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      05-24-2020, 08:10 PM   #23
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I'm gonna take it in on Tuesday and I'm praying since my cars still runs it's just a minor and not catastrophic engine failure. I'll keep you guys posted
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      05-24-2020, 08:34 PM   #24
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Sorry to hear this is happening to you. With all these SCH I’ve made up my mind not to tune my car.
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      05-24-2020, 08:42 PM   #25
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Sorry to hear this is happening to you. With all these SCH I've made up my mind not to tune my car.
If you do tune it, go with a tune with a warranty. To be fair, OP's tune was pretty aggressive (high 500s to the wheels and over 600 to the crank). This is significantly more than other stage 1 tunes (what I imagine is what the average person tunes with) and warrantied tunes.
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      05-24-2020, 09:44 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
If you do tune it, go with a tune with a warranty. To be fair, OP's tune was pretty aggressive (high 500s to the wheels and over 600 to the crank). This is significantly more than other stage 1 tunes (what I imagine is what the average person tunes with) and warrantied tunes.
So just emailed both vargas turbo and performance technic for a cost estimate as I'm getting news from 10-20hrs to install and time. Anyone in the Bay area have this done? As they say you have to pay to play
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      05-24-2020, 09:52 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
If you do tune it, go with a tune with a warranty. To be fair, OP's tune was pretty aggressive (high 500s to the wheels and over 600 to the crank). This is significantly more than other stage 1 tunes (what I imagine is what the average person tunes with) and warrantied tunes.
So just emailed both vargas turbo and performance technic for a cost estimate as I'm getting news from 10-20hrs to install and time. Anyone in the Bay area have this done? As they say you have to pay to play
That sounds right. Last I recall, I read that it would be something like 2-4K all in depending on per hour labor rate.
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      05-24-2020, 10:12 PM   #28
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Yeah Tony just responded back and said $3500 cash or $4k paying with credit card and that is price otd all inclusive
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      05-24-2020, 10:23 PM   #29
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Yeah that looks like a spun crank hub to me (M2 or M2C?), and the worst part of it is if you don't clear the codes you will likely have a higher chance of tuner codes being present which would indicate to your dealer that you were modded and thus no warranty. If you do delete the codes then you wont have proof and you might need to start the car again to get the codes, but if you were to start the car you risk blowing up the motor and if indeed hidden codes were present that cannot be cleared regardless of what software you are using then you will be in even more trouble if you now blew the motor and whereas you just had a spun hub before.

Edit- I hope you get it sorted out OP.
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      05-24-2020, 10:30 PM   #30
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Yeah Tony just responded back and said $3500 cash or $4k paying with credit card and that is price otd all inclusive
They cannot legally charge you a surcharge for using a credit card. Especially not in California.
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      05-24-2020, 10:36 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
They cannot legally charge you a surcharge for using a credit card. Especially not in California.
Discounts for cash are allowed, however.
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      05-24-2020, 10:46 PM   #32
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They cannot legally charge you a surcharge for using a credit card. Especially not in California.
Discounts for cash are allowed, however.
As long as you phrase that way, and make it a common practice. Good luck arguing that in court however if the CA AG wants to come after you. And if the CC card finds out, you can say bye to being able to process credit card charges directly due to violating the payment card rules.

But this is another conversation for another time. Just wanted to say generally, that surcharges are illegal, and consumers should always push back then decide for themselves whether or not to proceed with the transaction. Either way, a $500 difference (discount) is absolutely a shady practice. $5-10 maybe. But that much of a difference would make me walk away and never do business with that shop. That's just me though, so if OP wants to proceed no harm no foul, I know the shop he is talking about at least does good work.
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      05-24-2020, 11:20 PM   #33
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Well more than likely I'll just be going to performance technic since they're just a couple of miles away from my house. I can drive the car there as it still starts and drive very slowly. The price difference from performance twchnic and Vargas turbo would probably be the amount it would take to have it towed to Vargas shop as its about a 15-20min drive on the hwy and in no way am I driving hwy speeds in this condition.
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      05-24-2020, 11:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post
Well more than likely I'll just be going to performance technic since they're just a couple of miles away from my house. I can drive the car there as it still starts and drive very slowly. The price difference from performance twchnic and Vargas turbo would probably be the amount it would take to have it towed to Vargas shop as its about a 15-20min drive on the hwy and in no way am I driving hwy speeds in this condition.
I would tow it to Vargas and have them do the whole thing....
Supply their product and installed by them would give me 100% peace of mind and warranty too.
That way if anything goes wrong who can they blame 🤷🏽*♂️
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      05-24-2020, 11:51 PM   #35
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Anyone able to distinguish Carbahn Autoworks Keyed Crank Hub vs vtt?
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      05-24-2020, 11:56 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tricki View Post
I would tow it to Vargas and have them do the whole thing....
Supply their product and installed by them would give me 100% peace of mind and warranty too.
That way if anything goes wrong who can they blame 🤷🏽*♂️
You may have a point there I've just had lots of work done in the past at performance technic since my turbo upgrade on my og m2 and they're just 5mins away from my house.
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      05-24-2020, 11:57 PM   #37
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Anyone able to distinguish Carbahn Autoworks Keyed Crank Hub vs vtt?
The Carbahn option requires drilling of the crank to get the pins on the keyed crank hub to be inserted, the VTT option uses a splined design so no drilling is required and thus less labor is need for the VTT option.

