More soundproofing

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 06:28 AM

Following the advice and some excellent threads written by others, I was able to order and install all of the missing factory sound insulation in the rear of the car, and that fiddly piece that goes in front of the door. Still, it could be better. And I had time this weekend and some leftover Dynamat. I've never cared for the "clang" noise that the doors make when you shut them; I prefer a solid thunk. So I thought, let's take the doors apart and see if some Dynamat in there might help.

I'll try to 'splain how it works. It's not difficult, especially if you've taken door panels off before. I'm not even sure if there's a "gotcha" to watch out for, but it always helps to have pictures and guidance. I found a decent video on YouTube that helped, but I personally prefer to read than to watch. Easier to print out too.

First, here's a shot of the completed effort. I didn't go above that intrusion beam, but it does go almost end to end, to the bottom. Did it help? Eh.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 06:31 AM

So, to remove the door panel, it's held in mostly by clips at the top and all along the sides, but also 5 screws. There are two on the very bottom, two behind the carbon fiber door handle trim, and one hiding behind the door latch. All are Torx T-15.

Note some pictures have the screws already removed, but you should be able to see where they were.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 06:35 AM

Removing the carbon fiber trim is a little scary, but there's a recessed bit on the bottom, forward edge, which you can maybe see in the picture below. Start down there, then gently but authoritatively pop the sucker off. There is one "hook" in there, pictured (I hope) but it won't mess you up. It was on pretty stout on both sides, but they come off without breaking.

Fortunately, all of our cars are still relatively young, so we don't have to worry about brittle plastic.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 06:40 AM

Take note of the picture of the door panel (removed) and the door. There are those typical door panel plastic things that everyone uses, which come off with a gentle pry (or less gentle yank if you can get your fingers in there) but these doors also have metal clips all along the top. I used my plastic pry tool to get between the panel and the door to pop them all off. They were pretty firm.

When you pop off the panel, don't let it fall, hold on to it! A lot of the wiring is a lot shorter than you think it should be. There will be a connector for the power window switches (different on the passenger side but still present) the light for the door latch, and if equipped, the puddle light. Also there will be the cable for the door latch.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 06:43 AM

Nice shoes, am I right?

All of the connectors just pull out, except for the window switches on the driver side. That's got a little lever thing that is locked in. Depress the little bump that is holding it closed, and then swing it back to remove plug. It's easier than it sounds.

The door latch is a cable, and it's held in place with a little hook thing which is easily depressed and removed. So easy and obvious that I didn't take a picture of it.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 07:10 AM

After all that, carefully remove the liner, which is glued in with a tar-like adhesive that you want to reuse. It was, for some reason, easier on the passenger side, but you'll get it if you remain patient (not my strong suit).

Oh wait - WAIT! Don't do what I did. You'll want to roll down the window to remove the door panel, but before you unhook the switch, roll the window back up! Doh.

I cut several smaller pieces of Dynamat (which is self-adhesive) and put them in rather than trying to maneuver one large piece. How much you use and where you put it is up to you, just be aware of the window mechanism and don't get anything in the way.

Results? Well, the door does sound a little bit better when closing. There is no appreciable sound difference, but I think I hear a bit more noise coming from the front of the car than before, which means that the other noises are slightly diminished. So yes, it helps, but not much.

The best bang for the buck was restoring the factory insulation in the trunk area, for sure. But this took me only about 90 minutes to do, working slowly and with just a few mistakes, and using leftover materials, so I don't regret it.

Oh, putting the panel back on is easy, carefully restore the liner back to where it was, and remember to feed the door lock back in the hole before you snap it all back on. See how it's kind of leaning over in the picture? Yeah, I forgot it.

nearwater4me · 01-21-2020, 10:21 AM

Nice writeup! This will help me tremendously whenever I decide to pull the door panel to change out the speakers.
Any pics of the trunk liner install?

AlpsRider · 01-21-2020, 11:25 AM

Thanks for the DIY. I need to get one of those flashlights 👍

FaRKle! · 01-21-2020, 11:25 AM

If you want to go further grab some Second Skin Audio Luxury liner and stuff that into the door card (of course you'll need to cut holes for the mounting studs and wires). That will cut down the noise coming through the doors MUCH more than Dynamat. I tried Dynamat alone first, was disappointed with the results, and then added the lux liner, which made a nice improvement.

dtmurf · 01-21-2020, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

....

