[Altra]

I originally used ramps, but it wasn't tall enough, ended up jacking up passenger side a bit higher to get some more working space.

[boostaddict305]

Originally Posted by M2guru

I did mine on the ground just fine so a lift isn't necessary. Not even sure a lift would have been easier. I just lifted the front and it didn't have to be that high.

It's not necessary but I think it definitely made things easier

[ronin1k]

Just finished installing Wagner catted downpipe, the fit and finish of this dp is remarkable, I have had zero issue with removing and fitting back the clamps on either side of the dp, so all in all this is an easy job when using quickjack

[serrated]

I have a lift and my car is the m235i but it's virtually the same installation job. It was super easy. Removing the seized v-bands was probably the trickiest part. The rest was super easy. Actually the tricky part was undoing the two clamps that keep the o2 sensor cables in place. Getting the cables out of them was tricky and getting them back in was trickier since you have to do it by feel. (and don't finish without getting them clipped in there because those keep your cables from being able to move and touch the exhaust and melt.)

[M2RAW]

People who install fab speed sport cat, you guys reused the old v band clamps with bolts came with oem? Bought mine used without hardware.

Thanks in advance

[tenkies]

Originally Posted by M2RAW

People who install fab speed sport cat, you guys reused the old v band clamps with bolts came with oem? Bought mine used without hardware.

Thanks in advance

Originally Posted by M2RAW

People who install fab speed sport cat, you guys reused the old v band clamps with bolts came with oem? Bought mine used without hardware.

Thanks in advance

I would recommend getting new. I believe the v band clamps are stretch bolts and my end up leading to a leak down the road

[cecaa850]

Originally Posted by tenkies

I would recommend getting new. I believe the v band clamps are stretch bolts and my end up leading to a leak down the road

Much easier using a new one.

[EDWYER]

He was having some issues after install guess he used the old ones.

[vrooooom]

Can one use a heat gun? I don’t have a torch.

Do we need the claws foot for the removal of the O2 sensors? Socket or an open wrench won’t do this? What size should I get fir this or are they all the same size?

What makes re-fitting the old v-bands tougher? Spraying boot loosening fluid like WD40 doesn’t help?

Finally. Which sound is the turbo spooling sound? At around rpm is that evident?

Thanks.

[tenkies]

I didn't need a heat gun or torch to get the O2 off. I bought a O2 socket off Amazon and had 0 issues.

If you're having issues with the O2 and bolts you could try spraying with a penetrating fluid like PB blaster and letting it sit for a few hours.

The best way to relate the turbo spool sound is the whirling/whistling sound you hear when large diesel trucks take off. I hear mine starting around 1.5-2K RPM then the exhaust drowns out the sound.

[vrooooom]

Thanks. I’ll try to get that o2 socket. It’s a 22mm correct?

[cecaa850]

Crescent wrench worked fine for me. Once the assembly is out of the vehicle the removal is a snap.

[vrooooom]

Finally got my AA DP. Looks good. I almost don't want to have it installed under where no one would see.

No CEL guarantee. I didn't know there are 2 brackets that I need to mount this unto.

I expected (no basis) the holes on the CAT to be bigger though. Will install this weekend.

[vrooooom]

The hardest part of this seems to be the removal of the TOP v-clamp. Is this an easier access from the wheel-well at all? I seem to remember some's video ....but I may just be confused.

[M2Pilot]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

The hardest part of this seems to be the removal of the TOP v-clamp. Is this an easier access from the wheel-well at all? I seem to remember some's video ....but I may just be confused.

I just installed mine and removal was no issue. I used the old clamps with a new gasket where it meets to the turbo. The trickiest part for me was mating the DP to the turbo and getting the top clamp lined up correctly.

Having a lift speeds things up considerably.

[vrooooom]

If one somehow interchanged the 2 sensors, what would happen? CEL?

How do you guys know there’s no leak? I’ve reused all gaskets coz the local dealers don’t even have them in stocks. The hardest part was putting the top clamp while making sure all the brackets are also in the right place.

Took me 3 hrs with someone helping to hand me tools on 2 jack stands in front.

[M2Petrolhead]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

If one somehow interchanged the 2 sensors, what would happen? CEL?

