[PackPride85]

Going to be picking up a set of 18x9.5 +35 square wheels as for track days next year. Running stock suspension so i'll be starting out with 5mm spacers in the front. Debating on whether to do a stud conversion or just get longer bolts for the front. Studs sound like they'd be much easier to deal with the wheel swap at the track, but also could just use an alignment tool with bolts.

Is stud conversion worth it? I live in NC so don't really have to worry too much about winter corrosion.

[chris719]

I’d try it a few times with the locating tool if needed and see if you feel it’s a pain in the ass. I never felt studs were much easier personally but most people disagree with me. I only swap for winters though.

[Track/S]

I went from bolts to studs without looking back and I don't regret it in the least

[CLH]

I personally prefers studs to bolts. Bolts are a PITA, even with a locating pin. If you go to studs, be meticulous about chasing and cleaning the threads in the hubs or you’ll have issues with the thread-lock. GL!

[riko///m2]

My blue calipers have many paint chips because of the constant removal of my wheels. I switched to studs to prevent further damage.

Motorsport Hardware has a clearance sale right now. I copped a set of 65mm studs and gunmetal Titan nuts for $103. Awesome deal I think

[bentom2]

For ease of service track side when a stud/bolt fails, I went back to bolts from studs. I’ve had both fail trackside. Fortunately, I discovered them when checking torque rather than having them fail on track.

Stud breaks-you’re probably drilling and extracting due to the stud being locked in with thread locker. Then you’re chasing/cleaning threads and lock tite-ing a new stud in. Not a huge deal but you’ll probably lose a session, assuming you have everything with you.

Bolt breaks- I’ve been able to back the broken piece out more than once with what’s left of the broken bolt. But even if that doesn’t work, odds are decent the broken piece will come out a left hand drill bit before you even get the hole fully drilled for the extractor. Very easy to replace. Less time lost and maybe you save the session after you discover the broken bolt.

If you’re extra cautious, you’re replacing all 5 on that wheel, or all 10 on the axle, which is far quicker with bolts than studs.

I’ve started carrying spare bolts and have made them an annual maintenance item. I do 15-20 days per year, check torque when cold a couple times per day, and probably have wheels off one or both axles 1-2 times per day of track use for brake maintenance, tire rotations, wheel swaps, etc. They take a lot of abuse over the course of a season vs street use.

[David.m]

I use 5mm spacers on front for track and still use bolts (5mm longer), getting wheel on/off is a read pia so ended up getting 3 guide pins, takes a few seconds to screw them in but wheel change much easier.

[MooMooM2]

I almost went studs, bought them and was ready to install. 1 track day max per month so I do a wheel change 2 times/month + change to winter tires when season is over.

Decided to stick with bolts because although studs will be easier to do wheel changes, at a couple wheel changes per month its not worth it to me (if I was doing more than that than absolutely). Also removing the studs can be a huge pain and you should really be replacing studs annually or every couple of years with a ton of wheel changes. Same with bolts but with bolts just buy new bolts and you are done.

So imo really depends on how many wheel changes you are doing. With the pins its fine, wheel slides in without any problem, I just use 2 pins, be careful and you won't ding your caliper... doing it a couple times a month I got good at it.

[PackPride85]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

I almost went studs, bought them and was ready to install. 1 track day max per month so I do a wheel change 2 times/month + change to winter tires when season is over.

Decided to stick with bolts because although studs will be easier to do wheel changes, at a couple wheel changes per month its not worth it to me (if I was doing more than that than absolutely). Also removing the studs can be a huge pain and you should really be replacing studs annually or every couple of years with a ton of wheel changes. Same with bolts but with bolts just buy new bolts and you are done.

So imo really depends on how many wheel changes you are doing. With the pins its fine, wheel slides in without any problem, I just use 2 pins, be careful and you won't ding your caliper... doing it a couple times a month I got good at it.

Thanks. I'm starting to lean towards bolts and guide pin now. I'm probably going to be at a similar rate of wheel swaps but don't really want to deal with stud replacements every year.

[ZM2]

I’ve stuck to bolts bc I don’t like the look of studs on the street for a dual duty DD/track car. Have seen many guys lose half a day at the track from broken studs. I just get a new “free” set of bolts every year from FCP.

I used to use guide pins, but I’ve switched wheels/tires so much that I can pop the wheel up on the hub lip, rotate slightly to line up the holes, and hand start the bolts without any issues.

[Suds]

One advantage of studs is they kind act as anti theft as long as the wheel thief doesn’t have a deep 18mm socket.