10-08-2021, 07:01 PM | #243 |
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5w-40 also seems to heat up a good bit faster than the FE 0w-30 right? or am i imagining? the dealer FE stuff took forever to get to full temp.
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10-08-2021, 07:28 PM | #244 | |
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F87source7310.50 |
10-08-2021, 10:45 PM | #246 |
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Specific base stocks designed to dissipate heat as fast as possible. Esters are really good at that.
Not good if you do short commute as 300V needs high temperatures for additives to work at full potential: track. |
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10-08-2021, 10:59 PM | #247 |
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What I noticed for PPE 5w40 is it behaves pretty similarly to BMW tpt 0W30, gets to operating temperature at the same rate and stabilizes at about 94C which is the same as 0W30. This is likely due to PPE being a low viscosity 40 weight.
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10-08-2021, 11:16 PM | #248 | |
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11-24-2021, 07:38 PM | #249 | |
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I paid close attention today and my car never gets past the 200 mark, and takes a bit to get there, so I imagine that 200°F is where it's fully warm. I really wish this car had one of those high-rpm limiters like my S2000 had, and my Exige currently has, but they're pretty high-revving engines, so I wonder if it's safe to run the lower-revving N55 a bit harder, earlier. I guess I'm wondering if it's the rpm's that are important, or the power/throttle used. I usually try to stay between 2,000 rpm and 2500 rpm in normal driving, until I feel like the car is warm, but I wonder if 3,000 or even 5000 would be acceptable if it's not fully warm. Any thoughts on this matter? |
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11-24-2021, 11:04 PM | #250 |
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200 is ok. You actually want to punch it a bit if it doesn't want to go over 200. Probably you have bit too strong heat set up on HVAC that cools off coolant and with that oil.
You actually want oil to be above 212f in order to evaporate any fuel. If it doesn't, hit it hard once it gets around 200. Also, in the morning drive few miles with HVAC set up at dead cold and vent just on minimum. That will speed up coolant warm up and bcs. N55/S55 have heat exchanger, it will speed up oil warm up too. My oil temperature gauge starts also around there, bit lower, 50c. I wait until it gets to 180-200f. Then I drive more aggressively in order to get oil above 212, bcs. fuel. Now which oil? In MO where you at, it is irrelevant whether oil is 0WXX or 5WXX. I would go XW30. You actually want lower KV100 in winter bcs. that means better flow at 50f or 100f than XW40. Not by much, but still there is difference. Now, which oil? My go to oil in winter is Castrol Edge 0W30 ACEA A3. Available on Amazon, bit more expensive. Now if you are willing to do experiment, you could try Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 which is LL04. IMO it should do well in 5K interval in S55. I would do UOA with TBN and TAN analysis. If everything checks out, you have cheap, excellent oil for winter. |
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11-25-2021, 08:26 AM | #251 | |||
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Thanks for the detailed reply!! |
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11-25-2021, 11:13 PM | #252 |
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I would not run car few minutes before hitting road. I don't do that when skiing all day here in the Rockies and I start it at -30 sometimes. Reason is that your head keeps certain amount of oil and even if it doesn't, after few seconds you already have proper lubrication.
By idling your mixture is rich for prolonged period of time, washing cylinder walls, mixing more fuel with oil than necessary. Turn the car, put seatbelt, adjust seat warmers, find your song, hit the road. You will reach operating temperature faster, eliminate faster any fuel from oil and prevent more fuel mixing with oil. |
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11-26-2021, 02:24 AM | #253 | |
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But I do idle my car, sure you may get fuel dilution but coming from cars with built engines or fragile pistons, if you don't let the car warm up properly you end up experiencing premature wear and tear. I'm sure with the cast hypereutectic pistons you won't have the crazy expansion and contraction forged pistons do, but I always let it warm up to 42C (probably a few mins of idling) a bit just to ensure we aren't asking too much of the rod bearings since rpms do hit 3k when I drive otherwise 1st gear is way too slow in a 6speed if I short shift it.
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11-26-2021, 11:15 AM | #254 |
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Guys I respectfully disagree with idling. With these oils there is absolutely no need to keep idling for several minutes. It is not only introducing fuel to oil, but washing cylinder walls with basically solvent. I bet you if you do UOA after 5k idling and then 5k of not idling, in latter one you will have lower wear and oil will have higher flash point, less shear etc.
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11-26-2021, 02:24 PM | #255 | ||
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I only idle mine so the car is quicker to heat once I do have heat available. I figured with these modern oils there was no need for idle protection. Quote:
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11-26-2021, 02:45 PM | #256 | |
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With a stock engine you may be right about not idling too long.
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11-26-2021, 02:51 PM | #257 | |
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Iirc the first time I saw this in use was locally on an X5, with their X5 model.
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11-26-2021, 04:30 PM | #258 | |
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11-26-2021, 04:36 PM | #259 | |
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Contact the company and see if the'll make it happen for you.
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11-26-2021, 05:14 PM | #260 | |
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11-26-2021, 10:58 PM | #261 | ||
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Regardless that fuel is dispersed under high pressure there is more fuel in DI engines during rich phase that ends up on cylinder walls and gets washed down. BMW generally didn't have such big issues as VW/Audi had but, N/S55 are still DI engines. Than oil shear caused by fuel affects wear and tear, flash point, oxidation, name it. That is why these DI engines do much worse in city driving regime than their port brothers. I just did 5k UOA on my wife's Tiguan which is driven 90% in city. Compared to UOA I did when vehicle saw regularly hwy drive, this time it completely wrecked oil (M1 ESP 0W30), iron is high, oxidation is high etc. |
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11-26-2021, 11:04 PM | #262 | |
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12-03-2021, 08:22 AM | #264 |
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Anyone know why Quaker State 5w40 Euro Synthetic (Did Ultimate Durability change label?) is not available in the US in 5Qt jugs? That was such a great buy at Walmart for barely $20 for 5 qt jug but I haven't been able to find them in 2-3 months.
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