[Thefog_M2CS]

Anyone have any recommendations for suspension mods to get a bit more steering feel out of the car and a bit more grip. Not just track specific mods, for street use aswell. It’s hard to do anything to the car without feeling like I’m going to ruin it lol.

[ThreeStripes]

Spherical thrust arm bushings up front and rear toe arms are generally considered to be the go-to for this. There are several options for each. Fall-line, SPL, Bimmerworld, and Mk-Motorsports all offer options for these.

[Got f1?]

Originally Posted by Thefog_M2CS

Anyone have any recommendations for suspension mods to get a bit more steering feel out of the car and a bit more grip. Not just track specific mods, for street use aswell. It’s hard to do anything to the car without feeling like I’m going to ruin it lol.

I’m sure others can comment on suspension mods as I have not done any. I know tires can have an impact on steering feel for sure. What are you running now?

I run PS4S for daily and RE71RS for track. Also used Cup2. Then again I do maybe 2 track weekends a year.

[Thefog_M2CS]

Originally Posted by Got f1?

I’m sure others can comment on suspension mods as I have not done any. I know tires can have an impact on steering feel for sure. What are you running now?

I run PS4S for daily and RE71RS for track. Also used Cup2. Then again I do maybe 2 track weekends a year.

Im running PS4S right now which are pretty decent, might consider Cup2s on my other set of wheels.

[Reddevils7]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Spherical thrust arm bushings up front and rear toe arms are generally considered to be the go-to for this. There are several options for each. Fall-line, SPL, Bimmerworld, and Mk-Motorsports all offer options for these.

Agreed. I'm running Moton solid front monoballs and it's a night and day difference in steering feeling. Mainly, it fixed steering deflection on bumps and the steering pull you get on hard braking

[mfarrzhp]

I’d like to test drive a suspension modded CS, as I can’t imagine a significantly improved handling on the street. I’ve driven a McLaren MP4 12C and a 997 GT3 extensively (not bragging, they were my uncle’s not mine), and certainly the McLaren handled better than the CS but I think the CS is easier to drive at 8/10s.

If you’re tracking it, I’m sure you’ll find the limit/weak points of the car. Mine hasn’t seen the track, sadly.

I originally was going to get a nice set of coilovers, and my shop guy convinced me to do springs only unless I was tracking it. My main goal was a lower stance while keeping OEM feel, and that’s exactly what I got.

[Thefog_M2CS]

Originally Posted by mfarrzhp

I’d like to test drive a suspension modded CS, as I can’t imagine a significantly improved handling on the street. I’ve driven a McLaren MP4 12C and a 997 GT3 extensively (not bragging, they were my uncle’s not mine), and certainly the McLaren handled better than the CS but I think the CS is easier to drive at 8/10s.

If you’re tracking it, I’m sure you’ll find the limit/weak points of the car. Mine hasn’t seen the track, sadly.

I originally was going to get a nice set of coilovers, and my shop guy convinced me to do springs only unless I was tracking it. My main goal was a lower stance while keeping OEM feel, and that’s exactly what I got.

And how is it handling so far?

[mfarrzhp]

Originally Posted by Thefog_M2CS

And how is it handling so far?

The springs are great. Maybe slightly less comfortable in comfort mode, but it feels the same. If it handles better with H&R springs, it’s negligible, but it definitely doesn’t handle any worse.

I did a C8 racing school at Spring Mountain, and that car was pretty good as well, but I prefer the handling characteristics of my CS (and a true manual).

Again, my reason for H&R springs was mainly cosmetic.

[CSBM5]

Originally Posted by Thefog_M2CS

Im running PS4S right now which are pretty decent, might consider Cup2s on my other set of wheels.

The PS4S has less "feel" than some other high end tires due to compromises made for ride comfort reasons. It's not dramatic, and the average driver would be clueless to it, but if you're tuned into driving dynamics you immediately feel the lower slope of the cornering force versus slip angle line. For a given level of slip angle, the corner force generated is slightly lower say compared to the stock PSS tire. The PS4S compound though allows higher dry and wet peak limits versus the PSS, so it's a faster tire at the extremes in addition to being a more comfortable tire than the PSS.

This somewhat happened with the RE-71RS versus the RE-71R from my experience. The RS is "less sharp" feeling, comparatively to the R, to steering inputs and also doesn't quite have the distinct feel approaching and around the limits of adhesion. It is faster than the R all out though. However, the RS is much more connected feeling that the PS4S or PSS from my experience, and for hard core drivers, it is a much more streetable tire than the R.

So, yeah, tires play a large part in that connected feel of a chassis you likely want. The Cup2 240 will likely give that at the expense of ride quality, colder temperature grip, wet grip and treadwear compared to the PS4S.

[bdogk]

My first suspension mod was replacing the stock front bar with the CSR sway bar. This made a world of difference in terms of immediate steering response and flatness in cornering.
As I track 1-2 times a year, I also decided to install Vorshlag camber plates. They were set to -2.8 deg as I didn't want to put excess inside wear on the tires from driving around town. Even at this moderate setting, my tires (Conti ECS and Cup2s) wore much more even on the track as I was also able to run them on lower psi to increase contact patch.

Due to driveway clearance and the prospect of bottoming on curbs, I did not want to lower my car, so I retained the stock springs and struts. But because of a front shock thread damage during the camber plate installation, I had to replace both front shocks. Instead of replacing with OEM units, I went with Bilstein B6 EDC front/rear set to retain the CS adjustable damping. During normal city driving, little difference is felt between the OEM and B6. But as speed increases, I can feel the B6 providing much better damping and motion control.

And yes, like shoes, different tires definitely provide different grip and feel. I have a set of Nankang CRS in waiting once I use up my Conti's at the next autoX.

[Thefog_M2CS]

Originally Posted by bdogk

My first suspension mod was replacing the stock front bar with the CSR sway bar. This made a world of difference in terms of immediate steering response and flatness in cornering.
As I track 1-2 times a year, I also decided to install Vorshlag camber plates. They were set to -2.8 deg as I didn't want to put excess inside wear on the tires from driving around town. Even at this moderate setting, my tires (Conti ECS and Cup2s) wore much more even on the track as I was also able to run them on lower psi to increase contact patch.
Due to driveway clearance and the prospect of bottoming on curbs, I did not want to lower my car, so I retained the stock springs and struts. But because of a front shock thread damage during the camber plate installation, I had to replace both front shocks. Instead of replacing with OEM units, I went with Bilstein B6 EDC front/rear set to retain the CS adjustable damping. During normal city driving, little difference is felt between the OEM and B6. But as speed increases, I can feel the B6 providing much better damping and motion control.

I started researching the B6 as well but wasn’t sure if it was worth the upgrade. I think I’m going to start off small with the monoball upgrade and make incremental changes.

[bdogk]

Originally Posted by Thefog_M2CS

I started researching the B6 as well but wasn’t sure if it was worth the upgrade. I think I’m going to start off small with the monorail upgrade and make incremental changes.

I totally concur. But in my case, I had to replace the fronts anyway due to the damaged left strut shock thread, and believe it or not, the B6's were cheaper (and better) than OEMs. Sadly though, I also had to replace the rears to match the damping characteristics of the front B6s.

All in all, I tried to save a little labor by going to a less competent shop. When all was said and done, I spent 3x more than I initially budgeted for it and this mod took over 3 months to complete due to parts availability. Live and learn