[F87source]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

The sch is def due to increase power. I wasn't driving my car any different. Manual or dct it doesn't matter

Bolt could have been vibrated loose gradually over time, so it just happened to loosen up now. If this was the case it doesn't matter how much power it made, it could occur stock or modded.

[omasou]

Originally Posted by Thescout13

They cannot legally charge you a surcharge for using a credit card. Especially not in California.

True , but they can give you a discount for cash, which is how they get around it.

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by omasou

True , but they can give you a discount for cash, which is how they get around it.

Man if only you read the 4 or five posts after my post you wouldn't have had to restart this conversation again...

[ChrisK]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

The OP has a manual. And the poll survey on the M3/4 forums of cars that have had a SCH shows that tuned cars have dramatically increased chances of SCH.
There are more cars with DCTs than manuals out there and I think that's why it looks like DCT is a factor. I would say the increased power is a higher factor than transmission type...along with a flawed design by BMW.

I think everyone just missed this. I said "stock"

Of course you increase your chance of a SCH with a tune regardless of transmission.

[Bimmer28312]

Ok so I've decided to take it to Vargas turbo's instead of performance technic. Vargas supplies the part so it makes sense to have them do the labor as well all for $3500 bucks. Now.. this is all not knowing the extent of my problem. Did it just slip or cause physical damage to the engine? I'm hoping because the car starts and was drivable it's the latter. I'll keep you guys posted later on today.

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Ok so I've decided to take it to Vargas turbo's instead of performance technic. Vargas supplies the part so it makes sense to have them do the labor as well all for $3500 bucks. Now.. this is all not knowing the extent of my problem. Did it just slip or cause physical damage to the engine? I'm hoping because the car starts and was drivable it's the latter. I'll keep you guys posted later on today.

Which part are you having installed? The Crank Bolt Capture? Or the actual fix?

[Bimmer28312]

Well just spoke to the shop and they're not gonna get to my car until next week! Pretty fucking annoying considering that's a pretty important detail to share. Exactly why I just wanted to go to performance technic!!

[CoffeeLife]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Well just spoke to the shop and they're not gonna get to my car until next week! Pretty fucking annoying considering that's a pretty important detail to share. Exactly why I just wanted to go to performance technic!!

Ah man.... that's super frustrating and not cool they didn't let you know prior to taking it to them.

[Bimmer28312]

In their defense I never asked what their schedule was like or timeframe. I'm just highly frustrated at this point.

[Bimmer28312]

Well some good news as I'm msg back and forth with the shop. Was told that if the car starts and is driveable that I dodged a bullet and would more than likely just replace the hub and time it back. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

[Bimmer28312]

Wow, ok just got done speaking to Tony at Vargas turbo's and after inspection, codes read I not only spun the crank hub but on the verge of severe engine damage.
To put it in his words
"We did not see any more damage, but you got REALLY REALLY lucky the timing was 2-3 teeth off which is a LOT.
No engine damage from what we can tell. Count your lucky stars."

[Thescout13]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

Wow, ok just got done speaking to Tony at Vargas turbo's and after inspection, codes read I not only spun the crank hub but on the verge of severe engine damage.
To put it in his words
"We did not see any more damage, but you got REALLY REALLY lucky the timing was 2-3 teeth off which is a LOT.
No engine damage from what we can tell. Count your lucky stars."

Yeah, the fact that you continued driving after the error likely didn't help - that seems to be the disaster point for some people. Luckily it sounds like it's relatively cheap to salvage the issue, and am happy you avoided severe engine damage.

[M-Pilot]

Originally Posted by Thescout13

Yeah, the fact that you continued driving after the error likely didn't help - that seems to be the disaster point for some people. Luckily it sounds like it's relatively cheap to salvage the issue, and am happy you avoided severe engine damage.

This is exactly why I recommended him a few posts ago not to even let the car idle, let alone driving couple miles to a nearby shop. Just because the car still runs and is drivable after those DME error codes doesn't mean it's ok to run it.

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by M-Pilot

This is exactly why I recommended him a few posts ago not to even let the car idle, let alone driving couple miles to a nearby shop. Just because the car still runs and is drivable after those DME error codes doesn't mean it's ok to run it.

