03-23-2019, 09:51 PM | #23 | |
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03-23-2019, 11:04 PM | #24 |
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Good to know and thanks! Was worried I might get some rubbing but so far so good even fully loaded. Love the way it turned out and can't believe I didn't do this sooner.
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03-24-2019, 09:09 AM | #25 |
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Great write up and the car looks stunning. I can't wait till spring and order mine and put it on.
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03-24-2019, 01:22 PM | #26 | |
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03-24-2019, 07:16 PM | #27 |
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Incredible write up and information! For all the screws and bolts - are most included in the kit that's recommended with the MP coilovers? I think getbmwparts has it for $75 or so.
Thanks!
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03-25-2019, 02:08 PM | #29 |
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If taking that route, at a minimum I would say replace the the rear shock-camber arm bolt/nut and the pinch bolt for the front strut mount. I'm fine re-indexing for peace of mind and because of how (relatively) inexpensive it is.
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03-25-2019, 02:28 PM | #30 |
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Oh, the set of bolts/nuts that BMW say you need covers those. But it also includes the nut that holds the front strut to the top mounts though - even though the MPS comes with that.
Your list is good. |
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03-25-2019, 05:31 PM | #31 |
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Just to be clear are you referencing my post? I attached the option of the required hardware that goes along with the MPS.
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03-25-2019, 06:16 PM | #32 | |
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Basically only fasteners that require a torque setting plus - say - a quarter turn are torque to yield. The rest are locknuts - without the nyloc. HTH |
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03-25-2019, 06:17 PM | #33 |
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I would still - strongly suggest - using new nuts and bolts on anything you undo, it's just that you don't have to undo quite as much as the fastener kit suggests.
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03-25-2019, 08:40 PM | #34 | |
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03-28-2019, 07:26 PM | #35 |
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Just realized I do have a picture of mine lowered. Quick pic taken the day I picked it up. I think it's a bit high. I gave him the Dinan recommended heights to set it to.
Original plan was to lower it as much as it can without rubbing on 265/35 and 285/35 sottozero winter tires (cause I think they are slightly bigger than the 265 285 Pilot 4S that I run in summer) but I didn't get a chance to put them on this winter before the suspension upgrades. So before next winter I'm gonna lower it more. Besides, after all I've been through the last 8 months, I just want time to enjoy my car for a bit. |
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03-29-2019, 01:49 PM | #36 | |
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Fettled M135i EB AT then AW M2 DCT - both gone but not forgotten:
Current '22 X3M LCI.. |
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03-29-2019, 03:15 PM | #37 |
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That pic is with 255/275 Conti 5P's with 5mm spacers. I don't plan on using spacers when I swap to 265/285, but I'm not against putting them on if I think it needs it. We'll see in the future.
Here's a better pic of how it is for now. |
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04-05-2019, 03:18 PM | #39 |
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Well, from personal experience, once you've got the nut snug using an Allen Key on the strut shaft and a pass-through socket, it's then possible to just use a Torque Wrench on the nut.
Putting the torque wrench on the Allen Key also works, but be careful. HTH Edit: The KW/MPS uses a 10mm hex on the front strut shaft as the adjuster runs down the middle. Also, when I say 'use a Torque Wrench on the nut' I mean use a Torque Wrench on the pass through socket. Otherwise, as before. Last edited by M Fifty; 04-06-2019 at 03:31 AM.. Reason: I really should pay attention... |
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04-06-2019, 12:28 AM | #40 | |
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For the 16mm one, I have the cheap Harbor Freight pass through kit. To torque it I put a 19mm crows foot on my torque wrench and grab the hex base of the pass through with it to torque it. This lets me still use the allen or torx hold down in the middle. |
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04-06-2019, 10:31 AM | #41 |
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I have Schwaben strut sockets and I must be one of the few people who doesn't care for them but I guess I have no choice. Crow's foot is a good idea... but there will be some math involved to determine the proper torque setting since you're offsetting the wrench.
Found this. |
04-06-2019, 03:43 PM | #42 | |
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04-06-2019, 11:38 PM | #43 | |
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04-07-2019, 11:45 AM | #44 |
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