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      11-28-2019, 05:37 AM   #1
3t3p
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Help with dash cam fuse taps

I all got parts to hardwire my Viofo A129 Duo dashcam.

So I believe you need a constant power fuse and an ignition one.

Can anyone recommend which fuses to use please as I do not find the fuse guide helpful at all may as well be in Egyptian!

Diagrams or pics /annotations would be perfect where possible.

Also what voltage cutoff would people choose? I'm thinking no lower than 12v tbh.
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      11-28-2019, 09:08 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
I all got parts to hardwire my Viofo A129 Duo dashcam.

So I believe you need a constant power fuse and an ignition one.

Can anyone recommend which fuses to use please as I do not find the fuse guide helpful at all may as well be in Egyptian!

Diagrams or pics /annotations would be perfect where possible.

Also what voltage cutoff would people choose? I'm thinking no lower than 12v tbh.
This is what I used.
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      11-28-2019, 10:35 AM   #3
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Thanks for that. You are only tapped into one fuse though?

So does your dashcam know when car is on/off?
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      12-03-2019, 09:32 PM   #4
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Bump I'd also like to see what setups you're all running. Got a Thinkware FA200 2CH on Black Friday which I'll be hardwiring as well once I get some time.
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      12-04-2019, 03:53 AM   #5
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I have a thinkware with parking mode, will take a pic tonight with the wiring.

You need 2 add a fuses to do park mode.

I have had a couple warning of abnormal low voltage but no further issues. Car is left parked for several days at a time sometimes.
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      12-04-2019, 04:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3t3p View Post
Thanks for that. You are only tapped into one fuse though?

So does your dashcam know when car is on/off?
Don't think I have "park mode" goes off/on with the car.
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      12-06-2019, 08:07 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megator View Post
I have a thinkware with parking mode, will take a pic tonight with the wiring.

You need 2 add a fuses to do park mode.

I have had a couple warning of abnormal low voltage but no further issues. Car is left parked for several days at a time sometimes.
Awesome, looking forward to it.

What voltage cut off setting are you using? Have you tried adjusting it for less chance of the battery warning?
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      12-09-2019, 11:17 AM   #8
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I used this video guide to run wire from my dashcam Blackvue DR650s front/back cams from the rearview mirror to the battery in the trunk. He's using a Thinkware dashcam, I'm using a Blackvue but it worked perfectly for me. I did not put any of the inline fuses on the wire that he recommends though.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1378415
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      12-10-2019, 12:30 PM   #9
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Yes really need it to know when car is on/off for my camera to work properly so any more pics or input would be fantastic thanks.
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      12-11-2019, 03:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gphung View Post
Awesome, looking forward to it.

What voltage cut off setting are you using? Have you tried adjusting it for less chance of the battery warning?
Sorry it took so long. If anything is unclear fron the pics just ask .

I had to lengthen the stock wires as they did not reach from the front cam to the fuse box in the trunk.

Guide the wires through any gaps in the panels and the door seal rubbers.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1As8...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Amv...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Aci...w?usp=drivesdk

Last edited by Megator; 12-11-2019 at 04:02 AM..
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      12-23-2019, 05:32 PM   #11
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Thanks for that. You've put in two taps right?
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      12-24-2019, 11:58 PM   #12
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Now that I’ve done it, tapping into the fuse box under the hood is significantly easier than running wires to the rear of the car if you don’t have to.

There is an opening to the bottom of the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I believe this is the opening in the bulkhead that would be used for the steering column on RHD vehicles. Anyway, the fuse box under the hood has many fuses that aren’t actually being used at all; no wires going to the output side of them!

You can buy crimps that slide into the connectors on the back side of the fuse panel from BMW, or you can buy crimps with about a foot of wire already crimped on. Find a couple of us-used fuses, one for permanent power and one for ignition and you’re good to go.

Keep in mind that there are basically 3 power states in our generation of BMWs:

- Permanent 12v
- 12v for when someone is present (gets enabled when you open the door and shuts off a few minutes after the car is locked)
- 12v for ignition

I used two in-used 12v ignition fuses (146 and 147 if I remember correctly) to a) provide power to my WMI controller, and b) to run to the unconnected ignition positive pin of the OBD port.

For ground, there is a ground terminal in each footwell under the carpet.
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      12-26-2019, 05:01 PM   #13
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Hmm my car is RHD. Are you saying these fuses are physically in the engine bay?
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      12-26-2019, 08:04 PM   #14
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Yes, in your case there on the right side when looking from the front.
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      01-06-2020, 04:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
Yes, in your case there on the right side when looking from the front.
Could you keep the box water tight? and running a cable to the rear is a easy as if you know what you are doing.

