[specracer]

Has anyone here actually made the change to a low dust ceramic pad? If yes, what pad was it? I called both FCP Euro, and Pelican (month or 2 ago) with my vin for fitment, and neither had a suggestion. Ive read here the calipers are the same as an M2 Comp, but are they?

And yes, Im fully aware of the step backwards in performance, and they can NOT be used on track.

UPDATE In post 15

[chris719]

Originally Posted by specracer

Has anyone here actually made the change to a low dust ceramic pad? If yes, what pad was it? I called both FCP Euro, and Pelican (month or 2 ago) with my vin for fitment, and neither had a suggestion. Ive read here the calipers are the same as an M2 Comp, but are they?

And yes, Im fully aware of the step backwards in performance, and they can NOT be used on track.

Steel brakes are the same other than color. I'm not sure about ceramic options though.

[specracer]

Your suggesting that for sure the M2 comp brakes are the same caliper (and pad)? Surprised that FCP / Pelican would not know this?

Originally Posted by chris719

Steel brakes are the same other than color. I'm not sure about ceramic options though.

[Piets94]

The red M Performance calipers are the same as the grey ones, just colour difference. Aftermarket pad selection would be the exact same.

I believe the red brakes package came with slightly more aggressive sport pads from factory however.

[Wah]

You need pads for the M2C 2NH big brake kit. The stock M2C brakes are different I think. I found these after a search but I haven't tried them. Been waiting for someone else to confirm.

Hawk HB828Z.760
Hawk HB193Z.670

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Wah

You need pads for the M2C 2NH big brake kit. The stock M2C brakes are different I think. I found these after a search but I haven't tried them. Been waiting for someone else to confirm.

Hawk HB828Z.760
Hawk HB193Z.670

2NH is stock in US, the blue brakes are ROW. So yes, 2NH listings.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by Piets94

The red M Performance calipers are the same as the grey ones, just colour difference. Aftermarket pad selection would be the exact same.

I believe the red brakes package came with slightly more aggressive sport pads from factory however.

Nope, exact same pads.

https://parts.bmwnorthwest.com/p/BMW...112284869.html

The Red M Performance kit if purchased separately seems to come with a different pad part number, but I don't think the CS cars use it as far as I can tell. The "sport" 34112284465 part number is listed as for F10 M5 and no longer available.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...497066&page=13

[chris719]

Originally Posted by specracer

Your suggesting that for sure the M2 comp brakes are the same caliper (and pad)? Surprised that FCP / Pelican would not know this?

They are for sure the same, but the listing must say 2NH.

I have not confirmed the part numbers, but this site lists them for M2C incl. CS, so I assume 2NH, but you need to verify:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-seri...mic+Brake+Pads

also supposedly low dust:

https://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-seri...521+Brake+Pads

I've bought from this vendor before and they were great, but I have not ever used the Hawk Ceramic pads nor the Carbotech 1521, so I can't vouch for them.

I am pretty sure those are the right pads for the red brakes because when I put in the info for a F80 M3 (blue brakes), the prices are different.

[RocketBoots]

try powerstop or akebono ceramic pads. they work well with very little dust.

[CSBM5]

Dave Z has a nice section listing a range of pads for the M2C/CS 2NH brakes including a useful note about the factory wrap-around shims on the rear pads: https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...th=3_7079_8092

[specracer]

Thanks all, will be making some phone calls on Monday.

[VisualEcho]

One of the reasons I'm holding off on the 2NH BBK is because there are no decent ceramic pads available, so if you find some, certainly let us know. At present I have an OG M2 with Akebono pads, and couldn't be happier with the performance/silence/low-dust.

[jbse39]

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

try powerstop or akebono ceramic pads. they work well with very little dust.

I will probably switch out the stock pads with Powerstop. I tried them on my wife's Cayennes which has just as bad brake dust problem and I can go months without washing the wheels with Powerstop pads.

I am not sure Akebono makes pads for 2NH brakes, do they?

John

[DCC]

My 1st choice would be Akebono Euro Ceramics, followed close by Posi Quiet Ceramics.
But after inquiring with Dave Z, looks like we are not going to get a ceramic option for the 2NH.
The best compromise would be the Semi Metallic compounds from Posi Quiet.
I dont drive my CS enough at the moment to let the dust bother me.
But it sure would be nice to know there would be options out there.

[specracer]

UPDATE
I now have Hawk ceramic pads on our CS. I was able to confirm, via a dealer, that the M2C and CS have the same BMW pad part numbers. Then Dave Zeckhausen was very helpful and sent the dimensions of the C pads, and I pulled the pads and measured. Looked good, and I ordered a set. One note, as mentioned on his site, it is best to swap over the backing shim off the OEM rear pad (I did this)

Here is a link to Zeckhausen, M2 C pads. Top of the page explains the shim

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...th=3_7079_8092

For sure less dust, after 50 or so miles. Car stops fine, but with less initial "bite", but plenty of stopping power.

