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      06-15-2021, 01:00 PM   #1
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Least expensive way to make the M Performance suspension lower.

OK, so I thought the MPS would go low enough for me, but it turns out I want something just a bit lower. I'm very happy with the MPS otherwise, and since KW makes it for M, I'm wondering if I can just get the KW HAS kit from IND for $859 and swap some parts to make it lower.

Your thoughts?

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      06-15-2021, 01:26 PM   #2
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      06-15-2021, 03:22 PM   #3
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Which parts are you thinking of swapping? You might not even have to buy the whole HAS kit and can just buy what you need.
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      06-15-2021, 03:26 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Which parts are you thinking of swapping? You might not even have to buy the whole HAS kit and can just buy what you need.
Yeah, that's what M Fifty said. It's the rears that are the problem, the front will go down more. So just the top pieces where the spring fits in, maybe they're shorter on the KW HAS? But what if the front spring rate is quite different from the front MPS spring rate? I might need those then. And the helper springs would be nice to have as well.

I don't know, I'm shooting in the dark looking for guys that know what they're talking about (not me) lol.
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      06-15-2021, 04:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
Yeah, that's what M Fifty said. It's the rears that are the problem, the front will go down more. So just the top pieces where the spring fits in, maybe they're shorter on the KW HAS? But what if the front spring rate is quite different from the front MPS spring rate? I might need those then. And the helper springs would be nice to have as well.

I don't know, I'm shooting in the dark looking for guys that know what they're talking about (not me) lol.
Apparently on the rear of the M-Perf adjusters there's a spacer that limits how high you can set the spring perch to lower the car. There's a set screw on there that you have to remove/drill out and then you can take the spacer off giving you more threads to lower further.

If that's too intimidating for you, then I'd just go buy a new set of rear adjusters from BC Racing for $100/pair.

Lastly, you can move to a shorter length, standard coilover spring with the same spring rate as the M-Perf one.
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      06-15-2021, 05:07 PM   #6
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In NA, there appears to be a spacer in the adjuster of the rear spring of the MPS that limits how low it can be adjusted - but it's not that big based on pictures I've seen. And it can be removed. There's something similar on the front too it seems.

So on the rear, the KW HA kit should just be offering a shorter main spring, plus an intermediate platform and helper spring. These might be available as spare parts from KW (on the basis that they sell lower bushes for the rear dampers, and the compression adjusters for the front dampers separately).
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      06-15-2021, 05:10 PM   #7
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Obvs, if you want to go a lot lower with the MPS on the back, you could think about just deleting the adjuster and refit the standard upper spring seat.
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      06-15-2021, 07:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Apparently on the rear of the M-Perf adjusters there's a spacer that limits how high you can set the spring perch to lower the car. There's a set screw on there that you have to remove/drill out and then you can take the spacer off giving you more threads to lower further.
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Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
In NA, there appears to be a spacer in the adjuster of the rear spring of the MPS that limits how low it can be adjusted - but it's not that big based on pictures I've seen. And it can be removed.
This is the part you guys are talking about, right? Did you find threads on it? I can't seem to find them.
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      06-15-2021, 10:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
This is the part you guys are talking about, right? Did you find threads on it? I can't seem to find them.
Your pic doesn't show the spacer/stop on the rear adjuster. Here's a pic of the rear adjuster with the spacer/stop. You can see the brass colored set screw that has to be drilled out to remove the spacer.
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      06-16-2021, 01:54 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Your pic doesn't show the spacer/stop on the rear adjuster. Here's a pic of the rear adjuster with the spacer/stop. You can see the brass colored set screw that has to be drilled out to remove the spacer.
Might be worth asking KW if they sell the rear adjuster separately - as that won't have the additional ring in this picture.
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      06-16-2021, 05:55 AM   #11
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Seeing the MPS uses a single spring in the rear without a helper, does it remain fully captive when the spacer is removed and the suspension is at full droop?

I suspect it probably does but if it is very close to full spring extension when the adjuster is hard up against the spacer, removal of the spacer may allow it to rattle around.

It is unlikely to be enough to let it fall out but it will earn you a defect notice if inspected. You're in the USA so this may or may not be a concern.
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      06-16-2021, 06:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caduceus View Post
Seeing the MPS uses a single spring in the rear without a helper, does it remain fully captive when the spacer is removed and the suspension is at full droop?

I suspect it probably does but if it is very close to full spring extension when the adjuster is hard up against the spacer, removal of the spacer may allow it to rattle around.

It is unlikely to be enough to let it fall out but it will earn you a defect notice if inspected. You're in the USA so this may or may not be a concern.
The spacers on the MPS appear to be a US phenomenon based on available pictures.