On the V1 of the VTT spline lock hub the threads were spiraled in efforts to make it bite in more when the hub slips but that design was not so effective, with V2 the splines are straight and even more aggressive meaning the hub must be pressed in for install immediately cutting splines into the crank making it 100% effective. There is also proof and images of the splines of the V2 splock cutting into the crank on the other forum, and so far is seems to be working well.

You will also need a CBC to prevent the bolt from vibrating out, which is another issue that can cause the hub to spin.
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      05-25-2020, 12:53 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer28312 View Post
Well more than likely I'll just be going to performance technic since they're just a couple of miles away from my house. I can drive the car there as it still starts and drive very slowly. The price difference from performance twchnic and Vargas turbo would probably be the amount it would take to have it towed to Vargas shop as its about a 15-20min drive on the hwy and in no way am I driving hwy speeds in this condition.
At the end of the day it's your decision but I would NOT even let the car idle in its current condition. Doesn't matter if PTech is a short 5min drive or even just across the street. I don't think it's worth risking a catastrophic failure. Whichever shop you decide to go with, just get it towed.
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      05-25-2020, 01:29 AM   #39
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At the end of the day it's your decision but I would NOT even let the car idle in its current condition. Doesn't matter if PTech is a short 5min drive or even just across the street. I don't think it's worth risking a catastrophic failure. Whichever shop you decide to go with, just get it towed.
Well to many pros leaning towards Vargas's shop so since they produce the product I am now leaning towards them fixing it all. My only worry is that my problem can be bigger than what it seems regardless of the car starting and being able to drive it around the block with no issue (still having the malfunction present) and the shop doing the work anyways knowing the damage. Yeah I don't trust anyone
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      05-25-2020, 07:51 AM   #40
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Have you even had the car diagnosed yet? Prepare for the worst sure, but we don’t even know the issue yet.
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      05-25-2020, 11:16 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLaren720s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
I have no substantial data to back this up, but it sounds like Carbahn was right when they say 600+ at the crank is when you increase the chance of hitting the failure point for these engines re SCH. I say from your other thread that you are pretty north of that to the crank (slightly under to the wheels).

I'm bummed this happened to you, and hope it's an inexpensive fix.
I believe you are correct, hence why I also mentioned in my post that they advise torque to the wheels to be kept around 500wtq / low 500's so that crank torque doesn't exceed 600tq.

The problem is that even some stock S55 engines have had the SCH, even though admittedly that is very very rare. Alas, the percentage of failure definitely increases dramatically among tuned cars.
The SCH (Spun Crank Hub) trigger of a stock S55 car seems to be the combination of DCT and Kickdown mode.
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      05-25-2020, 11:50 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisK View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by McLaren720s View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thescout13 View Post
I have no substantial data to back this up, but it sounds like Carbahn was right when they say 600+ at the crank is when you increase the chance of hitting the failure point for these engines re SCH. I say from your other thread that you are pretty north of that to the crank (slightly under to the wheels).

I'm bummed this happened to you, and hope it's an inexpensive fix.
I believe you are correct, hence why I also mentioned in my post that they advise torque to the wheels to be kept around 500wtq / low 500's so that crank torque doesn't exceed 600tq.

The problem is that even some stock S55 engines have had the SCH, even though admittedly that is very very rare. Alas, the percentage of failure definitely increases dramatically among tuned cars.
The SCH (Spun Crank Hub) trigger of a stock S55 car seems to be the combination of DCT and Kickdown mode.
Tuning with any substantial torque more than factory tune is worrisome. I know some have happened on factory tune but once you mod with bm3 or others forget warranty work as all of that data is stored in FASTA. So if you spin even if flash back they'll not only see number of times DME flashed but boost, rpm, fueling, etc. it's like a NTSB black box that BMW HQ can get at if requested by obtaining files from dealer for repair before authorizing. So yes pay to play.
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      05-25-2020, 05:49 PM   #43
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Quote:
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The SCH (Spun Crank Hub) trigger of a stock S55 car seems to be the combination of DCT and Kickdown mode.
The OP has a manual. And the poll survey on the M3/4 forums of cars that have had a SCH shows that tuned cars have dramatically increased chances of SCH.
There are more cars with DCTs than manuals out there and I think that’s why it looks like DCT is a factor. I would say the increased power is a higher factor than transmission type...along with a flawed design by BMW.
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      05-25-2020, 11:15 PM   #44
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The sch is def due to increase power. I wasn't driving my car any different. Manual or dct it doesn't matter
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