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      07-18-2019, 03:50 AM   #89
Cristian135
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What difference do these springs have that also reduce the travel of the stock shock absorber with the eibach kit? the two kits reduce the height and also the stroke that is bad for the shock absorber ..?
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      07-18-2019, 06:16 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cristian135 View Post
What difference do these springs have that also reduce the travel of the stock shock absorber with the eibach kit? the two kits reduce the height and also the stroke that is bad for the shock absorber ..?
I've had these installed for a month and to be honest I'm not really happy with the drive. I feel they are too bouncy and tend to bottom out more than the stock springs. I live in Sydney, Australia and do quite spirited drives on all types of roads especially rural ones and I don't trust the new setup as much as I did the stock one. Only change I've done is 255/275 PS4S tyres.

I have read the stock springs are linear type and the KW HAS are progressive type, which don't work as well with the stock dampening.
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      07-25-2019, 08:35 PM   #91
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Just wondering - are you guys able to adjust the rear height just by removing the wheel? Or do you some how need to take some of the tension out of the spring?
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      07-25-2019, 10:34 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlas View Post
Just wondering - are you guys able to adjust the rear height just by removing the wheel? Or do you some how need to take some of the tension out of the spring?
This has been discussed here before. Assuming you have the rear adjustable perches installed correctly at the top of the spring, yes it can be done but it is a lot harder than it should be.

Firstly, the wheel arch liners limit the arc you can swing the C-spanner through on the adjustment ring. You can only barely get it moved one notch at a time then you have to re-position the C-spanner and keep going over and over.

Secondly, when you do turn it, often the base plate will rotate against the car bodywork so it isn’t making an adjustment at all. There are various solutions offered which range from munting your adjusters with an angle grinder so you can hold it in place with a screw driver (not recommended) to applying some sort of a c-clamp to the base plate to stop it moving. What I find works best is to turn the c-spanner very rapidly in a jerking motion – this is less likely to rotate the base plate compared to a slow gentle turning motion.

Another option to consider it getting your installer to apply some sort of medium strength bonding agent (like Sikaflex) to the base plate during install. This will stop it rotating during adjustment but not make it impossible to remove in future. Or you could fix it in place by punching a set-screw through it.

Finally, if you need to adjust more than two or three full turns, you are probably better doing what KW recommend which is to remove the spring completely. If you try and turn it a dozen or more turns by working one notch at a time, that’s going to get infuriating really fast.
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      07-25-2019, 11:04 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
This has been discussed here before. Assuming you have the rear adjustable perches installed correctly at the top of the spring, yes it can be done but it is a lot harder than it should be.

Firstly, the wheel arch liners limit the arc you can swing the C-spanner through on the adjustment ring. You can only barely get it moved one notch at a time then you have to re-position the C-spanner and keep going over and over.

Secondly, when you do turn it, often the base plate will rotate against the car bodywork so it isn’t making an adjustment at all. There are various solutions offered which range from munting your adjusters with an angle grinder so you can hold it in place with a screw driver (not recommended) to applying some sort of a c-clamp to the base plate to stop it moving. What I find works best is to turn the c-spanner very rapidly in a jerking motion – this is less likely to rotate the base plate compared to a slow gentle turning motion.

Another option to consider it getting your installer to apply some sort of medium strength bonding agent (like Sikaflex) to the base plate during install. This will stop it rotating during adjustment but not make it impossible to remove in future. Or you could fix it in place by punching a set-screw through it.

Finally, if you need to adjust more than two or three full turns, you are probably better doing what KW recommend which is to remove the spring completely. If you try and turn it a dozen or more turns by working one notch at a time, that’s going to get infuriating really fast.
Care to explain why slotting the perches isn't recommended? This is actually how KW used to make them for our cars and still makes a variety of their coilovers.
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      07-26-2019, 04:11 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Care to explain why slotting the perches isn't recommended? This is actually how KW used to make them for our cars and still makes a variety of their coilovers.
Ah yes, I saw your slotted perches.

Look, I'm sure they work and if you are happy with the way they look after being modified, that's probably all that matters.

There's probably not an American translation for the word "munted" which was the term I used to describe it. Urban dictionary has one though.
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      07-26-2019, 09:46 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
Ah yes, I saw your slotted perches.

Look, I'm sure they work and if you are happy with the way they look after being modified, that's probably all that matters.

There's probably not an American translation for the word "munted" which was the term I used to describe it. Urban dictionary has one though.
Well, since you have no reason why it's a bad idea, you should quit spreading crap like that.
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      07-30-2019, 04:19 AM   #96
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I have a HAS and it works just fine, but I'm thinking about going DDC. My buddy's M2 has DDC installed and his M3 has V4. Both of his cars seemed a lot smoother after 160mph than mine and he took turns a lot better. Price point is night and day though compared to the HAS. The HAS gives you more bang for your buck.
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      07-30-2019, 11:39 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by warrior808 View Post
Both of his cars seemed a lot smoother after 160mph
Please tell me you mean KPH, lol.
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      07-31-2019, 07:10 AM   #98
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Can someone explain to me why I should put some HAS instead of normal sport springs? I mean the main diffrence between these two are the height adjustable settings, but if you buy HAS and keep it like that from day 1 I don't really see the advantage over sport springs?

