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      02-04-2019, 02:52 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by specka View Post
That looks like a good solution, what's the product?
QuickJack but down here it will set you back $2500 Had been thinking about one but yesterday watching the Bathurst 12HR saw the Supercheap Auto sale & I've picked up a ToolPro low profile 3ton trolley jack & 4 stands for $260 (all half price), a saving worth the extra work.
Yeah they're super expensive and seem to be backordered as well.

It will be great if you can report back on how well the Toolpro works with our car, in terms of accessing front and rear centre lift points?
I really need a solution to take to track to change between road and track wheels.

Thanks
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      02-04-2019, 07:33 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specka View Post
Yeah they're super expensive and seem to be backordered as well.

It will be great if you can report back on how well the Toolpro works with our car, in terms of accessing front and rear centre lift points?
I really need a solution to take to track to change between road and track wheels.

Thanks
Just tried the Toolpro low profile, access to rear cross-member is easy, the jack has a built-in rubber pad which seemed to provide a secure & stable grip on the cross-member (contact point was roughly midway between middle & edge of the rubber pad).
Lifting the front (stock suspension), the back part of the jack catches on the underside of the bumper, I drove the car onto 30mm timber pieces which gave 10mm clearance at the lowest point where the bumper joins the undertray. Reaching the centre jack point was then easy and lifting quick with the dual-pump jack.
Jack weighs 45kg (if you're loading it into the boot).
If you get the jack, the half price deal is for the jack & bottle of Gulf Weston hydraulic oil (all up $185)

Last edited by David.m; 02-04-2019 at 07:40 PM..
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      02-04-2019, 07:39 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by specka View Post
Yeah they're super expensive and seem to be backordered as well.

It will be great if you can report back on how well the Toolpro works with our car, in terms of accessing front and rear centre lift points?
I really need a solution to take to track to change between road and track wheels.

Thanks
Just tried the Toolpro low profile, access to rear cross-member is easy, the jack has a built-in rubber pad which seemed to provide a secure & stable grip on the cross-member (contact point was roughly midway between middle & edge of the rubber pad).
Lifting the front (stock suspension), the back part of the jack catches on the underside of the bumper, I drove the car onto 30mm timber pieces which gave 10mm clearance at the lowest point where the bumper joins the undertray. Reaching the centre jack point was then easy and lifting quick with the dual-pump jack.
Jack weighs 45kg (if you're loading it into the boot).
Thanks mate, this is exactly what I needed to know.
I think this is going to be the solution for me.

I wonder how I'll go transporting 4 wheels, jack and stands to the track in my car
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      02-04-2019, 09:58 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specka View Post
Thanks mate, this is exactly what I needed to know.
I think this is going to be the solution for me.

I wonder how I'll go transporting 4 wheels, jack and stands to the track in my car
If you’re just changing wheels at the track I think you could leave the stands at home
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      02-05-2019, 05:41 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David.m View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by specka View Post
Thanks mate, this is exactly what I needed to know.
I think this is going to be the solution for me.

I wonder how I'll go transporting 4 wheels, jack and stands to the track in my car
If you’re just changing wheels at the track I think you could leave the stands at home
you make a good point
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      02-09-2019, 07:04 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
If you are talking about this one, yes.

After Pyrat 2 put this up and people cleared on how to lift the back I have used those points to lift with jack and then just place jack stands on the lift points in the corners.
Sorry if someone has already answered this, but what length jack is needed to reach the centre front lift point?

Cheers,

Karl
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      02-09-2019, 01:49 PM   #51
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Karl, it's not so much the length, as what you do with it. Just saying.

More seriously, the total height is going to be more important. And not just because being the Lock Forward will make you more popular than being the Scrum Half - you have to be able to get the jack under the car.

So, if you own a low jack with a big lift you're always going to get the job done...
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      02-09-2019, 04:23 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
If you are talking about this one, yes.

After Pyrat 2 put this up and people cleared on how to lift the back I have used those points to lift with jack and then just place jack stands on the lift points in the corners.
Sorry if someone has already answered this, but what length jack is needed to reach the centre front lift point?

Cheers,

Karl
For reference this is the one I use on my car:

https://m.harborfreight.com/3-ton-lo...ump-64264.html

Both the M2 and the M2C were lowered. Reaching the front center point was a painful process because on top of being lowered I had a carbon front lip.

Pretty sure if the car was stock height and had no lip you could reach the front center mid point no issues with a jack like mine.
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      02-09-2019, 04:38 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
If you are talking about this one, yes.

After Pyrat 2 put this up and people cleared on how to lift the back I have used those points to lift with jack and then just place jack stands on the lift points in the corners.
Sorry if someone has already answered this, but what length jack is needed to reach the centre front lift point?

Cheers,

Karl
For reference this is the one I use on my car:

https://m.harborfreight.com/3-ton-lo...ump-64264.html

Both the M2 and the M2C were lowered. Reaching the front center point was a painful process because on top of being lowered I had a carbon front lip.

Pretty sure if the car was stock height and had no lip you could reach the front center mid point no issues with a jack like mine.
Thanks Ban, I'll check out the link to see if that jack is available in the UK
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      02-09-2019, 04:40 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Thanks Ban, I'll check out the link to see if that jack is available in the UK
You are welcome! Might not be available but check something similar specs, as long as it's a low profile jack with similar length it should work!
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      02-10-2019, 12:59 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Thanks Ban, I'll check out the link to see if that jack is available in the UK
You are welcome! Might not be available but check something similar specs, as long as it's a low profile jack with similar length it should work!
Looking at the dimensions of that jack it gives me good information to go on in the UK market. I won't be lowering my car with coilovers any time soon and I don't think I'll add a splitter so hopefully I'll have no issues with whatever I go with.

