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      01-16-2020, 08:43 PM   #67
BeastieBombRacing
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Why’d the rotor have to come off?
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      01-17-2020, 01:40 AM   #68
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Can you post pics of the rollbar installation?

Your previous alignment was wack!
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      01-17-2020, 10:55 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Why’d the rotor have to come off?
Was informed that it made room, made things easier, lightened up the components to work with, etc.. Made it simpler.

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Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Can you post pics of the rollbar installation?

Your previous alignment was wack!
Not a lot of "install pix" were taken - but I did snap a couple to share with Studio RSR.

The install video they have is of an M4 (four doors). It's a bit different with just two doors.

RSR also doesn't expect you to put the side bolsters of the back seats or the seat belt covers back in. I wanted to keep it as "stock" as I could. I think they expect you to put in the seat delete - I'm not paying a bunch of bucks for a piece of pressboard covered in Ozite.

First thing was to cut a clearance notch so the top bolster attachment hole was accessible again. Cutting this plate where I did does absolutely NOTHING in damaging structure or strength. The tab just hangs over the lip that the seat belt attaches to and the mounting point for the down bars is the seat belt mount - you can see the hole at the back.



Then I trimmed the seat belt covers:



Stuck them back in, marked the bolsters and didn't quite take enough angle into account - both holes ended up being a tad biased outward so the fit left a small gap as seen in the pix below:





RSR wants an X cut into the carpet where the legs of the main hoop mount. They just tucked the ends up against the legs and I thought it looked a tad unfinished.

I went about it a bit differently (as usual...) and tried to make the fit "more better". My cut outs ended up being about 1/2" forward of where they needed to be but I was able to cheat it out and trim the pucks I pulled out and fit them into the gaps:





Here are the gaps at the rear cage where it goes into the bolsters:



Yes, that's a grinder slip. While cutting the clearance hole of course the cut off wheel caught and scraped the powder coating off of the bottom of the down bar. Crap happens.



At least my consistency at missing is the same - just a quarter inch.
If someone's going to take enough time to look in and state that I missed I'll just kick 'em in the shins and say "You go do it by yourself."



----

Yes, previous alignment was completely dorked. Looks like I need to go on a little solo breakfast run in the twisties and see how things feel now this morning.
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      01-17-2020, 11:45 AM   #70
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Super clean cage install. Bravo.
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      01-18-2020, 11:19 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by BeastieBombRacing View Post
Super clean cage install. Bravo.
Thank you, thank you very much. (in my best Elvis, of course!)
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      01-19-2020, 05:34 AM   #72
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Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
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      01-19-2020, 09:47 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
The former. Not ideal, but aside from that they build a nice cage.
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      01-20-2020, 03:07 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcgarnigle View Post
Does the main hoop drill into the floor with plates, or does it bolt to an existing location (like the seatbelt mounts).
As stated above.
Rear down bars bolt into the seat belt retractor mounts, using the OEM fasteners and the legs are held in with three nut/bolt/washer. You drill three holes in the floorboard for each leg - outer rear is not mounted.

There are three or four 8mm head screws on the bottom of the car and five or six push pin retaining clips along the bottom edge of the belly pan just at the rear of the door - pull them and then pull down on the belly panel (discovered some swearing seems to help at times) and you can get to the location of the nuts. It's a tight fit but doable.

They supply nice zinc coated Grade 8 hardware and large washers to spread the load over the floor. Only thing I'd change is going to a shorter bolt than they supply - about half an inch of thread is just sticking out and there for nothing more than threading over. As a rule, you only need 1.5 to 2 threads extending out of the nut.
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