09-25-2018, 05:53 PM | #111 |
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09-25-2018, 06:19 PM | #112 | |
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09-25-2018, 09:13 PM | #114 |
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The wallet and the wife are getting VERY nervous about the pending M2C!!! You guys make my home life very difficult...
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10-16-2018, 03:57 PM | #115 |
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Anyone painted/obscured the M2C exhaust muffler ?
What are people doing to hide the muffler outback? People have mentioned painting it with high temp paint. Has anyone done this? I assume it would require removing the exhaust to do it properly. Has anyone done it with the exhaust still on the car? Any pictures from anyone? Thanks
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10-16-2018, 03:59 PM | #116 | |
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10-16-2018, 04:25 PM | #117 | ||
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10-16-2018, 07:46 PM | #118 | ||
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10-16-2018, 07:52 PM | #119 |
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Most of the aftermarket options do block it a bit more than stock... but not nearly enough. Painting it seems to be the only option.
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10-16-2018, 08:10 PM | #120 |
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Painting is fine, just be prepared to repaint frequently; or straight pipes ^
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10-16-2018, 08:37 PM | #121 |
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How safe are these paints? The exhaust gets really hot especially on track days. For example, certain parts of the titanium MPE muffler on my M4 turned blue after a few track days due to the heat. VHT Flameproof paint is rated up to 2000 F but I still want to make sure painting the muffler is safe. Last thing I want on the street or on a track day is the paint to catch fire. Again, I wouldn't care if the paint fades away or peels of with the excessive heat but is it safe or is there any chance of fire by any means?
The pic below isn't from my M4 MPE and mine wasn't nearly as bad but posting it just to give an idea how hot these exhausts can get under extreme circumstances (I assume this is after many track days): |
10-16-2018, 09:13 PM | #122 |
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I reeeeeeeeally want to paint mine.... But I'd need to rent a lift.
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10-16-2018, 09:14 PM | #123 | |
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I’m going to polish mine so it is nice and shiny. |
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10-17-2018, 03:45 AM | #125 |
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I think the surface needs to be prepared carefully if you want these high temperature coatings to last. Otherwise just be ready to re-spray every couple years.
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10-17-2018, 05:04 AM | #126 | |
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Before use, carefully read and observe the warning texts on the label! Pre-treating surface: Remove old loose paintwork and rust, then sand Surface should be clean, dry and free of grease. Do not prime! Best results when used on bare metal. Painting: Cover surface not to be treated with masking tape. Shake can for 2 minutes before use. Spray to test compatibility on an inconspicuous area. Spray several thin layers at intervals of ca. 2 minutes. Keep a spraying distance of 25-30 cm. Perfect results can be achieved when the surrounding temperature is ca. 20°C. No primer necessary. The best results will be achieved on bare metal! Leave to dry for 1 hour. Once dry, heat for 1 hour (160°C) so that the lacquer coat hardens. The thinner the coat, the higher the heat resistance. For more information use this link: https://www.motipdupli.com/en/produc...9/tm-1369.html |
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10-17-2018, 07:46 AM | #127 |
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The 2000 degree paints should work fine.
That blue/purple coloring is indicative of temps still well under 1000 degrees. 2000 degrees is glowing bright orange hot, bordering on yellow hot, like out of a blacksmith's forge (well past even red-hot). If your exhaust gets that hot you have other problems, and likely are catching other things on fire.
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10-17-2018, 10:32 AM | #128 | ||
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10-17-2018, 10:42 AM | #129 | |
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10-17-2018, 10:48 AM | #130 |
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I read in a thread somewhere that a guy used a paint brush to apply the paint with good results. He didn't want over spray on his car. It's an interesting thought, I don'k know how well it would turn out though. Anyone try a paint brush application?
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10-17-2018, 02:25 PM | #131 | |
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It doesn’t need to look perfect, just block out the visible bits. |
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10-17-2018, 08:25 PM | #132 | |
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