[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by Toxic-mp

1-3 is old one,4-10 is new.

Can't find this Madtrace hub part. Where did you get these? Do you have the 2NH brake option?

Thanks!

[Bewstd]

glad I remembered this thread, took a break from tracking to focus on business but am about to start back up. Sadly I got F*&ked over by someone advertising a 3d printed kit from Europe on the Facebook M2 pages and they haven't owned up to never shipping it etc etc.


Looks like thanks to the nice OP and others I'll get my friend to 3d print some parts and make my own kit instead of doing this one https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...or-m2-f87-bmw/

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by Bewstd

glad I remembered this thread, took a break from tracking to focus on business but am about to start back up. Sadly I got F*&ked over by someone advertising a 3d printed kit from Europe on the Facebook M2 pages and they haven't owned up to never shipping it etc etc.


Looks like thanks to the nice OP and others I'll get my friend to 3d print some parts and make my own kit instead of doing this one https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...or-m2-f87-bmw/

If you have some 3d files please share. I'd like to tinker around with this even if I don't plan to use them.

[Kvale_turismo]

Originally Posted by Bewstd

glad I remembered this thread, took a break from tracking to focus on business but am about to start back up. Sadly I got F*&ked over by someone advertising a 3d printed kit from Europe on the Facebook M2 pages and they haven't owned up to never shipping it etc etc.


Looks like thanks to the nice OP and others I'll get my friend to 3d print some parts and make my own kit instead of doing this one https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...or-m2-f87-bmw/

Just ordered the Speed Engineering brake cooling kit mentioned above for my OG M2. But, I can only find the installation video for the M2C which has the brake cooling duct in the fenderliner. Does anyone know how the OG M2 kit is installed?

[FrankMstein]

Originally Posted by DrKevM5

BP Engineering undertray received

Can someone please send me the link to this part. I can not seem to find it!!

[DrKevM5]

Originally Posted by FrankMstein

Can someone please send me the link to this part. I can not seem to find it!!

I had to contact them directly to order the under tray separately. http://www.bp-engineering.com/?page_id=9952

[DrKevM5]

I am the OP and I thought I’d give you an update on my setup. I’ve upgraded my rears to AP 9449s to compliment the front AP 9660s. I was intrigued by this rear brake duct package that I purchased through Burkhart Engineering. Thought it would be a bit more efficient than the Porsche ducts. The finish of the carbon fiber is incredible. Shame no one will see them! I’ve since opened up the backing plates a bit more for better air flow. https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...d-engineering/

[F87source]

Originally Posted by DrKevM5

I am the OP and I thought I’d give you an update on my setup. I’ve upgraded my rears to AP 9449s to compliment the front AP 9660s. I was intrigued by this rear brake duct package that I purchased through Burkhart Engineering. Thought it would be a bit more efficient than the Porsche ducts. The finish of the carbon fiber is incredible. Shame no one will see them! I’ve since opened up the backing plates a bit more for better air flow. You’re welcome. https://burkhart-engineering.com/en/...d-engineering/

It's a bad idea to duct air to the rotor face because only the rear side would be cooled thus cause unevening heating. This will cause the rotor to crack and or warp over time. It is better to duct air into the hat, and then let the rotor vanes suck the cool air through the inner surface of the disc thereby cooling both sides evenly.

[DrKevM5]

Originally Posted by F87source

It's a bad idea to duct air to the rotor face because only the rear side would be cooled thus cause unevening heating. This will cause the rotor to crack and or warp over time. It is better to duct air into the hat, and then let the rotor vanes suck the cool air through the inner surface of the disc thereby cooling both sides evenly.

Thanks for the info. How does it differ from front kits with the ducting directly on the rotor faces?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by DrKevM5

Thanks for the info. How does it differ from front kits with the ducting directly on the rotor faces?

The front brake kits that duct directly to the rotor faces are all poorly designed. Ap racing has an article about this on their site.


So far I have seen one good brake ducting kit, and it is made by Westersund

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1895176


This kit actual aims the air right into the hat.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by F87source

The front brake kits that duct directly to the rotor faces are all poorly designed. Ap racing has an article about this on their site.


So far I have seen one good brake ducting kit, and it is made by Westersund

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1895176


This kit actual aims the air right into the hat.

Thanks you!

I just built a new computer to be able to 3D-scan the uprights to design a new backing plate and make them out of carbon instead. Will try to implement most of the ideas some of you have contributed with. Will buy a 3D-scanner this month as the new 3D-printer will arrive this month as well. Will be a busy spring...

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Thanks you!

I just built a new computer to be able to 3D-scan the uprights to design a new backing plate and make them out of carbon instead. Will try to implement most of the ideas some of you have contributed with. Will buy a 3D-scanner this month as the new 3D-printer will arrive this month as well. Will be a busy spring...

