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      01-08-2020, 08:21 PM   #1
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Manual Transmission Rebuild?

Hi everyone,
I have been experiencing an intermittent issue with my 6sp ever since new. 1st to 2nd gear grinds when shifting over 6500rpm. On a related note, this same phenomenon is only exacerbated by installing a clutch stop. I've posted about this before but basically if I run any level of clutch stop the grinding happens without fail. Naturally I removed it and for a while thought the issue was solved but I still occasionally get the grinding. Why this happens is beyond me and why others can run clutch stops without issue is also frustrating.

Fast forward to a dealer visit about it. Unfortunately because it's not 100% repeatable they will not warrantee it. So it is what it is, I'm not terribly upset about it as it happens infrequently but do want to plan accordingly in the event I completely/eventually nuke 2nd gear.

I know used transmissions are available for 15-2500 but would rather find someone to rebuild the trans I already have vs swapping in a used transmission with unknown history. That said, are these transmissions rebuildable? And can anyone recommend a shop that could handle it? I'm in SoCal but would ship the transmission to a specialist if need be. I would also love to chat with someone who has intimate expertise with these transmissions(if that exists) to see if they can make any recommendations about why my vehicle behaves like this.

Thanks in advance
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      01-08-2020, 09:39 PM   #2
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Go to a different dealer, they should be fixing it for free. When I had an issue with my eccentric shaft actuator that was not repeatable I was concerned that I wouldn't be taken seriously so I ended up taking a video of the issue. Once I showed them that I was taken care of. They opened a TSARA case and asked to keep the car for a few days and gave me a loaner. Had the car back fixed under warranty within a week.
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      01-08-2020, 09:50 PM   #3
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I don't think another dealer would yield a different result. I am personal friends with my tech and very cool with the service writer. As of late BMW has been very aggressive about denying claims. Currently the car has a few aftermarket modifications and while everyone is in agreement they have no bearing on the issue in question they(the dealer) have been through the ringer trying to get BMW to pay out on other customer repairs involving far less with cars that had just intakes and exhausts. I'm not going to escalate this fight as the odds are currently against me and I don't want to risk getting the VIN flagged.

I do plan on returning everything to stock sometime within the next year before the warranty is up in the event this problem worsens. The purpose of this post is get any info about what my possible course of action could be outside of the sphere of warranty work.
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      01-08-2020, 10:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natek View Post
I don't think another dealer would yield a different result. I am personal friends with my tech and very cool with the service writer. As of late BMW has been very aggressive about denying claims. Currently the car has a few aftermarket modifications and while everyone is in agreement they have no bearing on the issue in question they(the dealer) have been through the ringer trying to get BMW to pay out on other customer repairs involving far less with cars that had just intakes and exhausts. I'm not going to escalate this fight as the odds are currently against me and I don't want to risk getting the VIN flagged.

I do plan on returning everything to stock sometime within the next year before the warranty is up in the event this problem worsens. The purpose of this post is get any info about what my possible course of action could be outside of the sphere of warranty work.
This will probably void all warranty on your transmission (but you likely can revert it back) but I would give it a shot. You should try deleting your CDV and bleeding the clutch to see if that alleviates the issue.
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      01-09-2020, 08:58 AM   #5
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Read the big thread on the clutch stop and you'll see why many people opt out of using it. I would bet that the clutch stop caused your issues over time
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      01-09-2020, 10:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nioh_lbbm2 View Post
Read the big thread on the clutch stop and you'll see why many people opt out of using it. I would bet that the clutch stop caused your issues over time
I ran the clutch stop for a week took it out after the 4th or 5th incident. I can't imagine that caused long term damage. More importantly, I'm trying to find a solution...
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      01-30-2020, 08:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M2OG View Post
I ran the clutch stop for a week took it out after the 4th or 5th incident. I can't imagine that caused long term damage. More importantly, I'm trying to find a solution...
I've done a lot of reading on the forums about these clutch stops. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence that they may cause an issue. Can someone who has used one for many miles weigh in on if they actually are damaging?
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      01-30-2020, 09:33 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeroglava View Post
I've done a lot of reading on the forums about these clutch stops. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence that they may cause an issue. Can someone who has used one for many miles weigh in on if they actually are damaging?
I've used one for 7,000 km and no issues regardless of the number of shims. The transmission has a knotchiness or hesitation from 1st to 2nd, but that occurred stock too.

There are alot of people who say the clutch stop caused them issues and alot of people who say there are no issues. Until someone actually pulls the transmission open to check there are no guarantees.
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      01-31-2020, 10:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeroglava View Post
I've done a lot of reading on the forums about these clutch stops. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence that they may cause an issue. Can someone who has used one for many miles weigh in on if they actually are damaging?
I actually had a problem on my old E36M3/4. I had a Clutch stop installed and over 50K miles I developed a syncro cone problem trying to shift from 1st to 2nd gear. The car was autocrossed and tracked heavily during that time. IMHO what caused this WAS the Clutch Stop. But I also blame myself for setting it up to far off the floor.

I had to eventually swap out to another used tranny.

If your using a clutch stop make sure their is some room between where the clutch begins to engage and where the stop is set. I would err on the side of caution when you set it.

I'm currently running a UCP which uses a stop. I've made sure its not set to close to initial pickup.
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      01-31-2020, 11:54 AM   #10
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Can I just check that you're starting to shift up at 6,500rpm, rather than this being the rpm at which you engage the next gear?

Separately, what happens if you double de-clutch the upshifts (think Steve McQueen in Bulllit)? It sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
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      01-31-2020, 08:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SEAT TIME RULES View Post
I actually had a problem on my old E36M3/4. I had a Clutch stop installed and over 50K miles I developed a syncro cone problem trying to shift from 1st to 2nd gear. The car was autocrossed and tracked heavily during that time. IMHO what caused this WAS the Clutch Stop. But I also blame myself for setting it up to far off the floor.

I had to eventually swap out to another used tranny.

If your using a clutch stop make sure their is some room between where the clutch begins to engage and where the stop is set. I would err on the side of caution when you set it.

I'm currently running a UCP which uses a stop. I've made sure its not set to close to initial pickup.
What makes you lean towards this being the clutch stop vs hard driving/shifting in autocross and track time (you mentioned 'tracked heavily'). Seems almost anecdotal again to me. Not trying to be pedantic, I'm just trying to find real evidence that this is the cause.
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      01-31-2020, 09:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeroglava View Post
What makes you lean towards this being the clutch stop vs hard driving/shifting in autocross and track time (you mentioned 'tracked heavily'). Seems almost anecdotal again to me. Not trying to be pedantic, I'm just trying to find real evidence that this is the cause.
Because my clutch stop wasn't 100% disengaging the flywheel. By the time I noticed this I was already experiencing syncro cone damage.

I had adjusted it too close to the initial contact with the flywheel.

As long as your setting it up with a decent amount of room then there shouldn't be an issue.
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      02-01-2020, 01:09 AM   #13
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To be clear. I don't think the clutch stop caused my issue. I think the issue was always there and the clutch stop made it more apparent
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