[aeroglava]

I've read quite a bit about what to do during the break-in period (up to 1200 miles), but wanted to get some more practical advice for those of us with a short commute during this time. Not so much about how to get to the higher mileage faster (that's simply solved through longer drives off commute), but rather the style of driving recommended in a short commute (around 10 miles) that is non-highway miles/side/back roads (albeit major paved roads). Things like, will the car really ever get warmed up fully in that short of a drive? Is it not good for it to barely get warmed up and then shut off? Should it be driven somewhat hard (mine will be MT) during that short drive (if up to temp), but within the limits of the break-in requirements?

Thoughts?

[5.M0NSTER]

Drive it hard, stay is lower gears. My commute is about 5 miles, car gets warmed up but part of my commute is the Autobahn so within these 5 miles I’ll sometimes hit 150mph for a mile or so.

Break it in hard and fast, and it will last.

[aeroglava]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Drive it hard, stay is lower gears. My commute is about 5 miles, car gets warmed up but part of my commute is the Autobahn so within these 5 miles I’ll sometimes hit 150mph for a mile or so.

Break it in hard and fast, and it will last.

Good advice. Although I'm certainly jealous of your commute involving being on the Autobahn!

Most of the roads I'll be on will be 45 mph or less with one small stretch of 60 mph. Seems like my main concern is going to be not getting a speeding ticket.

[Kankles]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Drive it hard, stay is lower gears. My commute is about 5 miles, car gets warmed up but part of my commute is the Autobahn so within these 5 miles I’ll sometimes hit 150mph for a mile or so.

Break it in hard and fast, and it will last.

I also follow this break in methodology

[kpham]

Originally Posted by aeroglava

Not so much about how to get to the higher mileage faster (that's simply solved through longer drives off commute), but rather the style of driving recommended in a short commute (around 10 miles) that is non-highway miles/side/back roads (albeit major paved roads).

Thoughts?

I think a 10 mile commute should bring the engine up to temperature, especially on the side/back roads. I've always heard to vary the load and keep the revs under 5K.

[MMMBRAP]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Drive it hard, stay is lower gears. My commute is about 5 miles, car gets warmed up but part of my commute is the Autobahn so within these 5 miles I’ll sometimes hit 150mph for a mile or so.

Break it in hard and fast, and it will last.

By this do you mean exceeding 5K RPMs which the Owners Manual explicitly tells you NOT to do?

Originally Posted by kpham

I think a 10 mile commute should bring the engine up to temperature, especially on the side/back roads. I've always heard to vary the load and keep the revs under 5K.

That's what you're supposed to do. Who am I to argue with M engineers?

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by aeroglava

I've read quite a bit about what to do during the break-in period (up to 1200 miles), but wanted to get some more practical advice for those of us with a short commute during this time. Not so much about how to get to the higher mileage faster (that's simply solved through longer drives off commute), but rather the style of driving recommended in a short commute (around 10 miles) that is non-highway miles/side/back roads (albeit major paved roads). Things like, will the car really ever get warmed up fully in that short of a drive? Is it not good for it to barely get warmed up and then shut off? Should it be driven somewhat hard (mine will be MT) during that short drive (if up to temp), but within the limits of the break-in requirements?

Thoughts?

If I recall you are getting the car in Spring? Your timing and commute are perfect for break in. The car will warm up quickly and the back roads are where you can vary the speed and rpm and get on the throttle a bit. And you always drive to lunch, take the long way home, and then take wierd drives at night and on the weekend. Trust me, once you have her you will find reasons (or not) to drive her.

I also believe in not babying the car during breakin, and no I dont mean abuse (stay withing guidelines), but certainly push it routinely to the within breakin specs

[Megator]

Lots of ways to break in the car, personally I dont believe in the hard and fast rule. Having said that you should increase the load on the engine as you put on the miles. To the point you do some medium hard accelerations. This helps seat the rings.

Also tons of topics on this already (hint a search function exists!)

You should also know it takes 8-10 miles to get the car and (DCT)trans up to temp.

[AlpsRider]

The hard and fast rule is up to the owner. I wouldn't do the hard and fast rule on a new engine when the oil is not hot though. That can take almost 10 minutes.

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by AlpsRider

The hard and fast rule is up to the owner. I wouldn't do the hard and fast rule on a new engine when the oil is not hot though. That can take almost 10 minutes.

