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M2 Technical Topics > Cosmetic Modifications > HELP: M2C mirror retrofit on pre-lci f87 M2

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      04-01-2019, 11:10 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcon157 View Post
Did you use any pry tools to get the speaker housing off, or just your finger tips?

The bavsound video shows the process to pop off the whole speaker unit, but doesn't detail how to remove just the thin mesh cover. Do you have any tips before I go yanking on this thing?
I used my fingers, and did take out the entire speaker housing. I separated the speaker from the housing for better access to the area, and to get everything clear.

The thin mesh came off when I did the drivers side, and was a pain to keep snapped back in, when I tried putting it all back together. I would recommend not taking that out, if it doesn't fall out.
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      04-01-2019, 01:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qnet View Post
I used my fingers, and did take out the entire speaker housing. I separated the speaker from the housing for better access to the area, and to get everything clear.

The thin mesh came off when I did the drivers side, and was a pain to keep snapped back in, when I tried putting it all back together. I would recommend not taking that out, if it doesn't fall out.
Well I gave it a shot on my M235 first just to see how it went. As you mentioned, the thin mesh popped off in the process and it was a pain to snap back on correctly. I ended up breaking a single tab off the backside when reinstalling. It doesn't seem to affect the stability of it but I'm sure glad I used the 235 as the guinea pig, not the M2.

I decided to remove four of the five Torx (left the Torx located on outer underside of door). This enabled me to pull away just the area of the door card that surrounds that speaker corner, which gave me room to easily manipulate the speaker without forcing anything. For anyone doing this in the future, this only adds 5 minutes to the process but makes the speaker removal a hell of a lot easier (at least for me).

Thanks to everyone on this thread for the helpful information
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      04-15-2019, 10:56 AM   #25
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I'm about to do the mirror conversion.

For all who have done it, did you reuse the 6 screws holding the original mirrors?
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      04-15-2019, 12:25 PM   #26
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Given the cost of the screws (and how they are self tapping) it's probably best not to use them again on the new mirrors.

Should be perfectly okay to keep using them on the original mirrors though, so don't throw them away.

HTH
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      04-17-2019, 10:09 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das_m2 View Post
it's possible.

Slide the mesh speaker housing up and backwards. This will reveal the speaker. The speaker has 2 plastic clips. One at the top corner which easily pops out. The 2nd is tricky. You need to push down at an angle into the door jam to release it. Once that's off, you can access 2 of 3 bolts. To access the 3rd, pull on the inner corner of the window rubber trim. It has a rubber plug holding it in place. Be patient with the 2nd speaker clip. It's the hardest step.
Thank you so much for this. The window tint guy scratched my tweeter housings when trying to "pop" them off. I have had new ones for a year+ now but didn't feel like taking off the door cards.

Reading this I was able to pull the housing off very easily, almost too easy. Perhaps b/c they had been previously removed?

Either way, it took more time for me to remove the housings off the new speakers than remove the old ones and reinstall.
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      04-17-2019, 11:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omasou View Post
Thank you so much for this. The window tint guy scratched my tweeter housings when trying to "pop" them off. I have had new ones for a year+ now but didn't feel like taking off the door cards.

Reading this I was able to pull the housing off very easily, almost too easy. Perhaps b/c they had been previously removed?

Either way, it took more time for me to remove the housings off the new speakers than remove the old ones and reinstall.

Glad I could assist another member with this install. Let's see the end result.
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      07-02-2019, 05:46 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das_m2 View Post
Yes, you do. Righty tighty, lefty loosey. If you can do that, you can remove any screw or bolt. The hardest part is popping plastic clips that hold the door card in place. It feels and sounds as if something broke, but that's normal for popping clips. Just be patient, talk to it, caress it a little bit, and you'll get the cards to come out. I absolutely hate paying for easy shit like this.

I just hit up a local shop to see if they had a mode carbon front lip in stock for me to physically come get. They sent me an invoice with labor installed. The lip is like $1250 and the total came to $1600 something. $400 or more to install a front lip? What kind of crazy math is that? How does installing a lip equate to $400 in labor?
Hi Das , i really need your help on this one . My mirror units for my og m2 arrived and when i was about to install them , i noticed that there was no place to put the screw ! it was just a hole !!! Did you had the same issues?
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      07-04-2019, 11:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmercs View Post
Hi Das , i really need your help on this one . My mirror units for my og m2 arrived and when i was about to install them , i noticed that there was no place to put the screw ! it was just a hole !!! Did you had the same issues?
You have to use the original screws that came off your old mirror assemblies and run them into those holes. They are self-tapping. Someone mentioned (it may have been das_m2) that they looked it up, and bought new screws to use. That's not a bad idea, but you can use the old screws. Just make sure you have the assemblies lined up and pressed against the door correctly.