You ought to sell the 3D files, but I guess there is no way to keep those from being given away. If you need someone to test a 3D print version I'm looking to see what I can print on my home printer. I want to 3D print a connector that uses the factory CS cooling opening.

Is there any improvement from removing the backing plate for track days. Seems like that would allow more heat to radiate out from disc.

I'm looking for a system that I swap on for track days when swapping pads, and then remove when swapping back to street pads.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

You ought to sell the 3D files, but I guess there is no way to keep those from being given away. If you need someone to test a 3D print version I'm looking to see what I can print on my home printer. I want to 3D print a connector that uses the factory CS cooling opening.

Is there any improvement from removing the backing plate for track days. Seems like that would allow more heat to radiate out from disc.

I'm looking for a system that I swap on for track days when swapping pads, and then remove when swapping back to street pads.

Many have asked about the files and as you say there's no way to control the spread once they are set loose, I will still provide parts and to some extent still sell the old setup as well if there's an interest in those.

As far as cooling the brakes, removing the backing plates will help cool the brakes as the heat won't be contained in the discs as much. But that heat has to go somewhere and will radiate inward and to some extent it might shorten the lifespan of the boots covering the joints. In a race car that's not an issue due to the use of uniballs. Personally I haven't had any issues with the boots as the closest boot (steering knuckle) is covered by the backing plate.

[David.m]

Originally Posted by Westersund

As far as cooling the brakes, removing the backing plates will help cool the brakes as the heat won't be contained in the discs as much. But that heat has to go somewhere and will radiate inward and to some extent it might shorten the lifespan of the boots covering the joints. In a race car that's not an issue due to the use of uniballs. Personally I haven't had any issues with the boots as the closest boot (steering knuckle) is covered by the backing plate.

I cut my front shields to keep a small piece that protects the steering/suspension ball joints (installed GT3 scoops & new oem rotors at the same time). I've just gone through a set of Pagid RSL29 track pads (swap back to oem for street) and the rotors are in reasonable condition, a little bit of crazing and 1 or 2 very small cracks whereas the original rotors (with complete stock setup) after a set of the Pagid's had cracks everywhere with bigger cracks on the inner face.

I'm just about the replace the rear rotors but not sure if it's worth removing the rear dust shields?? Anyone removed the rear shields and can offer for/against?

The rear rotors are completely free of crazing/cracks, just worn to min thickness and 1 set of rear Pagid 29's lasted 2 sets of fronts (I go DSC OFF). I go MDM on mountain drives (oem pads) and since doing the front shield/GT3 scoop mod have not had any fade issues.

[medphysdave]

Originally Posted by Westersund

Many have asked about the files and as you say there's no way to control the spread once they are set loose, I will still provide parts and to some extent still sell the old setup as well if there's an interest in those.

As far as cooling the brakes, removing the backing plates will help cool the brakes as the heat won't be contained in the discs as much. But that heat has to go somewhere and will radiate inward and to some extent it might shorten the lifespan of the boots covering the joints. In a race car that's not an issue due to the use of uniballs. Personally I haven't had any issues with the boots as the closest boot (steering knuckle) is covered by the backing plate.

I'd be interested in this setup. My main goal is making sure my red calipers don't discolor and maximizing pad life.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by medphysdave

I'd be interested in this setup. My main goal is making sure my red calipers don't discolor and maximizing pad life.

I will be making an effert this spring to get everything finished.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by David.m

I cut my front shields to keep a small piece that protects the steering/suspension ball joints (installed GT3 scoops & new oem rotors at the same time). I've just gone through a set of Pagid RSL29 track pads (swap back to oem for street) and the rotors are in reasonable condition, a little bit of crazing and 1 or 2 very small cracks whereas the original rotors (with complete stock setup) after a set of the Pagid's had cracks everywhere with bigger cracks on the inner face.

I'm just about the replace the rear rotors but not sure if it's worth removing the rear dust shields?? Anyone removed the rear shields and can offer for/against?

The rear rotors are completely free of crazing/cracks, just worn to min thickness and 1 set of rear Pagid 29's lasted 2 sets of fronts (I go DSC OFF). I go MDM on mountain drives (oem pads) and since doing the front shield/GT3 scoop mod have not had any fade issues.

I don't know if I would bother removing the backing plate at the rear, it's a lot busier than the front suspension and with the added risk of getting in more water and crap at the handbrake area.

[Detoxified]

I got something I’m working on and wanted to share a teaser

Take a guess as to where the air is being fed in from…

Should be wrapped up today or tomorrow at the latest. Just need to size the hose accordingly and tidy it up in the wheel well.

[Detoxified]

Completed install with proper ducting to brake rotor.