02-05-2023, 01:10 AM | #67 | |
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I have run Mazda OEM 75W-80, Redline MT-90, Redline MTL, and Ravenol MTF-2 all in my Mazda 6MT. They all behave exactly as you would expect from the datasheet viscosity values. The MT-90 shifts far worse than the others. Obviously all these fluids contain friction modifiers, but the behavior is dominated by the viscosity. Last edited by chris719; 02-05-2023 at 01:21 AM.. |
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02-05-2023, 02:02 AM | #68 |
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Not sure. Thicker Redline D4 improved shifting in my BMW.
Additives amd base stock still matter when it comes to slippery, especially in mechanical transmissions not ones with torque converter. I would say there is limit how thick though. MT90 was known to be thick in cold. But, was loved on track for shift quality. |
02-05-2023, 02:19 AM | #69 | |
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TopJimmy is an F8x owner who used both Redline DCTF and then tried Motul High Torque. I believe he liked both more than OEM but said only the Motul fixed his grinds during drag races. Just anecdote, it doesn’t mean much but that’s what is making me give it a chance. |
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02-05-2023, 02:23 AM | #70 | |
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However after changing my gear oil for the first time, when I touched the transmission casing it was very very hot, and that was also after letting the car sit for maybe 1-2 hours (because I had to get the car onto ramps via jacks, then do an oil change, then remove the transmission cover). So it is quite possible these gear boxes run very hot and might be putting the fluid in the upper mid - upper maximum portion of their temperature range (especially on track). So a thicker fluid might not be a bad thing, because the high temperature will cause the viscosity to drop alot, which means the thicker fluid will begin to move into a range where it offers optimal shift feel while a thinner fluid begins to get to the point where it is too thin and shear out or doesn't provide enough protection and causes more wear and tear.
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02-05-2023, 02:43 AM | #71 |
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Also one more thing chris719 where are you buying your motul high torque dctf from?
I can't find many dealers, are you getting it from motul directly?
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02-05-2023, 02:54 AM | #72 | |
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What is your method for getting the car level, ramps + jack stands? |
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02-05-2023, 03:24 AM | #73 | |
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I have four identical ramps so its as level as my garage (which is pretty level), let me post a picture: So here is what I do: 1) Put the car in 1st gear + parking brake. 2) Chock the front wheels 3) Lift the rear onto the ramps first with a jack on either side, why the rear first? Because the rear has parking brakes + the engine/transmission in first gear to keep it from rotating, the front wheels have nothing. So it is safer to have the rear up first because it won't roll off. 4) Jack the front onto the ramps The ramps will be facing opposite directions so the chocks in the ramp prevents the car from rolling forwards or backs. Then add chocks onto the ramps for extra security. Then I have 4 bmw x5 scissor jacks (I like scissor jacks because they don't sink like hydrualic jacks, and I have the x5 version because it is heavy duty and has the bmw jack pad adapter built in) that I will put into the jacking points for further security, and I put 2 jack stands under the rear subframe (surprisingly the ramps are the perfect height that my jack stands fit perfectly under and touches the subframe. When I lower the jacks it applies just enough pressure that the jack stands are stuck, but the suspension is bottomed out, so maybe under a hundred pounds on the jackstands but enough that I know itll be there if the ramps for some reason blew out. So in total I have 4 8,000 lbs rhino ramps capable of holding 32,000lbs total + 2 2 ton jack stands capable of holding 4000 lbs + 4 bmw x5 scissor jacks each capable of holding 2640 lbs each (so 10560 lbs total). Thus my setup can hold 46,560 lbs total, in other words I should be pretty safe The setup also has multiple redundancies and back ups, so if the ramps blow out (which is unlikely because 1 ramp can hold 2 m2's with weight to spare) the scissor jacks are there and the jack stands. It is also so much more stable than jack stands because the point of contact holding the car up is the tires, which is alot more surface area than the tiny little jack pads on a flat circle jack stand (to me that seems sketchy which is why I went with ramps). Then the jack stands add alot more stability as well, it all makes for a super sturdy, safe and level car support. I'll get some images of the whole setup together this summer.
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02-05-2023, 03:35 AM | #74 |
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Anyways if you are looking for something to get your car into the air, I highly recommend ramps over jack stands or even a quick jack (although the benefit of this is it is much faster to get the car up, and it has more lifting height) as the ramp solution is significantly more stable and much cheaper.
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02-05-2023, 09:04 PM | #75 | |
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02-05-2023, 09:06 PM | #76 | |
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I am in meantime, trying to purge air from brake system, and it is PITA. |
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02-05-2023, 09:57 PM | #77 |
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For ground clearance and convienience I agree (I would love to have some more clearance on my own setup). But for safety and stability - I doubt it.
