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      11-03-2020, 01:27 PM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gizmo 335i View Post
Appreciate the summary and links. Well done. Just one question. The photos in the link for the hood insulation show a number of other parts in addition to the pad and clips. Are any of these items required or do I just need the padding and clips?
If you mean the photo on real oem I think part #19 is the relevant part in that diagram (the actual insulation) everything else is for hood assembly and should (to my knowledge) already be on the car. For example, I can make out the hinges.

If you're looking at a different diagram I can take a look at it and see. To my knowledge we just need the insulation and the clips (still waiting on mine).
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      11-03-2020, 01:41 PM   #376
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Originally Posted by m3username View Post
If you mean the photo on real oem I think part #19 is the relevant part in that diagram (the actual insulation) everything else is for hood assembly and should (to my knowledge) already be on the car. For example, I can make out the hinges.

If you're looking at a different diagram I can take a look at it and see. To my knowledge we just need the insulation and the clips (still waiting on mine).
I was looking at the diagram on GetBMWParts.
https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...ad-51487221993 .
On that diagram the insulation is part #4 but there are other items that are likely part of the hood system as you pointed out. Thanks. I hope we ordered the right stuff.
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      11-07-2020, 02:43 AM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeese View Post
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Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb View Post
I'm not the most handy around my car - are there any instructions on how to remove the side panels to installed the side plates? I did try a forum search but couldn't find such.
Start with the post below and see if this has the info. you need.
Removing C pillar Trim
As I recall, once I had an inkling of where to pry with my fingers to release one or more fasterners, it was simply a matter of gauging resistance. A light touch, but not too light.
Hi Zeese - thanks again for the guide to remove the trim for installing the side plates.. just to clarify (as i didn't see anything mentioned in the link you sent), do the back seats need to be removed for the installation of the side plates? As a guide of effort on this, how long should it take to install the plate on one side of the car?
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      11-07-2020, 09:37 PM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb View Post
Hi Zeese - thanks again for the guide to remove the trim for installing the side plates.. just to clarify (as i didn't see anything mentioned in the link you sent), do the back seats need to be removed for the installation of the side plates? As a guide of effort on this, how long should it take to install the plate on one side of the car?
Thanks for being patient. Clearly, I am being forgetful with the details.

I did not remove the back seat.
I think I removed the C pillar trim.

The side panel?
Code:
Important! Risk of damage!
Lower section of side trim panel may separate from side trim panel upper section.

Detach edge protection (1) in area of side trim panel (3).
Release side trim panel (3) from clip (2) and clamps (4) and remove it.
Installation note:
Replace faulty clips (2) and clamps (4).
It takes no time at all to install the plates. A small number of plastic pins. What did take awhile, was forming a gasket (w/ electrical tape) so that the metal pans would not rattle against the body. Seems like a good idea would be to use some Form-A-Gasket. If the seal is not complete, on the inside of the pan, then I would also tape (seal) the perimeter.
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      11-08-2020, 12:25 AM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeese View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb View Post
Hi Zeese - thanks again for the guide to remove the trim for installing the side plates.. just to clarify (as i didn't see anything mentioned in the link you sent), do the back seats need to be removed for the installation of the side plates? As a guide of effort on this, how long should it take to install the plate on one side of the car?
Thanks for being patient. Clearly, I am being forgetful with the details.

I did not remove the back seat.
I think I removed the C pillar trim.

The side panel?
Code:
Important! Risk of damage!
Lower section of side trim panel may separate from side trim panel upper section.

Detach edge protection (1) in area of side trim panel (3).
Release side trim panel (3) from clip (2) and clamps (4) and remove it.
Installation note:
Replace faulty clips (2) and clamps (4).
It takes no time at all to install the plates. A small number of plastic pins. What did take awhile, was forming a gasket (w/ electrical tape) so that the metal pans would not rattle against the body. Seems like a good idea would be to use some Form-A-Gasket. If the seal is not complete, on the inside of the pan, then I would also tape (seal) the perimeter.
Thanks so much again Zeese - very much appreciated.. will give this a try in the upcoming weeks and will report back with how it goes!
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      11-13-2020, 09:13 PM   #380
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Hey Zeese ,

I'm trying to put in the trunk insulation but I'm having a hell of a time removing that round circular rubber thing on the drivers side rear fender well. Any strategies you recommend?

