[M2RAW]

Front and rears almost maxed out lol still rides good in the canyons. What's the consequences of maxing it out as per recommended ride height? Not good for a long run?

[Toroinu]

Originally Posted by No_curebimmer

Thanks mate! While I haven't measured the fender gap prior to installing the B16s, I can say it must have been about double.

I do have some minuscule rubbing up front when turning the wheels sharply while maneuvering to park, but none while normal driving. No rubbing in the back as I'm only running 5mm spacers (10mm spacers up front).

I’m considering a kit. Heard great things about the b16 in terms of comfort.

As far as ride height goes, can it go lower than your current settings? I heard the b16 can’t go low. Now I’m not looking for slammed/tuck but just fender to tire fitment. Half a finger gap to no gap type of fitment.

I know the mperformance suspension at max rear still has a finger gap which is why I opted away from them

[Gusman1]

Originally Posted by Toroinu

I’m considering a kit. Heard great things about the b16 in terms of comfort.

As far as ride height goes, can it go lower than your current settings? I heard the b16 can’t go low. Now I’m not looking for slammed/tuck but just fender to tire fitment. Half a finger gap to no gap type of fitment.

I know the mperformance suspension at max rear still has a finger gap which is why I opted away from them

They go pretty low but ride will suffer. This is almost maxed out front and rear on 18s (265/35 & 295/30).

2nd pic I raised it about 10mm front and 20mm rear but on 255/40 & 275/40. Rides perfect now.

[Kattanah]

I just installed the Litchfield B16 on my M2C, and I absolutely love the setup

I only lowered the car about 1cm all around, installed new set of PS4S, and adjusted the alignment as per Litchfield recommend setup.

The car feels much more refined. The suspension now feel premium and sophisticated. I absolutely recommend it for a daily driver.

The only set back I had when installing it was the clicking sound the front wheels made when turning at full lock. Litchfield then provided me with insulation tubes for the front springs, and that fixed it permanently.

Here are some pics of before and after, the alignment setup and the front springs.

[Reddevils7]

Is the insulation tubing all that's needed to cure the clicking? My f82 on Bilstein b16d did the same and my current f87cs already came with kw has that also has the clicking but more prominent than compared to the m4.

[Kattanah]

Originally Posted by Reddevils7

Is the insulation tubing all that's needed to cure the clicking? My f82 on Bilstein b16d did the same and my current f87cs already came with kw has that also has the clicking but more prominent than compared to the m4.

Yes it totally solved it.

I also applied some white lithium grease all around.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Anyone have experience with both B16's and KW v3's? What's the best option

[carchrism5]

Originally Posted by SpecialEdition_F87

Anyone have experience with both B16's and KW v3's? What's the best option

Really cannot go wrong with either. I ran V3s on my 1M and B16s on current M2, love both. On the V3s the twin tube design was nice for the less than ideal roads around here but I really feel I didn't need all the adjustments. I went with B16s this time around as they are an awesome setup, with simple adjustments. I just felt the V3s got more expensive and left them at an odd price point now closely priced to the Ohlins (which I think are better all around) and a fair amount more than B16s.

Also the vendor where you buy coils from is just as important as the coils itself as I've seen issues with both Bilstein and KW in the warranty department and they often go through vendors.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by SpecialEdition_F87

Anyone have experience with both B16's and KW v3's? What's the best option

Depends on what you are doing with the car. Bilstein is a great value for a monotone coilover system. it's a great for street duty and even a light day at the track.

KW V3 adds independently adjustable compression damping, but you will likely gain much in damping or quality. However, you will have around $700 more. At that price you are better off with Ohlins R&T. Ohlins is running a rare November sale right now. PM for details.

[vrooooom]

Where's the best place to get the complete kit in the US?

I don't want the car to become lower, well myb just a little if ever. Is that possible?

[Kattanah]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

Where's the best place to get the complete kit in the US?

I don't want the car to become lower, well myb just a little if ever. Is that possible?

I got my B16 from the UK, Litchfield version. Very minor drop (around 10mm all around).

The best offers I have found on the standard B16 are in the UK (https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/prod...cef7&_ss=r). Shipping cost isn't bad.

Here are some pictures of my setup.

[vrooooom]

I can get the set locally for about 2600$ installed. This is probably not one of those things we would install ourselves right? Is there anything else I should be getting on top of the PSS10 “set”?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

I can get the set locally for about 2600$ installed. This is probably not one of those things we would install ourselves right? Is there anything else I should be getting on top of the PSS10 “set”?

