[skiparock]

Installed the bms clutch stop with the 3 washers and it's great. I'd like to know if you have it as well and did you put lots of miles on clutch with no issues, even other bmw models? I saw random posts about eventual clutch release bearing/cone issues because in the posters mind the clutch still isn't fully disengaged. I think it's probably user error slamming 1-2 but who knows

[M2guru]

It's difficult to know how disengaged the clutch is at various washer levels. The clutch might "feel" better engaging/grabbing as soon as you begin to release the clutch pedal, but the clutch might not be fully disengaging when you push the pedal in. I bought the BMS clutch pedal stop and had three washers in for a day or two, but knowing how the clutch pedal works and how a person is likely to not know when it is fully disengaged, I went down to one washer...and am even thinking of removing it all together. I am feeling I shouldn't have wasted my money on it. It's not worth it to me to wear the synchro early.

[Mint]

I'd love to see some more posts on this...

[DrAnzo2.0]

You guys have me worried. I just uninstalled mine. Even with the 3 washers I feel like I still have a lot of distance lifting up until the clutch is engaged.

[skiparock]

I removed two washers and will keep it installed. Seems plenty of space before clutch grabs with this setup. Although it be great to hear someone at 100k miles with 3 washers

[M2guru]

I haven't tried it in my 2018 M2, but for my DSM here is a guide for testing clutch drag on the DSM, logically, it should be the same test:

- With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
- Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
- Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
- Shift the car into 1st gear.
- Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move.

It's that first step that could make the difference in if the car moves or not. If the car moves, the clutch is dragging and your synchros will wear prematurely when shifting - time to remove a washer.

Taken from here: https://www.jackstransmissions.com/p...kills-synchros

[ZPrime]

Originally Posted by M2guru

I haven't tried it in my 2018 M2, but for my DSM here is a guide for testing clutch drag on the DSM, logically, it should be the same test:

- With the vehicle running, disengage the e-brake so it can roll.
- Push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there.
- Turn off your launch limiter so the engine can hit the rev limiter. You MUST DO THIS!! If you do not, then there is no point in performing this test.
- Shift the car into 1st gear.
- Rev the engine up, while the clutch pedal is depressed all the way to the floor, until you feel the car start to move forward.

If the vehicle moves forward below the rev limiter, your clutch is dragging. Do not drive until the problem is fixed, or your synchros will be ruined! Unit will also be hard to shift, so DON’T DRIVE OR FORCE IT INTO GEAR! If everything is correct, the vehicle will not move.

It's that first step that could make the difference in if the car moves or not. If the car moves, the clutch is dragging and your synchros will wear prematurely when shifting - time to remove a washer.

Taken from here: https://www.jackstransmissions.com/p...kills-synchros

LOL that seems like a perfect way to glaze a clutch or flywheel, especially the explanation to rev the engine all the way to redline.

The right way to check this is with two people, one inside the car and one using the inspection window on the flywheel. I don't know if this car has one but I would expect it should (pretty standard feature on manual transmission cars).

[Lukeni]

You can check if your clutch is fully disengaged by using an app like bimmerlink and see if the torque sensor on the clutch has some input

[Icsunonove]

Originally Posted by Lukeni

You can check if your clutch is fully disengaged by using an app like bimmerlink and see if the torque sensor on the clutch has some input

http://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho...php?p=22352880

#97

[atomic837]

Just as a side perspective... I've been running a clutch stop on my 135i for 8 years now (over 100,000 miles), and no issues with the clutch so far.

The stop on there is probably equivalent to the two washer variant of the BMS that I have on my M2.

[bluescoupe]

Originally Posted by atomic837

Just as a side perspective... I've been running a clutch stop on my 135i for 8 years now (over 100,000 miles), and no issues with the clutch so far.

The stop on there is probably equivalent to the two washer variant of the BMS that I have on my M2.

Agreed. I had the BMS clutch stop on my 335is for 5 years, up to 120K miles. Everything was fine, no issues.
Got a new one for the M2.

[M2guru]

Exactly what the OP was looking for mileage examples...except for one thing...wrong car and different parts.

Glazing would not be likely with clutch drag unless it's REALLY dragging and if it was, you would know it's dragging and not have to do this procedure.

If there is an inspection window, that sounds like an option, too. If the app is telling you accurate information, that seems like the best/easiest option.

[sharpmoney]

Originally Posted by M2guru

It's difficult to know how disengaged the clutch is at various washer levels. The clutch might "feel" better engaging/grabbing as soon as you begin to release the clutch pedal, but the clutch might not be fully disengaging when you push the pedal in. I bought the BMS clutch pedal stop and had three washers in for a day or two, but knowing how the clutch pedal works and how a person is likely to not know when it is fully disengaged, I went down to one washer...and am even thinking of removing it all together. I am feeling I shouldn't have wasted my money on it. It's not worth it to me to wear the synchro early.

this thread has me wondering if i should install with just 1 washer or dont bother at all......does seem like almost everyone has no issues with it though.

[Mosely]

Originally Posted by sharpmoney

this thread has me wondering if i should install with just 1 washer or dont bother at all......does seem like almost everyone has no issues with it though.

I had it installed for a week with 2 washers, 1st to 2nd was feeling extra notchy. When down to 1 washer and it was the same. Removed it within a week and haven't looked back.

[jkoral]

I have used a clutch stop in all my previous BMWs (since 1996). Over 250K miles, with no problems. I also had short shift kits and removed the CDV (if applicable).

That said, my M2 is currently stock -- no clutch stop, no SSK, stock CDV (slave cylinder), for no real specific reason.

[sharpmoney]

just put it in with 1 washer, didnt go in that easily, but pretty happy with 1 washer so it should be safe. will try the bimmercode torque test as i have one of those BLE things.

[Hrothgar]

Originally Posted by DrAnzo2.0

You guys have me worried. I just uninstalled mine. Even with the 3 washers I feel like I still have a lot of distance lifting up until the clutch is engaged.

Same. I was thinking of putting even MORE washers on...