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      03-26-2020, 03:08 PM   #67
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Damn basketball!

I went with the CTEK MXS 5.0 and so far, no issues.

https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0

When connecting it up, use the positive terminal and a ground in the engine bay to keep the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) in the loop. You can connect it in the back but it's harder to keep the IBS involved and you have to deal with either not closing the trunk or pinching the wire in the trunk's rubber gasket...no issues for the wire but I wouldn't want to compromise gasket .
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      03-26-2020, 03:37 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
I think my 4.3s have the snowflake. Lots of arguments about using it.
I see. Haha yeah I remember, the ctek does say snow flake mode is for agm as well, so in an attempt to start a debate just use whatever you feel comfortable with. For my mus7002 I have to use snow flake mode because that's the only one that has a voltage suitable for agm battery's as suggested by the instructions.

In the future I'll need a lithium charger when I grab the anti grav battery
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      03-26-2020, 03:48 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
You guys are simultaneously the best and the worst... I've gone and placed an order for the Battery Tender 4A model now, and I'm not sure it's something I need at all!

$50 at Amazon / Costco was too good to resist, but $50 is still $50...
if you let the battery die down, it won't last as long. I've got my 1M on a tender and the original battery is still performing just fine. So if you want to make your battery last, put the car on a tender if not driving it for a period of time.
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      03-26-2020, 04:19 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Nezil View Post
I'm sure the CTEK chargers are fine, but just to close the loop on this, BMW's latest 'Advanced Charger' linked to in the second post has the part number 82-11-0-049-788, and the photo is wrong on the BMW website. It actually looks like this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...35-space-~oeb/

And is nearly identical to the Deltran Battery Tender model here: https://www.batterytender.com/Batter...-12V-4A-Select.

The only difference is that the Deltran model has a 6v / 12v option in addition to the Lithium / AGM option.
Make sure you check the ripple ratings, that's also what made CTEK so good compared to the competition.
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      03-26-2020, 06:58 PM   #71
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I went out and checked my lonely M2 last night... unlocked her and lights etc powered up fine. Didn't try starting it. This is after 5 weeks sitting.

All the same, I'm glad it'll be on a tender in a couple of days. It will be sitting for at least another 2 months.... #sadface
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      03-28-2020, 09:54 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtmurf View Post
Damn basketball!

I went with the CTEK MXS 5.0 and so far, no issues.

https://www.ctek.com/products/vehicle/mxs-5-0

When connecting it up, use the positive terminal and a ground in the engine bay to keep the Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) in the loop. You can connect it in the back but it's harder to keep the IBS involved and you have to deal with either not closing the trunk or pinching the wire in the trunk's rubber gasket...no issues for the wire but I wouldn't want to compromise gasket .
Thanks! So are you saying I only connect one eyelet to the positive terminal under the hood (what about the neg terminal?) and also the ground wire? I'll need a Torx bit correct? Apologies, I'm just trying to get my ducks lined up before I try doing this on one leg.
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      03-28-2020, 10:16 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmac View Post
Thanks! So are you saying I only connect one eyelet to the positive terminal under the hood (what about the neg terminal?) and also the ground wire? I'll need a Torx bit correct? Apologies, I'm just trying to get my ducks lined up before I try doing this on one leg.
I checked the manual and I think i've answered my own question,. There's a positive point under the hood and a bolt that is used as ground for the negative clamp,... is this correct?

Also, anyone know if I should be taking any other steps to maintain the car given it'll be sitting for 3-4 months? Fuel additive etc?
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      03-28-2020, 10:24 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmac View Post
I checked the manual and I think i've answered my own question,. There's a positive point under the hood and a bolt that is used as ground for the negative clamp,... is this correct?

Also, anyone know if I should be taking any other steps to maintain the car given it'll be sitting for 3-4 months? Fuel additive etc?
Yeah I posted before, the metal bolt on the left of the engine bay is the ground. You can loosen that with a torx bit to put the eyelets in.

1) Fuel stabilizer in a full tank of gas to prevent moisture from getting in then let it cycle to the injectors, I use stabil and my car sits 6-7 months/year since we have long winters.

2) Keep the parking brake off and chock the wheels so you dont stretch the parking brake cable. Same goes for the manual transmission, keep it in neutral.

3) Close all of the vents to prevent bugs getting in.

4) Put a piece of wax paper between the windshield and the wipers so it doesn't get siezed.

5) keep the car unlocked if possible to prevent the alarm from adding extra power draw to the car.

6) Change your oil and fluids

7) over inflate your tires to near the side wall limits to prevent tire flat spots, or use tire flat stoppers.

8) wash car, wax it, then clean interior and moisturize leather. Then hang a dehumidifier bag inside the cabin to remove excess moisture to prevent weird smells.

