[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Wow, by "facts" I meant the official technical manual excerpt I provided, not the anecdotal story I used to support it.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...older/F6WrZ7vI

But forget it, I already see you're not the type to let supporting data get in way of your argument. Good luck with all that.

For those that actually care to preserve the life of their replacement battery, it certainly needs to be registered, as stipulated by ISTA+ dealer program. Even manufactures like Ford now requires it.

I've done the registration process a few times and with the right software, it takes less than 10 mins. Here's snapshot of the process.

Unless I'm missing something, and please correct me if I am, there is absolutely nothing in the images you provided or ISTA+ documenting the technical reasons that all batteries need to be registered. Meanwhile, I've provided multiple technical reasons in how IBS works that shows not all batteries "need" to be registered to perform properly, and registering may even be harmful to used batteries.

EDIT: Ok. I see what you're talking about now. The image you posted a while up that says "When installing a new vehicle battery, the battery must be registered" I was commenting on you saying used batteries must be registered and that that is harmful. The discrepancy is only in that statement.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Unless I'm missing something, and please correct me if I am, there is absolutely nothing in the images you provided or ISTA+ documenting the technical reasons that all batteries need to be registered. Meanwhile, I've provided multiple technical reasons in how IBS works that shows not all batteries "need" to be registered to perform properly, and registering may even be harmful to some batteries.

Damn bro, you really think I'm pulling this out of my ass, don't you. I didn't expect that I would have to convince anyone of this, so I didn't take precise photos. I'll keep that in mind next time.

When you run the ISTA+ program, you can access the current battery's profile, a histogram of charge cycle, the prior registration date, mileage, projected life, ect.

Registration just means your telling the vehicle that their is a new battery and it should forget everything it knows about the current battery profile and adapt to a new one. That's it, it's not that complicated.

My friend had bought an OEM battery, he never registered it, it died within a year. BMW refused to replace it under the warranty because there was no hard data within the vehicle's computer to show the last date of registration.

If you don't register the battery, as prescribed by BMW, on top of it dying prematurely, the warranty would not be valid.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by Poochie

Damn bro, you really think I'm pulling this out of my ass, don't you. I didn't expect that I would have to convince anyone of this, so I didn't take precise photos. I'll keep that in mind next time.

When you run the ISTA+ program, you can access the current battery's profile, a histogram of charge cycle, the prior registration date, mileage, projected life, ect.

Registration just means your telling the vehicle that their is a new battery and it should forget everything it knows about the current battery profile and adapt to a new one. That's it, it's not that complicated.

My friend had bought an OEM battery, he never registered it, it died within a year. BMW refused to replace it under the warranty because there was no hard data within the vehicle's computer to show the last date of registration.

If you don't register the battery, as prescribed by BMW, on top of it dying prematurely, the warranty would not be valid.

I'm really confused about what you're arguing here. I am not disagreeing with you that new batteries should be registered. I am disagreeing that they "need" to be registered. And also disagreed that used batteries should be registered.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

I'm really confused about what you're arguing here. I am not disagreeing with you that new batteries should be registered. I am disagreeing that they "need" to be registered. And also disagreed that used batteries should be registered.

You don't "need" to do anything.. No one is putting a gun to your head; It's your car, do whatever you please with it.

But you "should" register the new battery or like I mention several times already; it will cause the battery to die prematurely or BMW will invalidate the battery's warranty, if they can't verify the last time the battery they sold you was not registered properly via the vehicle's computer.

[chmura]

I read that if someone wants to put a Lithium battery from the M3/M4 into their M2c that the IBS cable needs to be disconnected. Will this throw a check engine light on the dash?

I'm sure this could be retrofitted to work 100% with the IBS cable attached. The entire engine including alternator is the same on the M3 and M2c.

I wonder what else is different between the m2c and m3/M4.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

My Anti Gravity Battery just arrived. Will be installing it tomorrow or Thur latest. Will take some pics...
Its lighttttttt!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by chmura

I read that if someone wants to put a Lithium battery from the M3/M4 into their M2c that the IBS cable needs to be disconnected. Will this throw a check engine light on the dash?

I'm sure this could be retrofitted to work 100% with the IBS cable attached. The entire engine including alternator is the same on the M3 and M2c.

