[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by M2guru

So I had two quarts of oil left in the pan (four track days on the Redline oil and no daily driving), I have glitter in my oil (filter looked pretty good), and this:

Absolutely ridiculous. BMW just doesn’t build robust cars, I don’t care what anyone says.

The S52B32 and M54B30 would vibrate themselves apart over 6000rpm and sometimes cause the oil pump to explode catastrophically. The S54 needs a glue like oil to keep it together, and still burns through its bearings.

The E46 M3 has subframe issues, as did the E36/7 Z3/M - they would tear the floorboard off with hard driving.

The N55 has oil pickup issue (non M), bearing issues, and clearly turbo issues. I would honestly check the bearings, and replace the turbo with one of the ones I showed you, unless you plan on going faster.

Nice package of cars - garbage powertrains.

Meanwhile, Honda could casually make 9000RPM screamers that were rock solid. Nissan had 7500-8000RPM engines with variable intake lift without blowing up.

[c0riolis]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

The N55 has oil pickup issue (non M), bearing issues, and clearly turbo issues. I would honestly check the bearings, and replace the turbo with one of the ones I showed you, unless you plan on going faster.

From what I have seen so far, the T0 variant of the N55 seems to be pretty solid in its stock form aside from the (not so bad) typical N55 issues (coolant flange, charge pipe, etc...).

All of the major engine issues I have read about/seen so far were tuned cars.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by M2guru

So I had two quarts of oil left in the pan (four track days on the Redline oil and no daily driving), I have glitter in my oil (filter looked pretty good), and this:

The oil level sensor would have picked it up if you burned a lot on track so there might be a couple of quarts of oil where there shouldn't be.

Any idea where the glittery bits in oil came up? What are the next steps?

If you're looking for shop recommendations, Orr is my go to for anything I don't want to or can't DIY.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by Ximian

The oil level sensor would have picked it up if you burned a lot on track so there might be a couple of quarts of oil where there shouldn't be.

Any idea where the glittery bits in oil came up? What are the next steps?

If you're looking for shop recommendations, Orr is my go to for anything I don't want to or can't DIY.

By "there might be a couple of quarts of oil where there shouldn't be" do you mean out the exhaust? There are no leaks on the ground on the undertray.

The oil level sensor didn't tell me anything until I attempted to start my way home. I got two blocks and saw tons of smoke out the back (oil) and then turned around. There was a little bit of idling/driving around (like 1/4 mile) with the low oil warning. I added a quart of fresh and then it told me to add another. At that point I stopped driving, but I did load it on the trailer by driving it up. When it was showing low oil the second time, I had my BM3 dashboard up and the pressure was showing good (even with 2 quarts).

On the track, the BM3 datalogger shows good oil pressure - it never told me about low oil until about 5 minutes of idling around after being on the track. I think the glitter came from the turbo journal bearing.

Anyone know the path of oil from the turbo drain? Does it go to the pan, then up to the oil filter? If so, the oil filter looked good so I am wondering if none of the bearing material made it to the rest of the engine from the turbo.

I have been in contact with the Motorwerks shop manager, but haven't given him these latest details. I'll get in touch with him Monday and see what his thoughts are. I might try Orr to see what they say too.

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by M2guru

By "there might be a couple of quarts of oil where there shouldn't be" do you mean out the exhaust? There are no leaks on the ground on the undertray.

The oil level sensor didn't tell me anything until I attempted to start my way home. I got two blocks and saw tons of smoke out the back (oil) and then turned around. There was a little bit of idling/driving around (like 1/4 mile) with the low oil warning. I added a quart of fresh and then it told me to add another. At that point I stopped driving, but I did load it on the trailer by driving it up. When it was showing low oil the second time, I had my BM3 dashboard up and the pressure was showing good (even with 2 quarts).

On the track, the BM3 datalogger shows good oil pressure - it never told me about low oil until about 5 minutes of idling around after being on the track. I think the glitter came from the turbo journal bearing.

Anyone know the path of oil from the turbo drain? Does it go to the pan, then up to the oil filter? If so, the oil filter looked good so I am wondering if none of the bearing material made it to the rest of the engine from the turbo.

I have been in contact with the Motorwerks shop manager, but haven't given him these latest details. I'll get in touch with him Monday and see what his thoughts are. I might try Orr to see what they say too.

Tony at Motorwerks? You'll get a good diagnosis there while Orr might be a better deal for any labor (for the area.) Part markup at the dealerships is wild. Motorwerks will also give you a quote with all the part numbers so that's helpful if you want to tackle it as a DIY.

As far as I can tell, the turbo oil return goes to the oil pan and the metallic bits are hopefully settling on the bottom. The return line might need a good cleaning to make sure there is no debris if you plan on reusing it.

I was at black flag and saw a small puff of smoke out of 6 before you came off track. While it's possible that the oil level sensor didn't catch a low oil condition on track, I'm assuming the level was fine and oil only started leaking and burning while you came off the track. It hard to imagine for me that the drive from the paddock to the garage you parked at would have burned through a couple of quarts of oil so that's why I think the turbo is leaking oil internally somewhere. Burning 4 or 5 quarts in the couple of miles is quite a bit. For me, the leak would be preferred over burning it as far as catalytic converter health is concerned.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Tony at Motorwerks? You'll get a good diagnosis there while Orr might be a better deal for any labor (for the area.) Part markup at the dealerships is wild. Motorwerks will also give you a quote with all the part numbers so that's helpful if you want to tackle it as a DIY.

As far as I can tell, the turbo oil return goes to the oil pan and the metallic bits are hopefully settling on the bottom. The return line might need a good cleaning to make sure there is no debris if you plan on reusing it.

