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      01-28-2019, 07:54 PM   #67
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In south florida I try to let it idle for a minute before slowly taking off and shifting before 3k RPM. On a recent trip to Tennessee I stayed in a cabin on a mountain in 30* temps and let it idle for about 15min. Needle still hadn't budged by the time I finally took off.
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      01-29-2019, 03:48 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryo91 View Post
Warm up the engine

Let me know how unambiguous that is by telling me what temperature "warm up" is
The user manual also gives guidance... look to see how it describes 'cold', 'normal' and 'hot' engine temperatures.

The reading of the complete sentence I quoted, gives the implied meaning. Not to sit around idling to get heat into the engine, whatever any individual interpretation of what "warm up" could be.

Quote:
Do not warm up the engine with the car at a standstill, it is preferable to set off straight away, driving at moderate engine speeds.
Sitting around for five to ten minutes on idle, is not for the engine's benefit, more for the user, whatever their motives or reasons.
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      01-29-2019, 04:32 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
Transmission oil also has to warm up, again benefits from a bit of work.

My own car, the first couple of changes can be less smooth, if I don't allow a few extra seconds before moving off, when the temperature is low, (~0C). I have the benefit of driving up a lane for about 1/4 mile before the highway. The gearbox is silky smooth by the time I pull onto the highway, even at low winter temperatures.
Yea. I always warm it up for about 3 mins. Hate that cold start drive off feel especially when the transmission fluid is cold
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      01-29-2019, 07:11 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Dude I also encounter similar shifting issue. The resistance I understand. But shifting 1st to 2nd make this weird winding noise, no grinding. If I wait in neutral for 1 seconds before completing the shift it shift normal that I am not worried.

But we just hit our firsts -20c of the year and my first winter with this car and my tranny started doing a new noise. It literally has a metal cracking when shifting and goes away after 5 mins of driving.

I aswell hope our transmissions don't die early. I replaced the fluid with OE spec maybe I should have listened to the threads and get the Redline D6 ATF stuff... IDK.

I think I'll just let it go and see how it goes.

Here's the noise

IIRC that is a Getrag in the 335is. In my experience, Getrags are very stiff when cold and produce rattling/whine with some clicking noise when engaging the clutch; your location in Canada only compounds the problem. If the Getrag in your 335is is anything like the G280/5.50 and 5.51 in my E28 and E34, they are very finnicky with fluid selection, so if informed/experienced individuals are getting better results with Redline D6 ATF, it could be worth it. There will be noise and stiffness, but it might shorten the duration and severity of both.

As for the threat question, on cold starts I crank the engine, let the rpms drop to the set idle speed (about 5-15 seconds depending on ambient temps) and then drive off. I want the transmission to get up to temps along with the engine and differential before proceeding to hit higher rpms.
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      01-29-2019, 07:19 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by de Witt View Post
IIRC that is a Getrag in the 335is. In my experience, Getrags are very stiff when cold and produce rattling/whine with some clicking noise when engaging the clutch; your location in Canada only compounds the problem. If the Getrag in your 335is is anything like the G280/5.50 and 5.51 in my E28 and E34, they are very finnicky with fluid selection, so if informed/experienced individuals are getting better results with Redline D6 ATF, it could be worth it. There will be noise and stiffness, but it might shorten the duration and severity of both.

As for the threat question, on cold starts I crank the engine, let the rpms drop to the set idle speed (about 5-15 seconds depending on ambient temps) and then drive off. I want the transmission to get up to temps along with the engine and differential before proceeding to hit higher rpms.
Thanks for the reply. Honestly I don't care for the noise as long as it doesn't cause bad premature wear... but the metal clicking noises that sounds like in the fork area and not inside the transmission itself so Shouldn't cause to much damage I think.
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      01-29-2019, 08:18 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
The user manual also gives guidance... look to see how it describes 'cold', 'normal' and 'hot' engine temperatures.

The reading of the complete sentence I quoted, gives the implied meaning. Not to sit around idling to get heat into the engine, whatever any individual interpretation of what "warm up" could be.



Sitting around for five to ten minutes on idle, is not for the engine's benefit, more for the user, whatever their motives or reasons.
I agree my friend, the longest I'll wait is about 2.5 minutes.


Especially with these cold temperatures i dont like a rough 1->2 shift
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      01-30-2019, 05:32 AM   #73
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It's - 28 in Chicago, wonder if I can start and drive away without warning it up hahaha
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      01-30-2019, 07:37 AM   #74
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I push it down a hill with it off so oil gets circulated before I start it.
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      01-30-2019, 07:51 AM   #75
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I typically warm up my car during winter. Here's why.