The only thing is that the thinkware cable is too short and must be lengthened to reach the rear.

To the OP yes you need 2 connections permanent 12v and switched 12v so that the cam knows when to go into parking mode.
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      01-11-2020, 04:45 PM   #16
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You can get the 2 feeds at the BCM Passanger foot well
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      02-03-2020, 07:10 AM   #17
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This thread was very useful:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1575292

I need to extend my Viofo three wire hardwire kit as not long enough by about 1.5m but then will use one of the three circled fuses that indeed only come on when ignition is on then go off without lingering for the accessory wire or in Viofo's case the yellow wire.

I will then use the permament battery wire (red for viofo) on one of the larger fuses to the right. I'll use the top most one in my case. I tested them and they are always on.
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      04-22-2020, 10:07 AM   #18
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Is it possible to run two accessories from the same fuse? I am considering hardwiring both a dashcam and a Raspberry Pi to use as a bootmod 3 agent. I would want both connected to 12v permanent and ignition 12v. Has anyone done something like this before?
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      04-22-2020, 10:41 AM   #19
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You can do that as long as you don’t overload the circuit.

What I did was run the dash cam from a fuse tap in the truck (with extended run batteries), and added an ignition 12v to the appropriate pin in the OBD port (which BMW doesn’t populate) from the front fuse box. I put a 12v to 5v converter in the body of the OBD plug and ran 5v power through a couple of the unused Ethernet wires to the RPi.

If you take a careful look at the fuse boxes (both front and rear), you’ll find that many of the fuses aren’t connected to anything! You can then check if those fuses are connected to permanent, ignition or accessory and use those fuses. You can buy crimps that will go in to the back of the fuses panels from BMW, and use these instead of fuses taps.

I created a google sheets document that lists the empty fuses for the front from my car and posted it on this forum at some point. I can’t post the link now, but will try later.

Good luck!
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      04-22-2020, 12:24 PM   #20
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Thanks very much! I found your sheet and will refer to it. Your method is elegant for the RPi - I didn't realize that the ENet cable wasn't using all the wires of the ethernet cable. How did you split it off at the end to get a USB connection?
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      04-22-2020, 01:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digimattic View Post
Thanks very much! I found your sheet and will refer to it. Your method is elegant for the RPi - I didn't realize that the ENet cable wasn't using all the wires of the ethernet cable. How did you split it off at the end to get a USB connection?
I cut the outer sleeving of the Ethernet cable close to (a few inches), but before Ethernet plug for the RPi, and cut the wires at that point. I soldered the micro USB connector on there and then put glue filled heat shrink over the whole connection area at that point.

My RPi now sits semi-permanently installed Velcro'd on to the top of the lower air-bag under the dash, power and data from the OBD port, internet and data to the phone over USB.

One additional thing I did was to re-wire the USB port between the cup holders so that it's connected to the RPi. I found that Wireless CarPlay, which connects by default and keeps trying to connect, perhaps understandably, messes with the WiFi hotspot function on my iPhone. PTF mentioned that you can do tethering through the USB port and I've found that this works great, even with CarPlay running wirelessly. To do this I ordered a replacement cable that clips in the back of the USB socket, unclipped the stock cable and just left it there, cut the new cable and soldered on a USB plug to go in the RPi.
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      04-22-2020, 02:42 PM   #22
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Dude - you're a legend. That's awesome. I am not sure about my ability to do that kind of soldering, but it's inspiring. I haven't got a USB port in my cupholder, so I'd have to think about cutting. Does the Pi pass through enough power to keep your phone running with Waze/spotify etc. running?

I was thinking of using one of these to feed the Pi. https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify...-supply-switch



Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I cut the outer sleeving of the Ethernet cable close to (a few inches), but before Ethernet plug for the RPi, and cut the wires at that point. I soldered the micro USB connector on there and then put glue filled heat shrink over the whole connection area at that point.

My RPi now sits semi-permanently installed Velcro'd on to the top of the lower air-bag under the dash, power and data from the OBD port, internet and data to the phone over USB.

One additional thing I did was to re-wire the USB port between the cup holders so that it's connected to the RPi. I found that Wireless CarPlay, which connects by default and keeps trying to connect, perhaps understandably, messes with the WiFi hotspot function on my iPhone. PTF mentioned that you can do tethering through the USB port and I've found that this works great, even with CarPlay running wirelessly. To do this I ordered a replacement cable that clips in the back of the USB socket, unclipped the stock cable and just left it there, cut the new cable and soldered on a USB plug to go in the RPi.
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