But in answer to your question - yes the spring is fully captive with the suspension at full droop.
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      06-16-2021, 06:46 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
This is the part you guys are talking about, right? Did you find threads on it? I can't seem to find them.
The picture shows an MPS rear adjuster without the spacer.
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      06-16-2021, 07:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
Your pic doesn't show the spacer/stop on the rear adjuster. Here's a pic of the rear adjuster with the spacer/stop. You can see the brass colored set screw that has to be drilled out to remove the spacer.
That's the thing, I don't remember seeing such a spacer on mine, but I know they are all the way down, and definitely not lower than 600, so it has to be there.

I'm hoping I can jack the car up and use motorcycle spring compressors to slack the spring and take the adjuster out to modify it, I'd had to take everything apart in the rear just for that one piece.
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      06-17-2021, 02:38 PM   #15
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The way that kit was designed, there is a reason why you can't go lower than 600 mm in the rear: because you should not.

At 600 mm you already have very little bump travel of the shock. If you make it lower you will have none. Cutting the bump stop can give you some more room but not the optimal dampening.

The other issue is if you go any lower and push car hard (track or aggressive driving on twisties, load the rear, etc) you will hit the wheel will against the inside of the wheel well effectively jamming the suspension and preventing it from working like it should. (stock size of the rear tire).

Last edited by x233; 06-17-2021 at 02:44 PM..
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      06-17-2021, 02:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x233 View Post
The way that kit was designed, there is a reason why you can't go lower than 600 mm in the rear: because you should not.

At 600 mm you already have very little bump travel of the shock. If you make it lower you will have none. Cutting the bump stop can give you some more room but not the optimal dampening.

The other issue is if you go any lower and push car hard (track or aggressive driving on twisties, load the rear, etc) you will hit the wheel will against the inside of the wheel well effectively jamming the suspension and preventing it from working like it should. (stock size of the rear tire).
Thanks for your thoughts dad, but I don't track my car, and I can't imagine 5mm will hurt anything.
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      06-17-2021, 02:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
Thanks for your thoughts dad, but I don't track my car, and I can't imagine 5mm will hurt anything.
I am saying it because I did that. And I don't track the car, either. But you certainly can do whatever you want, and repeat other people's mistakes
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      06-17-2021, 04:08 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by x233 View Post
I am saying it because I did that. And I don't track the car, either. But you certainly can do whatever you want, and repeat other people's mistakes
The MPS, if I understand it correctly, is essentially the same as the KWV3, which has just a few tweaks, one of them being the ability to go lower in the rear (the MPS will lower more in the front as-is). So worst case scenario there are a few bits that will need to be changed over to the KW bits to lower the rear properly, but I'm betting that 5mm will not cause any issue at all with the way I drive the car. She's my daily, on good roads, and my photography muse. I'm not even 100% sure I want to lower it further, in certain light it looks perfect.
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      06-21-2021, 04:06 PM   #19
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>> KWV3, which has just a few tweaks, one of them being the ability to go lower in the rear

Having more thread does not mean you should use all of it. The manual that comes with the kit specifies the effective range on that thread which you should not exceed, either lower or higher.

>> I'm betting that 5mm will not cause any issue at all with the way I drive the car

Your betting is wrong. Your muse will rub / jam the suspension just as soon as you go over that hill in the distance in your beautiful picture at any decent speed, let alone loaded.
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      06-21-2021, 07:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x233 View Post
Having more thread does not mean you should use all of it. The manual that comes with the kit specifies the effective range on that thread which you should not exceed, either lower or higher.
You're forgetting the fact that a.) the MPS is literally made by KW with only minor changes to their own kit, and b.) a big reason why people buy the KW kit over the MPS is the fact that it'll go lower. A maximum I could get their rear springs and be 100% fine with the modification.


Quote:
Originally Posted by x233 View Post
Your betting is wrong. Your muse will rub / jam the suspension just as soon as you go over that hill in the distance in your beautiful picture at any decent speed, let alone loaded.
If you want to voice your opinion, do so, but don't talk like you're an expert on what 5mm will do to my car because you're not. It all comes down to how the car is driven.
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      06-22-2021, 01:40 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VisualEcho View Post
You're forgetting the fact that a.) the MPS is literally made by KW with only minor changes to their own kit, and b.) a big reason why people buy the KW kit over the MPS is the fact that it'll go lower. A maximum I could get their rear springs and be 100% fine with the modification.

If you want to voice your opinion, do so, but don't talk like you're an expert on what 5mm will do to my car because you're not. It all comes down to how the car is driven.
Dear VisualEcho, didn't mean it to come across as rude or anything. I get it that maybe you don't like to hear what goes against your expectations and maybe a bit irritated but I'm just stating that your calculations/expectations are not correct. Saying it not because I think so but because I know so. Saying it so you don't make a mistake. But if you are so bent on making one...
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      06-22-2021, 01:55 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x233 View Post
I'm just stating that your calculations/expectations are not correct.
And I'm stating that you don't know that, you just believe it. I've already spoken with several people who have done this modification and they have suffered no ill effects.

It's ok to voice an opinion, even better if it's educated, but it's not ok to present it as fact without it being so.

Cheers!
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