10-15-2021, 10:30 AM | #23 | |
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10-15-2021, 01:19 PM | #24 |
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You want to stop it going into the intake. It's directed into the OCC, where it 'may' evaporate. At that point it's not going into the intake, so aside from oil fumes in the interior - you don't care...
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10-15-2021, 02:30 PM | #25 |
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Well in regards to high temperature of the occ it is a concern with how well it will pull the oil out of the air stream via condensation. This is why really good baffling is critical, with a radium engineering or turner can they use alot of baffling or steel wool mesh and alot of air flow direction changes. This in effect forces the air to turn alot of corners and since oil droplets in the air stream cannot corner as fast as air they drop out of suspension, the baffled will also force the air to go through tight gaps also forcing the oil out of suspension.
Now once out of suspension and in the can it's not going anywhere, the temperature for oil to volatilize is like 300C which your oil catch can will not get to. What will volatilize is the water, and fuel vapors that were caught. The water vapors getting sucked back into the engine is fine, but the fuel vapors might be an issue because gasoline when it evaporates leaves a gum behind. I don't think this is going to be much of a problem because when oil mixes with gasoline it forms that sludge in the can, so it's unlikely for the additives that is left in the gas at that point to be able to leave any deposits/gum. This is also why you should use good gas. Now, why should you run the can hot vs. cold? If any of you winter drive your car this is critical. Almost all Subaru oil catch cans are located in the hottest part of the engine bay and even have coolant lines running to then to heat the can up. This is so the baffles inside along with the hoses don't clog up when the water freezes in the can. This will effectively block up the pcv system and that's bad news. This issue is more prevalent on Subarus because of the open hood scoop, but if you have the car really far forward in the engine bay and you're driving highway speeds in the winter, it actually does get really cold in that area. So your best bet imo is just to get a can with excellent air flow manipulation and good baffling and you'll be fine regardless of temperature that the can reaches. If you winter drive your car mount it some place hot. I personally was going to utilize the turner catch can (I did a ton of research on this can and it was the best bolt in solution ATM, the only better option imo is a radium can and a bunch of custom bracketry and hoses), but since my car seems to bit have an issue with ocv vapors I decided to opt out.
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10-15-2021, 02:43 PM | #26 | |
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10-15-2021, 02:58 PM | #27 | |
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You can also run a piece of toilet paper or tissue paper l, something that's white inside the pipe to see if you collect any oil. If not you really are good to go w/o a can.
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10-15-2021, 03:40 PM | #28 | ||
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Yes indeed IF I buy one it will probably be from Turner
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10-15-2021, 07:21 PM | #29 | |
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10-15-2021, 08:56 PM | #30 |
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I had a super detailed write up for the turner can, but It ended up not working out.
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10-18-2021, 10:54 AM | #31 |
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I like the Turner OCC and how well it fits into the engine bay, but definitely not a pure plug and play If you want to use your engine cover. You can see where the cover was trimmed and I installed an edge guard. I just did my oil change this weekend and like others have said I didn't see anything in the can after couple thousand miles.
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10-18-2021, 11:07 AM | #32 | |
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Are you running a drain hose ?
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10-18-2021, 03:43 PM | #33 |
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10-18-2021, 04:30 PM | #34 | |
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I can see why you did that Definitely a good move
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10-18-2021, 05:37 PM | #35 |
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Honestly though it would probably be faster to just unscrew the canister from the mount instead of getting under the car and messing with the drain line
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10-18-2021, 06:12 PM | #36 |
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Probably is actually
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10-18-2021, 06:14 PM | #37 |
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Hoses are in the way, it's best to get the drain hose if you don't want to disassemble a bunch of stuff. Then when you change your oil you can drain the can.
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10-19-2021, 10:46 AM | #38 |
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10-19-2021, 12:52 PM | #39 |
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Why not just run a hose straight from the crankcase breather down to the passenger side wheel well where the reinforcement belly pan ends?
As you may have gathered by now, I'm having some trouble with the need for a catch can on an N55 engine. But then, I also own a car with an M54 engine and that breathes 'quite hard' - particularly if I drive down steep hills in low gears with the throttle shut. So, if the breather isn't attached to manifold vacuum, remarkably little vapour is going to be drawn out of the engine. But excess crankcase pressure will still vent. HTH |
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10-19-2021, 01:57 PM | #40 | |
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10-19-2021, 04:41 PM | #42 |
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Yeah lol, so don't be opening the oil cap or venting the pcv lines without doing the afforementioned steps or else there will at minimum be a CEL (venting the pcv hose without doing anything else), and at worst be a blown valve cover if you plug the head ports without opening the oil filter cap to vent the blow by gasses.
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10-19-2021, 05:24 PM | #43 |
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you can't reach that firewall bolt (it's also hard to get a socket on it too) unless the can top is off, and that can't be done with the can bottom still on.
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