[infinitekidM2C]

same issue replaced. put a little nick in my paint where the light is though! Buena Park BMW. don't go there.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by aftercorbu

Both sides for my vehicle had this happen intermittently, and dealer replaced each time straight away. They said known issue. Since replacing no issues. Now I gotta go back and read about this wreck I scanned past.

It's a know issue because they never corrected the underlying reason for it; they just keep swapping fully functioning taillights and sending the customer on their way, until they show up a few months late - rinse and repeat.

I find it strange that not one of the bean-counters at BMW AG realize how much money they are unnecessarily wasting on this and actually attempt correct this issue. Good news for the taillight manufacturer's shareholders.

I mean, it didn't dawn on anyone in QA that maybe there is another reason that every single F22/87 on planet earth is supposedly coming back as "defective."

There is only so many parts in the LED light that can possible go bad and any technician with a multimeter and half a brain can test the PCB for an actual defect and give their feedback.

Good luck with your new light but I guarantee the issue is going to return until the vehicle lighting mapping is actually corrected.

[pablom2c]

I've had this error happen many times randomly with my 2020 M2C, using Carly app (similar to Bimmercode) many months ago I have deactivated that bulb check and I haven't had any more problems ever. The lights work normally always. I remember also a previous thread like this that some people were saying that removing this check could be dangerous because it could cause a fire (don't remember the logic in that) or that you won't know when the light actually goes out (it's a LED it shouldn't go bad, and if it does you will notice eventually or probably the entire tail light will go out) so any of that didn't make sense to me.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by pablom2c

I've had this error happen many times randomly with my 2020 M2C, using Carly app (similar to Bimmercode) many months ago I have deactivated that bulb check and I haven't had any more problems ever. The lights work normally always. I remember also a previous thread like this that some people were saying that removing this check could be dangerous because it could cause a fire (don't remember the logic in that) or that you won't know when the light actually goes out (it's a LED it shouldn't go bad, and if it does you will notice eventually or probably the entire tail light will go out) so any of that didn't make sense to me.

Smart guy 👍🏻

If anyone is worried about their vehicle "catching fire" from this simple coding change, they can contact Bimmercode (or Carly) via the APP and verify it's safe.

In my experience, they are pretty supportive.

[DanG]

Originally Posted by pablom2c

I've had this error happen many times randomly with my 2020 M2C, using Carly app (similar to Bimmercode) many months ago I have deactivated that bulb check and I haven't had any more problems ever. The lights work normally always. I remember also a previous thread like this that some people were saying that removing this check could be dangerous because it could cause a fire (don't remember the logic in that) or that you won't know when the light actually goes out (it's a LED it shouldn't go bad, and if it does you will notice eventually or probably the entire tail light will go out) so any of that didn't make sense to me.

What makes it worse is that the 3 series is having the same problem. It is not a 2 series specific issue.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ht+malfunction

[Rk-d]

Originally Posted by Poochie

It seems that Bimmercode has made some changes to the wording on their pre-populated option now since I first made these adjustments a few years ago,

It used to be a simple "on/off" check mark but according to their wording, "Active" means you do have LEDs and one would assume that should disable the "warm/cold" bulb check.


However, if you want to guarantee with certainty that it's done properly, go into "Expert Mode" under "REM" and make these direct adjustments below.

This I can guarantee this is 100% effective, as opposed to what Bimmercode's has available in their new pre-populated option. In the many years since I've made these changes, I have not had a single issue, included those that have done the same.

"SL" = Signal Light



REM:

3061 LceOutputChannels:

SL_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_L_IS_LED = aktiv
SL_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_R_IS_LED = aktiv

SL_2_L_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_L_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_L_IS_LED = aktiv
SL_2_R_KALTUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_R_WARMUEBERWACHUNG = nicht_aktiv
SL_2_R_IS_LED = aktiv

PM me if anything, happy to help.


Here's a snapshot of one of the changes and what it looks like:

So I’m a little confused here. Bimmercode now defaults to “active” on this option - which is the actual desired state? I’m assuming this means the M2 has this option unchecked as its default status?

I’m probably going to end up doing this, so I just want to make sure I get it straight.

Thanks for your input.

[MooMooM2]

I don't understand why checking off the check light would make the car go on fire lol, that makes no sense.

