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      05-19-2020, 12:18 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
That's odd, they updated my software, after an iDrive controller replacement and didn't say anything about my switch or the Euro switch coding.

I do know that the system does block a software update, if it doesn't detect all the factory modules installed, so they aren't BS you there..

This is noted in the ISTA software.
Y'know, now I'm not sure if I had correctly coded the car for the switch when I took it in. Maybe the error they were seeing was just the FEM complaining that the switch didn't match the coding. But I thought I had discovered all of this switch coding mess and made sure it matched the first time.

Oh, or maybe it was when they flashed everything to latest istep, the car then complained that the switch didn't match? (Since they should've defaulted all the coding back to stock as part of the istep upgrade...)

They threw shade over it regardless, and I'm trying to avoid that, at least while I still have warranty to worry about...
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      05-19-2020, 12:23 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPrime View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
That's odd, they updated my software, after an iDrive controller replacement and didn't say anything about my switch or the Euro switch coding.

I do know that the system does block a software update, if it doesn't detect all the factory modules installed, so they aren't BS you there..

This is noted in the ISTA software.

Oh, or maybe it was when they flashed everything to latest istep, the car then complained that the switch didn't match? (Since they should've defaulted all the coding back to stock as part of the istep upgrade...)
Bingo!

They gave me back my car with some errors for the Euro switch and warm/cold bulb checks, for the taillight.

They didn't say anything about the errors, just handed me my key fob and I left.

I recoded the car right there, in their parking lot, cleared the errors and everything was fine, since then.
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      05-19-2020, 05:50 PM   #25
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      05-30-2020, 04:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Bingo!

They gave me back my car with some errors for the Euro switch and warm/cold bulb checks, for the taillight.

They didn't say anything about the errors, just handed me my key fob and I left.

I recoded the car right there, in their parking lot, cleared the errors and everything was fine, since then.


What is the value of coding the warm/cold bulb checks? I've left if alone as the car came with those setting "not active".

Also, my understanding is that if you swap the OG cluster for a 'new' LCI cluster, the correct mileage will display on the new LCI cluster. If you have to swap the original cluster back in for a trip to the dealer, a) will the mileage update on the original cluster and b) when you swap the LCI cluster back in (this is now a 'used' cluster) will the mileage sync back up to be correct? I wouldn't be worried if it was off by the mileage to the dealer and back but it would still need to work.
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      06-01-2020, 05:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
What is the value of coding the warm/cold bulb checks? I've left if alone as the car came with those setting "not active".

Also, my understanding is that if you swap the OG cluster for a 'new' LCI cluster, the correct mileage will display on the new LCI cluster. If you have to swap the original cluster back in for a trip to the dealer, a) will the mileage update on the original cluster and b) when you swap the LCI cluster back in (this is now a 'used' cluster) will the mileage sync back up to be correct? I wouldn't be worried if it was off by the mileage to the dealer and back but it would still need to work.
Good question. I don't know if my garage manually inputted the mileage or not into the new cluster. I think I recall them saying they could only do the retrofit with a new cluster but it was a little while ago..might be relevant
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      06-01-2020, 06:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Bingo!

They gave me back my car with some errors for the Euro switch and warm/cold bulb checks, for the taillight.

They didn't say anything about the errors, just handed me my key fob and I left.

I recoded the car right there, in their parking lot, cleared the errors and everything was fine, since then.


What is the value of coding the warm/cold bulb checks? I've left if alone as the car came with those setting "not active".

Also, my understanding is that if you swap the OG cluster for a 'new' LCI cluster, the correct mileage will display on the new LCI cluster. If you have to swap the original cluster back in for a trip to the dealer, a) will the mileage update on the original cluster and b) when you swap the LCI cluster back in (this is now a 'used' cluster) will the mileage sync back up to be correct? I wouldn't be worried if it was off by the mileage to the dealer and back but it would still need to work.
The parameters to changed the hot/cold checks is outlined in the thread below:


DIY: LCI Tailights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1405431
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      06-02-2020, 02:38 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
The parameters to changed the hot/cold checks is outlined in the thread below:


DIY: LCI Tailights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1405431
Thanks Poochie, I've been following that thread for a while but I don't see any info about the hot/cold checks. It's 5 pages so it's quite possible that I missed it so I'll have to re-read it when I get a minute.
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      06-02-2020, 02:40 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
The parameters to changed the hot/cold checks is outlined in the thread below:


DIY: LCI Tailights https://www.2addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1405431
Thanks Poochie, I've been following that thread for a while but I don't see any info about the hot/cold checks. It's 5 pages so it's quite possible that I missed it so I'll have to re-read it when I get a minute.
It's on the first post, of the first page.




