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      10-26-2020, 07:20 PM   #1
GeraldM2
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Turbosmart BOV install help?

What is the best way to install a new diverter valve? I tried once before (without) removing the turbo inlet pipe, but could not reach the screws. I want to try again once I get in my new turbo inlet pipe, should I remove the stock boost pipe and the turbo inlet pipe to make space for it?
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      10-26-2020, 07:43 PM   #2
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I changed out my diverter to Turbosmart. I followed a YouTube video from BMW DIY guy. He has some good tips towards the end of the video. I removed the water pump bolts and just pushed it over. I cut off an Allen key to be shorter to get the new bolts started. I used an assortment of extensions to get the stock ones lose and to tighten the new one up from the front by the rad (accessing from top of engine and some from bottom reaching up between rad and engine. Had to remove a bunch of stuff to make room for my hands. Water pump mounts were used to help guide my extensions in.
You will need a ball ended Allen key in correct size. I used 3 of them and cut two to the correct sizes needed, and then I hot glued them into a socket so I could marry them into an assortment of ratchet extensions to get the perfect fit.

I have done a lot of work on my various cars and this is by far the hardest job I’ve done on any of them. Like 20 times harder than the downpipe. And similar to changing headers on a very old Nissan Armada! If I were to do it again I’d just take it to a shop and pay them a couple hrs labor to do it. Lots of bloodied fingers/hands.
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      10-26-2020, 07:58 PM   #3
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Installing the diverter valve is not too bad if you remove the upper intake pipe. Once the pipe is removed there's plenty of room to go from above and get to the top bolt. I recommend a ball end hex key. You still can't see the bolt and going by feel but you have enough room to reach it with a small extension along with your hand and feel it slip in. As for the bottom 2 bolts I found it easier to use a super long extension and go through the radiator fan to get to the bolts straight on. Removing the water pump bolts and having it loose helps a lot. Tip on getting the top water pump bolt. If you have the upper intake pipe removed you can easily reach it from above with a long extension. I'd suggest getting an MST V2 and doing it at the same time. Honestly I think I could do the Diverter install in 2hrs-ish.
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      10-26-2020, 08:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraldM2 View Post
What is the best way to install a new diverter valve? I tried once before (without) removing the turbo inlet pipe, but could not reach the screws. I want to try again once I get in my new turbo inlet pipe, should I remove the stock boost pipe and the turbo inlet pipe to make space for it?
When I installed my GFB DV+ I pulled the hot side charge pipe because that is essentially your main passage way to the diverter valve, there literally is no way to do it without pulling that pipe. Then you will also have to pull the inlet because that is also in the way, this means right strut brace has to be removed and the air box has to be pulled as well. Then I pulled out the water pump because that allows for the most amount of space to access the top screw. With the way my GFB DV+ is now orientated I do not need to pull the water pump but your mileage may vary depending on tools if you can do it without pulling the pump. I have heard you can drop the bracket and tilt the pump to get more space but I didn't want to pull all that pressure on the hoses.
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      10-26-2020, 10:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drop the hammer View Post
I changed out my diverter to Turbosmart. I followed a YouTube video from BMW DIY guy. He has some good tips towards the end of the video. I removed the water pump bolts and just pushed it over. I cut off an Allen key to be shorter to get the new bolts started. I used an assortment of extensions to get the stock ones lose and to tighten the new one up from the front by the rad (accessing from top of engine and some from bottom reaching up between rad and engine. Had to remove a bunch of stuff to make room for my hands. Water pump mounts were used to help guide my extensions in.
You will need a ball ended Allen key in correct size. I used 3 of them and cut two to the correct sizes needed, and then I hot glued them into a socket so I could marry them into an assortment of ratchet extensions to get the perfect fit.

I have done a lot of work on my various cars and this is by far the hardest job I’ve done on any of them. Like 20 times harder than the downpipe. And similar to changing headers on a very old Nissan Armada! If I were to do it again I’d just take it to a shop and pay them a couple hrs labor to do it. Lots of bloodied fingers/hands.
I was thinking of taking it to a shop after my failure to complete the install the first time but they quoted me 750-850 for the install. I can't really justify spending that much money on a part that cost me 280 dollars.
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      10-27-2020, 08:25 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony1s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraldM2 View Post
I was thinking of taking it to a shop after my failure to complete the install the first time but they quoted me 750-850 for the install. I can't really justify spending that much money on a part that cost me 280 dollars.
Ha! Reminds me of a bill I had recently to Xpel a front lip and install it. It cost me $635!!! And that was with a labor discount. I was dumbfounded because he only charged me $2200 in labor to Xpel the entire car a couple years ago.

