11-22-2017, 10:36 AM | #1 |
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Front Suspension Replacements DIY for F87 and can be used as a guide for F8X and F22 series cars.
TIME approximately 90 minutes TORQUE SPECS I torqued the following bolts as followed(I am not claiming that these are the factory specifications, this is simply what I did. Use at your own discretion.): - Top center 18mm strut nut @ three, 2 second blasts with the impact wrench - Knuckle 16mm pinch bolt @ 35 lb/ft - Sway bar endlink 16mm nut @ 45 lb/ft (once the nut is on tight enough, the threaded T30 torx portion will no longer rotate. - Head light level sensor @ hand tight - Top strut mount bolt (5) @ 20 lb/ft or hand tight - Strut bar E18 bolt @ 25lb/ft or hand tight TOOLS Here are a list of tools I used: - 18mm 12 point deep impact socket (if you cannot find an impact socket, a regular one will probably be fine) - Impact wrench - Two 10mm wrench (If only one is available, you can substitute the other for an adjustable wrench, vice/pliers or 11mm) - Ratchet - 16mm socket - 16mm wrench - E18 socket - T30 Torx - Pry bar - Flat head screwdriver - Spring compressor - Jack [img]https://preview.ibb.co/kD4Rq6/IMG_7189.jpg[/img] PROCEDURES 1. Remove the rubber dust covers from the strut tower mounts using a flat head screwdriver to remove the trim pins. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/kqbd3R/IMG_7108.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/dJmNV6/IMG_7114.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/e8wd3R/IMG_7113.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/g8gpA6/IMG_7115.jpg[/img] 2. Using an impact wrench and the 18mm 12point deep socket, *loosen* the center top strut nut. You will want to leave this nut in place, so *do not* completely remove it from the strut. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/kD32V6/IMG_7116.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/iEOfHm/IMG_7117.jpg[/img] 3. Safely loosen your wheels, jack the front of the vehicle, place on jack stands, and remove the wheels. 4.Using the 16mm wrench and the T30 torx, remove the nut from the sway bar endlink. Separate the endlink from the strut. Note you may use an impact wrench to remove the nut without having to use the T30 torx to hold the endlink bolt/rod in place. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/i0i2V6/IMG_7124.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/newpA6/IMG_7129.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/chn7xm/IMG_7130.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/bAc1OR/IMG_7135.jpg[/img] 5. Using two 10mm wrenches, remove the headlight level sensor from the control arm. One wrench will hold the threaded portion in place while the other wrench will be used to loosen and remove the nut. Note if you only have one 10mm wrench, you may use an adjustable wrench, pliers, or etc. to hold the bolt portion in place. You will only need to do this for the driver side suspension. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/g5Jmq6/IMG_7136.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/cJqcxm/IMG_7138.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/dmbHxm/IMG_7139.jpg[/img] 6. Using a jack, support the suspension using the ball joint area of the lower control arm. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/caheA6/IMG_7143.jpg[/img] 7. Using the 16mm socket and 16mm wrench, loosen and remove the pinch bolt holding the strut to the front hub/knuckle. After, removing the bolt, you will also need to move the wiring bracket out of the way. Note You may use an impact wrench to easier remove the nut/bolt. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/cy4y3R/IMG_7132.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/iUazA6/IMG_7133.jpg[/img] 8. Using the E18 socket, remove the strut bar bolt. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/m1383R/IMG_7144.jpg[/img] 9. Using the 16mm socket, remove all 5 strut mount bolts. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/dAS1OR/IMG_7145.jpg[/img] 10. Slowly lower the car jack supporting the suspension until the top of the strut clears the wheel well. Make sure nothing gets caught or over extended. Pivot the strut out of the wheel well. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/i98KA6/IMG_7146.jpg[/img] 11. Using the prybar, place it in the open slot where the strut sits in the knuckle and apply leverage to release the pinch load from the strut and pull the strut out of the knuckle. Use a jack, box, or wire to prop/support the knuckle so that the wires and brake lines are not over extended. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/d8NUA6/IMG_7148.jpg[/img] Congratulations! Your front strut is now removed! If you are swapping the entire suspension setup for complete coilovers, you may skip to step 15 below. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/kSZLHm/IMG_7149.jpg[/img] 12. Using the spring compressor to safely compress the springs so that it removes the load from the upper strut mounts. