles later the car threw a CEL. I was incredibly fortunate that the seller was a great guy, and he agreed to reverse the transaction. It was a Saturday, just several days before I was heading off on an international trip, so driving 700+ miles in an old car with a CEL was not something I wanted to do. Bottom line, don't judge your buyer by his or her attire, don't buy a used car without a test drive, and don't expect to sell one to someone else without a test drive. It's just part of the process. If you don't want to deal with the public on car sales (and I generally don't like to myself) then trade the car in or sell it to a dealer or Carmax.
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07-23-2018, 02:53 PM | #7 | |
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07-23-2018, 03:04 PM | #8 | |
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I don't let them drive it. I've never had a problem with it. Quite the opposite most people understand. |
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07-23-2018, 03:37 PM | #9 |
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Honestly if you are nervous don't do it.
I have never traded in a car in my life. My last car took 3 months to sell. You have to know the real value of your car. Know your bottom line. Have great photos. Never only communicate with potential buyers via email. If they won't give you their phone # then don't waste your time. Always have them to come your place take a photo of their licence. Don't make rules about letting them drive or not. Talk to them listen to them then make a decision. If it feels like they have the money they are unlikely to be out for a joy ride. I would never buy a car from a guy that would not let me drive it. End of story.
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07-23-2018, 03:57 PM | #10 |
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Top dollar is dictated by the market/KBB values in your area, and you'll be losing buyer interest with specific rules that you set that make the process more complicated. Sadly, there are several dealers around that are selling new LCI's for discounts already, so the used market will have to work with that as well. XPEL doesn't often increase the value of your car, just potentially more interest from buyers that can appreciate it. I second the statements above about not judging a book by its cover. I almost always intentionally go car shopping in casual wear to see who/where it is that's most deserving of my business based on the respect and time they give me.
I would try your luck posting on the forums first though since majority of your audience appreciates the car for what it is. I got lucky and had a great transaction selling my m235 on bimmerpost, local buyer found an hour after posting. The price difference between private and trading was definitely worth it. Worked everything through the bank. Buyers get equally nervous as well as they've already provided you the funds and they have to wait for them to clear before you deliver the vehicle, so there needs to be some sort of mutual trust at one point. Test drives can be controlled by you, never do something you don't feel safe doing (just understand that may hinder a sale). Best of luck! |
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07-23-2018, 04:08 PM | #11 |
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I would suggest getting a offer from Carmax first and then do the research on what the price your realistically going to get for your car in your area if you sell it yourself. Deduct a couple of grand to ground yourself in the reality that we all tend to overestimate what we can get for our precious cars and then decide if the difference is worth the many potential hassles. I have sold 6-7 cars privately some sales happen quickly with few hassles, others took a lot of my time and probably weren't worth the hassles. On the issue of test drive, this is a used car and the factory warranty does not cover damage or abuse so it is totally unreasonable to not allow a potential buyer to drive the car before they put down their hard earned money on a car that is being sold as is by you. Your car is insured, you will sit in the seat next to them so not much to worry about as long as you have vetted them a bit.
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07-23-2018, 04:41 PM | #12 | |
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Last edited by Slaney; 07-23-2018 at 04:58 PM.. |
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07-23-2018, 06:16 PM | #13 |
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There may not yet have been enough resales to generate any sort of useful data.
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07-23-2018, 06:28 PM | #14 | ||
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07-23-2018, 08:22 PM | #16 | |
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It's a BMW, not a Ferrari Enzo, and as long as you go with any potential buyer on the drive, the car will be fine. |
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07-23-2018, 08:28 PM | #17 | |
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Private sale can easily yield you the price you are looking for, low 50's high 40's or maybe even more it all depends on you, but it might take some time. No test drives on a car this expensive just give a ride if necessary. You are open to PPI's for serious buyer. Accept wire transfer or cashier check. List the car on craigslist, ebay, and maybe BAT. Use your gut instinct and always respond to perspective buyers. Be flexible on price but firm have your bottom line set up. Dont waste anybodys time.
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07-23-2018, 08:32 PM | #18 | |
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07-23-2018, 08:53 PM | #20 | |
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I guess I need to qualify this. Of course don't give your address out to everyone. Also don't publish your cell #. Once you make contact qualify people. Use your instincts. I'm not letting anyone drive my car or invite them to my house. But if you want top dollar your house and your image is part of the sales pitch. The lot where the car is sold is part of the pitch. Meeting at a super market is leveling the playing field IMHO.
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07-23-2018, 11:47 PM | #21 | |
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Selling a car yourself involves a certain amount of hassle and a certain amount of risk. The possible benefit is that you will sell to a like-minded car enthusiast, and will get more money. I have talked to a LOT of people who had cars for sale that interested me over the last few years, while I was building my little personal collection of cars (now basically done with that). I'm a very strong believer in buying the seller more than the car. When I encountered someone cold and stand-offish, or someone who was obviously not into cars on the selling end, I dropped them like a hot potato; immediately. Car enthusiasts have a way of sniffing each other out. I have been fooled once on a long distance purchase, with a car I never saw until it arrived on a car carrier in my town; as a result, I don't think I would do another long distance purchase, sight unseen, even though I had several that went well before that experience. I think you really do need to go look at the car, in person, unless perhaps if you are dealing with a person you know, or a dealer you trust. Otherwise, you gotta go there. From the seller perspective, know your buyer. In a lot of cases I think you would be better off dealing with a fellow car enthusiast, even one that has to travel to get to you. Take the time to size up your buyer, and don't get too enthusiastic about the person around the corner, whom you have never met, who expresses interest in your car. Someone who is willing to travel a distance, even to take a plane flight, might be your better buyer and you might be better off holding out for someone like that. When you do get your buyer, if you have chosen well, the issue of whether or not to let the guy drive the car before plunking down his cash, will seem silly to have even given any thought to.
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07-24-2018, 12:09 AM | #22 |
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Test Drive: seems like whether or not you should allow a test drive is a split decision. I do think many will require it, so you might have to but, as others have said, you will have some time to gauge the buyer before you allow that and of course you will be sitting [nervously] beside them if you let them drive it.
Phone Number: you won't have to give them your actual phone number before you exchange a couple emails with them once they first contact you via whatever website you list it on. Place to Meet: I never meet used car buyers at my house - I choose a nearby public location. They need to keep in contact on the day of the meeting, and they need to arrive on time, or maybe a little bit late as long as they give you notice that they're running behind AND you know they are coming from a long distance. CarMax: if you're going to bother getting a quote with them, just be fully prepared that you'll be totally wasting at least 45 min of your time, if not even longer. They will low-ball you worse than a dealer trade almost every time - their offers, at least here in MD, are quite comical (yes, I have actually laughed at them). Payment: as others said, you will want a cashier's check - a guy brought me a certified check once and we had to go to the closest branch of his bank and wait a very long time as I insisted they cash it (good thing I had some cargo shorts that day w/plenty of pockets! ). A certified check is of course not much better than a personal check. I would probably even insist on cashing or depositing a cashier's check [so a teller can verify it] before giving them the title since there are some good fraudsters out there and I don't have Secret Service training on bogus checks. Final Thought: you may also be surprised by the number of dimwits out there who want to borrow YOUR tags for the drive home (yes, after payment is verified of course but, no, still can't take my tags ). Buyers of this car will almost certainly be smarter than that, but never underestimate the potential stupidity of ppl with plenty of money. Good luck - plenty of good advice from a number of ppl here on this thread.
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