Can we define hard and fast rule? I'm sure it means different things to different people...LOL!

[AlpsRider]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

Can we define hard and fast rule? I'm sure it means different things to different people...LOL!

I'm sure it does! Personally I don't subscribe to the hard and fast rule.

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by AlpsRider

I'm sure it does! Personally I don't subscribe to the hard and fast rule.

I warm up the car (watch the temp guage until 210) in Efficient and T2, then after that switch to Sport, Transmission to 2, and then will do shift at around 4000-4500 and drive upto 85-90 miles an hour. After the car has been driven for a bit, I may switch to S+ T3, if I find a nice road, do a few shifts around 5000 and may hit 100 mph, but not for long.

That is definitely not hard and fast, but its definitely not babying the car either.

[aeroglava]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

I warm up the car (watch the temp guage until 210) in Efficient and T2, then after that switch to Sport, Transmission to 2, and then will do shift at around 4000-4500 and drive upto 85-90 miles an hour. After the car has been driven for a bit, I may switch to S+ T3, if I find a nice road, do a few shifts around 5000 and may hit 100 mph, but not for long.

That is definitely not hard and fast, but its definitely not babying the car either.

I'm jumping to this comment to talk about your previous one. Yes, my car will be coming in early to mid Spring, so that's a great time for sure. I know one of the people above mentioned the search function and I have certainly used that, but haven't seen anyone talk specific data. As you mentioned one man's 'drive it hard' is not the same as another's.

Out of curiosity, how long does it typically take you to get to the oil temp mentioned above in those modes? My concern with the short commute at lower speeds is by the time it gets up to temp, I can't do much at the higher RPM end (below 5500 obviously at first) or drive it in a variable load kind of way; and that I'll just be getting to work as it's time to do that. Good comments/thoughts by all and it's appreciated.

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by aeroglava

I'm jumping to this comment to talk about your previous one. Yes, my car will be coming in early to mid Spring, so that's a great time for sure. I know one of the people above mentioned the search function and I have certainly used that, but haven't seen anyone talk specific data. As you mentioned one man's 'drive it hard' is not the same as another's.

Out of curiosity, how long does it typically take you to get to the oil temp mentioned above in those modes? My concern with the short commute at lower speeds is by the time it gets up to temp, I can't do much at the higher RPM end (below 5500 obviously at first) or drive it in a variable load kind of way; and that I'll just be getting to work as it's time to do that. Good comments/thoughts by all and it's appreciated.

I've been driving in 40 degree weather (when that happens) these days, and usually within 5-6 miles my car is up to temp, where I can switch to Sport mode and start shifting at slightly higher rpm

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by MMMBRAP

By this do you mean exceeding 5K RPMs which the Owners Manual explicitly tells you NOT to do?

Perhaps not the first day you own it, but yes, absolutely. My philosophy which served me well with few different cars now it to let it get to temp easy, and then harp on it. Revving to redline in gear, then lifting off throttle and letting it coast for 10s. Put pressure on the piston rings under load hard and fast, then offload them when off throttle letting the motor come down in RPM slowly in gear. This quick change in pressure combined with heat is what seats the rings.

At least this is my tried and true philosophy based on a sample size of 4, and one car eating oil from the dealer lot, and stopping after this break in. I also track my car, so I think breaking it into conditions it will encounter during it's intended use is best. But this is not to say my is the only way. 90 million cars are broken in world wide each year. I just like my method best.

Besides, BMW tells you many things.

Always obey posted speed limits
Only use BMW oil and fluids
Oil changes every 25000 km or 2 years are ok, but will cost you an arm and a leg
M2CS is worth almost $90k
60 weight oil is ok for winter use on low clearance V8 M3

Some make sense and some don't. Have to make our own choices sometimes.

[Tag]

The break-in period is not primarily for the engine, it's for the entire drivetrain as well. That's why they specifically layout in the owner's manual not to use launch control during break-in. It's a new car and the entire powertrain's moving parts need to "bed in" properly. Use common sense, as the car warms up you can rev it higher, but don't exceed the 5,500 rpm during break-in, etc. If you accidentally go over 5,500 rpm, it's not a big deal. Even after the 1,200 break-in you shouldn't go WOT right away. Slowly ease into it over the next few hundred miles. Once the pain of break-in is over you can beat the snot out of your car with peace of mind it's been broken in properly.