And after I pulled the codes I didn't turn the car on at all. It was towed right from my garage and thankful I did because yes I could of easily damaged more than just the crank hub. Looking forward to getting her back but this just leaves me unsure if I should follow through with a custom e85 tune I was planning to do.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

And after I pulled the codes I didn't turn the car on at all. It was towed right from my garage and thankful I did because yes I could of easily damaged more than just the crank hub. Looking forward to getting her back but this just leaves me unsure if I should follow through with a custom e85 tune I was planning to do.

I would just get the bolt capture. I think that's cheaper and seems to be effective.

[armiii]

Originally Posted by akkando

I would just get the bolt capture. I think that's cheaper and seems to be effective.

if you had a bolt capture while being sch, that could the damage to the engine be greater?

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by Bimmer28312

And after I pulled the codes I didn't turn the car on at all. It was towed right from my garage and thankful I did because yes I could of easily damaged more than just the crank hub. Looking forward to getting her back but this just leaves me unsure if I should follow through with a custom e85 tune I was planning to do.

Are you getting the fix or the bolt capture?
The general consensus is that the fix is basically 100% effective at preventing SCH again in the future while the bolt capture is “highly unlikely” but not impossible to not spin again.

Whichever solution you get, you can also just do stage 2 (tune + downpipes) and pump gas for a while and go from there.

[robertm]

What's the cost spread between CBC and full up hub fix? At this point I would go full monty and be done with it. Then you are free to do whatever you want at any point in the future and never worry about it again.

[Bimmer28312]

Originally Posted by robertm

What's the cost spread between CBC and full up hub fix? At this point I would go full monty and be done with it. Then you are free to do whatever you want at any point in the future and never worry about it again.

Think it'll run you the same amount anywhere from $3-4k. To get it done at Vargas turbo's it's running me $3500 including their crank hub fix.

[Poochie]

Originally Posted by akkando

I would just get the bolt capture. I think that's cheaper and seems to be effective.

From what I understand, the bolt capture doesn't prevent the sprockets from over-spinning, it merely keeps the bolt in place, if it does spin out, potentially reducing more engine damage.

Bolt/plate capture is band-aid solution, not a true fix. A solid, single piece crank hub is the only permanent remedy, as far as I see.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Poochie

From what I understand, the bolt capture doesn't prevent the sprockets from over-spinning, it merely keeps the bolt in place, if it does spin out, potentially reducing more engine damage.

Bolt/plate capture is band-aid solution, not a true fix. A solid, single piece crank hub is the only permanent remedy, as far as I see.

+1

Correct.

The CBC prevents the bolt from vibrating loose which will cause severe engine damage as that means the whole hub will slip. However just because the bolt cannot back out doesn't mean friction of the grip disk cannot be broken leading to a slip, thus the CBC itself is not a full solution you also need a one piece crank hub meaning the timing gear is affixed the hub. The hub also needs to be either pinned to the crank which requires drilling of the crank, or somehow secured aka splined to the crank like the VTT spline lock crank hub.


Also note the one piece crank hub itself is not a fix alone either because the bolt can still come loose via vibrations, so you will still need a CBC.

[akkando]

Originally Posted by F87source

+1

Correct.

The CBC prevents the bolt from vibrating loose which will cause severe engine damage as that means the whole hub will slip. However just because the bolt cannot back out doesn't mean friction of the grip disk cannot be broken leading to a slip, thus the CBC itself is not a full solution you also need a one piece crank hub meaning the timing gear is affixed the hub. The hub also needs to be either pinned to the crank which requires drilling of the crank, or somehow secured aka splined to the crank like the VTT spline lock crank hub.


Also note the one piece crank hub itself is not a fix alone either because the bolt can still come loose via vibrations, so you will still need a CBC.

As far as I can tell from reading the forum the bolt capture has been effective at reducing or eliminating spun crank hub failures. It may not stop 100 percent of sch, but it seems to prevent the majority of them because people are not getting sch with bolt capture solution so far.

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1588786