04-23-2020, 12:17 AM | #23 | ||
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I ended up buying a bag of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-MP1584...72.m2749.l2649, and though that results in power being yanked from the RPi, I've never had any issues with file corruption or not booting etc. in the 2 years I've had it set up. I still have some of these sat on my desk from my build! If you're happy to pay for the parts, I'll make you up a cable with the DC/DC converter built in and a micro USB cable etc. You'll need to run a wire from the back of the front fuse box to the OBD port but I could provide you with a cable with the correct crimps on each end for that as well.
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Current Performance Mods: CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings Last edited by Nezil; 04-23-2020 at 12:25 AM.. |
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04-23-2020, 11:19 AM | #24 |
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I just might take you up on that, though I think the price of shipping from SF to TO will make things prohibitively expensive.
I also had a thought - Running power through those pins; could that potentially fry some shop's diagnostics device? I know that BMW doesn't use the pins, but presumably something will. Last thing I want to do is take the car in and nuke their machine. I think I am going to try a Pi 4, if the firmware doesn't work, I will repurpose it and pick up a 3+. I really appreciate you taking the time to respond, and your kind offer of making the mods, though. |
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04-23-2020, 12:01 PM | #25 |
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well since I hardwired the cam has gone mental and bricked. Think it's just coincidence.
Otherwise I appeared to have hardwired correctly. Even with no dashcam the hardwire kit draws some power, to the extent battery warning lights have come on the dash. So given the dash cam isn't working have reverted to stock with no taps in situ. |
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04-23-2020, 01:36 PM | #26 | |||
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Having said that, I do usually remove my RPi and cabling before visiting the dealer. I need to do that anyway because it's plugged into the the OBD port that they want to use, and I'd rather not alert them to a tune unnecessarily. When I remove all of this stuff. I unplug the fuse that runs to that pin. It shouldn't be necessary, but I do it just in case. Quote:
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2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...
Current Performance Mods: CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings |
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04-23-2020, 01:38 PM | #27 | |
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I can flick a switch in the trunk and have my dash cam battery charge from the car battery for 12 hours after I stop before it starts to discharge, increasing run-time. Even when I do this, I still don't get any warnings.
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2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...
Current Performance Mods: CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings |
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06-05-2020, 02:48 PM | #28 |
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Back again! I finally got my RPi 4 and PSU. The PSU has this screwless jumper/terminal block. Anyone have an idea how to get the wires out without breaking it? It's rather delicate. I'd prefer one clean cable run from the power to the PSU, rather than using crimp connectors etc.
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06-05-2020, 02:49 PM | #29 | |
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2018 ///M2 LCI, LBB, 6MT...
Current Performance Mods: CSF FMIC, ER CP, Fabspeed Cat, Aquamist WMI, GFB DV+, NGK 97506, BM3 (Stage 2 93 OTS), CDV delete, UCP, M2C/M3/M4 Strut Brace, M3/M4 Reinforcement Rings |
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06-05-2020, 03:13 PM | #30 |
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Yeah, that was the first thing I tried, unsuccessfully, along with gently lifting up the tab. No joy - at least with the level of pressure I felt comfortable applying.
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