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by Tag

The break-in period is not primarily for the engine, it's for the entire drivetrain as well. That's why they specifically layout in the owner's manual not to use launch control during break-in. It's a new car and the entire powertrain's moving parts need to "bed in" properly. Use common sense, as the car warms up you can rev it higher, but don't exceed the 5,500 rpm during break-in, etc. If you accidentally go over 5,500 rpm, it's not a big deal. Even after the 1,200 break-in you shouldn't go WOT right away. Slowly ease into it over the next few hundred miles. Once the pain of break-in is over you can beat the snot out of your car with peace of mind it's been broken in properly.

I follow this exactly. I have gone close to 5000 a couple of times only while having some fun with the car fully warm. But I also wont drive it in efficient mode for 1200 miles

[Tag]

Originally Posted by BigKutta

I follow this exactly. I have gone close to 5000 a couple of times only while having some fun with the car fully warm. But I also wont drive it in efficient mode for 1200 miles

Yes, no need to drive it like a granny either. Just drive it normally without beating on the car. Varying rpm is great, you don't want to hum along at a set rpm.

Think of your new car as a baby, it's still learning about itself. After break-in the car is now a teen and ready to go. But, being its parent you don't want it to hurt itself. So you gently ease it into learning it's abilities until it's time for it to get out there and be somebody!

[BigKutta]

Originally Posted by Tag

Yes, no need to drive it like a granny either. Just drive it normally without beating on the car. Varying rpm is great, you don't want to hum along at a set rpm.

Think of your new car as a baby, it's still learning about itself. After break-in the car is now a teen and ready to go. But, being its parent you don't want it to hurt itself. So you gently ease it into learning it's abilities until it's time for it to get out there and be somebody!

I cant wait for my baby to grow up

[AlpsRider]

I break my cars in by using my motorcycle engine method. Bring the car up to operating temp, there is a guage on the dash for oil temperature.

If you live near mountains, take it through the hilly twisties, going up through the gears and down through the gears. Then you'll have positive pressure to make heat going up and negative drag on the engine going down. This way the engine, rear end, transmission and brakes all get a fair workout.
This subject has been beaten to death. I can say that neither of my BMWs that I bought new have burned a drop of oil.

[ChrisK]

I have followed the owners manual break-in on 11 BMW's. Never had a problem.

Let it warm up, and drive. Don't beat on it before it warms up or while in break in. it's a complex and expensive piece of engineering.

[Megator]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Perhaps not the first day you own it, but yes, absolutely. My philosophy which served me well with few different cars now it to let it get to temp easy, and then harp on it. Revving to redline in gear, then lifting off throttle and letting it coast for 10s. Put pressure on the piston rings under load hard and fast, then offload them when off throttle letting the motor come down in RPM slowly in gear. This quick change in pressure combined with heat is what seats the rings.

At least this is my tried and true philosophy based on a sample size of 4, and one car eating oil from the dealer lot, and stopping after this break in. I also track my car, so I think breaking it into conditions it will encounter during it's intended use is best. But this is not to say my is the only way. 90 million cars are broken in world wide each year. I just like my method best.

Besides, BMW tells you many things.

Always obey posted speed limits
Only use BMW oil and fluids
Oil changes every 25000 km or 2 years are ok, but will cost you an arm and a leg
M2CS is worth almost $90k
60 weight oil is ok for winter use on low clearance V8 M3

Some make sense and some don't. Have to make our own choices sometimes.

Love it!

Your 1st paragraph is 100% correct and what you should do. Personally I think taking it to 7k+ rpm is too much and I stuck under 5k rpm. I have no oil consumption and power seems to be good (just as fast as my friends S55 cars).

People talk a lot about RPMs but that is only half the story. 7k RPM with no/little load is less harmful than full accel at 1.5k RPM up a hill. The load on the engine is critical.

You can use the sport display gauges to know how much TQ/load you are applying. I would and did not do 100% TQ before the break in service. But I did increase it as the KMs were put on so went from max 20% load to max 80% load.

5.0 Monster if you ever plan to cross the border and try out Assen or Zandvoort let me know as I would love to meet up.