[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Nezil

Did the aluminium / strut top hats / reinforcement rings last night. Was a really quite easy job and took 2.5 hours start to finish.

I put the car up on the lower height of the quickjack, and used a trolley jack to lift each side, remove the strut top nut and slowly lower everything down. Un-bolted the stock top hats from the body, cleaned up the seam sealant so that the reinforcement rings seated flat, then put it all back together.

Aligning the shock through the top hat requires you to push the whole shock whilst jacking. I did this on my own (wife was asleep), but it would be far easier if you had a helper.

The difference to steering feedback is impressive, as is the increase in ride comfort. I guess the body was doing some of the suspension work previously, and that's all undamped. I'm running the stock suspension rather than upgraded, and I'm impressed with the improvement.

Nezil

Good feedback.

BP

[3t3p]

You totally can feel the suspension is now working! I defy anyone to say its not noticeable.

I'm of the opinion that every member who bothers to frequent these forums with an OG M2 should do this retrofit.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by 3t3p

You totally can feel the suspension is now working! I defy anyone to say its not noticeable.

I'm of the opinion that every member who bothers to frequent these forums with an OG M2 should do this retrofit.

I couldn't say it better myself.

I went for a drive again today. Which sounds strange to say, but because with the lock down in the Bay Area and now CA, there really isn't a whole lot of reasons to go out for 'essentials'!

Anyway, during my drive, I was just astounded at the difference to comfort and steering feel. Even slight differences in camber or tiny bumps in the road. It's as if the car was bouncing around like crazy before in comparison.

...and I don't even have the CFRP section fitted yet!

[Nezil]

Some photos of the install and post install:

A small amount of seam sealant removal needed to fit the reinforcement rings flat to the strut tops:

Left and right sides:

Overview:

It's not much to look at yet because the CFRP isn't fitted, and the plastic trim pieces haven't come in to the local dealer yet. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get the trim pieces, but the CFRP is coming from England and won't be here for a couple of weeks.

I did remove the 12v cable and bend it into an 'S' shape to make it less close to the brace. Obviously disconnected the battery before installing:

As a total aside... I managed to do the stupid thing we've all read about - shut the trunk after disconnecting the battery, with both seat backs firmly in place! After getting over the initial panic, I tried attaching a 12v power supply to the jump start posts under the hood, and it worked! Powered up the car from the 12v power supply and the trunk opened as normal.

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by Nezil

A small amount of seam sealant removal needed to fit the reinforcement rings flat to the strut tops:

FWIW - I also chose to fit (optional) black rings to my RHD car. In my case, these fitted flush and flat ie w/o any clash of seam sealant.

Good tip from Nezil's DIY if fitting the rings is check how they sit 1st and do any remediation on the seam sealant as necessary.

[3t3p]

You're gonna love the CF in the engine bay it looks fantastic.

I'm stoked to get PS4S 255/35 and 275/35 and MSS springs, going to make her handle great.

Then stage two may happen...

[Nezil]

I thought I'd post some updates while I wait for the CFRP brace to arrive... To be honest, I'm not 100% sure that it will arrive because a) I bought it from an eBay seller in the UK, b) It shows as shipped but the seller has gone quiet and there is no tracking number, and c) Covid-19. Thankfully PayPal / eBay buyer protection saves me if it doesn't arrive, but we'll have to wait and see what happens.

Anyway, my local dealer, who I have a wholesale account with, got in the trim pieces I'd ordered yesterday so I've fitted them now as well.

You do need the new bottom of windshield plastic part because as you can see in the photos below, it dips down at the sides and the stock 2 series part does not; the M2C / M3 / M4 side covers will not fit to the stock 2 series part. I think you could probably get the stock 2 series side covers, under windshield part and fender side trim to work with a bit of trimming, but each part would end up compromised, and I wanted this retrofit to be as factory looking as possible.

The central foam seal does need to be trimmed. I guess the M3 / M4 part would be the correct length, and I hate cutting parts on my car, but I can always buy a stock part if I want to go back to stock - I live under the stupid and pointless illusion that I could put my car all back to un-fettled stock should I want to.

The rubber strut top covers look like they're never going to fit, and BMW totally cheaped out here. The parts used are from the M3 / M4, but they never re-tooled for the M2C! The sections that but up to the fenders are therefore way too long, and BMW's solution? Just tuck them into the gap! I even called my dealer to see if there was another part for the M2C that I couldn't find, but they had the same part that I'd ordered. It was only when I looked at under-hood pictures of the M2C that I realised what I had to do - Very cheap BMW, very cheap! One nice thing about these rubber covers is that the provide some insulation around brace beside the 12v terminal.

