[mwh2009]

So I've done a couple of "Track day lite" events (essentially paced laps around a track, and one full fledged track day (ran in the novice group) at a Virginia track called dominion raceway.

Each time I've experienced at the end of the main straight (braking down from 100mph on the paced laps or from ~125 on the full trackday laps) a smell of hot (not burning?) brakes. Pedal feel and stopping power has been fine.

My M2C is stock - I bought it new and never have had any brake work done. About 10k miles of pretty easy driving on it. 763M wheels if that matters.

Is it normal for my brakes to get so hot I can smell them on even a relaxed track setting? I'm assuming that either something is wrong like I'm dragging a pad or that this is normal? Also assuming that new fluid/OEM pads won't fix this?

Any help is appreciated.

[swampfox94]

I went to my first track day recently with the m2c. Yea the brake smell was pretty strong but pedal feel was strong the whole time so no issues for me. My fluid was swapped the same week as the track weekend

[K-Fab]

The hot smell is normal even at fairly easy tracking..

Have the brake fluid replaced - I prefer Motul 600RBF.

If you decide that you've become a track junkie, replace the stock pads with something like a Pagid Yellow compound. They have more initial bite and better modulation than the stockers. They can handle the heat better too.

Put the OEM back in for the street.

[mwh2009]

Originally Posted by K-Fab

The hot smell is normal even at fairly easy tracking..

Have the brake fluid replaced - I prefer Motul 600RBF.

If you decide that you've become a track junkie, replace the stock pads with something like a Pagid Yellow compound. They have more initial bite and better modulation than the stockers. They can handle the heat better too.

Put the OEM back in for the street.

Thanks - definitely doing the fluid change for sure. How difficult is it to swap pads? If I can only get one corner in the air at a time with my jack, is it 10 mins per corner or an hour or?

When I remove a caliper do I need to replace any stretch bolts or can I reuse the mounting hardware?

[bkd705]

Swap brake fluid ASAP, necessary for track if you want to be safe as you go faster.

Smelling brakes is fine, but likely a sign you should do a cooldown lap or two or take a break. The stock pads honestly handle the track pretty well, but they're prone to leaving uneven deposits that will later squeal and give you pedal judder which feels sketchy on track and annoying on the drive home.

Originally Posted by mwh2009

Thanks - definitely doing the fluid change for sure. How difficult is it to swap pads? If I can only get one corner in the air at a time with my jack, is it 10 mins per corner or an hour or?

When I remove a caliper do I need to replace any stretch bolts or can I reuse the mounting hardware?

Can re-use all the bolts.

Swapping pads on the Comp fronts is a bit annoying since you have to pull the caliper off, but it shouldn't take much more than like 15-20 per side, maybe faster as you get more comfortable with it. Rears are quicker since they're the brembo style where you just pop the pins out with a punch.

[MooMooM2]

fronts on the comp are annoying to change, I have not done it yet but check out Farkles video. It does not seem hard just annoying.

As far as bolts BMW does recommend replacing some of the bolts but is it necessary? some say no some say yes. I am going to put new pads in soon, just killing the stock pads (they are still fine for my track skill levels) and then will go to a track pad but since I don't drive this all that much I will probably put track pads at beginning of season and leave em there till the end and then go back to street pads for winter.

[mwh2009]

Originally Posted by MooMooM2

fronts on the comp are annoying to change, I have not done it yet but check out Farkles video. It does not seem hard just annoying.

As far as bolts BMW does recommend replacing some of the bolts but is it necessary? some say no some say yes. I am going to put new pads in soon, just killing the stock pads (they are still fine for my track skill levels) and then will go to a track pad but since I don't drive this all that much I will probably put track pads at beginning of season and leave em there till the end and then go back to street pads for winter.

This is pretty much where I landed. Going to do SRF fluid and SS lines now, and use up the stock pads while I search for either a street/HPDE appropriate pad, or work up the courage to start the whole swapping pads thing.

Gotta decide how serious I am about track days

[M1500Z]

Originally Posted by mwh2009

This is pretty much where I landed. Going to do SRF fluid and SS lines now, and use up the stock pads while I search for either a street/HPDE appropriate pad, or work up the courage to start the whole swapping pads thing.

Gotta decide how serious I am about track days

First, save your money on the stainless lines. That money would either be better put toward a better pad or in your pocket.

Second, even a basic track day is likely to put more energy into the brakes than paced or lead-follow laps. Is it enough to cause issues with the stock pads? Hard to say, but better to be over-braked than under. There's some great advice in this thread if you haven't had a chance to read it.

Third, pad recommendations. While not my favorite pad, Pagid RSL29s are a pretty decent entry into track pads. They're easy to drive and last a while without being too harsh. They are expensive though.

[Maynard]

Ferodo 2500 pads work very well for early track work, and on the street (don't need to swap them after each track day). I've gotten advice that some of the track pads will bite too hard initially, which can trigger overly aggressive ABS intervention - apparently the 2500's are a favorite even with experienced drivers (got this from somebody w/ IMSA experience, so they can definitely push the limits of the car).

I am replacing my bolts at each front pad swap to be on the safe side (with free replacements from fcp euro it seemed better safe than sorry). You can do free replacement Ferodo's via fcpeuro as well - more expensive than other sources but with free replacement they pay off at the first changeover.

[keylime503]

If you’re doing fluid then you might as well do pads while you’re at it. Rear pad change is very easy on this car once you have the wheels off, 5 mins tops. Fronts are a little more difficult because you have to remove the heavy caliper, but it’s still pretty straightforward. I reused the mounting bolts, some people replace.

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative to DS2500s, I went with EBC blues. They held up great today at Laguna Seca. The DS2000 front pads for our giant front calipers are outrageously expensive.

[mwh2009]

Originally Posted by keylime503

If you’re doing fluid then you might as well do pads while you’re at it. Rear pad change is very easy on this car once you have the wheels off, 5 mins tops. Fronts are a little more difficult because you have to remove the heavy caliper, but it’s still pretty straightforward. I reused the mountain bolts, some people replace.

If you’re looking for a cheaper alternative to DS2500s, I went with EBC blues. They held up great today at Laguna Seca. The DS2000 front pads for our giant front calipers are outrageously expensive.

How was squeal and dusting with the EBC Blues?

[keylime503]

Originally Posted by mwh2009

How was squeal and dusting with the EBC Blues?

Zero squeal on the road and for the first session. Once the brakes got hot they squealed quite a bit on the track but were perfectly quiet on the drive home.

Decent amount of dark dust on my wheels. Reminds me to go wash them...