I was at black flag and saw a small puff of smoke out of 6 before you came off track. While it's possible that the oil level sensor didn't catch a low oil condition on track, I'm assuming the level was fine and oil only started leaking and burning while you came off the track. It hard to imagine for me that the drive from the paddock to the garage you parked at would have burned through a couple of quarts of oil so that's why I think the turbo is leaking oil internally somewhere. Burning 4 or 5 quarts in the couple of miles is quite a bit. For me, the leak would be preferred over burning it as far as catalytic converter health is concerned.

Yes Tony. Thanks for you throughts on repair - I sent an email to Tony before I picked the car up Friday and diagnosed it yesterday. I sent a quick feeler to Orr this morning - hoping to talk to them Monday. Thanks for the information on when the puff was first seen. Car was great up until then - it just stopped building boost immediately.

Sorry I am not making the connection between you in real life and you on bimmerpost. Have we met?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Yes Tony. Thanks for you throughts on repair - I sent an email to Tony before I picked the car up Friday and diagnosed it yesterday. I sent a quick feeler to Orr this morning - hoping to talk to them Monday. Thanks for the information on when the puff was first seen. Car was great up until then - it just stopped building boost immediately.

Sorry I am not making the connection between you in real life and you on bimmerpost. Have we met?

Elvedin - I lost the FL wheel bolts into the carousel

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Elvedin - I lost the FL wheel bolts into the carousel

I thought it might be you. Thank you so much for trying to help by reading codes! I hope you get your situation resolved quickly and your car back to normal! It was good to be out there with you and working on the accident avoidance exercises with the novices and intermediates.

[M2guru]

In the process of removing my turbo, I removed my intercooler. It was much heavier than I thought. Then as I got up from my creeper, I tipped it and oil came out. I emptied more than 3.5 quarts from my CSF intercooler. I guess I know where my oil went...

If you wreck a turbo bearing...check out your intercooler. It's likely loaded with oil.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by M2guru

In the process of removing my turbo, I removed my intercooler. It was much heavier than I thought. Then as I got up from my creeper, I tipped it and oil came out. I emptied more than 3.5 quarts from my CSF intercooler. I guess I know where my oil went...

If you wreck a turbo bearing...check out your intercooler. It's likely loaded with oil.

It depends on how you break the turbo, it doesn't always spit oil when it breaks.
Car is stock level power or tuned?

[ThreeStripes]

BM3 Stage 2 93

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

BM3 Stage 2 93

Actually…91 - try to keep it safe. Apparently it didn’t matter.

[ThreeStripes]

I also use the BM3 S2 91 tune on track with 93 which is concerning.

Typically hit it with a splash of unleaded 100 or a little VP octane booster, never use 5th gear, and try to otherwise live a wholesome life while hoping the good lord keeps me safe.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by M2guru

Actually…91 - try to keep it safe. Apparently it didn’t matter.

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

I also use the BM3 S2 91 tune on track with 93 which is concerning.

Typically hit it with a splash of unleaded 100 or a little VP octane booster, never use 5th gear, and try to otherwise live a wholesome life while hoping the good lord keeps me safe.

The problem is not the octane, b03 turbocharger works out of range on stage2.

[ThreeStripes]

Personally moving to Pure500 and custom calibration for just that reason.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Personally moving to Pure500 and custom calibration for just that reason.

This is where I am headed. Have the pure500 in the cart as we speak. As I take the turbo off, I am wondering if it really is easier to leave the turbofold connected and take out the intake side by itself. Not sure where I'll pass it through...probably still have to take the motor mount off (and the engine support arm)...and go back, down, and out? Anyone done this before?

[ThreeStripes]

Heads up lead time is 6-8wk min.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Personally moving to Pure500 and custom calibration for just that reason.

Tuner? Fuel? Planning on dyno? Interested.

[ThreeStripes]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Tuner? Fuel? Planning on dyno? Interested.

Bend Cal, E85 blend w flex sensor, will dyno BM3 S2 91 as a baseline, then dyno final revision maps from Bend Cal on EcuTek.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by ThreeStripes

Heads up lead time is 6-8wk min.

Thanks - I have a lead time of 6 months due to winter in MN, so it should work. :-)

[abirmaher]

I blew mine recently with very similar symptoms.

Full bolt on blew in track at road Atlanta on a hot day in June. Heard a little pressure release and then no boost.

Drove 9 hours home after… bad idea in hindsight. Car drove fine just no boost. Noticed some white/ blue smoke from exhaust on startup. Sometimes worse than others.

First shop tested and found low compression on a cylinder. Took it to an engine shop and they did not find that but did find the turbo was seized.

Went pure stage 2. Working on retuning now and car is running well so far. Not an ideal situation for sure, a lot of money spent out of nowhere but it is what it is. For this to be the big ticket issue I’ve had after a few years of track days, it could be worse.

[M2guru]

Originally Posted by abirmaher

I blew mine recently with very similar symptoms.

Full bolt on blew in track at road Atlanta on a hot day in June. Heard a little pressure release and then no boost.

Drove 9 hours home after… bad idea in hindsight. Car drove fine just no boost. Noticed some white/ blue smoke from exhaust on startup. Sometimes worse than others.

First shop tested and found low compression on a cylinder. Took it to an engine shop and they did not find that but did find the turbo was seized.

Went pure stage 2. Working on retuning now and car is running well so far. Not an ideal situation for sure, a lot of money spent out of nowhere but it is what it is. For this to be the big ticket issue I’ve had after a few years of track days, it could be worse.

I appreciate you sharing your experience! Did you have oil in your IC? Also, was the cold or hot side seized? If the cold side, was there evidence of junks that may have gotten ingested?

It's my cold side that is seized and until I get the cold (or both) side off, I am curious regarding what I will find.