.
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      06-05-2020, 03:39 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
[B]It's on the first post, of the first page.[/B
ah okay, I was not clear in what I was asking!

I was not asking for the specific 'word' value to enter, I was asking what was the point, use, or benefit in changing the value of the hot/cold checks from nicht_altiv to aktiv!

I presume you get a warning that the bulb is hot or cold but so what?
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      06-06-2020, 09:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
[B]It's on the first post, of the first page.[/B
ah okay, I was not clear in what I was asking!

I was not asking for the specific 'word' value to enter, I was asking what was the point, use, or benefit in changing the value of the hot/cold checks from nicht_altiv to aktiv!

I presume you get a warning that the bulb is hot or cold but so what?
You change the values from aktiv to nicht aktiv so the bulbs don't flicker while your car is off.

Incandescent bulb equipped cars have the hot and cold checks to make sure they're working. If you switch incandescent to led those hot and cold checks make the bulbs flicker.
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      06-06-2020, 11:18 AM   #33
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You change the values from aktiv to nicht aktiv so the bulbs don't flicker while your car is off.

Incandescent bulb equipped cars have the hot and cold checks to make sure they're working. If you switch incandescent to led those hot and cold checks make the bulbs flicker.
Okay, got it, thanks for the info. I'm planning on moving to the LCI tails so good to know!
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      06-14-2020, 04:21 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Whenever you're updating the vehicle's software, the system does a check to verify all the original, factory hardware is in place.

If you changed any factory modules, it has to be reinstalled prior to the update or it will be rejected.

That's why it's advisable that you always keep the original hardware.I learned this the hard way when I had swap my iDrive controller with the ceramic version from a 7 series.

Since you did indeed save the original cluster, just reinstall it and take it back to them to complete the update. After you reinstalled the original cluster, it's going to display some errors, including a red dot called a "tamper code" since the LCI cluster mapping was saved. You can ignore that, it doesn't need to be recoded for the update.

Afterwards, when the software is updated, you can then replace it back with the LCI cluster and then recode it.
Kinda off topic but can you post a pic of how the ceramic iDrive controller looks in your car? I was thinking about doing it too lol...
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      06-15-2020, 01:21 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsamdar View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
Whenever you're updating the vehicle's software, the system does a check to verify all the original, factory hardware is in place.

If you changed any factory modules, it has to be reinstalled prior to the update or it will be rejected.

That's why it's advisable that you always keep the original hardware.I learned this the hard way when I had swap my iDrive controller with the ceramic version from a 7 series.

Since you did indeed save the original cluster, just reinstall it and take it back to them to complete the update. After you reinstalled the original cluster, it's going to display some errors, including a red dot called a "tamper code" since the LCI cluster mapping was saved. You can ignore that, it doesn't need to be recoded for the update.

Afterwards, when the software is updated, you can then replace it back with the LCI cluster and then recode it.
Kinda off topic but can you post a pic of how the ceramic iDrive controller looks in your car? I was thinking about doing it too lol...
After I had the dealer reprogram my car to erase the variant error, due to the ceramic controller, I left the new, stock controller they installed and resold my ceramic controller.

I actually made back slightly profit, than what I originally paid for my ceramic controller.. :

For the record, the ceramic controller worked 100% efficiently, with the exception of the coding error, highlighted below, due to mismatch equipment, that's not properly coded.

He's a couple of random photos of the ceramic controller, retrofitted, in action:
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      06-17-2020, 01:31 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Poochie View Post
After I had the dealer reprogram my car to erase the variant error, due to the ceramic controller, I left the new, stock controller they installed and resold my ceramic controller.

I actually made back slightly profit, than what I originally paid for my ceramic controller.. :

For the record, the ceramic controller worked 100% efficiently, with the exception of the coding error, highlighted below, due to mismatch equipment, that's not properly coded.

He's a couple of random photos of the ceramic controller, retrofitted, in action:
Thanks man! I'm thinking of getting the one with the metal buttons (plastic buttons feel cheap to me). Where'd you get that carbon trim!
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