[H20neun]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

3D printed scoops. These are optimized to work on a daily/trackday car. I hope I've gotten a balance between mounted high up enough to work in all sorts of daily conditions but also get a lot of free air. Last year I ran with a simpler solution (no hose) mounted exactly there just blowing on the caliper and it helped a lot. This should be a step up with the hose and all.

STL file for download to print: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3566812

(print one as is and print one mirrored)

great work, i really like those!

have you tested them on track already? do they get enough air to cool the brakes?

maybe i'm going to print them on my brothres 3d printer and test them out!

[MagnusT]

Haven't been on track yet. But with the upgraded pads I use (PFC08) I have no doubt at all it'll be enough cooling for my driving. I bet my calipers still will go brown though.

[randyzimmer]

I finally got a car to work with and measure. I considered my traditional ducts (not much room, heat exchangers in the way of fresh air) Lower A arm ducts (not much of a way to attach them reliably, a lot of steering lock to contend with) Fans (expensive but very possible under the strut and over the ball joint) and just enhancing the factory ducts in the splash pan. I made some fins that add a bit of width and height to the slots. Easy to attach, cheap to buy. They're a bit of a chore to imagine but I hope you'll give it a try. The green lines show the location of the factory duct slot. If someone is going to the track and wants to do an A/B test, I'll send them a set for the shipping cost. https://wp.me/P4oYKc-fS

[randyzimmer]

Kevin, your mailbox is full.

[dcmac]

Any update Kev?

[DrKevM5]

Originally Posted by dcmac

Any update Kev?

Haven't had a chance to do anything due to tons of travel

[Bee Pee]

M2Comp R has ducting as follows

Front - 3 duct paths top/oem/bottom



Top and bottom add-ons can be seen in this photo..



Rear - looks like a scoop fitted - seen just poking out from behind rear rotor in the photo below...

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by randyzimmer

I finally got a car to work with and measure. I considered my traditional ducts (not much room, heat exchangers in the way of fresh air) Lower A arm ducts (not much of a way to attach them reliably, a lot of steering lock to contend with) Fans (expensive but very possible under the strut and over the ball joint) and just enhancing the factory ducts in the splash pan. I made some fins that add a bit of width and height to the slots. Easy to attach, cheap to buy. They're a bit of a chore to imagine but I hope you'll give it a try. The green lines show the location of the factory duct slot. If someone is going to the track and wants to do an A/B test, I'll send them a set for the shipping cost. https://wp.me/P4oYKc-fS

Any updates / photos of Rooducts installed ??

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by DrKevM5

I can confirm that the BP Engineering undertray fits like a glove with the Lightweight splitter.

I'm curious to know if OEM M4 GT4 scoops - part 25 & 26 from realoem link below - could be made to fit between M2 bumper underside and flat top of LW splitter

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7410

Would achieve a similar outcome as DrKevM5 w/o shelling for the $800 BP-E undertray, shipped in from China....

[Megator]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

M2Comp R has ducting as follows

Front - 3 duct paths top/oem/bottom



Top and bottom add-ons can be seen in this photo..



Rear - looks like a scoop fitted - seen just poking out from behind rear rotor in the photo below...

Where are these pics from! I am in the process of fabing something up for my M2C. See the 2NH thread.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Megator

Where are these pics from! I am in the process of fabing something up for my M2C. See the 2NH thread.

https://www.motorauthority.com/news/...tes-first-test

[Megator]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

https://www.motorauthority.com/news/...tes-first-test

Cheers!

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Megator

Cheers!

Good work BTW on the 3D printed ducts on yr m2c.

Mines OGM2 so no oem ducts from the front into the wheel wells.

I'm considering LW splitter and either BP-E replacement undertray ala DrKevM5 or LW splitter and adapting aftermarket ducts to fit between m2 bumper and LW splitter - something along the lines of these


https://www.nengun.com/re-amemiya/br...IaAo6BEALw_wcB

[MagnusT]

Some feedback on the 3D printed scoops I made, I have NO brake problems whatsoever. Very happy with the solution. For me there is no need to take air from the front at all, the scoops get all the air they need at the position they are. I drive on TrofeoR 265 & 295 that thanks to their great grip do put some extra heat into everything too.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

Some feedback on the 3D printed scoops I made, I have NO brake problems whatsoever. Very happy with the solution. For me there is no need to take air from the front at all, the scoops get all the air they need at the position they are. I drive on TrofeoR 265 & 295 that thanks to their great grip do put some extra heat into everything too.

I think this depends a lot on where you track and you you drive.

I go to Zandvoort and Zolder which are medium and heavy on the brakes and I am heavy on them to so I need all the help I can get

The M2C has those nice inlets to the front so I am going to use the :P and NL is full of sleeping policemen that I already barely clear.

Your solution is nice and what I plan to do for the rear. For now I want something I can quickly remove if I have to bring the car in to the dealer.

[Bee Pee]

Anyone got views on NACA duct install into M2 undershield as per David Warrens on e8x 135i ??


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=20256631

[M2C AW]

Originally Posted by Bee Pee

Anyone got views on NACA duct install into M2 undershield as per David Warrens on e8x 135i ??


https://www.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...php?p=20256631

Very cool. Someone has mentioned that they looked at doing something similar on the M2 but there is insufficient space..but I wonder...

[DrKevM5]

Tried it. Absolutely no room.

[randyzimmer]

Hi, Rob Norwalk reported back from his weekend:

"No brake issues during multiple 30 minute sessions with ambient temps approaching 90 degrees. For reference, MidOhio sports car chicane course – with a best lap of 1:41, and many 1:42s, which requires consistent 140+ mph downhill back stretch speeds before a downhill right hand turn #7...
...although I don’t have objective measurements, I believe improved cooling compared to last time without. Certainly no color changes to the front calipers from the day."

Although I tried to run a simulation, I had no idea what I was doing and it was interesting but useless. I was promised an instructor, maybe they'll let me try again but Rob beat me to results either way.

[DrKevM5]

Threw these on the rear. 997 Turbo Rear Brake Cooling Duct Kit. Planning on hooking up with randyzimmer for a dedicated electric fan solution for the front.

[FlyingLow78]

Originally Posted by MagnusT

Depends, layer height, nozzle size and mm/second affetcs a lot. But I think 2-3 hours per scoop with my printer settings.

Wow, that’s really fast. I’m borrowing the 3D printer at work and using your design (MASSIVE THANKS) and it’s taking almost 24 hours to finish.

I have the Porsche ducts on the lower arms as well and just tested them to observe the airflow up to 100 MPH. It appears they actually work well with some little tweaks.

[MagnusT]

Originally Posted by FlyingLow78

Wow, that’s really fast. I’m borrowing the 3D printer at work and using your design (MASSIVE THANKS) and it’s taking almost 24 hours to finish.

I have the Porsche ducts on the lower arms as well and just tested them to observe the airflow up to 100 MPH. It appears they actually work well with some little tweaks.

Wow that's a lot of print time! I hope you don't have the printer in your bedroom as I do

I was a bit overoptimistic with my previous estimate. I just checked (since I thought 24 hours was so much more than my estimate). With my (pretty cheap) Anycubic Mega-S/i3 the print time is actually a bit over 5 hours for the scoop. That is with 0,4mm nozzle, 0.3 mm print layer height and slight tweaking of number of walls and print speed. With a slightly wider nozzle and higher print height 3 hours would probably be possible though.