Its typically quite cold in winter here. And it may have snowed overnight, meaning that there is snow and ice on all the glass surfaces. If I get in, start, and drive away from cold, I will absolutely find that the windshield cleaner fluid will freeze on the windshield, even though its rated for -45C and my X5 has a heated sprayer. Also, the back glass is likely still mostly or partially fogged over, obscuring visibility behind. Similarly, the windshield itself, side mirrors and side windows are likely to still have some ice outside and fogging inside - even if I have cleared them carefully with a good snow brush / scraper. Warming up the vehicle allows the engine to heat to the point where the HVAC system can blow air that is warm enough to warm the windshield which keeps windshield cleaner fluid from freezing, and to fully defog the windshield and side glasses. And for the rear defogger / mirror heating to properly clear those surfaces.

I also take time to clear the snow off the roof; my snow brush telescopes so I can reach across the top of the X5. I've seen other SUV drivers who didn't do that stop suddenly, only to have the blanket of snow on the roof form an avalanche down over the windshield, completely blinding the (idiot) driver.

As I've noted, I do see guys who don't bother to do any of this. In my view they are taking a big risk driving while trying to see through a partially obscured windshield and side windows. I don't want to be that guy. Should they be involved in an accident, they may incur additional legal liabilities if the other party can show that the other guy's windows were not cleared fully. Its also a good idea to take the time to brush off your headlights and brake lights at the rear, for obvious reasons.

So. Warming up the car in winter is a safety measure that ensures that the driver has optimal visibility to drive. You also end up performing a full external inspection of the vehicle before driving, in the process. Safety first.
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      01-30-2019, 11:07 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huz-Z View Post
So. Warming up the car in winter is a safety measure that ensures that the driver has optimal visibility to drive. You also end up performing a full external inspection of the vehicle before driving, in the process. Safety first.
I warm my car wth an electric fan heater. . 30 minutes at about -5C and if is all defrosted, screens clear, cabin warm.

Engine, transmission and diff’, etc., all warm quicker on the move.
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      01-30-2019, 11:57 AM   #77
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S63tu seems to take FOREVER to get up to temp. I leave it in Effecient mode and drive easy until it hits the mark.
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      01-31-2019, 12:47 PM   #78
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I live in Chicago and the high today is around-15 ! I never have any problems turning on my car in the mornings but yesterday and today I hit the push start button a few times before it started. Is it ok to drive the car (2011 bmw 328i) in this temperatures? Will it effect the water pump ? I’m just curious what you guys think
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      01-31-2019, 01:46 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PshhhhhMW View Post
Personally I just let it get to idle after a minute then go.
Been doing same for years....summer or 40 below...and never bother with block heaters...I take it easy till warm....

There is a caveat, if the thing is covered in snow/ice, then yes...we let it warm up...and clear the thing once its started to melt.
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      01-31-2019, 07:46 PM   #80
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I am not sure, was it already quoted. This is from G01 manual.
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      02-01-2019, 09:44 PM   #81
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Never

Because im nearly late for work every morning lol
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      02-02-2019, 04:38 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdldtc View Post
Never

Because im nearly late for work every morning lol
^^
+1
Also, my exhaust is so fucking loud that I try to get out of my neighborhood as quickly as possible so my neighbors don't completely hate me.

Basically start the car in 1st with the clutch in and immediately pull out of the garage and down the street.
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      02-02-2019, 06:17 PM   #83
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Just start and drive away. Aside from it being completely unnecessary, who has time to just sit there for several minutes every time you get in your car?
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      02-03-2019, 03:43 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco44 View Post
Once the idle speed drops after a cold start (usually about 20 secs or so), I drive away, albeit slowly at first.
Pretty much this. It takes only 20 seconds in my CLS (I can tell because the exhaust stops blaring), but roughly a minute in my 528i.
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      02-03-2019, 03:53 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWER View Post
S63tu seems to take FOREVER to get up to temp. I leave it in Effecient mode and drive easy until it hits the mark.
My S54 was like that, took forever. S65 has been much faster.
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      02-03-2019, 02:50 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWER View Post
S63tu seems to take FOREVER to get up to temp. I leave it in Effecient mode and drive easy until it hits the mark.
Yeah it's a super big block with alot of fluids to warm up, I love the s63tu lol.
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      02-03-2019, 03:50 PM   #87
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Yes
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      02-04-2019, 09:21 AM   #88
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As soon as the engine is started, I drive from the garage, exit said car to close garage door (I know, fail), then immediately redline the car constantly for the first 3 minutes to get all the fluids up to operating temp.

On the way home I do the same so all of the fluids stay hot. Park in the garage and hope my house doesn’t catch on fire.


But seriously, I just drive moderately until the oil temps are within reason and get on it.
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Also our E90 330 and 325 will soon have some sort of boost. So there is actually more of a chance to get more hp out of a 330 then a 335 in my opinion
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