I have tried jack stands before, and it doesn't feel as sturdy as on ramps, mainly because the car is held by a tiny rectangular jack pad on a small metal surface vs. the large contact patch of the tire. I've tried pushing my car hard and it will not budge on ramps with the scissor jack support, so that makes me feel pretty comfortable under the car when I have to torque the stiffening plate bolts which do require a significant amount of torque to yield them.
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02-05-2023, 09:58 PM | #78 |
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Use ISTA to actuate the DSC pump.
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02-05-2023, 10:30 PM | #79 | |
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Today I was trying to purge air out of DSC, and was getting in and out all the time while on Quick Jack, and car feels super stable. Clereance is the key, to do quickly stuff like this: |
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02-05-2023, 10:33 PM | #80 |
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Used INPA. God damn xDrive doesn’t have all options to actuate DSC as RWD.
Another issue, unlike RWD, it takes soo much fluid that I had to stop procedure as my 1ltr bottle got full from one wheel, and still wasn’t done. I put Wal Mart DOT4 fluid as in the spring I am putting Brembo so just need something for street. Starting to think whether fluid is creating a bit of softness? Never had fluid issues as I always used ATE. |
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02-05-2023, 10:52 PM | #81 | ||
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Personally I don't think fluid can cause a soft pedal, fluids are pretty incompresible.
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02-05-2023, 11:49 PM | #82 | |
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Had to disconnect rear brake lines as I was replacing rear subframe. In December was doing donuts with my daughter, hit the curb. Curb won! So, disconnected rear lines. FCP sent me wrong differential bushings as I wanted to upgrade to M3 ones. So, brake lines were disconnected for 3-4 days. I am thinking that air got into DSC. Only differences from before is that I installed stainless steel lines in mid point and rear wheels as I was there. That is something I was about to do when installing Brembo, but since mid lines are mich easier to install with subframe down, I did it know. My thinking is that lines should not have caused this as it is of opposite of what their purpose is. I flushed brakes probably 4 times actuating DSC, I flushed once simply by using pressure pump. Got bit better, but still first 1/3 of pedal is soft. Brakes are there when slammed on them. Ordered ATE to pressure flush, will see. |
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02-05-2023, 11:57 PM | #83 | |
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Did you use a pedal depressor tool to hold down the brake pedal when the lines were removed? Generally that is used to prevent air from being able to make it's way back up into the reservoir or lines. Maybe check your master cylinder to make sure the piston isn't damaged, and probably try to alternate between pressure bleeding and pedal pumping. Also if worse comes to worse you can try to reverse bleed by pumping fluid from the caliper back into the reservoir. |
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02-06-2023, 12:04 AM | #84 | |
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Will try to flush more. If it doesn’t do it, I might just go ahead with Brembo project and slap M3 MC as recommended and see. |
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02-10-2023, 09:52 PM | #85 | |
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Drives: 2018 M2 6MT
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https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...6#post29808856 For my transmission with 34,600 mi (55,700 km), I'd say the there's a subtle difference with the new fluid. I do think it's more than placebo effect, but only just. I'm so familiar with the transmission feel that I notice a difference. Someone else who might jump in the car without close familiarity with it wouldn't say a thing about it. Now that I've been driving the car for a week on the new fluid, the differences I notice are:
In all, the drain and fill was a straightforward process and the fluid was relatively cheap. The improvements to the shifting, though small, are worth it to me. I'll be interested to see how long the improved feel remains on the OEM fluid. Currently, my intention is to perform another fluid swap in 30k miles (48K km). Last edited by jefe2000; 02-10-2023 at 11:06 PM.. Reason: Fix quote |
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02-10-2023, 10:45 PM | #86 | |
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The only problem is that the stock fluid doesn't seem to hold the better shift feel for a long time, it seems to degrade fast.
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02-13-2023, 06:30 AM | #87 | |
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Good jack stands or a quick jack will last forever and 100% car is not going anywhere unless you have an earth quake. I do always stick the wheels or something else underneath as a backup tho just in case no matter what method. |
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02-13-2023, 10:10 AM | #88 | |
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With the quick jack and or jack stands, are you confident with pushing the car as hard as you can? Because with my setup I'm absolutely confident it's not going anywhere and I've tested that and it's not moving an inch, it's not even rocking an inch. A metal on metal jack pad adapter pad that is a couple square inches in diameter going onto a plastic jack isn't really my idea of stable. |
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