The best bang for the buck was restoring the factory insulation in the trunk area, for sure. (

Any pics of the trunk area, what exactly did you "restore"?

Also, did you put the hood insulation in? I was wondering about maybe BMW leaving it off for better cooling as I don't know that they saved much by not installing it.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlpsRider

Thanks for the DIY. I need to get one of those flashlights 👍

It rocks! It came as part of a set with my Bosch drill/driver, using the same battery, which seems to last forever. The magnet and adjustable base allow me to put it anywhere.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtmurf

Any pics of the trunk area, what exactly did you "restore"?

I'll dig up the thread, if I can find it (not mine). What we do is order all of the parts that come with the M235i that were left off of the M2 for "weight saving". The annoying thing, for me, is that all of it combined can't weigh more than 3 pounds.

Quote:

Also, did you put the hood insulation in? I was wondering about maybe BMW leaving it off for better cooling as I don't know that they saved much by not installing it.

Again, weight (I'm guessing) and no, I'm not going to do that, as engine sounds are not, to me, "noise". Road/tire noise is what I'm trying to reduce.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 02:09 PM

OK, found the trunk sound insulation thread. Look for the posts from @GregoryK starting here. You may have to click on the link (top right) to show the entire thread, as you'll want to keep on reading past that point. If you start from the beginning of the thread, skip the first 6 pages.

Am I good or what?

Here's the awesome Bosch light. Expensive? Yes. Apparently (I forgot) it was not part of a kit, but I already had the drill/driver, batteries and charger, so I treated myself. I later bought a kit (another drill/driver, reciprocating saw and light) but it had a different, inferior light. This is the real deal.

Worth it? Yes. Especially as we age, good lighting is more and more important.

RocketBoots · 01-21-2020, 02:21 PM

I second the SoundSkins; it's what I used. In addition to putting Soundskin on the outer door panel, I replaced the factory foam vapor shield with SS. I'd say it made a noticeable difference. The factory vapor shield is designed to keep moisture out, not road/tire noise. Soundskin is a great 3-in-1 product that creates a much better barrier to sound than Dynamat IMO. If you decide to go back in, I'd recommend giving that a try. It molds to all the nooks/crannies well, just like the factory one.

Also, did you put in those foam liner things between the door and front fender panel? That made a difference for me at freeway speeds.

I hate wind/tire noise.

LuvMyE92 · 01-21-2020, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketBoots

I second the SoundSkins...

Also, did you put in those foam liner things between the door and front fender panel? That made a difference for me at freeway speeds.

I hate wind/tire noise.

I'll look into that, thanks to both of you.

Yes, I did put in the foam liner things, and it did seem to make a slight difference. The car is still too loud, but hey, it's a sports car (kind of) and anything comparable (Porsche, etc.) will be even louder (BTDT) so I'll just keep adding weight until it's just as quiet as my 540i.

MZWIE · 01-21-2020, 03:49 PM

Why. Get yourself a Lexus.

TemjinX2 · 01-21-2020, 07:28 PM

just becareful...i did a similar project with my integra years ago...problem was when the temps drop at night and in the morning...condensation would form on the aluminum said of the sound proofing and would pool water in those areas as the condensation condensed into water.

nearwater4me · 01-21-2020, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MZWIE

Why. Get yourself a Lexus.

Yeah. Whatever.

LuvMyE92 · 01-22-2020, 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TemjinX2

just becareful...i did a similar project with my integra years ago...problem was when the temps drop at night and in the morning...condensation would form on the aluminum said of the sound proofing and would pool water in those areas as the condensation condensed into water.

Why would it be more (or less) likely to form condensation? It's a function of temperature, isn't it, rather than material? Hmmmm.... I'll have to ponder that.

Thanks for the tip/warning. My car is garaged, so it shouldn't matter (to me) anyway, but others should be aware. And, there should be a drain hole, somewhere, since water getting into a door is a pretty common occurrence, right?

dtmurf · 01-22-2020, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuvMyE92

Am I good or what?

Yes, you are lol, and thanks for the info!

detroitm2 · 01-22-2020, 11:41 AM

In case anyone is looking to do this, Eastwood currently has a deal on their generic Dynamat.

https://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-...4-8-sq-ft.html

M Fifty · 01-22-2020, 01:57 PM

If it's too loud, you're too old.

