[Tes]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Why would you care how hot it gets? It's there to collect anything that the engine vents, rather than feeding it back into the inlet tract where deposits might restrict airflow. If it doesn't create oily odours in the interior, I'm not seeing a problem if it evaporates compared to being (partially) burnt and vented via the exhaust...

I don't care how hot it gets. I'm saying anything that would have condensed in the OCC would weather off due to the hot temperatures and end up in the intake track anyways. My point is if it was at a cooler location in the engine bay, there might be a better chance of the OCC actually catching oil.

[M Fifty]

You want to stop it going into the intake. It's directed into the OCC, where it 'may' evaporate. At that point it's not going into the intake, so aside from oil fumes in the interior - you don't care...

[F87source]

Well in regards to high temperature of the occ it is a concern with how well it will pull the oil out of the air stream via condensation. This is why really good baffling is critical, with a radium engineering or turner can they use alot of baffling or steel wool mesh and alot of air flow direction changes. This in effect forces the air to turn alot of corners and since oil droplets in the air stream cannot corner as fast as air they drop out of suspension, the baffled will also force the air to go through tight gaps also forcing the oil out of suspension.


Now once out of suspension and in the can it's not going anywhere, the temperature for oil to volatilize is like 300C which your oil catch can will not get to. What will volatilize is the water, and fuel vapors that were caught. The water vapors getting sucked back into the engine is fine, but the fuel vapors might be an issue because gasoline when it evaporates leaves a gum behind. I don't think this is going to be much of a problem because when oil mixes with gasoline it forms that sludge in the can, so it's unlikely for the additives that is left in the gas at that point to be able to leave any deposits/gum. This is also why you should use good gas.


Now, why should you run the can hot vs. cold? If any of you winter drive your car this is critical. Almost all Subaru oil catch cans are located in the hottest part of the engine bay and even have coolant lines running to then to heat the can up. This is so the baffles inside along with the hoses don't clog up when the water freezes in the can. This will effectively block up the pcv system and that's bad news. This issue is more prevalent on Subarus because of the open hood scoop, but if you have the car really far forward in the engine bay and you're driving highway speeds in the winter, it actually does get really cold in that area.


So your best bet imo is just to get a can with excellent air flow manipulation and good baffling and you'll be fine regardless of temperature that the can reaches. If you winter drive your car mount it some place hot.


I personally was going to utilize the turner catch can (I did a ton of research on this can and it was the best bolt in solution ATM, the only better option imo is a radium can and a bunch of custom bracketry and hoses), but since my car seems to bit have an issue with ocv vapors I decided to opt out.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

Well in regards to high temperature of the occ it is a concern with how well it will pull the oil out of the air stream via condensation. This is why really good baffling is critical, with a radium engineering or turner can they use alot of baffling or steel wool mesh and alot of air flow direction changes. This in effect forces the air to turn alot of corners and since oil droplets in the air stream cannot corner as fast as air they drop out of suspension, the baffled will also force the air to go through tight gaps also forcing the oil out of suspension.


Now once out of suspension and in the can it's not going anywhere, the temperature for oil to volatilize is like 300C which your oil catch can will not get to. What will volatilize is the water, and fuel vapors that were caught. The water vapors getting sucked back into the engine is fine, but the fuel vapors might be an issue because gasoline when it evaporates leaves a gum behind. I don't think this is going to be much of a problem because when oil mixes with gasoline it forms that sludge in the can, so it's unlikely for the additives that is left in the gas at that point to be able to leave any deposits/gum. This is also why you should use good gas.


Now, why should you run the can hot vs. cold? If any of you winter drive your car this is critical. Almost all Subaru oil catch cans are located in the hottest part of the engine bay and even have coolant lines running to then to heat the can up. This is so the baffles inside along with the hoses don't clog up when the water freezes in the can. This will effectively block up the pcv system and that's bad news. This issue is more prevalent on Subarus because of the open hood scoop, but if you have the car really far forward in the engine bay and you're driving highway speeds in the winter, it actually does get really cold in that area.


So your best bet imo is just to get a can with excellent air flow manipulation and good baffling and you'll be fine regardless of temperature that the can reaches. If you winter drive your car mount it some place hot.


I personally was going to utilize the turner catch can (I did a ton of research on this can and it was the best bolt in solution ATM, the only better option imo is a radium can and a bunch of custom bracketry and hoses), but since my car seems to bit have an issue with ocv vapors I decided to opt out.

I looked at my charge pipe again and what I saw was assembly grease as you had previously suggested

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

I looked at my charge pipe again and what I saw was assembly grease as you had previously suggested

Yup there's alot of that in the o-rings areas. So that's what I was suspecting that "oil" was. In that case you likely don't need an oil catch can either. Just make sure you check the intercooler.


You can also run a piece of toilet paper or tissue paper l, something that's white inside the pipe to see if you collect any oil. If not you really are good to go w/o a can.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

Yup there's alot of that in the o-rings areas. So that's what I was suspecting that "oil" was. In that case you likely don't need an oil catch can either. Just make sure you check the intercooler.


You can also run a piece of toilet paper or tissue paper l, something that's white inside the pipe to see if you collect any oil. If not you really are good to go w/o a can.

Yes indeed

IF I buy one it will probably be from Turner

[ming_lau]

Originally Posted by F87source

Well in regards to high temperature of the occ it is a concern with how well it will pull the oil out of the air stream via condensation. This is why really good baffling is critical, with a radium engineering or turner can they use alot of baffling or steel wool mesh and alot of air flow direction changes. This in effect forces the air to turn alot of corners and since oil droplets in the air stream cannot corner as fast as air they drop out of suspension, the baffled will also force the air to go through tight gaps also forcing the oil out of suspension.


