[Joakim_79]

Originally Posted by nothingman

Can you clarify what you mean the non-MPE actuator isn’t compatible with the MPE electronics? Did you put the non-MPE/stock actuator onto an MPE exhaust and see if it opens the valve? We all know the stock actuator originally opened the stock exhaust valve, so the question is whether it would open the MPE exhaust valve(s) if moved over. I can’t tell from your post whether that’s what you attempted.

I had the non MPE actuator mounted on the M235 exhaust valve, I connected the MPE electronics and turned on the power on my powersupply, it tried to close the valve for around 2-3 seconds then it went silent. after that I tried control it with the Bluetooth button but the actuator does not move at all. if I toggle the power off and on again same thing happens.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Joakim_79

I had the non MPE actuator mounted on the M235 exhaust valve, I connected the MPE electronics and turned on the power on my powersupply, it tried to close the valve for around 2-3 seconds then it went silent. after that I tried control it with the Bluetooth button but the actuator does not move at all. if I toggle the power off and on again same thing happens.

Hmm weird. But have you tried to use the factory electronics?

[Joakim_79]

Originally Posted by F87source

Hmm weird. But have you tried to use the factory electronics?

Yes, the non MPE actuator works just fine on the car harness. But it is not working with the MPE electronics.

I have not installed the electronics in the car yet, I just have it setup on my testbench with a 12V power supply. That is why I performed this test. I also have an old M235i exhaust with an actuator on it. I will build my own system so I have only sourced the electronics, not the actual M2 exhaust. I do not have the MPE actuators yet but I have a Y-harness from the M4/M3 MPE also just in case I decide not to use the M2 MPE electronics.

[beppeM3+123d]

I am not sure if is clear so i try to summarize:

- Mpe valve work with mpe ecu and wiring BUT in this case the oem wiring is disused.

what is necessary to check is :
- install m2 oem stock control valve ( not mpe ) in the mpe exhaust,

- Check if oem wiring plugged with stock m2 valve, installed in the mpe exhaust, open the valve ( generally work ) without problem while using driving mode selector.

- If this test is positive the final definitive job is buy another stock valve, buy y oem cable and just plug!


All this purpose is in order to remove the bluetooth ecu and control of the valve in the mpe exhaust!!

Hope my post help anyone is installing or have installed mpe exhaust!!

[PAC]

Hi, to explain how Remus does it, they provide a duplicate valve controller, you remove the one from your stock exhaust and use their provided Y cable to control both actuators via the stock software/drive modes.

I dont know if it's their own Y cable or a BMW item. I can open the box before I go to get the install done and see if I can get info on the cable. TBH someone who has the know how could whip one up and sell to MPE owners. I cannot see this not working if the fix is simply splitting the signal to both actuators (stock, replacing the MPE ones)

[f50nut]

In for updates!

[PAC]

So what I could tell from when I took a peak was that it's literally a duplicate of the stock actuator and the Y cable as theorized. I can't confirm 100% working but maybe the dude earlier in the thread with a work bench can confirm this. If you can install the stock actuators into the place where the MPE actuators are seamlessly then that's the solution.

From what I saw and from what Remus's website says it's a second actuator provided and one has to be removed from the original exhaust. Using logic, it has to be a duplicate OEM actuator.

[KcLzMs]

Hi all,

I am new to the forum, but I did try the technique of installing the OEM actuators onto the MPE today, the actuator placement of the Stock Exhaust and MPE is totally opposite. (Seems like the stock actuator and MPE actuator works the same on the iDrive plug. Stock actuator just doesn't have the Bluetooth feature I am assuming.)

When the actuators (stock or MPE - I tried both) are installed and plugged in to the iDrive plug, the actuators actually opens the flap on the MPE once the car starts. (I believe it opens it as Sport Mode as opposed to Comfort from the Stock Exhaust).

