06-03-2020, 12:07 PM | #1 |
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Best track alignment - stock suspension
M2C - stock suspension/wheels/tires
I'm getting an alignment done after having the LCA monoballs installed and I wan't to make sure I get the best possible alignment for my next track day. Is there anything I need to let know shop know on how to set it up best for the track? Front/Rear negative camber? What about toe? Thanks.
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06-03-2020, 07:36 PM | #2 |
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Do you have camber plates? Without them you won't get anywhere close to a track alignment, the stock adjustment is very limited. You can ask them to max out the front camber but adjust ability is so limited you may as well go for stock alignment.
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06-03-2020, 08:04 PM | #3 |
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I'm going to assume you're referring to having the front UCAs or tension struts installed with monoballs
As noted by others in your earlier thread, the LCAs or wishbones already have sealed ball joints installed from the factory Technically you're supposed to get an alignment after replacing the front tension struts https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nts/1VnYrNqcnz However, TBH I'm not sure it's absolutely necessary unless your monoballs feature some form of caster correction If the rest of your suspension is completely stock, the only on car adjustment you can make on the front is toe Toe can have a big effect on tire wear In very general terms, toe in can improve stability while toe out can improve turn in, but like with most things there are often tradeoffs to be had and personal preference comes into play Most people shoot for around zero toe in front or just slightly toe in IIRC, factory camber in the front is typically around -1.5 degrees +/- 0.5 With stock wheels and tires, something in the -2.0 degrees to -3.0 degrees range would be ideal, but once again personal preference comes into play and you will need camber plates, adjustable arms or camber correcting swivel housings if you want to make any changes Both camber and toe can be adjusted in the rear using the eccentric factory hardware (although technically they are considered single use nuts and bolts) IIRC, factory rear camber is around -1.6 to -1.7 degrees +/- 0.4 degrees The rear should have a little toe in HTH |
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06-03-2020, 08:47 PM | #4 | |
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Well, this is interesting. My understanding was that the factory front thrust arm bushings are still rubbery and not made out of solid aluminum ball joints such as this: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...oball-upgrade/ I guess I will find out tomorrow. If they aren't much different than stock, I won't have them installed. And I guess they'll just do the stock alignment then since not much can be adjusted.
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06-03-2020, 11:11 PM | #5 | |
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I was merely pointing out that the front tension strut (thrust arm) is the upper control arm (UCA) and not the lower control arm (LCA) |
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06-03-2020, 11:20 PM | #6 |
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Oh I see. Thanks for your input.
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