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      05-10-2020, 08:40 AM   #1
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sway bars

Guys, I was wondering if someone already installed sway bars on the m2 competition and how it went. The front one is very straight forward and easy to do. What i believe it's a real pain in the ass is the rear one. i know i have to drop the rear subframe but how painfull it is??

also i need some information about endlinks. I need adjustable but i can't find them. it seems that slp makes them but they aren't sealed and so not very suitable for street.
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      05-11-2020, 06:56 AM   #2
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Why do you need to upgrade the anti-roll bars? If you're taking it to the track a lot, it might be that some fully adjustable coilers would better fit the bill. Easier to fit and remove too.
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      05-11-2020, 08:25 AM   #3
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I installed F & R sways on jack stands in my home garage. Dropping and raising the rear subframe In a controlled manner is challenging...but doable if you have the right tools. I used a long reach AC brand floor jack to raise and lower the subframe from the diff case. Don’t know if I’d tackle it at home again without a similar style jack.
Youll need to drop the subframe quite a bit in order to get the minimum clearances needed to snake the rear bar through from one side to the other.
Good luck !
BTW...I do believe sway bars are a worthwhile suspension mod on this platform...probably every bit as beneficial as coil-overs.

Last edited by M2C AW; 05-11-2020 at 08:38 AM..
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      05-11-2020, 08:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Why do you need to upgrade the anti-roll bars? If you're taking it to the track a lot, it might be that some fully adjustable coilers would better fit the bill. Easier to fit and remove too.
I already have fully adjustable coilover lowering the car the body roll increases. I don't want to use the dampers to take care of something that sway bars do.
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      05-11-2020, 11:03 AM   #5
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I have never been a sway bar fan. I only replace as a last course of action in finishing a suspension setup...

They are needed to build a competitive autocross car, but for a car that will be driven both on the street and the track I don't like to Cons...

Frequent lube, and servicing to prevent NVH & binding

A stiffer sway bar can also have the force of the bump on one wheel be transferred over to the other, causing very jarring movements, loss of traction, etc.

With an aftermarket C/O setup with much stiffer linear springs sway bar thickness and ease of adjustment becomes more problematical (law of diminishing returns) .

Also if you want to replace the rear bar on the M2 you have to drop the subframe which is a major PITA! Several hours of pain and suffering and requires special equipment.

Ultimately I always go back to the question WHY?

Are you chasing laptimes? Trying to balance a softer spring setup using a firmer bar, or bars?

The biggest plus to ASB's is cost. They are for the most part inexpensive. Of course if I do bars I want ease of adjustment (blades) and those bars are at least twice as expensive as standard ones.

Best of luck
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      05-11-2020, 11:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
I have never been a sway bar fan. I only replace as a last course of action in finishing a suspension setup...

They are needed to build a competitive autocross car, but for a car that will be driven both on the street and the track I don't like to Cons...

Frequent lube, and servicing to prevent NVH & binding

A stiffer sway bar can also have the force of the bump on one wheel be transferred over to the other, causing very jarring movements, loss of traction, etc.

With an aftermarket C/O setup with much stiffer linear springs sway bar thickness and ease of adjustment becomes more problematical (law of diminishing returns) .

Also if you want to replace the rear bar on the M2 you have to drop the subframe which is a major PITA! Several hours of pain and suffering and requires special equipment.

Ultimately I always go back to the question WHY?

Are you chasing laptimes? Trying to balance a softer spring setup using a firmer bar, or bars?

The biggest plus to ASB's is cost. They are for the most part inexpensive. Of course if I do bars I want ease of adjustment (blades) and those bars are at least twice as expensive as standard ones.

Best of luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
I have never been a sway bar fan. I only replace as a last course of action in finishing a suspension setup...

They are needed to build a competitive autocross car, but for a car that will be driven both on the street and the track I don't like to Cons...

Frequent lube, and servicing to prevent NVH & binding

A stiffer sway bar can also have the force of the bump on one wheel be transferred over to the other, causing very jarring movements, loss of traction, etc.

With an aftermarket C/O setup with much stiffer linear springs sway bar thickness and ease of adjustment becomes more problematical (law of diminishing returns) .

Also if you want to replace the rear bar on the M2 you have to drop the subframe which is a major PITA! Several hours of pain and suffering and requires special equipment.

Ultimately I always go back to the question WHY?

Are you chasing laptimes? Trying to balance a softer spring setup using a firmer bar, or bars?

The biggest plus to ASB's is cost. They are for the most part inexpensive. Of course if I do bars I want ease of adjustment (blades) and those bars are at least twice as expensive as standard ones.

Best of luck
I drive the car a lot at the track( well now it's closed)

You have to excuse me but you went to technical and this is too much for my English. What is a c/o,coilover?
I'm not trying to fight the springs I don't want,as I said to use the springs to fight the body roll. Plus where I live it's full of small turns and it will be much nicer.

I'm a lamborghini technician so you have no idea what pita means🤣 and I have all the necessary tools for the job,that is not the problem. I will have a technician from squadra corse set up the car
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      05-11-2020, 11:16 AM   #7
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C/O is coilovers...

What spring rates are you using now and what shocks?
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      05-11-2020, 11:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
C/O is coilovers...