I wonder what else is different between the m2c and m3/M4.

As I previously mentioned, when you attempt to register a battery to the original M2's software, it only allows you choose an amperage as low as 80ah, the M4's lithium ion battery is only 69ah and there is no way to overwrite that with BMW's pre-populated ISTA+ menu.

So I guess the only work-around if you choose to use the M4's battery is bypassing the IBS, which can be hazardous during a crash if the airbags deploy, since the IBS setup works in conjunction with the collision system.

Do you mind sharing your source on this bypass suggestion. Thanx.

[Anthony1s]

I don't know if this is a mistake or not, I imagine it is, but these lightweight batteries are listed from $178 to $240 depending on model.

https://www.hpashop.com/Braille-Ligh...ht-battery.htm

[SEAT TIME RULES]

I installed the Anti Gravity drop in 40Ah=1500Ca(cranking amps)

https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h7-rs/

As others have mentioned the M2 software does not allow any other battery to be registered other than OEM 80ah.

I'm not worried about it. The Antigravity drop in is working great and came with the Battery Tracker Bluetooth kit. It allows me to monitor my battery from my phone. Its simple and effective tech..

https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...acker-lithium/

I also have a Lithium trickle charger that I'll use when the cars not being driven.

It weighs 15.6 lbs vs 58.7 lbs for the OEM Lead Acid.

43 lbs+ rear seat delete =~100 lbs of easy weight loss. I'll also go with the QRT seats in a few years as well. Saving another 100 lbs. The Essex BBK along with 18" rims will save even more weight.

Next step is the Essex front BBK, 18 rims with 275/35 sq setup running the new Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3R's. or 285/30 BFG R1's. Along with TC Kline's D/A Koni setup.

[Robbyjai]

just following up on this any issue with the lithium battery as i plan to do the same

[Maynard]

Do they have any problems tolerating heat? For interest I put a sensor in my battery well, and on track was getting temps up above 140 (ambient about 89-85, and some longer sessions, 45min plus).

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by Maynard

Do they have any problems tolerating heat? For interest I put a sensor in my battery well, and on track was getting temps up above 140 (ambient about 89-85, and some longer sessions, 45min plus).

No problems. Most times the battery is much cooler inside the vehicle than if were installed under the hood.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I installed the Anti Gravity drop in 40Ah=1500Ca(cranking amps)

https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...tive/ag-h7-rs/

As others have mentioned the M2 software does not allow any other battery to be registered other than OEM 80ah.

I'm not worried about it. The Antigravity drop in is working great and came with the Battery Tracker Bluetooth kit. It allows me to monitor my battery from my phone. Its simple and effective tech..

https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...acker-lithium/

I also have a Lithium trickle charger that I'll use when the cars not being driven.

It weighs 15.6 lbs vs 58.7 lbs for the OEM Lead Acid.

43 lbs+ rear seat delete =~100 lbs of easy weight loss. I'll also go with the QRT seats in a few years as well. Saving another 100 lbs. The Essex BBK along with 18" rims will save even more weight.

Next step is the Essex front BBK, 18 rims with 275/35 sq setup running the new Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar 3R's. or 285/30 BFG R1's. Along with TC Kline's D/A Koni setup.

Hard necroing this thread lol. But did you just register it as 80AH? Any issues so far? I see they offer a 40 AH and 80 AH models, but it would be nice to save weight + $ and go for the lower one.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

Hard necroing this thread lol. But did you just register it as 80AH? Any issues so far? I see they offer a 40 AH and 80 AH models, but it would be nice to save weight + $ and go for the lower one.

I have the 40AH one. The battery itself has built in adaption to compensate for charging. I tried to have it "registered" but the options available did not match the new battery. I've had it in the car for over 30K miles now. no problems

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I have the 40AH one. The battery itself has built in adaption to compensate for charging. I tried to have it "registered" but the options available did not match the new battery. I've had it in the car for over 30K miles now. no problems

Awesome, great to hear, thanks! I might split the difference and get 60AH and just register it as 80AH - from reading this thread, that is the lowest it'll go for the M2 (which I assume you did? Or did you not register it at all?)

[bitcore]

Thanks for the reply, SEAT TIME RULES, useful data point.