Discuss...

flybigjet · 01-22-2020, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M Fifty

If it's too loud, you're too old.

Discuss...

No. If it's too loud it means that you're old enough to value your hearing.

So says the guy with irreversible high frequency hearing loss.

Too many rock concerts, motorcycles and jet engines without adequate hearing protection.

Big mistake.

Huge.

R.

01-21-2020, 06:28 AM	#1
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	More soundproofing Following the advice and some excellent threads written by others, I was able to order and install all of the missing factory sound insulation in the rear of the car, and that fiddly piece that goes in front of the door. Still, it could be better. And I had time this weekend and some leftover Dynamat. I've never cared for the "clang" noise that the doors make when you shut them; I prefer a solid thunk. So I thought, let's take the doors apart and see if some Dynamat in there might help. I'll try to 'splain how it works. It's not difficult, especially if you've taken door panels off before. I'm not even sure if there's a "gotcha" to watch out for, but it always helps to have pictures and guidance. I found a decent video on YouTube that helped, but I personally prefer to read than to watch. Easier to print out too. First, here's a shot of the completed effort. I didn't go above that intrusion beam, but it does go almost end to end, to the bottom. Did it help? Eh. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 06:31 AM	#2
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	So, to remove the door panel, it's held in mostly by clips at the top and all along the sides, but also 5 screws. There are two on the very bottom, two behind the carbon fiber door handle trim, and one hiding behind the door latch. All are Torx T-15. Note some pictures have the screws already removed, but you should be able to see where they were. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 06:35 AM	#3
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	Removing the carbon fiber trim is a little scary, but there's a recessed bit on the bottom, forward edge, which you can maybe see in the picture below. Start down there, then gently but authoritatively pop the sucker off. There is one "hook" in there, pictured (I hope) but it won't mess you up. It was on pretty stout on both sides, but they come off without breaking. Fortunately, all of our cars are still relatively young, so we don't have to worry about brittle plastic. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 06:40 AM	#4
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	Take note of the picture of the door panel (removed) and the door. There are those typical door panel plastic things that everyone uses, which come off with a gentle pry (or less gentle yank if you can get your fingers in there) but these doors also have metal clips all along the top. I used my plastic pry tool to get between the panel and the door to pop them all off. They were pretty firm. When you pop off the panel, don't let it fall, hold on to it! A lot of the wiring is a lot shorter than you think it should be. There will be a connector for the power window switches (different on the passenger side but still present) the light for the door latch, and if equipped, the puddle light. Also there will be the cable for the door latch. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 06:43 AM	#5
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	Nice shoes, am I right? All of the connectors just pull out, except for the window switches on the driver side. That's got a little lever thing that is locked in. Depress the little bump that is holding it closed, and then swing it back to remove plug. It's easier than it sounds. The door latch is a cable, and it's held in place with a little hook thing which is easily depressed and removed. So easy and obvious that I didn't take a picture of it. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 07:10 AM	#6
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	After all that, carefully remove the liner, which is glued in with a tar-like adhesive that you want to reuse. It was, for some reason, easier on the passenger side, but you'll get it if you remain patient (not my strong suit). Oh wait - WAIT! Don't do what I did. You'll want to roll down the window to remove the door panel, but before you unhook the switch, roll the window back up! Doh. I cut several smaller pieces of Dynamat (which is self-adhesive) and put them in rather than trying to maneuver one large piece. How much you use and where you put it is up to you, just be aware of the window mechanism and don't get anything in the way. Results? Well, the door does sound a little bit better when closing. There is no appreciable sound difference, but I think I hear a bit more noise coming from the front of the car than before, which means that the other noises are slightly diminished. So yes, it helps, but not much. The best bang for the buck was restoring the factory insulation in the trunk area, for sure. But this took me only about 90 minutes to do, working slowly and with just a few mistakes, and using leftover materials, so I don't regret it. Oh, putting the panel back on is easy, carefully restore the liner back to where it was, and remember to feed the door lock back in the hole before you snap it all back on. See how it's kind of leaning over in the picture? Yeah, I forgot it. Attached Images __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 10:21 AM	#7