9) If you park on concrete layer the floor with a moisture barrier. Put dryer sheets under the car to prevent rodents and spiders and bugs.

10) Car covers are always nice, put only on a clean car

11) deflate all seat bolsters and lumbar supports

12) trickle charger

13) clean engine bay

DO NOT start it until you're ready to drive it again. This will prevent excess wear to the motor (as oil drains to the sump), and moisture build up in the motor if the car doesn't fully warm up. You also wont have to keep filling the tank back up.
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      03-28-2020, 10:42 PM   #75
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Uh, I think F87source might have thought you said 30 months.

Look, 3-4 months, you don't need to go crazy - heck there are people here that don't even put it on a charger for that long.

But..for me, a guy who parks his 1M for 6 months at a time...besides the CTEK...
1. A Car cover is the best thing you can have for a car that you are storing.
2. If you want, you can over inflate your tires - not the worst idea, and yet, any flat spots you might get in 3 months are gone in the first drive.
3. No need to change fluids unless the car is due for them
4. Fuel stabilizer is optional - however, you would add it to a FULL tank and drive the car for a bit. I seem to remember, that's not an option for you.
5. As noted above, a FULL fuel tank is great to help keep the moisture out, but if you can't, don't worry about it.
6. You can leave it in gear and you can put the parking brake on it

I think people forget that these cars can and often do, sit on dealer lots for months. They are amazing - and unless you are storing it for a year or so, you really don't have to over think it. Based on your condition, just put the charger on it and then drive it when you are all better. And seriously, just connect the charger to the charge point in the engine bay (red capped point) and the ground that you have already found. You can still close the hood - no need to permanently wire it.

CRAP! I forgot #7! If you don't have a loan on the car, turn the insurance off (the collision). That will save you some money and see #8
#8 put a note on the steering wheel (charger connected, put insurance back on) - it is easy to forget that you have the car on a charger and even easier to forget that you shut the insurance off.
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      03-28-2020, 10:59 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
Uh, I think F87source might have thought you said 30 months.

Look, 3-4 months, you don't need to go crazy - heck there are people here that don't even put it on a charger for that long.

But..for me, a guy who parks his 1M for 6 months at a time...besides the CTEK...
1. A Car cover is the best thing you can have for a car that you are storing.
2. If you want, you can over inflate your tires - not the worst idea, and yet, any flat spots you might get in 3 months are gone in the first drive.
3. No need to change fluids unless the car is due for them
4. Fuel stabilizer is optional - however, you would add it to a FULL tank and drive the car for a bit. I seem to remember, that's not an option for you.
5. As noted above, a FULL fuel tank is great to help keep the moisture out, but if you can't, don't worry about it.
6. You can leave it in gear and you can put the parking brake on it

I think people forget that these cars can and often do, sit on dealer lots for months. They are amazing - and unless you are storing it for a year or so, you really don't have to over think it. Based on your condition, just put the charger on it and then drive it when you are all better. And seriously, just connect the charger to the charge point in the engine bay (red capped point) and the ground that you have already found. You can still close the hood - no need to permanently wire it.

CRAP! I forgot #7! If you don't have a loan on the car, turn the insurance off (the collision). That will save you some money and see #8
#8 put a note on the steering wheel (charger connected, put insurance back on) - it is easy to forget that you have the car on a charger and even easier to forget that you shut the insurance off.
Lol, I'm just cautious since I want the car to last problem free.

YES number 7 and 8 are crucial. I don't know how insurance works in the states but in Canada we have parking insurance and I switch to that in the winter so the cost goes down, but if something happens to the car while it is parked i'll still be covered.



1. Yup car cover is great

2. I over inflate the tires because it makes any flat spots go away faster, modern day tires are really good at reforming back to normal shape so no real worries there. You just dont want the pressure to drop if it is cold.

3. I always change fluids, because oil gets acidic as you drive and any sediments like metal will sink to the bottom of the pan as it sits. So unless you want acidic oil wearing away at your engine internals or your oil pump to take a big gulp of particulates on start up then change it. Oil is cheap, engines are not so don't be lazy. Dealerships do have cars sitting for a long period of time, but most of those cars are on new oil.

4. Going without fuel stabilizer for 3ish months probably will be ok, but honestly this shouldn't be optional. I know alot of American fuels have 10% ethanol in it, the 94 octane I use here in Canada also has ethanol in it, so it is best to use fuel stabilizer to prevent the ethanol from absorbing water. Fuel also starts to gum up and go stale which drops octane over time, so if you don't want to replace direct injectors or get knock it is best to get stabilizer. This is also super cheap, so I definitely recommend it. Take a look at the bottom of a lawn mower fuel tank that has sat over winter, and tell me fuel doesn't gum up.