One other question I wanted to ask: as the car is well under 2 tonnes are there any benefits of having a jack that can lift 3 tonnes over one that can only lift 2? I've found some highly rated 2 tonne jacks similar to the one you have listed.
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      02-10-2019, 04:12 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Looking at the dimensions of that jack it gives me good information to go on in the UK market. I won't be lowering my car with coilovers any time soon and I don't think I'll add a splitter so hopefully I'll have no issues with whatever I go with.

One other question I wanted to ask: as the car is well under 2 tonnes are there any benefits of having a jack that can lift 3 tonnes over one that can only lift 2? I've found some highly rated 2 tonne jacks similar to the one you have listed.
A 1.5 tonne jack will safely lift the car as you are never going to be trying to lift the full weight even using the centre lift points discussed here. Even then, that's the SWL, so it will lift a lot more but at the risk of damaging the jack.

It might be easier to lift with a higher rated jack, but that will depend on the design.

Hence, a 2 tonne jack will be fine.

HTH
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      02-10-2019, 05:07 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Fifty View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Karlosm2c View Post
Looking at the dimensions of that jack it gives me good information to go on in the UK market. I won't be lowering my car with coilovers any time soon and I don't think I'll add a splitter so hopefully I'll have no issues with whatever I go with.

One other question I wanted to ask: as the car is well under 2 tonnes are there any benefits of having a jack that can lift 3 tonnes over one that can only lift 2? I've found some highly rated 2 tonne jacks similar to the one you have listed.
A 1.5 tonne jack will safely lift the car as you are never going to be trying to lift the full weight even using the centre lift points discussed here. Even then, that's the SWL, so it will lift a lot more but at the risk of damaging the jack.

It might be easier to lift with a higher rated jack, but that will depend on the design.

Hence, a 2 tonne jack will be fine.

HTH
Thanks Fifty.

I have found this one, which I think I'll buy:

LiftMaster 2.5 Ton Aluminium and Steel Low Profile High Lift Floor Jack (Gold) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07G8NB4..._YoayCbXY3G886

It's the lightest low profile jack I could find at 29kg/64lb, with an entry point of 75mm. Reviews on this outside Amazon seem good it'll lift 2.5 ton.
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      02-10-2019, 04:45 PM   #58
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That won't reach the centre middle point, fyi.
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      02-11-2019, 10:29 AM   #59
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That won't reach the centre middle point, fyi.
Hi, why not?

I am looking at a different jack now:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...KL5A1OLE&psc=1
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      02-11-2019, 02:01 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BAN_M2C View Post
For reference this is the one I use on my car:

https://m.harborfreight.com/3-ton-lo...ump-64264.html

Both the M2 and the M2C were lowered. Reaching the front center point was a painful process because on top of being lowered I had a carbon front lip.

Pretty sure if the car was stock height and had no lip you could reach the front center mid point no issues with a jack like mine.
I have the same jack, and mine is stock height with no lip. Still need to drive them up some wood to get it underneath to reach.
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      01-16-2021, 04:49 PM   #61
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I've been using the rear subframe bar behind the diff to lift the back of the car without issues. However, it does need focus and care to ensure the jack does not slip or slide backwards during lifting. I've used a couple of layers of duct tape on the jack (without the pad so there is the metal lip exposed) to minimize chances of slip. Works well as Pyrat2 shows.

I wanted to share another method that is not as hair raising, though it's a touch more expensive as it requires buying a cross-beam adapter. Below are some pics of me using it for reference.

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMC5xu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMLNxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMgrxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]
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      01-17-2021, 03:46 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pal View Post
I've been using the rear subframe bar behind the diff to lift the back of the car without issues. However, it does need focus and care to ensure the jack does not slip or slide backwards during lifting. I've used a couple of layers of duct tape on the jack (without the pad so there is the metal lip exposed) to minimize chances of slip. Works well as Pyrat2 shows.

I wanted to share another method that is not as hair raising, though it's a touch more expensive as it requires buying a cross-beam adapter. Below are some pics of me using it for reference.

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMC5xu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMLNxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]https://media.fotki.com/2v2HrVMgrxu6LVA.jpg[/IMG]
That looks pretty neat! Did you use it in some way to get the fronts onto the stands? Or, did you swap the cross-beam on after they were raised?
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      01-17-2021, 09:56 AM   #63
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I raised the front using the center jacking point and the jack in it's usual state. Once the front was on stands, then I swapped the cross beam adapter over onto the jack for the rear. I like this as it works on my other cars as well.
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      03-04-2024, 10:22 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pal View Post
I raised the front using the center jacking point and the jack in it's usual state. Once the front was on stands, then I swapped the cross beam adapter over onto the jack for the rear. I like this as it works on my other cars as well.
Can you attach or pm the link for the stands , jack , and cross beam adapter? Thanks!
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      03-17-2024, 09:29 AM   #65
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I think this area in blue is actually the best rear jack point (either side). Center of the bar would work, if you have a jackpad saddle that will fit (most won't, and sliding off is no bueno). Using the lower control arms like in those spreader-photos is quite iffy - I know that older M cars are known to bend the control arms if you try this, or try using them to pull the car up on a flatbed.
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      03-17-2024, 05:39 PM   #66
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Maynard, I totally agree that the lower control arm stubs on the subframe on either side of the diff are the way to go. (The blue circle in your picture.) The left is probably the better choice as there is more clearance. There is a bit of twist jacking off center, but it's less than an inch at the rear jack points when you place jackstands.

There just isn't enough clearance between the middle of the subframe at the yellow arrow and the back of the diff to safely lift there. Especially if you are using any sort of rubber jack pad to protect the finish.

I found this video which I think does an excellent job of how to jack the car up. It's an M3, but it has the same subframes. This is the same process that I've been using.

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