Question is: does that mean the Sport Mode on the iDrive will become Comfort Mode (closing the flaps on the MPE)?... I haven't tried that yet, since I have the actuators disconnected for now, since I actually don't want the flaps to stay open. (My mistake for not testing Sport Mode to see if that closes the flaps.)

(Y-Harness is not necessary if you're willing to cut the original stock exhaust plug and split it two way with the MPE wire harness.)

[Joakim_79]

I have done more tests now.

Original connector in the car, Y cable, original actuators 18308632154. //Works
Original connector in the car, Y cable, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Does not work.

MPE electronics, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Works
MPE electronics, original actuators 18308632154. //Does not work.

[beppeM3+123d]

Originally Posted by Joakim_79

I have done more tests now.

Original connector in the car, Y cable, original actuators 18308632154. //Works
Original connector in the car, Y cable, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Does not work.

MPE electronics, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Works
MPE electronics, original actuators 18308632154. //Does not work.

Are you able to fit oem actuator on mpe exhaust??

[Joakim_79]

Originally Posted by beppeM3+123d

Are you able to fit oem actuator on mpe exhaust??

Yes, the MPE actuator and the Standard actuator looks exactly the same, just different partnumbers written on them.

[f50nut]

Originally Posted by Joakim_79

Yes, the MPE actuator and the Standard actuator looks exactly the same, just different partnumbers written on them.

So just to confirm, you've got the MPE running with stock valve behavior (opening and closing via driving modes)?

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by f50nut

So just to confirm, you've got the MPE running with stock valve behavior (opening and closing via driving modes)?

No, look two posts up...

Originally Posted by Joakim_79

I have done more tests now.

Original connector in the car, Y cable, original actuators 18308632154. //Works
Original connector in the car, Y cable, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Does not work.

MPE electronics, MPE actuators 18302409515. //Works
MPE electronics, original actuators 18308632154. //Does not work.

[f50nut]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

No, look two posts up...

Originally Posted by Joakim_79
I have done more tests now.

Original connector in the car, Y cable, original actuators 18308632154. //Works

I read this as a yes^

[mr_lab_rat]

Just to add to confusion there was an owner who said he used the CG Precision controller for the M3 to control the valves. It makes sense that it would work since the actuators are the same as stock M3/M4. What I don't know is whether this setup supported the DME control.

For now I decided to live with the flimsy BT remote. When I'm really bored I will reverse engineer the valve control box and come up with a reliable wired solution.

[Anthony1s]

Originally Posted by f50nut

Originally Posted by Joakim_79
I have done more tests now.

Original connector in the car, Y cable, original actuators 18308632154. //Works

I read this as a yes^

Ah, you're saying if you weld in the original valves and use the original electronics on the MPE.

[f50nut]

Originally Posted by Anthony1s

Ah, you're saying if you weld in the original valves and use the original electronics on the MPE.

Essentially yes. Plus the BMW Y cable. That’s how I read it.

[taingy_sauce]

I started a thread here not knowing about this one. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1685665

Here is what I just tested:
I disconnected the OEM wire and plugged it into one the MPE actuators. Once i turned on the car, the actuator turned itself but that was the only time it turned. I tried changing driving modes, let the car get warm, turning car on/off, but the actuator wouldn't ever move again.

Also, I am unable to fit the MPE actuator back on the MPE - the actuator turned itself in such a way that it won't connect back onto the MPE

[ming_lau]

I started with really wanting to control my MPE valves with the drive mode. However, it hits me after carful consideration that this may not be the best idea regardless if using the OEM valve actuator on the MPE muffler is possible.

I believe the starting sequence for the M2 involves opening the valve for a shot period of time. This is fine with the stock muffler as, even with valve open, it is still considerably less loud than the MPE. However, if this is to be with a MPE setup, every cold start would be a straight pipe start. Your ears and neighbor would not be happy. In a parking lot, you will trigger the alarm of the car parked behind you. Don't ask me how I know it. I also think this might be the reason why the MPE comes with a completely separate control modal and didn't take advantage of the stock valve plug.