Or am I missing something.
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      07-31-2019, 06:36 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
This has been discussed here before. Assuming you have the rear adjustable perches installed correctly at the top of the spring, yes it can be done but it is a lot harder than it should be.

Firstly, the wheel arch liners limit the arc you can swing the C-spanner through on the adjustment ring. You can only barely get it moved one notch at a time then you have to re-position the C-spanner and keep going over and over.

Secondly, when you do turn it, often the base plate will rotate against the car bodywork so it isn’t making an adjustment at all. There are various solutions offered which range from munting your adjusters with an angle grinder so you can hold it in place with a screw driver (not recommended) to applying some sort of a c-clamp to the base plate to stop it moving. What I find works best is to turn the c-spanner very rapidly in a jerking motion – this is less likely to rotate the base plate compared to a slow gentle turning motion.

Another option to consider it getting your installer to apply some sort of medium strength bonding agent (like Sikaflex) to the base plate during install. This will stop it rotating during adjustment but not make it impossible to remove in future. Or you could fix it in place by punching a set-screw through it.

Finally, if you need to adjust more than two or three full turns, you are probably better doing what KW recommend which is to remove the spring completely. If you try and turn it a dozen or more turns by working one notch at a time, that’s going to get infuriating really fast.
Cheers thanks for the very helpful explanation - confirmed my suspicions! I ended up taking it back to my installer to remove the springs and adjust the height for me. After watching him do it, I’m glad I didn’t attempt it myself!
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      03-04-2020, 03:46 PM   #100
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Hmm, guys what is better to choose KW HAS or MSS kit?
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      03-13-2020, 08:23 AM   #101
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The main issue I have and the concerns are-

-you can install these spring kits that have been designed around the factory dampening as much as possible but because they are an afterthought the first time you install the springs the car is going to feel amazing the issue is two years down the road after you have put let's say put 10K miles on them.

Most people don't realize their car handles like shit when they install springs on them because there's a wow factor the cool factor blinds them and as they continue to drive the car they don't realize how shitty the car handles unless someone tells them or drives their car or they drive a stock vehicle.

My suggestion and taking my own advice from someone who's install lowering springs on all my cars is to buy a adjustable coilover and buy from a reputable company.

The M2 competition is a special vehicle and an expensive one. my advice is don't rush don't modify the suspension until you have the money and the means to do it right.
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      03-13-2020, 09:42 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaacky View Post
Can someone explain to me why I should put some HAS instead of normal sport springs? I mean the main diffrence between these two are the height adjustable settings, but if you buy HAS and keep it like that from day 1 I don't really see the advantage over sport springs?

Or am I missing something.
Sport springs only have one height setting. HAS can be set however you like. The point of HAS isn't to change height settings frequently, it's to get the car sitting exactly how you want.

Having had h&r sport springs prior to my KW's I can tell you they did not sit as low as I had liked and switching to a HAS kit gave me what I wanted.
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      05-12-2020, 04:51 AM   #103
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The MSS kit rides better from what I heard from Imran at Evolve and has more adjustable height travel. You can bring your car to stock height and and still get that great ride.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kempson View Post
Hmm, guys what is better to choose KW HAS or MSS kit?
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      05-12-2020, 09:11 AM   #104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kempson View Post
Hmm, guys what is better to choose KW HAS or MSS kit?
this is where I am right meow
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      05-12-2020, 09:12 AM   #105
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I just got the KW HAS kit. Tried and proven. Didn’t want to mess around.
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      05-21-2020, 07:46 PM   #106
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I'm on the lowest setting, kw has. Rides great..looks great. I think I will eventually go with ohlins however. [IMG][/IMG]
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      05-26-2020, 08:01 PM   #107
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I don't understand why people speak ill of eibach if these springs do the same but with height adjustment ... It's absurd ...
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      05-30-2020, 11:09 PM   #108
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I know that the MSS kit can but I doubt that KW kit doesn’t.
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      05-31-2020, 04:05 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayrhee7 View Post
Can the KW H.A.S Kit be adjusted to stock ride height?
Lowering adjustment ranges

Front from 0.6" to 1.2"

Rear from 0.2" to 1.2"
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      06-28-2020, 02:48 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thic_F30 View Post
I'm on the lowest setting, kw has. Rides great..looks great. I think I will eventually go with ohlins however. [IMG][/IMG]
In the first picture, the rear looks spot on.
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