How do you guys know there’s no leak? I’ve reused all gaskets coz the local dealers don’t even have them in stocks. The hardest part was putting the top clamp while making sure all the brackets are also in the right place.

Took me 3 hrs with someone helping to hand me tools on 2 jack stands in front.

I'm looking at the AA as well for my 18M2. How is the 3 month drivability / CEL report?

[tenkies]

I've been running my AA for over a year and a half with no issues or CEL

[vrooooom]

So far no issues. Not expecting one either.

[CantComplain]

Hey All-

Just wanted to update my past post. I had a major bad time putting in the Fabspeed catted dp. 4-5 years later I reverted to OEM, and it was easy peasy. It did take me a full 2-3 hours but it was basically doing it again for the first time. I went slow, and took a lot of breaks because I was basically doing a crunch the whole time. And I got up a few times to watch a youtube that showed how the original brackets were set up.

Was I that much better 4 years later? No, but the "trick" to this job is basically getting it loosely bolted into place with the brackets and connection to the exhaust. Then it's just sitting in space in roughly the right place and it makes getting the top collar aligned soooo much easier. Less than 3 hours including the quickjack setup, belly pan, and actually an oil change since I was in the neighborhood.

And the good news for me is I have a catted downpipe and a tune to list for sale. And a 2017 6MT....

Originally Posted by CantComplain

Nice work and good advice all the way around. I did mine a couple weeks ago and although I'm a DIY guy by nature (I have an R56 cylinder head fresh from the machine shop on my kitchen counter at the moment) I would not do this again. It seriously kicked my ass and I was contemplating towing it to a decent mechanic to bail me out.

My advice for future amateur mechanics:
It was the top flange that did me in. I started with ramps, then ended up jacking the car up from there to give me some extra room. Ultimately I had my wife hanging on to the O2 sensor wire from above to keep it in roughly the right spot while I finagled it in the clamp. Then it took 5 minutes to line it up and get the clamp on it. I just couldn't hold it in the right place and get my hands on the clamp due to the tight space. I understand my cautionary tale is the exception from what I've read here but there have been some other stories and pleas for help so I'd make sure that you knew what you were up against if you were thinking about this yourself. Took me 4 hours with all the trouble, and I now doubt the integrity of the top gasket because I was mashing the downpipe up there. Hopefully the material isn't asbestos either because it was raining down on me....

Yes, the next time would be easier. Ramps are not sufficient IMO. I'm a decent-sized guy and it just wasn't enough room. And the space is really tight to begin with.

TLDR; it's hard but worth it. if you're $300 ahead in life, find a guy.

[ggggbmw]

I recently took a catless downpipe off and put the original catted downpipe back in. (Former owner installed catless, and it was too obnoxious for me.) Learned a lot of useful tips in this thread. Definitely fiddly, but taking my time it was a fairly straight forward 3 hour job.

The top clamp is definitely the tricky part of this job. Old one came out easy, but it was a bit of work to get the new clamp lined up correctly. Having the stock cat mounting brackets helped a lot. Kept the pipe in the correct place while trying to get the clamp aligned. The catless pipe I pulled out didn't have any supports. I imagine it would be a lot harder to align the clamp while trying to hold the pipe in place.

Getting the top clamp tight is another issue. I suspect using a new clamp makes this harder, as I think the C profile expands a bit as it's tightened around the turbo and pipe lips. Reusing the clamp would make that easier.

I also thought about getting a longer bolt to try pulling the ends together. You can't do it with your bare hand, and it's hard to get pliers in there to squeeze the ends together. But, if you had an assortment of longer bolts you could reach between the ends, and tighten with a wrench. Use the bolt that came with the clamp once you get the ends close enough. For temp tightening, any cheap bolt with the right pitch work.

Almost went to the hardware store to find some longer bolts. But I tried getting my biggest channel-lock pliers in there one more time, and a few mad-at-it squeezes finally got the ends together enough to get the bolt in. Easy to tighten from there, if you have fine tooth ratchet.

I did use a new bottom clamp also. Worth it to me just to not have to pry off the old copper seal, de-mangle it, and re-fit it onto the new pipe. New clamp pops right on, a few turns to set the seal, and then the exhaust pops right in. Wrench it down, and it's done.