I just read pages and pages of that thread. ahha that was crazy. I still don't see how something like that would cause the car to burst into flames, I guess he did say it could but I don't know enough about this but also reading Chris responses it seems somewhat safe and really the only solution? Because keeping on putting new tail lights in is not a solution here and really a waste of time and money

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

So I'm a little confused here. Bimmercode now defaults to "active" on this option - which is the actual desired state? I'm assuming this means the M2 has this option unchecked as its default status?

I'm probably going to end up doing this, so I just want to make sure I get it straight.

Thanks for your input.

Here what it is; to keeps things simple for their customers, Bimmercode created a file and made changes to some individual coding parameters from "Expert mode" they believe you attempting to accomplish and group all those changes under one easy menu option.

That could mean under those changes they've grouped all the individual coding parameters I suggested are necessary or maybe just some of them.

It's difficult to tell unless I go through each individual coding parameters and verify that "active or "unassigned value" contains all the values changes required to accomplish this task. Maybe it is, maybe it isn't.

The only absolute way to verify that this is done properly is to bypass the "active' or 'unassigned value" option and make each individual parameter change under "Expert Mode" then save it.

I first suggested that you used the pre-populated menu option to simplify this change for folks here, with the unverified assumption that this would accomplish the task we are attempt to achieve but I believe it's better code each individually line I've listed under the "Expert Mode" menu instead.

Hope I didn't confuse you 😉

A little more FYI what each parameter translate to:

WARMUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]WARM MONITORING[/COLOR]

KALTUEBERWACHUNG = [COLOR="DarkRed"]COLD MONITORING[/COLOR]

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Poochie

The issues with the pre-LCI taillights and the LCI taillights are two exclusively different issues.

The pre-LCI fault has to do with the lack of grounding polarity.

The LCI issues is due to mismatched coding.

Both are easy fixes that can be accomplished at home but some of the folks here seem to put all their mismatched trust in the dealer's solution of swapping perfectly good hardware until the end of time.

If that works for you - or not - cool but it's certainly not the solution to this issue.

Yes, they are separate things. I won't argue that it is unsafe to code out the bulb check, however, there is no question it is masking a change in the assembly since it does not happen on brand new cars with low miles.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by chris719

Yes, they are separate things. I won't argue that it is unsafe to code out the bulb check, however, there is no question it is masking a change in the assembly since it does not happen on brand new cars with low miles.

Fair enough..

I have a keen understanding of how the system works and why this issue is occurring, thus, the correction required to resolve it, which has helped many over the years, without incident.

However, no one is putting a gun to your head; if you prefer having to roll into your dealership every other month to swap out perfectly good taillights, that's your prerogative.

Just keep in mind that this model has been discontinued and all the ones sold already are almost out of warranty, yet BMW hasn't proposed an official solution. So I wouldn't hold my breath on that happening anytime soon.

More than likely they'll keep sweeping it under the rug until they are not responsible anymore but I guarantee this error will keep reoccurring long after the warranty expires or until you get rid of your vehicle, if coding corrections are not made.

[F87source]

Just make sure if you guys are coding LED options to not use any soft on options, soft on pwm's the bulb to make it gently dim on and off. This is not good for LED's so you must use hard on, or if soft on LED is available you can use that.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by F87source

Just make sure if you guys are coding LED options to not use any soft on options, soft on pwm's the bulb to make it gently dim on and off. This is not good for LED's so you must use hard on, or if soft on LED is available you can use that.

You are referring to coding the "Welcome Light" section, that's completely independent from removing the bulb checks.

All power input for the LEDs in the vehicle are protected by its own voltage regulator/resistor, soft on/off wouldn't do anything to affect it. Some BMWs even come with that feature coded standard to soft.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Poochie

You are referring to coding the "Welcome Light" section, that's completely independent from removing the bulb checks.

All power input for the LEDs in the vehicle are protected by its own voltage regulator, soft on/off wouldn't do anything to affect it. Some BMWs even come with that feature coded standard to soft.

Yes I am referring to the welcome lights, but just incase there were additional modes to fade in the lights I just wanted to mention that.

Despite having a voltage regulator if you ask the car to pwm the voltage for the light to dim it as it would do for an incandecent bulb it will pwm the voltage for the LED which is not good for the bulb.

The modern bmws that have soft on's have the LED soft on mode, which is designed for LEDs.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yes I am referring to the welcome lights, but just incase there were additional modes to fade in the lights I just wanted to mention that.

