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      03-01-2017, 08:01 AM   #221
hshot_rooke
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Anyone know if the new model will work the same?
https://www.amazon.ca/Vgate-Support-...ds=vgate+icar3

It's a vGate iCar3 instead of the vGate iCar2. Newer model and a couple of bucks cheaper than the iCar2.
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      03-01-2017, 08:08 AM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hshot_rooke View Post
Anyone know if the new model will work the same?
https://www.amazon.ca/Vgate-Support-...ds=vgate+icar3

It's a vGate iCar3 instead of the vGate iCar2. Newer model and a couple of bucks cheaper than the iCar2.
I personally haven't tried it but for what it's worth the app and the website specifically call for the vgate 2 which uses wifi vs Bluetooth to communicate with your phone. In doing some research there are several comments about Bluetooth connection not being as reliable as wifi when it comes to coding (e.g. You don't want a dropped signal when sending the updated coding information to your car). I didn't want to take a chance on something like this to go wrong.
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      03-01-2017, 08:22 AM   #223
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Weirdly, the Multifunction Buttons and Presets for the current Driver Profile seem to be the only ones that get cleared on our cars.

When I'm going to code the headunit, I switch the Driver Profile to Drive Off. That seems to leave my three "real" Driver Profiles unmolested.

If you want a complete level of assurance, just save your Driver Profiles to a USB drive before coding so you can restore afterward. This is also a great way of keeping your settings the way you like them in multiple cars. For example, my wife and I have very different preferences for Multifunction Buttons and M1 and M2 settings in addition to the obvious things such as seat and mirror positions, HUD settings, climate settings, and the like. Each of us has a profile on the other's car and if one of us readjusts settings in any significant way we just save it to the USB drive that each of us keeps in the glove box, take it to the other car and read it (and save the other's profile to that USB drive while we're at it).
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      03-01-2017, 08:24 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hshot_rooke View Post
Anyone know if the new model will work the same?
https://www.amazon.ca/Vgate-Support-...ds=vgate+icar3

It's a vGate iCar3 instead of the vGate iCar2. Newer model and a couple of bucks cheaper than the iCar2.
The Version 2 is recommended by the developer and is a great device. iOS and Bluetooth connections can be flaky.

Put it this way: Would you want to put any of your ECUs in your car into a lock-out state that means a trailer trip to a dealer to reset for the sake of $2? That's what I thought. Buy the V2.
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      03-01-2017, 08:27 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Em-too View Post
I personally haven't tried it but for what it's worth the app and the website specifically call for the vgate 2 which uses wifi vs Bluetooth to communicate with your phone. In doing some research there are several comments about Bluetooth connection not being as reliable as wifi when it comes to coding (e.g. You don't want a dropped signal when sending the updated coding information to your car). I didn't want to take a chance on something like this to go wrong.
Yeah, the iCar3 has both a BT and a Wifi one. The one I linked to is the Wifi one, I'm assuming it should be compatible.
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      03-01-2017, 08:28 AM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtfields View Post
The problem is the seats are too damn sensitive. A gallon of milk sitting on the passenger seat will activate the seatbelt warning.
My iPhone will set it off.

A gallon of liquid is heavy enough that it does need to be belted in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jtfields View Post
Is that sensitivity codable? It wouldn't bother me to leave the seatbelt chime on if it would only go off with a resonable weight on the seat.
Not that I've seen.

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Originally Posted by DivideBYZero View Post
Looking forward to ID6 lite.
Can't you do custom coding with Bimmercode? ID6 light is just one simple change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twin fed View Post
Change the "Warning Sounds" to "BMW i" It is much softer and not as harsh.
I'm a fan of the Rolls Royce sound set as well.

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Originally Posted by R0ME0 View Post
Do you have the confirmed Euro MDM settings?
This is well-established (at least for M3/4) and is one single change.
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      03-01-2017, 08:31 AM   #227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Em-too View Post
I personally haven't tried it but for what it's worth the app and the website specifically call for the vgate 2 which uses wifi vs Bluetooth to communicate with your phone. In doing some research there are several comments about Bluetooth connection not being as reliable as wifi when it comes to coding (e.g. You don't want a dropped signal when sending the updated coding information to your car). I didn't want to take a chance on something like this to go wrong.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideBYZero View Post
The Version 2 is recommended by the developer and is a great device. iOS and Bluetooth connections can be flaky.

Put it this way: Would you want to put any of your ECUs in your car into a lock-out state that means a trailer trip to a dealer to reset for the sake of $2? That's what I thought. Buy the V2.
Yeah, the iCar3 has both a BT and a Wifi one. The one I linked to is the Wifi one, I'm assuming it should be compatible. It's not the $2 I want to save on, it's the newer model that may provide some future proofing that I'm interested in. I guess I'll get version 2 model...
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      03-01-2017, 11:01 PM   #228
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You don't want version 3. It lacks the on/off button that version 2 has. They made it cheaper to save money.

Version 3 is simply a cheaper product to make than version 2 (thus higher profit margins for the manufacturer).
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      03-02-2017, 08:38 AM   #229
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Thinking about getting one of these to try out, can anyone confirm this is the right model? I've used enet/esys before but my cable is shot, and this looks like a decent alternative.