[M3R1]

Originally Posted by specracer

UPDATE
I now have Hawk ceramic pads on our CS. I was able to confirm, via a dealer, that the M2C and CS have the same BMW pad part numbers. Then Dave Zeckhausen was very helpful and sent the dimensions of the C pads, and I pulled the pads and measured. Looked good, and I ordered a set. One note, as mentioned on his site, it is best to swap over the backing shim off the OEM rear pad (I did this)

Here is a link to Zeckhausen, M2 C pads. Top of the page explains the shim

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/i...th=3_7079_8092

For sure less dust, after 50 or so miles. Car stops fine, but with less initial "bite", but plenty of stopping power.

Are the Hawk pads in the link attached the ones you are running?

63-443-1648
63-443-0810

[specracer]

Yes, and sorry I should have provided that.

Also just an FYI to any DIYer's, you will need a large Hex socket as the front calipers need to come off to get the pads out. Torque spec I was told is 80 lbsft. The rears are more standard, (tap out the 2 sliders, and the Brembo spring)

Originally Posted by M3R1

Are the Hawk pads in the link attached the ones you are running?

63-443-1648
63-443-0810

[M3R1]

Originally Posted by specracer

Yes, and sorry I should have provided that.

Also just an FYI to any DIYer's, you will need a large torx socket (T60 if I recall) as the front calipers need to come off to get the pads out. Torque spec I was told is 80 lbsft. The rears are more standard, (tap out the 2 sliders, and the Brembo spring)

I ordered a set of Carbotech 1521's. I will definitely start another thread with my thoughts. My main objective is to keep most of the stopping power and have a big reduction in dust. I will say my OEM pads have an initial bite that is frankly a little too aggressive. This is my weekend toy (no track) and it takes a conscious effort to be smooth at really low speeds.

[sdhotwn]

Originally Posted by specracer

Yes, and sorry I should have provided that.

Also just an FYI to any DIYer's, you will need a large torx socket (T60 if I recall) as the front calipers need to come off to get the pads out. Torque spec I was told is 80 lbsft. The rears are more standard, (tap out the 2 sliders, and the Brembo spring)

You are not supposed to pull those torx bolts (the ones in the painted parted of the caliper). It should be the two bolts on the rear side, which are a standard hex. I made the same mistake on the first time I did it. The spec for that torx head cap screw in the painted caliper is 85 ft-lb.

[sdhotwn]

Originally Posted by M3R1

I ordered a set of Carbotech 1521's. I will definitely start another thread with my thoughts. My main objective is to keep most of the stopping power and have a big reduction in dust. I will say my OEM pads have an initial bite that is frankly a little too aggressive. This is my weekend toy (no track) and it takes a conscious effort to be smooth at really low speeds.

I've been on the RSL29 Pagid Yellows now for a bit. Interesting pads. They clunk something fierce because the rears have a lot of clearance in the calipers. The fronts were so tight I had to file them lightly to fit them. That said, the overall braking has been good. They have a nice linear feel and work well cold. Brake dust has actually not been too bad on the street so far. Next to no squealing either since I used the Permatex ceramic ultra lubricant. After a track day they grind and make horrible noises for a while until the pad transfer wears off though.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by M3R1

I ordered a set of Carbotech 1521's. I will definitely start another thread with my thoughts. My main objective is to keep most of the stopping power and have a big reduction in dust. I will say my OEM pads have an initial bite that is frankly a little too aggressive. This is my weekend toy (no track) and it takes a conscious effort to be smooth at really low speeds.

Yes, the brake pedal feel on the steel setup is a negative as far as I am concerned. It's very overboosted and the feel changes with temperature, even in street driving. Curious to see how you make out with the 1521s. I will probably try Porterfield R4-S at some point.

[specracer]

I have been working on a couple cars recently and obviously not remembering things correctly. Thank you for the correction, and I updated my post. Indeed it's a hex, not Torx.

On your yellows, consider swapping over the OEM backer shim. When installing the Hawks, they too were loose in the caliper. Added the shim and it took up that space. I would also add that Padgid yellows are a great track /street pad. In a different car that I had tracked a few times, I went through 3 other pads, before the yellows, and the yellows and Girodisc rotors were the only combo that survived a trackday

Originally Posted by sdhotwn

You are not supposed to pull those torx bolts (the ones in the painted parted of the caliper). It should be the two bolts on the rear side, which are a standard hex. I made the same mistake on the first time I did it. The spec for that torx head cap screw in the painted caliper is 85 ft-lb.