Does the M2 software allow configuring "lithium" as a battery chemistry type? Even if it only caters for 80ah, I'd expect that to be substantially better for longevity. I'm concerned that the charging circuit may treat the battery with lead acid AGM charge curves, instead of a more appropriate lithium chemistry charging curve. Battery capacity curves according to voltage is very different between the two chemistries. I'm aware that the alternator output on our cars are digitally controlled, unlike old style alternators that simply targeted a specified voltage at all times and varied amperage according to RPM.

Does anyone know of a way to alter the car's programming to utilize different charging chemistries that are available in other BMW lineups? From memory, my '09 N54 135i had options for both lithium and lead acid.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by bitcore

Thanks for the reply, SEAT TIME RULES, useful data point.

Does the M2 software allow configuring "lithium" as a battery chemistry type? Even if it only caters for 80ah, I'd expect that to be substantially better for longevity. I'm concerned that the charging circuit may treat the battery with lead acid AGM charge curves, instead of a more appropriate lithium chemistry charging curve. Battery capacity curves according to voltage is very different between the two chemistries. I'm aware that the alternator output on our cars are digitally controlled, unlike old style alternators that simply targeted a specified voltage at all times and varied amperage according to RPM.

Does anyone know of a way to alter the car's programming to utilize different charging chemistries that are available in other BMW lineups? From memory, my '09 N54 135i had options for both lithium and lead acid.

From what I've read, the BMS automatically compensates, so it should just be drop in.

BTW SEAT TIME RULES

I checked in bimmercode, and it allows me to select these values:

20 Ah
40 Ah AGM
46 Ah
55 Ah
70 Ah
70 Ah AGM
80 Ah
80 Ah AGM
90 Ah
90 Ah AGM
105 Ah AGM

So it does seem we can go below 90 AH AGM (stock value)?

[FTP20]

Has the OE battery weight been confirmed?

It weighs 15.6 lbs vs 58.7 lbs for the OEM Lead Acid.

I am considering the Antigravity H7/Group-94R Lithium 60Ah (18.5lbs) or 80Ah (25.5lbs) for my daily driven M2C that often sits for days at a time in cold weather.

The OE F80 Li battery might be a decent option, assuming it fits the F87.

Part $: 61.21.9.312.759
Specs: 12V 69Ah 770A/860CCA
Weight: 29.85lbs

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by eeyang92

From what I've read, the BMS automatically compensates, so it should just be drop in.

BTW SEAT TIME RULES

I checked in bimmercode, and it allows me to select these values:

20 Ah
40 Ah AGM
46 Ah
55 Ah
70 Ah
70 Ah AGM
80 Ah
80 Ah AGM
90 Ah
90 Ah AGM
105 Ah AGM

So it does seem we can go below 90 AH AGM (stock value)?

EEYANG,
Be careful, I remember adjusting my Battery level using Bimmercode.

I very quickly got some weird codes. Went back to OEM and all is well.

[SEAT TIME RULES]

Originally Posted by FTP20

Has the OE battery weight been confirmed?



I am considering the Antigravity H7/Group-94R Lithium 60Ah (18.5lbs) or 80Ah (25.5lbs) for my daily driven M2C that often sits for days at a time in cold weather.

The OE F80 Li battery might be a decent option, assuming it fits the F87.

Part $: 61.21.9.312.759
Specs: 12V 69Ah 770A/860CCA
Weight: 29.85lbs

I have the Anti Gravity H7/Group 94R-40Ah OEM Automotive Case size (directly replaces stock battery) @15 lbs.

My M2 sits in the garage for 7-10 days at a time and the battery still has 75% charge. I live North of Boston an my garage can get well below freezing ...You will be fine with the 60, or 80ah.

[eeyang92]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

EEYANG,
Be careful, I remember adjusting my Battery level using Bimmercode.

I very quickly got some weird codes. Went back to OEM and all is well.

I see, thanks for the heads up. I'll give it a shot, but otherwise leave it at OEM if it doesn't work out. Seems like you haven't had any issues so I think it should be fairly minor.

[Xspeedracer]

Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES

I'm doing the two easiest most cost effective weight reduction items.

A Anti Gravity Lithium drop in battery and the rear seat delete kit I just ordered..

About 100lbs saved...

Rear seat delete should be free just take out the parts and put them in the attic lol