PS: would appreciate it if anyone who has used it can shoot me a PM on how easy/hard the process is compared to E-sys and what chances of bricking the car are vs the E-sys. Thanks!
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      03-02-2017, 09:21 AM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmzanatta View Post
Thinking about getting one of these to try out, can anyone confirm this is the right model? I've used enet/esys before but my cable is shot, and this looks like a decent alternative.

PS: would appreciate it if anyone who has used it can shoot me a PM on how easy/hard the process is compared to E-sys and what chances of bricking the car are vs the E-sys. Thanks!
That is the correct model and there are NO known reports of anyone bricking anything with BimmerCode.
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      03-02-2017, 09:24 AM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ried View Post
That is the correct model and there are NO known reports of anyone bricking anything with BimmerCode.
Thanks for the reply. I might try and pick this up before the weekend for some tinkering.
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      03-02-2017, 10:26 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmzanatta View Post
Thanks for the reply. I might try and pick this up before the weekend for some tinkering.
I've coded three cars with BimmerCode with no issues.
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      03-02-2017, 06:25 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmzanatta View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ried View Post
That is the correct model and there are NO known reports of anyone bricking anything with BimmerCode.
Thanks for the reply. I might try and pick this up before the weekend for some tinkering.
While coding for the very first time, I lost my connection before it finished
After trying again with one of the automatically created back up files, all was good!
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      03-02-2017, 09:52 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hshot_rooke View Post
Anyone know if the new model will work the same?
https://www.amazon.ca/Vgate-Support-...ds=vgate+icar3

It's a vGate iCar3 instead of the vGate iCar2. Newer model and a couple of bucks cheaper than the iCar2.
I can confirm iCar3 works with Bimmercode.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Em-too View Post
I personally haven't tried it but for what it's worth the app and the website specifically call for the vgate 2 which uses wifi vs Bluetooth to communicate with your phone. In doing some research there are several comments about Bluetooth connection not being as reliable as wifi when it comes to coding (e.g. You don't want a dropped signal when sending the updated coding information to your car). I didn't want to take a chance on something like this to go wrong.
iCar 3 has a wi-fi version that works with the app.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideBYZero View Post
The Version 2 is recommended by the developer and is a great device. iOS and Bluetooth connections can be flaky.

Put it this way: Would you want to put any of your ECUs in your car into a lock-out state that means a trailer trip to a dealer to reset for the sake of $2? That's what I thought. Buy the V2.
Never had lockout issues with iCar3. The issue you describe could happen with iCar2 as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hshot_rooke View Post
Yeah, the iCar3 has both a BT and a Wifi one. The one I linked to is the Wifi one, I'm assuming it should be compatible.
It is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ried View Post
You don't want version 3. It lacks the on/off button that version 2 has. They made it cheaper to save money.

Version 3 is simply a cheaper product to make than version 2 (thus higher profit margins for the manufacturer).
I have 3 and it works perfectly. On/off switch is irrelevant in this situation.
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      03-03-2017, 01:56 AM   #235
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My comment was relating to Bluetooth. Not the v3.
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      03-03-2017, 02:49 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DivideBYZero View Post
My comment was relating to Bluetooth. Not the v3.
Avoid BT. It's low speed and low energy (keeping it simple)... and there'd be more reasons for something to go wrong while coding is in process.
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      03-03-2017, 03:26 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yashar View Post
Avoid BT. It's low speed and low energy (keeping it simple)... and there'd be more reasons for something to go wrong while coding is in process.
Yes, thanks, that was my point, one I've been making in this thread since I started it.
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      03-03-2017, 09:46 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yashar View Post
I have 3 and it works perfectly. On/off switch is irrelevant in this situation.
If you don't mind removing the v3 from your car after each use, sure it's fine. But v2's on/off switch enables you to keep it plugged in and just switch it on/off as appropriate.

Otherwise, they're identical.
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      03-03-2017, 10:01 AM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ried View Post
If you don't mind removing the v3 from your car after each use, sure it's fine. But v2's on/off switch enables you to keep it plugged in and just switch it on/off as appropriate.

Otherwise, they're identical.
Yep, I leave mine in the car and don't have to worry about battery drain.
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      03-03-2017, 02:26 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ried View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by yashar View Post
I have 3 and it works perfectly. On/off switch is irrelevant in this situation.
If you don't mind removing the v3 from your car after each use, sure it's fine. But v2's on/off switch enables you to keep it plugged in and just switch it on/off as appropriate.

Otherwise, they're identical.
I've left mine in for about 2 weeks now. It's not going to drain a 30 something ah battery
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      03-03-2017, 09:41 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yashar View Post
I've left mine in for about 2 weeks now. It's not going to drain a 30 something ah battery
You haven't read the online reviews and complaints about v3.
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      03-04-2017, 09:35 AM   #242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yashar View Post
I've left mine in for about 2 weeks now. It's not going to drain a 30 something ah battery
Is it a hassle to connect and disconnect? Just curious why people keep it connected. It seems like you would connect, code and disconnect.
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