nearwater4me Colonel 1916 Rep 2,135 Posts Drives: '22 G82 Base Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: GA iTrader: (1)	Nice writeup! This will help me tremendously whenever I decide to pull the door panel to change out the speakers. Any pics of the trunk liner install?
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01-21-2020, 11:25 AM	#8
AlpsRider Brigadier General 2865 Rep 3,842 Posts Drives: M2 Competition, LBB, 6MT Join Date: May 2015 Location: Earth iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the DIY. I need to get one of those flashlights 👍
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01-21-2020, 11:25 AM	#9
FaRKle! Brigadier General 4016 Rep 3,539 Posts Drives: 328d Wagon, M2 Comp, i4 eD35 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Bay Area, CA iTrader: (4) Garage List 2023 BMW i4 eDrive 35 [0.00] 2017 BMW 328dx Wagon [0.00] 2021 BMW M2 Competi ... [0.00]	If you want to go further grab some Second Skin Audio Luxury liner and stuff that into the door card (of course you'll need to cut holes for the mounting studs and wires). That will cut down the noise coming through the doors MUCH more than Dynamat. I tried Dynamat alone first, was disappointed with the results, and then added the lux liner, which made a nice improvement. __________________ -328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links) -My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
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01-21-2020, 02:09 PM	#12
LuvMyE92 Occasionally frequent poster 3000 Rep 2,744 Posts Drives: CT5V-Blackwing Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: RTP NC, USA iTrader: (0)	OK, found the trunk sound insulation thread. Look for the posts from @GregoryK starting here. You may have to click on the link (top right) to show the entire thread, as you'll want to keep on reading past that point. If you start from the beginning of the thread, skip the first 6 pages. Am I good or what? Here's the awesome Bosch light. Expensive? Yes. Apparently (I forgot) it was not part of a kit, but I already had the drill/driver, batteries and charger, so I treated myself. I later bought a kit (another drill/driver, reciprocating saw and light) but it had a different, inferior light. This is the real deal. Worth it? Yes. Especially as we age, good lighting is more and more important. __________________ Current inventory: F22 & G05 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing w/3 pedals Past: E24,E28(3),E34,E36,E37,E38(2),E39(4),E46,E89,E92 (obviously),F01,F06,F10,F30,F87,G12,G30(2),G82(2)
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01-21-2020, 02:21 PM	#13
RocketBoots Colonel 1860 Rep 2,104 Posts Drives: Horse Drawn Carriage Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Bay Area iTrader: (3)	I second the SoundSkins; it's what I used. In addition to putting Soundskin on the outer door panel, I replaced the factory foam vapor shield with SS. I'd say it made a noticeable difference. The factory vapor shield is designed to keep moisture out, not road/tire noise. Soundskin is a great 3-in-1 product that creates a much better barrier to sound than Dynamat IMO. If you decide to go back in, I'd recommend giving that a try. It molds to all the nooks/crannies well, just like the factory one. Also, did you put in those foam liner things between the door and front fender panel? That made a difference for me at freeway speeds. I hate wind/tire noise.
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01-21-2020, 03:49 PM	#15
MZWIE Lieutenant Colonel 388 Rep 1,660 Posts Drives: M2 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: GEORGIA iTrader: (0)	Why. Get yourself a Lexus.
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01-21-2020, 07:28 PM	#16
TemjinX2 Major 521 Rep 1,485 Posts Drives: 2008 335xi e92 Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Socal OC iTrader: (0)	just becareful...i did a similar project with my integra years ago...problem was when the temps drop at night and in the morning...condensation would form on the aluminum said of the sound proofing and would pool water in those areas as the condensation condensed into water.
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01-22-2020, 11:41 AM	#20
detroitm2 Colonel 2428 Rep 2,526 Posts Drives: 2018 M2 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Michigan iTrader: (2) Garage List 2018 BMW M2 [0.00]	In case anyone is looking to do this, Eastwood currently has a deal on their generic Dynamat. https://www.eastwood.com/xmat-sound-...4-8-sq-ft.html
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01-22-2020, 01:57 PM	#21
M Fifty Banned 844 Rep 1,962 Posts Drives: M2 & 330CI Join Date: May 2018 Location: The Interweb iTrader: (0)	If it's too loud, you're too old. Discuss...
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