You're going to need quite a few additional plastic rivet clips for this retrofit:

• Stock uses two for the left strut top cover and one for the right; none for the bulkhead side covers - total 3
• The retrofit will require 4 for the right and 5 for the left strut top covers, and one for each bulkhead side cover - total 11
• So 8 additional rivet clips needed

I found that I had to sand down the centre pin in some of the rivet clips, and trim some of them shorter because they were going into holes that were too thick and wouldn't allow expansion, or too shallow.

For the left strut top there is a metal bracket on the M2C / M3 / M4 that holds the coolant expansion tank. We don't need this, and that leaves no place for the rivet clip! Maybe I'm crazy, but it looked odd having a hole where the clips should be, so I put a plain washer behind and fitted one anyway.

I'll update the list I made in an earlier post with all of the parts I used now that I'm sort of done. For now, photos:

[M Fifty]

Looking good. The rivets used in the M2C definitely fit, so I think there's some further research to be done on part numbers. So - for example - in your second pic (and the first one below), the bracket for the ABS unit is different on the M2C and provides more clearance. Pictures of an M2C in a Dealership

[PRustan]

I'm going through this process as well and this thread has been a huge help. Big thanks to everyone who has submitted info to the thread.

Only difference so far is that I removed all of the seam sealant from underneath where the top supports sit on the strut tops. Then prepped and painted it to ensure that there is no exposed metal.

One question: how do you install the blind rivet nuts on the fender edges?

Peter

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Looking good. The rivets used in the M2C defintielyfit, so I think there's som further research to be done on part numbers. So - for example - in the second pic, the bracket for the ABS unit is different on the M2C and provide more clearance. Pictures of an M2C in a Dealership

Interesting... I can see that the brackets do indeed look slightly different, but the part number is the same on RealOEM, same for the M2, 3 and 4, including the OG M2.

One of the reasons that I had to trim the clips is that I have fitted the reinforcing rings. This removes the clearance beneath the strut that is there on the M4.

I'm pretty sure the part numbers are correct; I watched a few videos of suspension work being done on M3s and M4s to see what they had, and photos like those that you posted of the M2C. The M2C photo you posted is from a RHD model by the way, so there are some differences. That might also explain the ABS unit bracket difference.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by PRustan

I'm going through this process as well and this thread has been a huge help. Big thanks to everyone who has submitted info to the thread.

Only difference so far is that I removed all of the seam sealant from underneath where the top supports sit on the strut tops. Then prepped and painted it to ensure that there is no exposed metal.

One question: how do you install the blind rivet nuts on the fender edges?

Peter

The method I used was described on a website somewhere, but I can't remember which one. In any case, what I did was to use a bolt with a washer, an oversized nut, and a serrated shake proof washer. That's the order that they go in as well. You then simply tighten the bolt whilst holding the oversized nut with another spanner (wrench). For me this ended up needing a 17mm and a 19mm spanner; 19 to hold the oversized nut, and 17 to tighten down.

The way this works is that the shake proof washer gets crushed into the soft metal of the oversized nut and the rivnut, allowing you to effectively hold the rivnut still while you tighten the bolt, which pulls up the rivnut tight.

I did find that I needed a new shake proof washer for each side, because after it was crushed the first time, it didn't grip so well any more.

The more difficult thing to do is to torque the bolt down after you've fitted the brace, because it's sort of under the fender, and in a kind of cup; not good access I'm afraid.

Best of luck!

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by Nezil

Interesting... I can see that the brackets do indeed look slightly different, but the part number is the same on RealOEM, same for the M2, 3 and 4, including the OG M2.

One of the reasons that I had to trim the clips is that I have fitted the reinforcing rings. This removes the clearance beneath the strut that is there on the M4.

I'm pretty sure the part numbers are correct; I watched a few videos of suspension work being done on M3s and M4s to see what they had, and photos like those that you posted of the M2C. The M2C photo you posted is from a RHD model by the way, so there are some differences. That might also explain the ABS unit bracket difference.

The main difference at this part of the engine bay between LHD and RHD appears to be the vacuum hoses for the brake servo (which is on the 'wrong' side as far as the intake is concerned.

The part numbers as you say are consistent across the different models, even though they differ in appearance. I suspect that RealOEM has an error though, as even if you look at the M2C pages relating to the rubber cover that goes over the top of the strut, it shows the part numbers (and lack of plastic rivets) that go with the non-C.