If that is in USD, jump on it now!

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by Kattanah

I got my B16 from the UK, Litchfield version. Very minor drop (around 10mm all around).

The best offers I have found on the standard B16 are in the UK (https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/prod...bdc3cef7&_ss=r). Shipping cost isn't bad.

Here are some pictures of my setup.

Hey there. Just wondering if you (or anyone else) have heard any direct driving feedback on the difference b/n Litchfield's version of the B16 kit and Bilstein's B16 spec for the M2? I know Litchfield's spring rate and valving is different, but how does that change street and track driving?

The site you referenced (MLP) won't have the regular B16 kit in stock until late Jan, but it's quite a bit cheaper than Litchfield's kit which is in stock. Trying to decide if the extra Litchfield cost is worth it, or should wait til Jan for the cheaper set.

Also seems like if Litchfield's specs and pricing is the same for their Bilstein & Nitron kits, I would go Nitron for the added ride height and dampening adjustability.

Thoughts? Thanks.

[Kattanah]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Hey there. Just wondering if you (or anyone else) have heard any direct driving feedback on the difference b/n Litchfield's version of the B16 kit and Bilstein's B16 spec for the M2? I know Litchfield's spring rate and valving is different, but how does that change street and track driving?

The site you referenced (MLP) won't have the regular B16 kit in stock until late Jan, but it's quite a bit cheaper than Litchfield's kit which is in stock. Trying to decide if the extra Litchfield cost is worth it, or should wait til Jan for the cheaper set.

Also seems like if Litchfield's specs and pricing is the same for their Bilstein & Nitron kits, I would go Nitron for the added ride height and dampening adjustability.

Thoughts? Thanks.

Hey there,
Unfortunately I can't help you with that. I went with Chris Harris's recommendation

[ZM2]

Can anyone confirm if the PSS10 B16's work with the F30/OG M2 style Vorshlag camber plates?

Vorshlag tells me the Bilstein's should have an M12-1.5 thread pitch and should work, but just trying to confirm.

Thanks.

[vrooooom]

How impt to have this car aligned after the install ?

[D.Yooras]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

How impt to have this car aligned after the install ?

Depending on how much it's lowered, anywhere from good idea to very important. Modern cars (most, not all play by these rules) change toe at different rates depending on the suspension design, however they generally go the same direction. When it in bump/compression the front axle usually toes out (negative toe) and the rear toes in (positive toe). With how critical the alignment is on a performance car like an M2/3/4 it's important to make sure it's correct, especially after changing ride height.

Another thing to consider that is very, very commonly missed. When you change the ride height by a significant amount it's also very important to re-clock all the rubber torsion/twist bushings. If this is not done, the bushings will wear prematurely and have odd behavior due to stored energy and binding.

Last but not least, new springs have tendency to settle/sag anywhere from 10-15mm after they are installed and driven. In fact, Audi specifically says not to align any new vehicles until 1,200 miles at a minimum to ensure the vehicles have settled entirely. Most manufacturer's factory alignment would be out of spec on an alignment rack right off the assembly room floor but would be in-spec after a few hundred miles due to intentional shifts built into the factory alignment.

Short story, whether it's lowering springs or adjustable coilovers, build an alignment into the cost of doing it, it'll save you $$$ in the long run and help make the car feel the way it's supposed to.

[vrooooom]

Originally Posted by D.Yooras

Another thing to consider that is very, very commonly missed. When you change the ride height by a significant amount it's also very important to re-clock all the rubber torsion/twist bushings. If this is not done, the bushings will wear prematurely and have odd behavior due to stored energy

May I know how this is re-clock? Which bushing? I don’t think the installer did this.

[vrooooom]

Finally took the leap and had B16 installed. –12mm on all four. Set at 4F and 2R from the shop. Not sure why but I’ll be trying out diff settings when I get a chance anyways.

[ZM2]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

Finally took the leap and had B16 installed. –12mm on all four. Set at 4F and 2R from the shop. Not sure why but I’ll be trying out diff settings when I get a chance anyways.

Awesome, let us know how it goes!

Sounds like all the ride height issues people have been mentioning wasn't a prob?

[vrooooom]

I wouldn’t be too quick to say that. My –12 drop is out of range so likely there’s a trade off. Whether it appears or not and when, I can’t say that just bec you’d see many here doing “as low as it’s going to go”, or as close to stocks as possible. I’m sticking my head out without assurance.

For me so far it’s not night and day. I have very limited seat time though and it’s been city driving only so far.