05-07-2022, 01:49 AM | #1 |
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Featured on BIMMERPOST.com Anybody else have theirs touching? Thanks for the input
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Last edited by ///M TOWN; 05-07-2022 at 02:01 AM.. |
05-07-2022, 02:14 AM | #2 | |
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However the bend radius is not extremely tight (it is bent but not too too badly), and since the water pump and turbo will move in unison as it is attached to the block, I suspect there will be very little movement induced flex on the wires. Well it also depends on how much the engine rocks to the passenger side under WOT or high output scenarios because the hoses will not really want to move and thus flex and will thus be pushed upwards and to the driver side as it bulges, so it might contact the wires. But since it is touching the hose right before it connects to the water pump this means the hose will be as stiff as possible in terms of its connection to the pump and thus flex in the direction of the pump movement as the engine rocks and it will likely not bulge towards the wires. So for the most part I would imagine the only stress it will see is from the hoses itself flexing as water pressure increases as the pump spools up, and from the vibrations of the hose and the wires contact. So overall I don't suspect there to be too much of an issue, but obviously it isn't ideal having the wires touch in this particular area as there isn't much slack in the already bent wire which is pushed up against the metal coupler meaning there is little movement for the wire to bend and flex leaving it more susceptible to damage. But I think you will be ok.
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05-07-2022, 04:07 AM | #3 | ||
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05-07-2022, 04:20 AM | #4 |
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Yeah that might work, but I don't know how much wiggle room there is on the bolt holes.
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05-08-2022, 01:36 AM | #5 |
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TurboSmart DV Install went poorly car runs roughly after it warms up
I noticed that the Fitment was much looser than factory Very sloppy as if it's not completely centered it might not be operational or effective in the way it's intended to be I also have a feeling I have the wrong diverter valve for my car I will be reaching out to X-PH to see what their thoughts are and potentially have the correct unit sent to if I do happen to have the wrong model currently I'm not really sure at this point Any ideas are certainly appreciated This is definitely not what I was expecting
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05-08-2022, 02:14 AM | #6 | |
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But I don't think it's possible to get the wrong valve. The m2 has a much different diverter valve harness than the F series n55, so if you got the wrong one it simply wouldn't connect.
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05-08-2022, 02:17 AM | #7 |
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F series n55 turbo smart valve connector, it's a square pinch style connector similar to the oil temp sensor connector that has to be removed to do the coolant flange.
M2 turbo smart connector, it's a long narrow press tab connector like the mad sensor.
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05-08-2022, 02:56 AM | #8 |
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I got a bunch of codes finally from the ECU
Motor electronics 108001 Intake air temperature sensor, electrical: short circuit to positive 160504 Crankcase ventilation heating, control: line break 118001 Mixture control: Mixture too lean 118401 Mixture control: Mixture too lean, large deviation
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05-08-2022, 02:57 AM | #9 | ||
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Not fun but I am going to figure this all out
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05-08-2022, 04:19 AM | #10 | |
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You should also check your pcv heater connector to ensure its plugged all the way in. Then check all pipe connections to ensure its pushed all the way down and c-clips are in. Make sure the o-rings are installed in the correct orientation. Also check your pcv hose and their connections, make sure its pushed all the way into the inlet and the connector is tight to the valve cover. Also check for cracks on the pcv hose, leaks there can cause issues. After this is done reset all codes and reset adaptations, and restart and see if the issues persist. Other than that I'm not sure what else could be causing it, and it's likely to be your diverter valve.
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05-09-2022, 01:38 AM | #11 |
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Bad hose clamp - Went in the trash
Inlet had literally slipped off the turbo Got a two dollar hose clamp pulled everything off cleaned everything up put it back together Runs like a champ - No engine codes Now to take her for a drive
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05-09-2022, 03:31 PM | #13 | |
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You'll need a 3/8 long 5 mm ball socket That's for the top bolt of the diverter valve The other two I was able to get out with the combination of extensions and a 5 mm hex key
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05-09-2022, 04:35 PM | #15 | |
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05-09-2022, 09:14 PM | #17 | |
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Still need to bolt the belly pan on tonight and hopefully I can drive it tomorrow I am glad I did this in steps to feel the difference now that I have had my inlet on since September of last year this should be interesting to drive with the DV added to the mix
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05-09-2022, 09:26 PM | #18 | |
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I think I quoted another user who found consistent measurable gains with the inlet over the stock one, and the effectiveness of all intakes get better with an inlet. Since I did my both the DV and inlet at the same time. my logs showed a reduction in WGDC and more top end power. There was also a really nice increase in throttle response which was one of my favorite parts (I haven’t real logged since my intake, and I’m waiting for my tuner to send over a tune for my MILVS….) but always excited to hear other people’s impressions on mods |
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05-09-2022, 09:33 PM | #19 | ||
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I run a stock exhaust AFE drop in dry filter MST v2 turbo inlet BMS Intercooler BMS C-Pipe And now the TurboSmart DV
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05-09-2022, 10:25 PM | #21 | |
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Yessir ‼️
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