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      04-07-2020, 10:15 PM   #1
Detroit M
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Fuel-It! Bluetooth Ethanol Sensor - 12v Power Connection

Has anyone run this sensor? Last thing I have left to do is install the 12v wiretap (Fuel-It! supplied a 3M wiretap) Does anyone have any advice on where to make the connection?

Fuel-It! said to connect to jump terminal or fuse box. But I’m having trouble picking the correct wire... I don’t want a wire that is always hot.
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      04-08-2020, 01:24 AM   #2
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I’ve got it sorted out. Using fuse 46 in the front power distribution box with a fuse tap.
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      04-08-2020, 11:24 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit M View Post
I’ve got it sorted out. Using fuse 46 in the front power distribution box with a fuse tap.
You don't need to use a fuse tap if you find an un-used fuse. Simply run a crimp up to the back of the fuse panel and clip it in.

Were you about to close the lid with a fuse tap in place?
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      04-08-2020, 11:51 AM   #4
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I'd be surprised if it closed. We had some on hand and it simply wasn't going to close. It's as if the top was designed to keep the fuses from working their way out. So, we purchased a double leaf spring contact from ECS Tuning (BMW part# 61130007438). That or pick one up from your local dealership if they have one in stock. The wire is pretty heavy gauge but works perfect.

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Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
You don't need to use a fuse tap if you find an un-used fuse. Simply run a crimp up to the back of the fuse panel and clip it in.

Were you about to close the lid with a fuse tap in place?
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      04-08-2020, 11:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Monika View Post
I'd be surprised if it closed. We had some on hand and it simply wasn't going to close. It's as if the top was designed to keep the fuses from working their way out. So, we purchased a double leaf spring contact from ECS Tuning (BMW part# 61130007438). That or pick one up from your local dealership if they have one in stock. The wire is pretty heavy gauge but works perfect.
Yep, that's what I used for my meth controller. I don't remember the fuse number I used now, but that was the reason I made the spreadsheet, because I needed power inside the car.

I was shocked how few fuses are actually used, and annoyed that my dash cam install uses fuse taps in the trunk. I will re-install those when I get around to it, but fuse taps do at least fit there.
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      04-08-2020, 12:18 PM   #6
///Monika
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Exactly, plenty of available slots up front. Thankfully when we installed the BPM4 in the trunk, it had inline fuses which allowed us to tie directly into the ground and power (it nicely goes to sleep) lugs. The spreadsheet you created (and a scan of the fuse locations) should be a sticky in the electronics section.

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Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I was shocked how few fuses are actually used, and annoyed that my dash cam install uses fuse taps in the trunk. I will re-install those when I get around to it, but fuse taps do at least fit there.
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      04-08-2020, 07:47 PM   #7
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The lid did not close. I had to modify it and plan to add some rubber stripping & silicone to make it watertight... I saw Nezils post about the clip and part numbers but it would have taken a week to get the parts that I don’t have... (dad life 1&3yr olds + plus doing the work on weekends with friends = LOL good luck finding time to work on it!)

You all on this forum are a real resource. Glad the community is strong here, otherwise weekend warriors like myself would never be able to have the cool stuff 😎!
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      04-09-2020, 09:10 AM   #8
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So sorry it took so long to get back to these posts. Had to go into the office (totally empty) yesterday and I was there pretty late. So I'm back at home, serving, being of service and all.

That fuse box is a real pain. Almost as if they were trying to hermetically seal it. Since we're trying to reduce as much attention (BMW techs) to the install as possible, we did the following (facing the vehicle):

- Removed the lid.
- Released the fuse box, placed it aside (as much as possible).
- Half way down inside and to the left (center on center), grab a right angle drill.
- Drill a hole just shy of 1/2" (we used a step bit).
- Grab a nylon PG7 (liquid tight strain relief).
- Take the spring contact wire (61130007438) and route the seal and nut inside the box.
- Now run the wire through the hole.
- Now take the wire (outside the box) and drop the outside part of the PG7.
- Now insert a heat shrink tube.
- Solder as needed to power wire then heat shrink over connection.
- Take the wire (outside) and place the PG7 over the heat tubing.
- Tighten and make sure there's no slack.
- Now you can pull the wire and tighten the nut on the back side (inside box).