Edit: Just checked all the pictures, for future reference, everyone cuts because they can't remove the rubber plug thingy with wires in it.

Last edited by m3username; 11-14-2020 at 12:23 PM..
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      11-18-2020, 01:38 AM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb View Post
Thanks so much again Zeese - very much appreciated.. will give this a try in the upcoming weeks and will report back with how it goes!
I used some sound deadener and applied it like tape over the seams. Works great.

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=356
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      11-25-2020, 11:03 PM   #382
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Okay, completely finished with the install and finally had a chance to get past 65 on the freeway. The difference is pretty remarkable, before I would have to yell to have a conversation at speed, now it's a talking volume. A lot of noise is reduced.

Being willing to cut the insulation during the install made life a lot easier. There are a couple spots that are down-right unrealistic to remove and reinstall the component. Towards the end I was cutting it down to the shape I needed. No need to remove the c-pillars, trim panels can come on/off without it.

All in all the easiest car interior I've ever worked on, just make sure to have a few panel tools on hand and a willingness to research how things come apart.
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      12-29-2020, 07:05 AM   #383
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On those rear lateral trim panels, they are concave with another concave section. Did any of you notice what goes in the concave areas? Would it be possible to simply build this panel (cover the big hole) with homemade MLV and/or CLD pieces?
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      12-29-2020, 11:40 AM   #384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snrubel View Post
On those rear lateral trim panels, they are concave with another concave section. Did any of you notice what goes in the concave areas? Would it be possible to simply build this panel (cover the big hole) with homemade MLV and/or CLD pieces?
Do you mean the holes under the trim pieces on the left and right sides of the back seat?

You can definitely build a panel instead of ordering the OEM one, I think the benefit of the OEM one is that it's shaped to get rid of any resonance that would occur for a flat panel but if you're loaded up with MLV/CLD it probably wouldn't be an issue.
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      12-29-2020, 10:23 PM   #385
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https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1600986769

Yes, I mean the metal panels you order to fill in the holes beside the rear seats. It’s an oddly shaped panel, so I’m wondering if something fits in that space or if the engineers made it concave to change the resonant frequencies.

My M2 has not been pulled apart yet, so I can’t physically see what’s there. Filling this hole with MLV and/or CLD and applying bonded acoustic cotton and/or hydrophobic melamine foam to the cavity behind it should reduce noise there materially.

Another comment: many here are ordering the rear sound insulating panels. It looks like the insulation there is typical BMW ~3/4” acoustic cotton with a compressed scrim layer for maintaining shape. Have any of you simply made your own insulating panel with a sheet of 1” acoustic cotton? Or a combination of MLV and an absorber?
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      12-30-2020, 01:51 PM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snrubel View Post
Another comment: many here are ordering the rear sound insulating panels. It looks like the insulation there is typical BMW ~3/4” acoustic cotton with a compressed scrim layer for maintaining shape. Have any of you simply made your own insulating panel with a sheet of 1” acoustic cotton? Or a combination of MLV and an absorber?
I didn't bother but you are correct, as I was doing the install I was thinking that any sound deadening material really could have been used. The benefit the preformed shape is lost a bit with the need to cut in some locations and remove components in others.
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      01-01-2021, 02:42 PM   #387
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sound deadening

To those who have installed the sound deadening material under the front hood, any issues with heat or ventilation? The cut out on the underside of the hood seems to fit the area of top of the engine well. Unsure if there will be an issue if I re-install the under hood insulation piece.

Purchased the parts to reinstall all of the sound deadening material as noted previously in this post and was getting ready to the install when I notice the above which generated my question.

Thanks in advance for input,
Sean
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      01-01-2021, 03:08 PM   #388
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Should note that I have a M2 C. Unsure if the S55 sits higher than the N55 or has increased ventilation requirements. Thanks again
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      01-01-2021, 03:33 PM   #389
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No issues with the hood blanket on my M2C.
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      01-02-2021, 10:50 AM   #390
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On the ventilation questions, guys this is a liquid cooled engine, not air cooled. The radiators cool the engine; ventilation is only relevant as it pertains to venting the radiators.

Question: I’m really struggling with removing the rear trunk plastic trim panel after taking out the four pins. What’s the trick with working around the trunk weather seal, which seems to have a ferocious grip!