Despite having a voltage regulator if you ask the car to pwm the voltage for the light to dim it as it would do for an incandecent bulb it will pwm the voltage for the LED which is not good for the bulb.

The modern bmws that have soft on's have the LED soft on mode, which is designed for LEDs.

I didn't list the coding parameters for altering the Welcome Lights, so if they stick to the setting I provided, they'll be find.

The taillight circuit board has on-board resistors that limit the current going to the LEDs. The power from the REM goes through this board before going to the LED tail lights themselves, making sure a safe, set, steady current is provided to the LEDs.

Even if you try to code the rear Welcome Light to "soft on" the LED regulator only allows one set amount of power, with no modulation, so "hard on" is the only option.

I messed around couple of times with no avail but soft-on did work for the pre-LCI incandescents taillights, since it didn't have its own power regulator as LED taillights do.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Poochie

I didn't list the coding parameters for altering the Welcome Lights, so if they stick to the setting I provided, they'll be find.

The taillight circuit board has an on-board resistors that limit the current going to the LEDs. The power from the REM goes through this board before going to the LED tail lights themselves, making sure a safe, set, steady current is provided to the LEDs.

Even if you try to code the rear Welcome Light to "soft on" the LED regulator only allows one set amount of power, with no modulation, so "hard on" is the only option.

I messed around couple of times with no avail but soft-on did work for the pre-LCI incandescents taillights, since it didn't have its own power regulator as LED taillights do.

That's good to know the LED lights have more protection built in than simple bulbs like the turn signals.

[Poochie]

To expand on the subject, here is some detail information on what is "cold" & "warm" bulb monitoring from BMW's official technical manual.

BMW allows their vehicle have it either on or off, depending on the type of lighting used (LED or incandescent). Consider it an elaborate "idiot light" for your turn signal and not a necessity or creates any hazardous conditions. It simply suppresses are errors, such as rapid-flashing signal light.



.

[Rk-d]

So if the bulb check is triggered, then the tail light stops working?

I want to make sure my car's behavior is consistent. Whenever this warning sounds, the actual rear passenger tail light will not light up.

Inevitably, when I turn the car off, the warning goes away and the tail light works like normal...until the next time the warning is triggered.

Is this what people are seeing?

[DanG]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

So if the bulb check is triggered, then the tail light stops working?

I want to make sure my car's behavior is consistent. Whenever this warning sounds, the actual rear passenger tail light will not light up.

Inevitably, when I turn the car off, the warning goes away and the tail light works like normal...until the next time the warning is triggered.

Is this what people are seeing?

I find that if you use the turn signal several times after the warning it then starts working normally and the warning goes away. No need to turn the car off.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

So if the bulb check is triggered, then the tail light stops working?

I want to make sure my car's behavior is consistent. Whenever this warning sounds, the actual rear passenger tail light will not light up.

Inevitably, when I turn the car off, the warning goes away and the tail light works like normal...until the next time the warning is triggered.

Is this what people are seeing?

Nothing happens if you disable it the bulb check for the rear turn signal.

Think of it this way; you know how when your gas tank is about to be empty, you get a pop-up warning, indicting there is like 20 miles left before you're running on fumes. Imagine disabling this specific warning message (which you can BTW) so it no longer notifies you of this event.

That's essentially what you are doing by disabling the turn signal bulb check warning message. Everything still works as normal but it's just the system is no longer checking for any faults, thus, no more rapid-flashing turn signal warning.

Like I mentioned, LEDs last the life of the vehicle, so the bulb check is really unnecessary. And you are not disabling the system check for any other lighting, just specifically the (rear) turn signal only. All other warning lights such as the brake, tails, reverse, ect remains active.

BMW disables the bulb check for all their other vehicles with LED turn signal lights but some strange reason they left it on for the 2 Series, which makes absolutely no sense. I believe it's an oversight on their part that they just refuse to correct.

.

[Rk-d]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Nothing happens if you disable it the bulb check for the rear turn signal.

Think of it this way; you know how when your gas tank is about to be empty, you get a pop-up warning, indicting there is like 20 miles left before you're running on fumes. Imagine disabling this specific warning message (which you can BTW) so it no longer notifies you of this event.

That's essentially what you are doing by disabling the turn signal bulb check warning message. Everything still works as normal but it's just the system is no longer checking for any faults, thus, no more rapid-flashing turn signal warning.