Now once out of suspension and in the can it's not going anywhere, the temperature for oil to volatilize is like 300C which your oil catch can will not get to. What will volatilize is the water, and fuel vapors that were caught. The water vapors getting sucked back into the engine is fine, but the fuel vapors might be an issue because gasoline when it evaporates leaves a gum behind. I don't think this is going to be much of a problem because when oil mixes with gasoline it forms that sludge in the can, so it's unlikely for the additives that is left in the gas at that point to be able to leave any deposits/gum. This is also why you should use good gas.


Now, why should you run the can hot vs. cold? If any of you winter drive your car this is critical. Almost all Subaru oil catch cans are located in the hottest part of the engine bay and even have coolant lines running to then to heat the can up. This is so the baffles inside along with the hoses don't clog up when the water freezes in the can. This will effectively block up the pcv system and that's bad news. This issue is more prevalent on Subarus because of the open hood scoop, but if you have the car really far forward in the engine bay and you're driving highway speeds in the winter, it actually does get really cold in that area.


So your best bet imo is just to get a can with excellent air flow manipulation and good baffling and you'll be fine regardless of temperature that the can reaches. If you winter drive your car mount it some place hot.


I personally was going to utilize the turner catch can (I did a ton of research on this can and it was the best bolt in solution ATM, the only better option imo is a radium can and a bunch of custom bracketry and hoses), but since my car seems to bit have an issue with ocv vapors I decided to opt out.

That is some great info well put together. Thanks!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ming_lau

That is some great info well put together. Thanks!

I had a super detailed write up for the turner can, but It ended up not working out.

[tenkies]

I like the Turner OCC and how well it fits into the engine bay, but definitely not a pure plug and play If you want to use your engine cover. You can see where the cover was trimmed and I installed an edge guard. I just did my oil change this weekend and like others have said I didn't see anything in the can after couple thousand miles.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by tenkies

I like the Turner OCC and how well it fits into the engine bay, but definitely not a pure plug and play If you want to use your engine cover. You can see where the cover was trimmed and I installed an edge guard. I just did my oil change this weekend and like others have said I didn't see anything in the can after couple thousand miles.

Nice !

Are you running a drain hose ?

[tenkies]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

Nice !

Are you running a drain hose ?

I'm running a drain hose that comes out near the passenger side wheel well where the reinforcement belly pan ends

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by tenkies

I'm running a drain hose that comes out near the passenger side wheel well where the reinforcement belly pan ends

If there is anyway of showing me where it routes or ends I'd appreciate it

I can see why you did that

Definitely a good move

[tenkies]

Honestly though it would probably be faster to just unscrew the canister from the mount instead of getting under the car and messing with the drain line

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by tenkies

Honestly though it would probably be faster to just unscrew the canister from the mount instead of getting under the car and messing with the drain line

Probably is actually

[F87source]

Originally Posted by tenkies

Honestly though it would probably be faster to just unscrew the canister from the mount instead of getting under the car and messing with the drain line

Hoses are in the way, it's best to get the drain hose if you don't want to disassemble a bunch of stuff. Then when you change your oil you can drain the can.

[tenkies]

Originally Posted by F87source

Hoses are in the way, it's best to get the drain hose if you don't want to disassemble a bunch of stuff. Then when you change your oil you can drain the can.

It's only 2 screws for the bracket. Take off the bracket and you can access the canister pretty easy

[M Fifty]

Why not just run a hose straight from the crankcase breather down to the passenger side wheel well where the reinforcement belly pan ends?

As you may have gathered by now, I'm having some trouble with the need for a catch can on an N55 engine. But then, I also own a car with an M54 engine and that breathes 'quite hard' - particularly if I drive down steep hills in low gears with the throttle shut. So, if the breather isn't attached to manifold vacuum, remarkably little vapour is going to be drawn out of the engine. But excess crankcase pressure will still vent.

HTH

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Why not just run a hose straight from the crankcase breather down to the passenger side wheel well where the reinforcement belly pan ends?

As you may have gathered by now, I'm having some trouble with the need for a catch can on an N55 engine. But then, I also own a car with an M54 engine and that breathes 'quite hard' - particularly if I drive down steep hills in low gears with the throttle shut. So, if the breather isn't attached to manifold vacuum, remarkably little vapour is going to be drawn out of the engine. But excess crankcase pressure will still vent.

HTH

Because the n55 has a vaccum sensor, if you vent straight to atmosphere without tapping and plugging the head ports you'll get a CEL. And if you tap and plug the head ports you'll need to also open the oil can and vent that way because we have a 2 stage pcv system - vaccumn and boost activated, and the valve cover pcv system only covers 1 of those 2, thus you must open the oil cap (preferably with the pcv vent caps) to take care of both pcv venting methods.

[M Fifty]

Useful to know.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Useful to know.

Yeah lol, so don't be opening the oil cap or venting the pcv lines without doing the afforementioned steps or else there will at minimum be a CEL (venting the pcv hose without doing anything else), and at worst be a blown valve cover if you plug the head ports without opening the oil filter cap to vent the blow by gasses.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by tenkies

It's only 2 screws for the bracket. Take off the bracket and you can access the canister pretty easy

you can't reach that firewall bolt (it's also hard to get a socket on it too) unless the can top is off, and that can't be done with the can bottom still on.