[PRustan]

Thanks Nezil.

On my car the ABS bracket is definitely in the way and I need to look at what I can do to make sure that it clears. I also had to massage one of the brake lines to ensure that there was clearance for the brace.

Peter

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by PRustan

Thanks Nezil.

On my car the ABS bracket is definitely in the way and I need to look at what I can do to make sure that it clears. I also had to massage one of the brake lines to ensure that there was clearance for the brace.

Peter

Can you share a photo PRustan? I'd be very surprised if there are differences. I know that RealOEM can be wrong, but when that was the case, we only needed to look at the M3 / M4 parts to find the correct number, and those vehicles still use the same bracket.

After fitting, one of the brake lines was touching the brace for me, but I pushed it down a couple of millimetres quite easily and now nothing is touching.

[PRustan]

Difficult to take a picture but hopefully you can see it in these. With everything in place, the brace is balancing on the ABS bracket. When flush with the strut top, the fender mounting point is about 3-4 mm above the blind rivet.





Hmmm...couldn't get the images to load directly.

Peter

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by PRustan

Difficult to take a picture but hopefully you can see it in these. With everything in place, the brace is balancing on the ABS bracket. When flush with the strut top, the fender mounting point is about 3-4 mm above the blind rivet.





Hmmm...couldn't get the images to load directly.

Peter

I think there is a way to use Google Drive to post images, but I usually use imgbb. Anyway, the links work if you right click on them and open in an new tab.

I'll go and check mine, I don't think it looks like that, but I'm interested to see now! I'll kick myself if I hadn't noticed that issue when fitting.

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by Nezil

I think there is a way to use Google Drive to post images, but I usually use imgbb. Anyway, the links work if you right click on them and open in an new tab.

I'll go and check mine, I don't think it looks like that, but I'm interested to see now! I'll kick myself if I hadn't noticed that issue when fitting.

OK, I checked mine, and it looks like this:

As you can see, mine is torqued down, and though the bracket is definitely touching, it is only touching at one side. I double checked the bolt torque to be sure, and it is definitely tight.

If you look at the bracket on the white RHD car earlier in this thread, while it does look different, it also looks like the bracket is touching, and maybe even being forced down slightly.

I'm interested to know if you do find a different part, but I don't think you will, and I'm reasonably happy with how it's fitted right now. If you don't find a different part, you're going to have to just squash the clamp I think.

[Nezil]

I've updated my previous post with the full parts list that I used. Added now are the replacement nuts for the sway bar drop link that you must undo to remove the strut even if you're only moving it out of the way as I did. Also added is the part number for the rivet clips mentioned earlier. I've also changed the quantities of the bolts in a couple of places. The numbers were off because they were previously calculated from differences between the M2C / M3 / M4 and our OG M2. Obviously there are other things going on around the brace in those cars that we don't have, and the M3 / M4 has additional bracing that is bolted to the back of the Aluminium strut brace. This should be the complete final list, unless PRustan manages to find a different part number for the ABS unit bracket.

             Description              |               BMW Description            | Part Number | Qty Needed |         Notes

                                                     - Strut Reinforcement - (Optional, and not on M2C)

Strut reinforcement                   | Reinforcement for support bearing, left  | 31302361991 | 1          |
Strut reinforcement                   | Reinforcement for support bearing, right | 31302361992 | 1          |
Longer screws for reinforcement plate | Hex screw (M8X33 10.9 ZNS3)              | 31307855400 | 10         | Renew 30 Nm + 90 Degrees

                                                                    - Aluminum Strut Brace -

Aluminum strut brace                  | Strut brace                              | 31127855855 | 1          |
Aluminum brace to strut top bolt      | Torx screw with collar (ASA M8X30)       | 31106859809 | 6          | 28 Nm
Aluminum brace to fender top bolt     | Torx screw with collar (M10X30-PC-10.9)  | 33326796225 | 2          | 34 Nm
Aluminum brace to bulkhead bolt       | Hex bolt with washer (M10X25-10.9)       | 31106854219 | 2          | Renew 56Nm + 90 Degrees
Rivnut for top of fender              | Blind rivet nut, flat headed (M10)       | 51718065070 | 2          |
Strut top hat for M2C brace           | Guide support                            | 31307853702 | 2          |
Strut top nut                         | Nut, self-locking (M14X1,5-05 ZNS3       | 34339806226 | 2          | Renew 71 Nm
Sway bar drop link nut                | Hexagon nut with collar                  | 33326768884 | 2          | Renew 56 Nm