Kinda nervous what the bill will be when I have my him do the M4 strut brace swap, brake lines and fluid, and DV and Inlet pipe all at once next.
Is that $635 just to install PPF on a lip?!
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      10-27-2020, 05:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraldM2 View Post
I was thinking of taking it to a shop after my failure to complete the install the first time but they quoted me 750-850 for the install. I can't really justify spending that much money on a part that cost me 280 dollars.
I agree, it's definitely not worth 750-850 to do it. Not having the bottom the inlet pipe will give you more room to work. This is why I 'm suggesting doing the MST V2 at same time.
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      10-27-2020, 08:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by tenkies View Post
I agree, it's definitely not worth 750-850 to do it. Not having the bottom the inlet pipe will give you more room to work. This is why I 'm suggesting doing the MST V2 at same time.
Yea im waiting for black friday to pick up the rest of my bolt ons, turbo inlet pipe, charge pipe intercooler and then im gonna install everything at once
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      10-28-2020, 05:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Yea im waiting for black friday to pick up the rest of my bolt ons, turbo inlet pipe, charge pipe intercooler and then im gonna install everything at once
That's what I did and it took me an entire weekend to do it all by myself. I see you're in SoCal? Where about?
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      10-28-2020, 06:18 PM   #10
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East of LA, 30 minutes from downtown and 30 minutes from irvine. I could really use some help with the install haha
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      10-28-2020, 08:34 PM   #11
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It took me about 4 hrs start to finish. But if I were to do it again probably a couple hours as I know how now and have the tools to eliminate all the trial and error I was doing. A shop familiar with the job should only take a couple hours. I was also working with front wheel ramps and laying on my garage floor. So a lift would make it much easier. If you have smaller hands that would be a huge asset. My hands and fore arms are XL so I struggled and even got stuck a few times!
I should have video logged it and my tools I used to save others time. However, I underestimated the job. Top bolt was the hard one for sure.
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      10-29-2020, 10:46 AM   #12
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I replaced all the pipes at the same time which made removing the stock DV pretty easy and installing the TS a little easier. A ball allen is a must have but also, I found a very small ratchet to be invaluable, I could get it up over the water pump (bolts removed) with an extension and I could turn the bolts because the ratchet was so small. I picked it up years ago as an impulse purchase while checking out at AutoZone.

The harder job for me was installing the PCV hose onto the Pure Turbo intake pipe. It looked like the little set screw was in the same position as the self tapping screw on the stock pipe but it is not! Once the pipe is installed, it's closer to the 6 o'clock on the Pure Turbo vs 4 o'clock on the stock pipe. I could not get it to thread and ended up removing the intake pipe again, installing the hose and working the whole lot back into position. The MST V2 looks to be more in line with the stock pipe position so if I were doing it again...
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      10-29-2020, 12:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraldM2 View Post
East of LA, 30 minutes from downtown and 30 minutes from irvine. I could really use some help with the install haha
I'm in Arcadia. If you let me know when you're doing it I might be able to swing by and see if I can give you a hand
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      10-29-2020, 12:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
I replaced all the pipes at the same time which made removing the stock DV pretty easy and installing the TS a little easier. A ball allen is a must have but also, I found a very small ratchet to be invaluable, I could get it up over the water pump (bolts removed) with an extension and I could turn the bolts because the ratchet was so small. I picked it up years ago as an impulse purchase while checking out at AutoZone.

The harder job for me was installing the PCV hose onto the Pure Turbo intake pipe. It looked like the little set screw was in the same position as the self tapping screw on the stock pipe but it is not! Once the pipe is installed, it's closer to the 6 o'clock on the Pure Turbo vs 4 o'clock on the stock pipe. I could not get it to thread and ended up removing the intake pipe again, installing the hose and working the whole lot back into position. The MST V2 looks to be more in line with the stock pipe position so if I were doing it again...
I think I had the same experience as you. It took me longer to remove and replace the intake pipe and PCV than doing the TS diverter.
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      11-06-2020, 11:50 AM   #15
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Here's a video a buddy and I made on installing this along with the MST inlet pipe!
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      11-06-2020, 02:47 PM   #16
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Here's a video a buddy and I made on installing this along with the MST inlet pipe!
Dang where was this when i needed it a month ago 😂!
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      11-06-2020, 03:17 PM   #17
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Dang where was this when i needed it a month ago 😂!
You and me both haha, it was a bit of a struggle for us but hopefully this will help others who come across this thread
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      06-11-2021, 09:17 AM   #18
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So does anyone know how that small screw he mentions at the end is mounted?
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      06-12-2021, 07:45 PM   #19
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So does anyone know how that small screw he mentions at the end is mounted?
A ball end hex will enable you to reach all 3 bolts on the diverter valve without issue. It'll give you enough angle on that too hex by the oil line, that's what I used and it worked perfectly.
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      08-16-2021, 09:39 PM   #20
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Before I start to disassemble and pulling parts out, Ive got the ball-ended Allen that can plug into a socket. I'm wondering how long these extensions need to be. 6"... 12" .... 20"? I'm assuming ¼ size is best here and not the ½.

Just preparing myself. Planning to take it slow.
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      08-16-2021, 09:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrooooom View Post
Before I start to disassemble and pulling parts out, Ive got the ball-ended Allen that can plug into a socket. I'm wondering how long these extensions need to be. 6"... 12" .... 20"? I'm assuming ¼ size is best here and not the ½.

Just preparing myself. Planning to take it slow.
I stuck my whole arm up there so I had maybe a 6" extension at most. Yes 1/4" drive tools would be best, that's what I used as well.

Be careful ball end sockets are so fragile they will easily break, I recommend a hex key to remove the bolts initially and then ball end sockets to tighten the bolts at the end. Because at the beginning there's still enough room between the oil line and diverter valve for a hex key to fit but at the end there isn't.
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      08-17-2021, 01:40 PM   #22
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If you're replacing the inlet piping at the same time it's so much faster going from the top of the engine and feeling for the bolts IMO than going from the bottom and trying to get your arm in strange angles to reach them.
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