When you carefully run the screws in, they will cut into the material and pull the mirror assemblies in.
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      07-05-2019, 11:36 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qnet View Post
You have to use the original screws that came off your old mirror assemblies and run them into those holes. They are self-tapping. Someone mentioned (it may have been das_m2) that they looked it up, and bought new screws to use. That's not a bad idea, but you can use the old screws. Just make sure you have the assemblies lined up and pressed against the door correctly.

When you carefully run the screws in, they will cut into the material and pull the mirror assemblies in.

^^^^ what he said^^^^

Excuse my delayed response. Make sure you feel the mirror housings for any play before putting everything back together.
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      09-10-2019, 09:42 AM   #32
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So I joined the club over the weekend been following thread and finally pulled the trigger. Install was super easy. In another thread someone recommended not removing door panel completely. Just remove 3 of the 5 screws from panel and pull out from speaker corner. Super easy doing it that way and nothing was damaged. Took about a little over an hour to do. I had to run to gas station to get more beer lol. Sorry for crappie pick in advance.
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      12-06-2023, 08:57 PM   #33
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OK, so for those of you that are a bit OCD like myself that prefer DIY jobs spelled out specifically step by step, this post is for you.

Tools needed:
- torx T-20
- torx T-30
- trim removal tool
- 14mm ratchet
- rubber mallet
- Someone to help you or a few things to prop the door panel up on (unless you want to fully remove it)


No need to code or disconnect the battery for this job.

1. Roll down the window.

2. Remove the 2 T-20 torx screws from the bottom of the door panel.

3. Remove the plastic behind the silver pull handle by lifting up on one edge with your trim tool.

4. Remove the single T-20 torx screw behind it.

5. Remove the carbon fiber door handle trim by looking underneath it for the small slot to put your trim tool and popping that out. Continue pulling from the bottom up until it pops off.

6. Remove the 2 T-20 torx screws behind it.

7. Slide your trim tool in between the door and the bottom of the door panel and force one of the clips free. Once you get a little free space use your fingers to tug-tug-tug (hard) to get the bottom clips to pop free, then work your way up both sides. This is one of the hardest steps as the door panel just doesn't want to come off...until it does.

8. Prop the front and rear of the door panel up on your props, or remove the wires+clips holding it on and remove it completely (not necessary), your choice.

9. Slide the speaker cover up and away from the tweeter and foam.

10. Hold the foam/tweeter combo on the sides and wiggle until the 2 clips free themselves then lay it out of the way, or disconnect via the blue connector (your choice). Pulling on the blue connector is easy and it gets the tweeter out of your way.

11. The rubber that's at the door corner is hiding the 3rd screw for the mirror base, so pull it up from the bottom until the little grommet pops out.

12. Remove the mirror main power clip.

13. Have someone hold the mirror and remove the 3 larger silver T-30 screws via a T-30 torx or a 14mm ratchet.

14. Once the mirror is off, take one of the T-30 screws you just removed and hand-start it (with your torx screwdriver) in each of the 3 self-tapping metal prongs on the new mirror. Once it's hand started then you can use the 14mm ratchet on it to make it easier to tap. Tap it all the way down, it won't come out the other side, and the shavings go inside. And don't worry about buying new screws to do this, the OE screws are MUCH harder than the soft metal they are going into, so you won't damage the screw doing this.

15. Install the new mirror top first making sure the mirror fits UNDER the rubber on the top. I used my trim tool to make this go easier, but you can use your fingers as well.

16. Install the 3 T-30 torx screws with either the torx head or the ratchet, either will work fine. Tighten good, but don't go crazy on them.

17. Put the rubber back in place from step 11 making sure the rubber grommet gets snapped in. I used my rubber mallet lightly to snap it in.

18. Install the speaker cover onto the foam/tweeter assembly by sliding it downwards. Just fiddle with this until it slides on, don't force it.

19. Fiddle that assembly back on via the 2 clips on the back. Again, fiddle it, don't force it. If you removed it entirely make sure to reinstall the little blue connector.

20. Install the door lock stalk back through the hole in the door panel first, then the closest door panel clips to it to keep it aligned.

21. Then go to the speaker side of the top of the door panel and get it all clipped in place. You can do these by hand or use the rubber mallet.

22. Once that is done, work your way around with the rubber mallet popping the clips into place.

The rest will be pretty obvious, just reinstall like you uninstalled earlier.

Hope this helps someone in the future.
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