                                                                     - Carbon CFRP Brace -

CFRP U shaped brace                   | Strut, CFRP, front end                   | 51618061631 | 1          |
CFRP to aluminum brace bolt           | Hex bolt with washer (M8X32-ZNS3)        | 11287839136 | 4          | Renew 28Nm
CFRP brace to front                   | Hex bolt with washer (M8X22-8.8-ZNS3)    | 22326760945 | 2          | Renew 28Nm

                                                                        - Plastic Trim -

Rubber strut top cover                | Left engine hood sealing                 | 51768066661 | 1          |
Rubber strut top cover                | Right engine hood sealing                | 51768066662 | 1          |
Top of fender to hood plastic         | Sealing side panel, left                 | 51768073533 | 1          |
Top of fender to hood plastic         | Sealing side panel, right                | 51768073534 | 1          |
Under window plastic cowl             | Cowl panel cover, Part 1                 | 51718073545 | 1          |
Right bulkead cover                   | Cowl panel cover, Part 2                 | 51718059699 | 1          |
Left bulkhead cover                   | Cover for units compartment              | 64318059697 | 1          |
Plastic rivet clips                   | Expanding Rivet                          | 51118174185 | 8          |

                                                                         - To return to stock -

Strut brace to strut top              | Torx screw with collar (ASA M10X20)      | 07147270121 | 2          | Renew 56 Nm + 90 Degrees
Strut brace to bulkhead bolt          | Hex bolt with washer (M10X25-10.9)       | 31106854219 | 2          | Renew 56 Nm + 90 Degrees
Strut top nut                         | Nut, self-locking (M14X1,5-05 ZNS3       | 34339806226 | 2          | Renew 71 Nm
Shorter screws w/o reinforcement      | Hex screws (M8X30-10.9)                  | 31306869931 | 10         | Renew 30 Nm + 90 Degrees

[PRustan]

I didn't find anything different and just ended up compressing the ABS bracket. There was enough squish in the rubber mounts for the ABS bracket that everything tightened down OK. Hopefully there won't be too much movement or wear to cause a problem for the bracket or the brace.

One other thing I noticed was that the used aluminum brace that I picked up only has two threaded mounting holes per side for the carbon piece. The rear most holes do not have any threads in them. Looking at the used carbon brace, there is evidence of screws having been fitted to the rear most holes. There is clearance underneath the aluminum brace so I just used a couple of nuts to hold the screws on the back side.

On the right side cover over the master cylinder, the hole on the far right by the fender does not hold the expanding rivet very well. The hole is too deep in the brace and the expanding rivet does not have an edge to bite on. I'll have to see if I can find a better solution there.

Peter

[Nezil]

Originally Posted by PRustan

I didn't find anything different and just ended up compressing the ABS bracket. There was enough squish in the rubber mounts for the ABS bracket that everything tightened down OK. Hopefully there won't be too much movement or wear to cause a problem for the bracket or the brace.

Judging by how BMW cheaped out with the strut covers just using M3 / M4 ones without re-tooling, I have a feeling that there isn't another part available.

One other thing I noticed was that the used aluminum brace that I picked up only has two threaded mounting holes per side for the carbon piece. The rear most holes do not have any threads in them. Looking at the used carbon brace, there is evidence of screws having been fitted to the rear most holes. There is clearance underneath the aluminum brace so I just used a couple of nuts to hold the screws on the back side.

The M2C doesn't use these holes, and the M3 and M4 have the additional bracing parts that would attach to the bulkhead behind the aluminium brace. The 2 series, including the M2C do not have a hole or rivnut for those parks, so they're not used. This is why I updated the parts list above to show 4 bolts needed, not 6. I like your thinking with the nuts though!

On the right side cover over the master cylinder, the hole on the far right by the fender does not hold the expanding rivet very well. The hole is too deep in the brace and the expanding rivet does not have an edge to bite on. I'll have to see if I can find a better solution there.

I managed to get mine to hold, but I used new clips. I couldn't push the centre pin into the clip, so I sanded it down and it fits fine now. I just have to remember which clip to use when I take it apart now.

[SIE_M2]

Are those with this mod seeing an improvement in steering in comfort or sport/sport plus?

[Bee Pee]

Originally Posted by SIE_M2

Are those with this mod seeing an improvement in steering in comfort or sport/sport plus?

Yes - adding rigidity of the body helps both suspension and steering ie less flex helps response and feel, regardless of comfort or both sport modes, even just with alloy brace part. Adding CFRP part, adds to body stiffness further and so improving benefits a little more.