[boostm3]

Originally Posted by SeanWRT

OP, thanks for sharing your Dyno graphs, which I have attached below.

The way I look at them:
Dinan Sport Tuner:
Max WHP: 367@5500
Max WTQ: 408@2800
Stock:
Max WHP: 349@5750
Max WTQ: 367@2300

In this sense, the gain in maximum horsepower is 18WHP.

To be precise, 6400rpm is where gain peaks at 29WHP, but it does not mean the tune is making 29WHP peak power than stock.

That being said, there are indeed significant gains in power "under the curve" where it really matters for you to enjoy.

30WHP gains up top can't be had without 2~3psi boost there. Glad to know our turbo is capable of flowing that much more at top end. If you have data log, check out how IAT is climbing and if timing is pulling there. Anyway be cautious when climate gets warm though.

In those posted plots, I dont like whats going on between 5600 rpms and 6200 rpms.. There's a dip of almost 40 hp there which could be the ecu pulling timing due to knock. Hard to tell without being able to see AFRs or IATs, or knock sensor results, but Im not crazy about it. Other than that the plots look good.

[Blurbo311]

Originally Posted by boostm3

In those posted plots, I dont like whats going on between 5600 rpms and 6200 rpms.. There's a dip of almost 40 hp there which could be the ecu pulling timing due to knock. Hard to tell without being able to see AFRs or IATs, or knock sensor results, but Im not crazy about it. Other than that the plots look good.

I have a quick question about the term 'pulling timing'. Its not a term I was familiar with before buying the M2. Does it mean that the car is sensing too much heat/boost (something else?) and it restricts itself?

If that's the case, what's the worst part about 'pulling timing'? Does it actually hurt the car or does it just restrict it (cuts gas, limits rpms, etc.)?

Mainly I just want to make sure I'm interpreting what I'm reading correctly. I also want to make sure I don't hurt my car. When the temps were well above 100 here (as high as 118 since I bought the M2) the car would lose steam above 6000 rpm, being my first turbo car, I figured that was the penalty for all the low end power. After temps cooled, I realized the M2 will run pretty hard to redline in stock form, just not when its 100 degrees. Was I likely 'pulling timing' in the heat?

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by Blurbo311

I have a quick question about the term 'pulling timing'. Its not a term I was familiar with before buying the M2. Does it mean that the car is sensing too much heat/boost (something else?) and it restricts itself?

If that's the case, what's the worst part about 'pulling timing'? Does it actually hurt the car or does it just restrict it (cuts gas, limits rpms, etc.)?

Mainly I just want to make sure I'm interpreting what I'm reading correctly. I also want to make sure I don't hurt my car. When the temps were well above 100 here (as high as 118 since I bought the M2) the car would lose steam above 6000 rpm, being my first turbo car, I figured that was the penalty for all the low end power. After temps cooled, I realized the M2 will run pretty hard to redline in stock form, just not when its 100 degrees. Was I likely 'pulling timing' in the heat?

Actually, instead of hurting your car, its PROTECTING your engine. The very purpose of the ecu pulling timing (retarding spark advance) is to prevent incipient or actual knock, which DOES hurt the engine. . The byproduct of the ecu pulling timing is lost power. Its not a good situation to be in, as with proper tuning, there should be no danger of knock, and therefore, no need for the ecu to retard timing as a protective measure. Running lean, higher IAT (Intake Air Temperature ), too much boost, and insufficient octane are 3 of the most common causes of engine knock which is precipitated by an inappropriate tune for the conditions.

It doesnt surprise me that the Sport Tuner produces this under some conditions since its simply a boost controller and doesnt attempt to deal with the other sensor values that the more comprehensive systems by Dinan and others inculcate into their software releases.

[Blurbo311]

Originally Posted by Blurbo311

I have a quick question about the term 'pulling timing'. Its not a term I was familiar with before buying the M2. Does it mean that the car is sensing too much heat/boost (something else?) and it restricts itself?

If that's the case, what's the worst part about 'pulling timing'? Does it actually hurt the car or does it just restrict it (cuts gas, limits rpms, etc.)?

Mainly I just want to make sure I'm interpreting what I'm reading correctly. I also want to make sure I don't hurt my car. When the temps were well above 100 here (as high as 118 since I bought the M2) the car would lose steam above 6000 rpm, being my first turbo car, I figured that was the penalty for all the low end power. After temps cooled, I realized the M2 will run pretty hard to redline in stock form, just not when its 100 degrees. Was I likely 'pulling timing' in the heat?