That's it... I know you figured out another method but this is extremely clean and you will never notice. This also keeps you from trying to fit your hands in those hard to reach areas. I'll add pics to my LPFP to HPFP post and part numbers.

Be safe out there !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit M View Post
The lid did not close. I had to modify it and plan to add some rubber stripping & silicone to make it watertight... I saw Nezils post about the clip and part numbers but it would have taken a week to get the parts that I don’t have... (dad life 1&3yr olds + plus doing the work on weekends with friends = LOL good luck finding time to work on it!)

You all on this forum are a real resource. Glad the community is strong here, otherwise weekend warriors like myself would never be able to have the cool stuff 😎!
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      04-09-2020, 10:45 AM   #9
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I have a different question about this, unrelated to power...

Why are you guys installing this sensor? Is it a) to help you gauge the amount of E85 when you're doing a blend at the pump, or b) connected to the DME with an auto-adapting tune some how?

If b) which tune supports Flex Fuel on our engines?

As I understand it, it might be possible to have a tune read in data from an additional 0 ~ 5v line, because I investigated this for a meth flow signal, but I'm not aware of any tuner that's either able or doing any adaptation to tables based on such a signal.

Have things changed since I looked into this about 12 months ago?
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      04-09-2020, 11:14 AM   #10
///Monika
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(A) Yes (interim).
(B) Yes (long term) whenever MHD releases a flex fuel module (or is it Motiv?).

You are correct, the signal (unused right now; white wire) varies from 0-5v based on content. So nothing has changed since you researched this, we're just waiting for MHD to release support. Until then, we have to use the mobile app (bluetooth sensor) to tell us how much fuel to mix with corn. Once released, we can ditch the bluetooth sensor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I have a different question about this, unrelated to power...

Why are you guys installing this sensor? Is it a) to help you gauge the amount of E85 when you're doing a blend at the pump, or b) connected to the DME with an auto-adapting tune some how?

If b) which tune supports Flex Fuel on our engines?

As I understand it, it might be possible to have a tune read in data from an additional 0 ~ 5v line, because I investigated this for a meth flow signal, but I'm not aware of any tuner that's either able or doing any adaptation to tables based on such a signal.

Have things changed since I looked into this about 12 months ago?
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      04-09-2020, 08:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Monika View Post
So sorry it took so long to get back to these posts. Had to go into the office (totally empty) yesterday and I was there pretty late. So I'm back at home, serving, being of service and all.

That fuse box is a real pain. Almost as if they were trying to hermetically seal it. Since we're trying to reduce as much attention (BMW techs) to the install as possible, we did the following (facing the vehicle):

- Removed the lid.
- Released the fuse box, placed it aside (as much as possible).
- Half way down inside and to the left (center on center), grab a right angle drill.
- Drill a hole just shy of 1/2" (we used a step bit).
- Grab a nylon PG7 (liquid tight strain relief).
- Take the spring contact wire (61130007438) and route the seal and nut inside the box.
- Now run the wire through the hole.
- Now take the wire (outside the box) and drop the outside part of the PG7.
- Now insert a heat shrink tube.
- Solder as needed to power wire then heat shrink over connection.
- Take the wire (outside) and place the PG7 over the heat tubing.
- Tighten and make sure there's no slack.
- Now you can pull the wire and tighten the nut on the back side (inside box).

That's it... I know you figured out another method but this is extremely clean and you will never notice. This also keeps you from trying to fit your hands in those hard to reach areas. I'll add pics to my LPFP to HPFP post and part numbers.

Be safe out there !
Very Nice and Clean!!! Mine is a “get the job done” for sure... it’s really the only area I didn’t do a nice job on. Wish the community had this info about 2-weeks ago! :
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      04-09-2020, 08:20 PM   #12
Detroit M
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I have a different question about this, unrelated to power...

Why are you guys installing this sensor? Is it a) to help you gauge the amount of E85 when you're doing a blend at the pump, or b) connected to the DME with an auto-adapting tune some how?

If b) which tune supports Flex Fuel on our engines?

As I understand it, it might be possible to have a tune read in data from an additional 0 ~ 5v line, because I investigated this for a meth flow signal, but I'm not aware of any tuner that's either able or doing any adaptation to tables based on such a signal.

Have things changed since I looked into this about 12 months ago?
For me, it’s just to have some peace of mind about the “true” ethanol content I’m running, and to avoid the hassle of testing.
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