Yes, the carpets will come out without removing it, but I’m doing my own sound insulation work instead of using oem pads, so test fitting would be easier with it out.
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      01-02-2021, 11:37 AM   #391
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Very good point about it being a liquid cooled engine. However I assume there needs to be sufficient clearance above the engine as well. Excessive heat or fire hazard? Just don't want to create a larger problem by not thinking it through. May be analysis paralysis on my part

As for your question (@snrubel) I have not done the trunk/rear area yet but would be happy to comment when I get there. Probably several weeks off due to work and not wanting to work in a very cold garage.

Thanks
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      01-04-2021, 02:06 PM   #392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snrubel View Post
Question: I’m really struggling with removing the rear trunk plastic trim panel after taking out the four pins. What’s the trick with working around the trunk weather seal, which seems to have a ferocious grip!
Pull the weatherstrip seal around the middle where the trunk latch is, pull up and a little out, it will pop off. To get it back in you have to slide it back on, you may have a challenge with the spot by the trunk latch because there's a seam in the seal. I found stretching the seal at this point thinned it out enough that I could fit it on.

I hated this part, it's definitely not something you want to do a lot if you can avoid it.
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      01-07-2021, 11:05 AM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snrubel View Post

Question: I’m really struggling with removing the rear trunk plastic trim panel after taking out the four pins. What’s the trick with working around the trunk weather seal, which seems to have a ferocious grip!

Yes, the carpets will come out without removing it, but I’m doing my own sound insulation work instead of using oem pads, so test fitting would be easier with it out.
I think you could pull the rear trunk plastic panel without removing the seal but it would be a PIA to get it back in under the seal plus you really have to remove the seal to get the side panels off. For the seal, I found it easier to start pulled it from the corner just after the tail light so you are pulling it sideway and up. Once you get it started, it all comes off pretty easy. I put a piece of tape on the seal and the back window to mark its original location for putting it back (not sure it made a big difference but you know, piece of mind).

Once the seal if off, I found pulling the plastic panel out and up from the bottom works best. I've had it off like 4 times now and pulling from the bottom is the way to go, there really is nothing else holding it as far as I can tell.

Putting the seal back on requires a smooth trim tool and a rubber mallet. Look at it before you remove it, there is a part that is shaped for the metal lip (П) and a flap for going over the side panels and plastic panel, I found it easier to do the side panels as I install the seal but I put the plastic panel on last and tucked it under by pulled the flap back with my fingers.

In addition to the acoustic cotton, I put Kilmat Car Sound Deadening (cheaper than Dynamat on Amazon) on the body where the metal was still exposed.
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      02-03-2021, 08:44 PM   #394
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So-- I have the two trunk pieces, two wheel arch pieces, and the two metal pieces for the door side panels.

Since the TIS site is no longer with us, I stopped by the body shop that painted/installed my Euro-spec bumper to get an estimate. I figured that since most people who've done this have done it in 3-4 hours it would be somewhere in this ballpark. Since I can't access TIS and don't know how the body comes apart, I figured "Why not?"

The answer? FOURTEEN HOURS of labor.

I was a little shocked, as I was thinking somewhere around six, tops.

Now, I guess I have to figure out how to do this on my own when I get a free day-- and who knows when that'll be?

Sigh. And I *like* that body shop-- they do good work.

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      02-03-2021, 09:50 PM   #395
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cover for side sections, left and right

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
..., and the two metal pieces for the door side panels.
These? Similar the OG M2 #6 below?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...02#41007294289

If yes, these are not such a chore. Patience. Maybe an hour. I was not comfortable with the plastic pins for the installation. Gaps and rattles? Some sort of tape or caulk or weatherstrip adhesive works. I made this harder than it had to be by declaring victory too early. Even then, it did not take long to get the trim pieces back in place correctly.

Fourteen hours! Crazy ...
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      02-03-2021, 09:52 PM   #396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeese View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by flybigjet View Post
..., and the two metal pieces for the door side panels.
These? Similar the OG M2 #6 below?
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...02#41007294289

If yes, these are not such a chore. Patience. Maybe an hour. I was not comfortable with the plastic pins for the installation. Gaps and rattles? Some sort of tape or caulk or weatherstrip adhesive works. I made this harder than it had to be by declaring victory too early. Even then, it did not take long to get the trim pieces back in place correctly.

Fourteen hours! Crazy ...
I'm looking to do the install of these two plates. Does any other trim (e.g. c pillar, rear seats etc.) have to come for those main side panels to be removed?
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