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/fTjbq6/IMG_7154.jpg[/img] 13. Using the 18mm 12 point socket again, completely remove the top strut nut from the upper strut mount. Carefully separate the top mounts ensuring that you remember the order in which all the parts were removed. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/mLxwq6/IMG_7112.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/ep2J3R/IMG_7155.jpg[/img] 14. You may now replace whatever you need, whether its the springs, strut, or camber plates. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/iKLMOR/IMG_7157.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/eTw6q6/IMG_7159.jpg[/img] 15. Assemble everything in reverse order. Note - When inserting the strut into the knuckle, there is an indexing pin that should align with the open slot where you previous inserted the prybar. [img]https://preview.ibb.co/hsDVHm/IMG_7161.jpg[/img] Your front suspension is now complete! [img]https://preview.ibb.co/c1nPcm/IMG_7168.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/b4O83R/IMG_7166.jpg[/img] [img]https://preview.ibb.co/kTM6q6/IMG_7194.jpg[/img] Rear spring replacement DIY to follow.
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[/url] F87 M2 Performance Edition - 2017-current F15 X5 35d - 2014-2017 E36 M3 - 2009-2016 Last edited by emdeuce; 11-22-2017 at 08:07 PM.. |
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11-22-2017, 10:57 AM | #2 |
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Thanks for the write up but lord almighty, what color are your calipers?
Looks like they need a good clean or a repaint. |
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NYC Bimmer259.50 |
11-22-2017, 10:57 AM | #3 |
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. The one thing i use to do differently was buy a strut tool to open the pinch bolt area in step 11 vs the prybar. The tool is elongated socket so you can turn it and it props open the knuckle area... makes it effortless. I typically donthat before unscrewing the strug from ghr strut tower... . Im all about lazy.
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11-22-2017, 11:06 AM | #4 |
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LOL! Right after I did this, I gave the a nice cleaning. Oem brake ust is ridiculous...
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11-22-2017, 11:07 AM | #5 | |
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11-22-2017, 07:37 PM | #7 | |
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Here you go... Strut spreader tool https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...iABEgJztfD_BwE https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...SABEgJX0vD_BwE |
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12-26-2017, 07:35 AM | #8 |
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here's my diy video
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12-26-2017, 09:47 AM | #10 |
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I've been meaning to update the DIY with rear strut/spring replacement. Its is not as simple or easy as the fronts, but definitely doable.
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01-12-2018, 12:05 AM | #11 |
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I plan on doing a coilovers install myself and am wondering if it's ok to let the front control arms hang that low when pulling the strut out.
Should the bushing bolts be loosened so they can move freely and not get damaged? Also for the rear, is it ok to just push the control arm down to pop the spring out or is that going to damage the bushing? |
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10-23-2018, 03:07 AM | #12 |
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Thanks for taking the time to post this. I am finally going to get around to installing my camber plates next week. I have done struts on my E90 in the past, this is the same procedure but its nice to know that going into a project.
How do you like the GC camber plates? |
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10-24-2018, 05:44 PM | #13 | |
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07-24-2019, 09:25 AM | #14 |
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Looking at this installation. There seems like there was some additional steps not needed to be done.
You do not need to remove the front top strut mount if you are not replacing this with a new one. And watching other DIY's with M3/M4's you do not need a spring compressor also. You can just jackup the lower control arm to release some tension from the front coil and unscrew the single top nut. Once you unscrew this top nut you can lower the jack and remove the coilover this way. 14:06 starts when the front coil is getting removed
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07-24-2019, 12:37 PM | #15 | |
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08-03-2019, 02:28 AM | #16 | |
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How do they compare with the oem MPerf springs ?
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