What spring rates are you using now and what shocks?
As of now I have mperformance but another one in a box with90nm front and 90nm+20nm helper for the rear
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      05-11-2020, 11:48 AM   #9
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The MPE comes with the same spring rates front and rear?

Thats strange....


There is usually a few hundred lb difference front front to rear. The only exception is if your running a true C/O setup in the rear.
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      05-11-2020, 12:15 PM   #10
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Here's the procedure for swapping the rear bar. Make sure you click on all of the preliminary step links.

The process is pretty similar to the F2x/F3x, and you can get an idea of what that looks like from my video below:
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      05-11-2020, 12:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Fabri View Post
As of now I have mperformance but another one in a box with90nm front and 90nm+20nm helper for the rear
Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
The MPE comes with the same spring rates front and rear?

Thats strange....


There is usually a few hundred lb difference front front to rear. The only exception is if your running a true C/O setup in the rear.
The M-Perf kit doesn't come with same rates front/rear. I don't see why you couldn't find a way to retrofit other springs though. I'm assuming you meant "N/mm" because "N/m" makes absolutely no sense given the numbers used. 90 N/mm is still really stiff for the front! That would be terribly balanced if you run 90 N/mm front and 90 N/mm in the rear with the M-Perf HAS. 90 N/mm in the rear is lower than the car comes with stock.
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      05-11-2020, 12:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
The MPE comes with the same spring rates front and rear?

Thats strange....


There is usually a few hundred lb difference front front to rear. The only exception is if your running a true C/O setup in the rear.
right now i have the mpe. i wil swap for another which will have the spring rate i wrote. I'm happy with the mpe, i just want to make it a little bit software and see. then i will change it..maybe
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      05-11-2020, 12:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Here's the procedure for swapping the rear bar. Make sure you click on all of the preliminary step links.

The process is pretty similar to the F2x/F3x, and you can get an idea of what that looks like from my video below:
i thought it was way annoying. it doesen't seem that bad.
did you use a quickjack? i might have one of this for small jobs at home. I don't want to drive every time at work for stupid tasks.
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      05-11-2020, 12:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
The M-Perf kit doesn't come with same rates front/rear. I don't see why you couldn't find a way to retrofit other springs though. I'm assuming you meant "N/mm" because "N/m" makes absolutely no sense given the numbers used. 90 N/mm is still really stiff for the front! That would be terribly balanced if you run 90 N/mm front and 90 N/mm in the rear with the M-Perf HAS. 90 N/mm in the rear is lower than the car comes with stock.
yeah but you don't have to look at the kit as if it was stock car. and then you're right n/mm
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      05-11-2020, 12:37 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Fabri View Post
i thought it was way annoying. it doesen't seem that bad.
did you use a quickjack? i might have one of this for small jobs at home. I don't want to drive every time at work for stupid tasks.
Yeah, I have a quickjack at home. Makes doing work a lot easier. I've done a bunch of F2x/F3x rear sway bar swaps. The F2x/F3x front sway bar swap is a lot worse (so many more fasteners to undo and have to hoist the engine first).
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      05-11-2020, 01:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Fabri View Post
i thought it was way annoying. it doesen't seem that bad.
did you use a quickjack? i might have one of this for small jobs at home. I don't want to drive every time at work for stupid tasks.
Yeah, I have a quickjack at home. Makes doing work a lot easier. I've done a bunch of F2x/F3x rear sway bar swaps. The F2x/F3x front sway bar swap is a lot worse (so many more fasteners to undo and have to hoist the engine first).
Nope,the front is at the bottom
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      05-11-2020, 01:48 PM   #17
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Nope,the front is at the bottom
Yeah it's much nicer on the F8x cars for the front. The F2x/F3x front bar is on top of the subframe.
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      05-11-2020, 01:56 PM   #18
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Yeah it's much nicer on the F8x cars for the front. The F2x/F3x front bar is on top of the subframe.
that sucks
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      05-11-2020, 03:37 PM   #19
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i found the whiteline endlinks are sealed for street usage so they might be good for what i need. also the offer 1 day shipment. if everythings goes well i should get everithing by saturday
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      05-12-2020, 05:20 PM   #20
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i found the whiteline endlinks are sealed for street usage so they might be good for what i need. also the offer 1 day shipment. if everythings goes well i should get everithing by saturday
FWIW, I ran SPL's full arm set on my e92 M3 and I had zero issues on street use. no increase in NVH as well. I plan on doing the same with my M2C.
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      05-13-2020, 03:01 PM   #21
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FWIW, I ran SPL's full arm set on my e92 M3 and I had zero issues on street use. no increase in NVH as well. I plan on doing the same with my M2C.
good to know. i will start to follow on instagram. I'm interested in the bump steer stuff correction kit from spl. nest mod this one.

them i'm u nsure between the camber plate or the bearing hub. both should give me 2 degree( more for with camber plates) of camber
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      05-13-2020, 03:08 PM   #22
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Quote:
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them i'm u nsure between the camber plate or the bearing hub. both should give me 2 degree( more for with camber plates) of camber
I'll be running Ground Control Camber Plates, the hubs seem like a viable option, it's just my preference for Camber plates.
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