I will be placing an order with CG Precision for their plug and play VSC-2 (Smashing the garage Bluetooth controller after install). By going with the VSC-2, I can still have the per BMW designed valve-closed cold start in the morning, and also a much more reliable control system that just get integrated into a HomeLink bottom.

For those who wish to have your cold start loud AF, you can order the controller with default open so your valves can always be open until you spot a cop and turn them off.

[Mped]

Hello everyone, this is my first post here. I'll have to introduce myself properly some other time but real quickly in October I bought a '17 Mineral Gray 6MT with some M performance bits (including the exhaust) already installed. This car is awesome!

I have found an easy solution to the Bluetooth controller that has annoyed me from the beginning and now that it is colder is causing me more problems.



Some backstory to clear this up. In 2004 I had a VW R32 that had a computer controlled exhaust valve and someone on the forums found the wire that just needed to be grounded to open the valve. Just install a simple toggle switch to ground and so I figured I might find the same solution for the mpe.

I started testing the wires at the control box to see what I could find and found that grounding that wire would open the valves. So you can either run a wire up into the cabin and get a toggle switch or one of the fancy billet buttons or you can follow CG Precision's lead like I did and control it with your homelink.

I bought an RF remote relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6VOI6Y...roduct_details and a pack of Posi-Tap inline wire taps. The relay can be programmed to operate a few different ways. I run my set up in toggle mode, one homelink button opens and a different button closes the valves. You can also run in latched mode where one button does both. Here's how I wired it. Green to green (a little hard to see but it's in the 4th connection), black wire(s) to ground and red to power.

I picked a fuse in the fusebox that is always powered and installed a Bussmann BP/HHH-RP ATM Mini Add-A-Circuit so that the RF switch will stay closed (if the relay loses power the switch opens) and therefore the valves stay open when I start the car if I want.

Of course I am not responsible if you fry your electrical system. I'll be happy to answer any questions if I can.

This is what the finished install looks like.
Mark

[BMWF87Melb]

Originally Posted by Mped

Hello everyone, this is my first post here. I'll have to introduce myself properly some other time but real quickly in October I bought a '17 Mineral Gray 6MT with some M performance bits (including the exhaust) already installed. This car is awesome!

I have found an easy solution to the Bluetooth controller that has annoyed me from the beginning and now that it is colder is causing me more problems.

Attachment 2813227

Some backstory to clear this up. In 2004 I had a VW R32 that had a computer controlled exhaust valve and someone on the forums found the wire that just needed to be grounded to open the valve. Just install a simple toggle switch to ground and so I figured I might find the same solution for the mpe.

I started testing the wires at the control box to see what I could find and found that grounding that wire would open the valves. So you can either run a wire up into the cabin and get a toggle switch or one of the fancy billet buttons or you can follow CG Precision's lead like I did and control it with your homelink.

I bought an RF remote relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6VOI6Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details and a pack of Posi-Tap inline wire taps. The relay can be programmed to operate a few different ways. I run my set up in toggle mode, one homelink button opens and a different button closes the valves. You can also run in latched mode where one button does both. Here's how I wired it. Green to green (a little hard to see but it's in the 4th connection), black wire(s) to ground and red to power.
Attachment 2813255
I picked a fuse in the fusebox that is always powered and installed a Bussmann BP/HHH-RP ATM Mini Add-A-Circuit so that the RF switch will stay closed (if the relay loses power the switch opens) and therefore the valves stay open when I start the car if I want.

Of course I am not responsible if you fry your electrical system. I'll be happy to answer any questions if I can.

This is what the finished install looks like.
Mark

Wow. Well done. There's been years of talk here on the forum about a non-Bluetooth switch for the MPE valve!!

[Mped]

Originally Posted by BMWF87Melb

Wow. Well done. There's been years of talk here on the forum about a non-Bluetooth switch for the MPE valve!!

Thank you, I've tried to figure out the signals coming from the factory plug for the people that want to have the sport buttons control the exhaust but haven't been able to. I haven't given up yet.