[ZM2]

Quick pic from while my car is at my shop today…

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ZM2

Quick pic from while my car is at my shop today…

Looks excellent, no bellying either.

Btw tell your shop to use brake cleaner or degreaser on the surface of the crank hub and the back of the damper.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

Now we are getting somewhere. So remind why you thought the statement that:
"I just talked to malo industries and he informed me that stainless steel is inert so it should be safe to use on aluminium and magnesium blocks. So that concern should be fine." was accurate?

malo industries sourced some aluminium bolts if that makes you feel better about this product.

https://maloindustries.com/products/...41707555192991

It is an optional add on, but really make sure you are careful when torquing these down.

[M Fifty]

Originally Posted by F87source

malo industries sourced some aluminium bolts if that makes you feel better about this product.

https://maloindustries.com/products/...41707555192991

It is an optional add on, but really make sure you are careful when torquing these down.

I think you already responded to my post - last May?

[F87source]

Originally Posted by M Fifty

I think you already responded to my post - last May?

Just adding new developments

Also one more thing, if you look at electronics you'll see major mixes between metals. For eg the copper pads on mother boards where screws (steel, stainless, brass etc) would mount, or the aluminium unibody on laptops and the stainless steel screws going right into them. You can see galvanic corrosion isn't even a remote thought or consideration in those regards and it's not even an issue 10+ years down the road, this is because these laptops are designed knowing electrolytes will not be introduced between these two different metals as laptops won't ever be submerged in water.

So on a car, if you use two unfavorable metals like stainless steel and aluminum and they're not exposed to electrolytes you'll be fine. So the male threads of the bolt and female threads of the block should be fine, the external mating surface of the head of the bolt and the crank seal guard should technically be fine because salt water shouldn't even be able to reach this location - if it does you'll have major issues elsewhere (deterioration of the belts if it doesn't completely slip right off, and deterioration of seals). But if you want you could change the washer out to a copper washer to act as a buffer (copper sits between aluminum and stainless on the galvanic table) between the two dissimilar metals kind of like what the oil drain plug washer does for the drain plug and oil pan, this new washer could be copper or it could be an additional thin plastic or rubber washer.


But also note the manual transmission is aluminum and the drain and fill plugs are stainless steel, and for some reason galvanic corrosion isn't a concern on that. Maybe it's so well protected from the elements it's not an issue?

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by F87source

Reserved space for personal install photos and final thoughts:

This space will be reserved for my own installation photos, this will be coming soon.

(I may have missed it, so apologies in advance if I did.) Did you post photos of your install and final thoughts? Would love to know how it all ended up, especially if you installed from the bottom (seems like most videos and DIY procedures illustrate the top-down method).

[F87source]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

(I may have missed it, so apologies in advance if I did.) Did you post photos of your install and final thoughts? Would love to know how it all ended up, especially if you installed from the bottom (seems like most videos and DIY procedures illustrate the top-down method).

Oh sorry, I forgot to update these.

I didn't post photos (I will do so shortly) mainly because I couldn't remove my harmonic balancer because the radiator fan sits too close (doesn't affect install). Hence all my images were pretty bad. So the other images posted here are much better than mine, so I didn't post any.

Anyways my final thoughts are the Malo industries crank seal plate fits perfectly, even without the fitment ring that the kies plate has, this thing located itself perfect on the block and was able to hold itself there quite steadily. This is because the tabs are machined to fit the flat edge of the block so we'll it kind of hooks on. Once the screws were torqued down the plate was pretty much sitting perfectly, I measured tolerance with a sheet of paper and there was about the same amount of space all the way around the hub, so zero touching. It fit perfectly and wasnt even a hassle to install, so anyone saying that the alignment ring is required and install is impossible/difficult without it is wrong.

I installed it from the bottom and top at the same time. top to remove the balancer, and bottom to torque the bolts.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

(I may have missed it, so apologies in advance if I did.) Did you post photos of your install and final thoughts? Would love to know how it all ended up, especially if you installed from the bottom (seems like most videos and DIY procedures illustrate the top-down method).

Ok I updated post #2

[jefe2000]

Originally Posted by F87source

Ok I updated post #2

Thanks! I appreciate the specifics about performing the work on the M2. DIY procedures for installing the crank seal guard on the F22 make it look dead simple, so I appreciate the caution about the extra difficulties of maneuvering around the tighter F87 engine bay.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by jefe2000

Thanks! I appreciate the specifics about performing the work on the M2. DIY procedures for installing the crank seal guard on the F22 make it look dead simple, so I appreciate the caution about the extra difficulties of maneuvering around the tighter F87 engine bay.

Yeah I saw some F22 diy's and they were able to yank out the vibration dampener with ease. Then on the m2 I and a few others were unable to do so. I think this is because the m2 uses the m4's sub frame, and this makes things a bit tighter.

[TheHunterHofman]

With the help of the post of F87source, I went for the install and made a video about it.

Here it is:

Hope this helps some of you and will be happy to answer any questions.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by HunterHofman

With the help of the post of F87source, I went for the install and made a video about it.

Here it is:

Hope this helps some of you and will be happy to answer any questions.

Great video like always man!