5. Agreed, 3 months is pretty short so it should be fine.

6. Yes you can leave it in gear, but it will stretch out the return spring over time creating more shifter slop. It might not do it after one sitting, but over time it will. Same goes for the parking brake. IMO it's not hard to chock wheels, just use a brick or some wood.


Otherwise yeah don't forget about the insurance thing, you'll save alot of money that way.
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      03-29-2020, 06:49 AM   #77
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OP, I think you have more than enough info here lol but as you are only parking the car for 2 or 3 months, I just snake the cable of the trickle charger in near the hinge and connect it to the points identified in the manual. I'd fill the tank with quality gas and call it good.

I had a friend park his M4 (I know it has a different battery) for almost 7 months and it started with the first turn of the key.
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      03-29-2020, 03:50 PM   #78
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just wanted to say, how happy I am I added this wiring in my trunk so I can hook this up. I WFH normally, but now am driving so little being able to put the charger on it has been a fantastic preventative from any draining that is otherwise unavoidable. Highly recommend everyone do this.
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      03-29-2020, 09:01 PM   #79
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Thank you for all the feedback guys.

The CTEK MXS 5.0 is now connected - used the clamps, didn't bother with the eyelets. Once I'm back on my feet I doubt I'll ever need to use the charger again.

I will look into stabilizer purely because it sounds like a good thing to do.

Car is due for its annual oil change at BMW this month - I just need to figure out how to get the car there. This is mostly just to maintain a good service record with Carfax and BMW given I regularly change the oil in between events anyway.

Tires look fine, I don't think I'll bother with any flat spot avoidance etc - but appreciate all the advice nonetheless!

Thanks again
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      03-29-2020, 10:16 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb804 View Post
I ran the extension along the hood up the base of the wipers. The end of the extension is capped so it's waterproof when not in use.
Any picture of how you ran the extension along the hood?

Thanks.
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      03-30-2020, 06:09 AM   #81
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Quote:
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Any picture of how you ran the extension along the hood?

Thanks.
Not the best picture... there's a lot of space on the left side of the engine compartment. The end of the charger connector runs up by the base of windshield wiper. To connect or disconnect the charger I don't need to open the hood. The connection stays at the base of the wiper.
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      03-30-2020, 10:41 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb804 View Post
Not the best picture... there's a lot of space on the left side of the engine compartment. The end of the charger connector runs up by the base of windshield wiper. To connect or disconnect the charger I don't need to open the hood. The connection stays at the base of the wiper.
Thanks, i'll see how this will work in X3.

The end of the charger connector is just resting below the wiper blades?

I looked at how this could work in the X3.

Any picture of the cable running up by the base of the wipe?

Thanks again.
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      04-01-2020, 05:31 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by dinan5m3 View Post
Thanks, i'll see how this will work in X3.

The end of the charger connector is just resting below the wiper blades?

I looked at how this could work in the X3.

Any picture of the cable running up by the base of the wipe?

Thanks again.
Here you go. Let me know if this helps,
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      04-01-2020, 10:08 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb804 View Post
Here you go. Let me know if this helps,
Yes, picture helps. Thanks again.

I'll try this approach with the X3. I think i have some gaps behind the wipes to tuck in the capped extension cable.
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      04-14-2020, 08:28 AM   #85
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This might be a silly question, but here it goes.

Are these CTEK units designed to be connected to the car and powered 24/7 for an infinite amount of time?

With as little as I'm driving, I just began to wonder if leaving this connected/powered was proper usage or a good idea.

thanks in advance for any guidance.
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      04-14-2020, 09:13 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacMacJac View Post
This might be a silly question, but here it goes.

Are these CTEK units designed to be connected to the car and powered 24/7 for an infinite amount of time?

With as little as I'm driving, I just began to wonder if leaving this connected/powered was proper usage or a good idea.

thanks in advance for any guidance.
Yes, they are designed to not over charge the battery. I don't even want to think of how long my 1M has been on one (and lay off, I live in Chicago dammit )
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      04-14-2020, 02:41 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug_999 View Post
Yes, they are designed to not over charge the battery. I don't even want to think of how long my 1M has been on one (and lay off, I live in Chicago dammit )
+1

Yup the ctek monitors the battery to ensure it doesn't over charge it, and once the battery is charged the ctek stops charging and monitors the battery for decline in charge and based on that it'll charge again.
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      08-20-2020, 05:31 PM   #88
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Given the information and recommendations in this thread, I have bought the CTEK MUS7002 so thanks all!!! I am using the eye hooks pigtail connections instead of the clamps. Open hood, plug in the CTEK and I'm good to go.

Question: I noticed that the engine bay gets pretty hot under general use: any danger for the plastics/wires to melt? After a normal drive, I touch the wires and are warm to the touch. Do you guys use some high heat wiring harnesses for protection? Maybe I'm being paranoid, but I don't open hood every day, last thing I want is to create fire, sparks etc

TIA
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