Like I mentioned, LEDs last the life of the vehicle, so the bulb check is really unnecessary. And you are not disabling the system check for any other lighting, just specifically the (rear) turn signal only. All other warning lights such as the brake, tails, reverse, ect remains active.

BMW disables the bulb check for all their other vehicles with LED turn signal lights but some strange reason they left it on for the 2 Series, which makes absolutely no sense. I believe it's an oversight on their part that they just refuse to correct.

.

Ok - get that. But when my warning goes off, the tail light actually stops working.

I am not sure why the bulb check would be turning off the LED - unless it’s cutting power as some sort of protection scheme?

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Rk-d

Ok - get that. But when my warning goes off, the tail light actually stops working.

I am not sure why the bulb check would be turning off the LED - unless it's cutting power as some sort of protection scheme?

The system was designed for incandescent bulbs to detect a blown light by measuring a certain
amount of power (current) usage. So say the computer is mapped to expect 5 amps of usage from incandescent bulb. LEDs lights draw a fraction of that, let's say .9 amps.

So now with LEDs installed, the computer mapping expecting a 5 amp draw from an incandescent bulb but since it's only pulling .9 amps from an LED, under the thresholds it is programed to expect, it is assuming that there is a fault or an opened circuit (burnt out bulb). As a result, the blinker is made to blink faster as an indication that you have a failed lamp even though the LED is working fine.

[COLOR="Green"]The "rapid flashing" indicator is just to notify the driver that a bulb might be out, which is federally mandated automotive requirement. All vehicles, not just BMWs, does this when it assumes a turn signal bulb might be out as a heads-up to the responsible vehicle's operator. [/COLOR]

When BMW went from pre-LCI incandescent turn signal lights to LCI LEDs, they used the same (REM) computer and incandescent bulb mapping, which is why the system is assuming it still has a defective incandescent bulb installed, due to the lower power draw from functioning LEDs.

With the "bulb checks" still on, the computer is not able to distinguish the difference between an actual burnt out (5V) halogen bulb and a (.9) fully-functioning low power draw LED light, so an error code or lamp out indicator is triggered.

It doesn't cut any power or affect the lighting function in any way by disabling the bulb checks. All it's doing is asking the computer to no longer notify you if there is any rear turn signal faults, an option for which it is naturally designed for. Everything works as is suppose to just without the incorrect fault messages being trigged.

.

[Rk-d]

Originally Posted by Poochie

The system was designed for incandescent bulbs to detect a bad light bulb by measuring a certain
amount of power (current) usage. So say the computer is mapped to expect 5 amps of usage from incandescent bulb. LEDs lights draw a fraction of that, let's say .9 amps.

So now with LEDs installed, the computer mapping expecting a 5 amp draw from an incandescent bulb but since it's only pulling .9 amps from an LED, under the thresholds is programed to expect, it's assuming there is a fault or opened circuit (burnt out bulb). As a result, the blinker is made to blink faster as an indication that you have a failed lamp even though the LED is working fine.

The "rapid flashing" indicator is just to notify the driver that a bulb might be out, which is federally mandated automotive requirement. All vehicles, not just BMWs, does this when it assumes a turn signal light might be out as a head-up to the driver.

When BMW went from pre-LCI incandescent turn signal lights to LCI LEDs, they used the same (REM) computer and incandescent bulb mapping, which is why the system is assuming it still has an incandescent bulb installed, due to the lower power draw from LEDs.

With the "bulb checks" still on, the computer is not able to distinguish the difference between an actual burnt out (5V) halogen bulb and a (.9) fully-functioning low power draw LED light, so an error code or lamp out indicator is triggered.

It doesn't cut any power or affect the lighting function in any way by disabling the bulb checks. All it's doing is asking the computer to no longer notify you if there is any rear turn signal faults, an option for which it is naturally designed for. Everything works as is suppose to just without the incorrect fault messages being trigged.

Ok. Then I have a different problem.

When my warning light goes on - the tail light is not actually working. I'll walk to the back of the car and see that the light is physically not blinking ( or else it's extremely dim and not visible in the day light).

This is not just a false alarm situation - I actually have a dysfunctional tail light when the the warning chimes. Sometimes the light will start working again and the rapid blinking inside the car goes away. Or if I turn the car off and back on again - everything is back to to normal.

For other folks who have the tail light warning - are your tail lights actually working despite the warning?