Originally Posted by boostm3

Actually, instead of hurting your car, its PROTECTING your engine. The very purpose of the ecu pulling timing (retarding spark advance) is to prevent incipient or actual knock, which DOES hurt the engine. . The byproduct of the ecu pulling timing is lost power. Its not a good situation to be in, as with proper tuning, there should be no danger of knock, and therefore, no need for the ecu to retard timing as a protective measure. Running lean, higher IAT (Intake Air Temperature ), too much boost, and insufficient octane are 3 of the most common causes of engine knock which is precipitated by an inappropriate tune for the conditions.

It doesnt surprise me that the Sport Tuner produces this under some conditions since its simply a boost controller and doesnt attempt to deal with the other sensor values that the more comprehensive systems by Dinan and others inculcate into their software releases.

Thanks for the reply!

That is more or less what I was understanding but wanted to make sure. I have a Fabspeed SC installed and I have a Dinan Sport Tuner, FMIC, and chargepipe coming for Christmas. I don't plan to go anything more, I just want some extra performance without breaking the bank and while maintaining drivability and reliability close to stock. I think I'll be ok but will keep an eye on things especially once the weather starts to heat up in a few months.

Do you think I was pulling timing in my example above? I was completely stock but it was over 110 degrees.

Also, I've heard several people say they don't want to tune (this includes the Dinan Sport Tuner boost controller) for fear of blowing their engine. With the current technology, and with how proven the N55 is, I doubt 3-4 extra PSI is going to hurt the engine at all. Right?

[boostm3]

Originally Posted by Blurbo311

Thanks for the reply!

That is more or less what I was understanding but wanted to make sure. I have a Fabspeed SC installed and I have a Dinan Sport Tuner, FMIC, and chargepipe coming for Christmas. I don't plan to go anything more, I just want some extra performance without breaking the bank and while maintaining drivability and reliability close to stock. I think I'll be ok but will keep an eye on things especially once the weather starts to heat up in a few months.

Do you think I was pulling timing in my example above? I was completely stock but it was over 110 degrees.

Also, I've heard several people say they don't want to tune (this includes the Dinan Sport Tuner boost controller) for fear of blowing their engine. With the current technology, and with how proven the N55 is, I doubt 3-4 extra PSI is going to hurt the engine at all. Right?

Hard to tell, however, your perceived loss of power in the upper power band could be the result of the exceedingly high IATs (intake air temperatures).. Turbo and supercharged cars underperform in these conditions as hot air is less dense air, hence less O2 in the mixture. This is normal. Less O2, less Fuel. So your lack of upper end performance doesnt necessarily have to be the direct result of knock. Although knock is often the engine's response to these conditions..

The Sport Tuner is NOT a comprehensive product. Its fun for non track use mainly if you have 93 octane gas and dont run it hard in high temperatures..The difference between the Sport TUner and the other more expensive products is that with the latter, you get relatively complete software fix in addition to the piggyback Dinan sells to deal with these potential deleterious conditions.. Your sport tuner relies on the stock software to control timing and air fuel ratios. However the stock program was written for stock boost levels.. The more expensive and comprehensive Dinan products include software designed to alter the timing and AFRs to match the altered boost levels..

Will your ST destroy your engine? Probably not, but there's a reason Dinan doesnt offer their standard warranty with it! In any event, take it easy in the heat, especially if you run on < 93 octane.

[Dogs63]

Originally Posted by auf Deutsch

And bring your driving shoes. You should get a feel for it in comparison to your highly modded M235i.

This was your last post. What ever happened to “Dinan Stage 4”?

[M Fifty]

"We did about a thousand dyno runs today at Fabspeed. Here are the results: (GRAPHS TO FOLLOW)"

That would have been an epically long day.

But, if you can conduct a run in under 2 minutes and someone keeps topping off the tank you might manage it in somewhere between 24 and 33 hours without stopping...

[Blurbo311]

Ok, I installed the Dinan Sport Tuner and I can feel the difference in power, but it's not a night a day difference.

The app stinks though, unless I'm an idiot. I can't get to the screen with the boost monitoring. I can only see 3 different screens, the one where you choose the Dinan Sport Tuner in Bluetooth, then the screen where you select your car type, and then the screen where you choose sport, race, etc.

How do i see the boost???

Thanks.

[David1]

The updated app no longer shows boost. Just two screens to select the engine and boost increase. The boost gauge on the app didn't work anyways.

[izzyM2]

Originally Posted by David1

The updated app no longer shows boost. Just two screens to select the engine and boost increase. The boost gauge on the app didn't work anyways.

Android app still shows boost gauge.

[Mr 2]

It's noticeably faster for me. Well maybe not faster but more torque. Second gear, traction will flash and I'm riding on 275 RE71s in the rear.

I like that I can go back to stock easily. I will probably run stock boost when it heats up in Florida.